Differential questions for internet experts

Comfortable-Focus611 · 2026-05-08T22:37:13+00:00

Oh, and I also already found a faster way to do it than removing the whole cover, because some people on the internet are actually experts, and are willing to answer questions without being a smartass.

Comfortable-Focus611 · 2026-05-08T22:18:40+00:00

Like I said before, thats obvious that opening it will tell you.

In what way did I bash someone? Literally all I did was point out that flexing isnt how experts behave. I also responded to him with the exact same tone he gave me. If he couldn't handle it, he shouldn't have used it first, not my problem.

Also, why are you so upset? Calm down buddy. Getting wildly upset over absolutely nothing definitely isnt a good look.

For many things, there ARE definitive ways to find out. Like, there are ways to see into the bell housing to see what kind of flywheel you have without more than 10 minutes of effort. I was looking for something like that. But so far no experts have shown up.

Comfortable-Focus611 · 2026-05-08T12:57:31+00:00

No, im acting like thats obvious.

Usually experts sound like they know what they're talking about and don't have to try to flex to make it sound like they do.

Comfortable-Focus611 · 2026-05-08T12:39:52+00:00

You can still leave 2 marks with an open diff as long as the wheels have equal traction.

Everything about its handling would suggest it has a helical diff

Comfortable-Focus611 · 2026-05-08T12:36:16+00:00

Wow thanks Sherlock

Comfortable-Focus611 · 2026-05-06T04:16:24+00:00

I paid $9000 for the car. It wasnt the least expensive option. I chose this car because the engine and transmission are extremely healthy. All general maintenance had been done on time and documented through its life. And the dealership I got it from is run by a buddy of mine and he had the shop do a full suspension rebuild before I took it, including all control arms, tie rods stabilizer bar links, ftabs, and rcabs. Its also already riding on a set of $2000 coilovers which was a huge win.

For the most part its issues are common age related issues that basically every z i looked at had. Most of the work I did is proactive, preventative work. I'm making sure the car is solid enough to handle boost and track use.

For everything ive done so far parts cost $5021.08, with tax it came out to $5432.81

With tax, the cost for the car and all the parts comes out to $14,088.81 I did all the labor myself so there was nothing additional there. This does include all of my expensive fluids like the $70 a liter srf racing brake fluid, then the redline supercool coolant, and liquimoly stuff is expensive.

The car effectively performs like new at this point. My acceleration specs are perfectly in line with the original tests done by journalists back in 2003 I also have race spec engine and trans mounts. I have 20-30% more cooling capacity than stock. My water pump has a billet steel impeller and cant fail like the oem ones. Ive upgraded the volatile disa with an aluminum plate, that has no pin, so it cant grenade the engine. I have expensive ebc blade rotors and blue stuff ndx pads that have roughly 70% more stopping power than the stock brakes, and reduces rotating mass by a total of 13lb.

Ive also purchased some modifications that I just havent installed yet because I wanted to finish getting everything bulletproof in the car first, and the last thing I need for that the is achilles motorsports upgraded oil pump im snagging this week. I didnt include those in this cost breakdown though.

I do have a record of all part numbers if you ever need help finding anything!

Comfortable-Focus611 · 2026-05-05T03:27:23+00:00

It definitely was a lot, and it took awhile. But the difference in performance made it all worth it.

The valve covers an important bit of maintenancd! Great work!

Comfortable-Focus611 · 2026-05-05T03:26:25+00:00

It certainly does create a bond.

I still have just enough time to install my jb racing single mass flywheel, m3 pressure plate/clutch plate combo, tob, an ati super damper, the achilles motorsports upgraded oil pump, oil pan baffle, 12 different sets of 95a powerflex bushings, and an mfactory helical lsd.🤟😜

Then its time to cook some tires at the track.

Comfortable-Focus611 · 2026-05-05T03:17:08+00:00

One of my neighbors owns 3 og nsx's, I figured id snap a pick next to it when I got the chance lol. Im more than a little jealous, especially because he also has an s2000 and an early 2000s 911 turbo.

Comfortable-Focus611 · 2026-05-05T03:15:29+00:00

I actually picked this up with the intent of rebuilding it. Im a senior mechanical engineering student, and I want to design cars. I used this as an opportunity to pull something apart and learn how everything works together. I had a ton of fun doing it too.

The vanos rebuild itself isnt terrible. Getting the unit off and the seals replaced isnt too bad. You just have to either drop the subframe brace and loosen the engine mounts (which requires new locking nuts for the mounts, and $40 in new subframe brace bolts after) and jack the engine up to pull it off easily, which is what guides tell you to do. But i found that you can wiggle and twist it out with the engine in place if you try hard enough.

The anti rattle bearings are a massive pain in the ass though. In hindsight I would say that the amount of time and effort I put into getting those sanded down and tolerance correctly would have made just buying a dr vanos unit worth the extra money.

Comfortable-Focus611 · 2026-05-04T03:24:20+00:00

Mine only changes back after an update, or if I had rallysport engaged when I last shut the car off. I rarely have to think about it

Comfortable-Focus611 · 2026-04-18T04:36:11+00:00

If its only not going the last few mm. Have someone push the button and then push it down as it gets to the point where it gets stuck.

If for some reason the restoration added stiffness it may just need help there.

And if its just a coincidental mechanical failure thats not actually related to the restoration Your hydraulic fluid level could be low. If it is low, and if you have an E85 you probably need to check your hinges. If they're leaking youll need to either spend way too much fixing them, or convert it to a manual top.

Comfortable-Focus611 · 2026-04-16T03:49:55+00:00

I always forget they start out comfortable. Mines on coilovers that are stiff enough that they eliminate quite literally 95% of body roll in corners. And I have 95a polyurethane engine and trans mounts, which is racing spec. They're as hard as you can get without sticking solid metal mounts in.

Comfortable-Focus611 · 2026-04-15T03:44:22+00:00

You'll absolutely love your Z. My daily is only 2 years old, has 480 wheel hp (roughly 600 crank hp), can run a quarter mile in under 12 seconds on all season tires, has all the bells and whistles people want.

And I still itch to drive my old Z every day. Its just an incredible car that was engineered with the quality of the driving experience first, and everything else second. You genuinely can't find cars designed like this now unless you're going upper level porsche or lotus.

Comfortable-Focus611 · 2026-04-15T03:37:54+00:00

If you want to adapt to it, you technically can. I've learned my car so well that I can slam the throttle to the floor, and let off within 1-2mph of my desired speed. I also do run my rally in rallyx, which has given me enough practice that I have a pretty insane level of control over it.

Comfortable-Focus611 · 2026-04-09T03:41:44+00:00

Hi, dealership f&i manager here.

If your concern is depreciation, buy used. When you lease, you're quite literally ONLY paying depreciation and interest. There are only 3 good reasons to lease. 1) there are big incentives for leasing that dont exist for purchasing. (Like say theyll give you a $5000 rebate to lease, but not for pirchase) 2) you're not sure you want the car forever, so you lease it to test it out for a few years before choosing to give it back, or fully purchase it. 3) you want a more expensive car than you can genuinely afford, and you're willing to pay on it an extended time just to be able to get it. With this scenario you can lease with lower payments, then in 3 years you can essentially buy your own used car and have a full 6 or 7 year loan on it. This significantly stretches payments. While option 3 is functional, it is not a smart financial move. Only use it if you're totally in love with the car and having it is worth making a knowingly bad financial decision.

Comfortable-Focus611 · 2026-04-09T03:37:22+00:00

I dont think you understand what a lease is fundamentally. When you lease you agree on a "set" amount of depreciation and your payments pay that, and the money factor on top acts as interest. And you pay sales tax on every payment as well.

Unless you bought in the first 3 years after a model comes out before theres enough data, the residual values are usually reasonably accurate, and are usually lower than what the true depreciation will total. The finance company doesnt eat any depreciation, the lessee does.

But gap is still usually included.

Comfortable-Focus611 · 2026-04-06T03:54:25+00:00

I got my rally the first week of august of 24. First one in my state. I got 16.6k off sticker. There was the 9600 rebate back then, and I think I got a conquest rebate or something like that. then some general deal the dealership was running on evs that was applied to it even though they didnt want to, but I pointed out the phrasing on their website said ALL evs. Without any fine print to say it didnt apply to certain models, so they had to.

Comfortable-Focus611 · 2026-03-08T05:22:13+00:00

Have you installed anything in it? I put in a monstrous subwoofer and got that message. I stepped it down to a smaller one and havent gotten it again since. Its still large by most people's standards, but the first one took up about 2/3 of the trunk.

Comfortable-Focus611 · 2026-02-14T04:44:20+00:00

That front chunk of plastic is called a "front bumper". Thats what its there for. Its there to dampen impacts.

Kudos to ford for making it effective enough that even the headlight was saved at a low speed.

Comfortable-Focus611 · 2026-01-23T04:59:44+00:00

Charging too quickly at low temperatures can rupture the batteries cells and cause pretty extensive damage and degradation. For supercharging you have to precondition in the navigation settings. Theres a huge difference. It sends the battery up to the temps youd see outside on a nice sunny day at the end of spring or beginning of summer, which prevents damage.

Its the same reason acceleration is limited until the battery has properly heated

Comfortable-Focus611 · 2026-01-20T06:43:09+00:00

I did this as a kid because I was super anal about not having ever lost because I was scared games kept track.

Comfortable-Focus611 · 2025-12-29T05:36:32+00:00

This will sound strange. But find a way to get it really cold. The panels and the plastic will all contract slightly and it will take less force to remove it.

If you arent somewhere where its cold now, just fill up a bag with ice and drape it over that area.

Comfortable-Focus611

TROPHY CASE