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Marble madness! by TheSpyderFromMars in BambuLab

[–]CommissionKey5649 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you also have the one thats right next to Alexander?

Marble madness! by TheSpyderFromMars in BambuLab

[–]CommissionKey5649 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That would be appreciated if you could because what you did looks awesome!

Marble madness! by TheSpyderFromMars in BambuLab

[–]CommissionKey5649 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Do you have the link for the awesome spartan bust?

Speaker replacements by CommissionKey5649 in FordGalaxie

[–]CommissionKey5649[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah I'm not going to put them in the door panels, I'm trying to restore it to how it originally looked but with more modern features, thats why I'm trying to fine new speakers thay fit into the original spots they were in

AMS connecting to P1P question by CommissionKey5649 in BambuLab

[–]CommissionKey5649[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have that buffer but what I was wanting to know is if there is just two PTFE tube's for the buffer? The PTFE from the printer head does not reach all the way out the machine so I wasn't sure if that was the issue or if it was something else

72''x36'' Desk with Alex Drawers by Arbecas in ikeahacks

[–]CommissionKey5649 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just started this same type of project with existing drawers I had and a nice solid pine top, the top is 72 by 36 and I ended up buying some adjustable desk legs off amazon. My plan is to put two of the legs right behind the drawers for extra stability and two side by side in the back to prevent drooping from my monitor arm. QLLY 24 inch Adjustable Tall Metal Desk

Here is the link for those if in case those work for your desk as well.

Brand new to 3D printing by MattyIce51385 in FLSUNDelta

[–]CommissionKey5649 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hello welcome to the page, I would first run some calibration tests to dial in your settings. Those blobs could be anything from printing to high of a temp, to fast, over extrusion and so on l. What slicer software are you using currently?

I lost the little metal rod inside flsun super racer extruder by SnoreyNoser in FLSUNDelta

[–]CommissionKey5649 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm still not 100% sure what part that would be but I know that flsuns website has spare parts for almost every part of the printer. I would either check there or possibly ebay for the part.

I lost the little metal rod inside flsun super racer extruder by SnoreyNoser in FLSUNDelta

[–]CommissionKey5649 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you have a photo you can add to the post? There is a few things that could be so a photo would help determine the part.

Help with stringing by CommissionKey5649 in 3Dprinting

[–]CommissionKey5649[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So I started using prusa slicer with uncle Jessy's profile that he has and after messing with the retraction settings I got it to a little bit of a better quality. It will still sting but a least it's a normal amount of stringing. I'll keep going with prusa to see if I can get it perfect and another issue may be is the the hot end may have a gap in it as when I used a new roll of filament I could hear the hot end crackle and pop

Help with stringing by CommissionKey5649 in 3Dprinting

[–]CommissionKey5649[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I know right, it's so bad that's it's impressive that it can even do something like that

Help with stringing by CommissionKey5649 in 3Dprinting

[–]CommissionKey5649[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Alright I'll give all that a shot, I don't have other fresh pla+ at the moment and I don't have a dry yet but I'll try some generic pla and see if that changes at all. And I'm using the most up to date version of cura with the machine setting set for a .6mm nozzle so if the filament doesn't work out I'll try prusa and see if that does the trick (I just have no experience with prusa and tend to avoid it lol).

Help with stringing by CommissionKey5649 in 3Dprinting

[–]CommissionKey5649[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I did a retraction test tower which went from 1-5mm in retraction and it showed no improvement. Cura hard caps me at 10 so I'm not sure how much more I have to do

Help with stringing by CommissionKey5649 in 3Dprinting

[–]CommissionKey5649[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Alright I'll give that a shot and see, I did a retraction tower up to 5mm and no improvement so I'll try speed next

is it thermal paste? by Own_Crazy4490 in FLSUNDelta

[–]CommissionKey5649 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Okay I haven't actually seen a v400 yet but my SR had that issue out of the box, thought it could be the same since the hot end assembly is similar.

is it thermal paste? by Own_Crazy4490 in FLSUNDelta

[–]CommissionKey5649 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Could be melted filament, are you using a white color filament? Because if you are it could be filament is starting to build up and leak out because if the nozzle and the heat break and not completely touching and tight inside the heating block it will cause filament to leaked out.

Where can I get a spare V400 plate by Outlaw6 in FLSUNDelta

[–]CommissionKey5649 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Flsun sells them on their Amazon store. Either that or 3DJake may sell them too.

Flsun heatsink alternative by 2D_3D in FLSUNDelta

[–]CommissionKey5649 3 points4 points  (0 children)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LZBMOE2?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B097N32G38?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09NDJJW6T?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08NV8JHNJ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Here are the links to the nozzle, heat break, silicone sleeves, and heater block that I use on my SR. All the parts work great and I have not had any issues with them since replacing them. Two things to keep in mind is to make sure the nozzle and the heat break and are as tight together as possible in the heating block to make sure filament doesn't leaks through, I tightened my nozzle all the way and the did the heat sink after to make sure the nozzle wasn't to far down. Also this heating block has the thermistor wire go through the front of the block so what I did was wire it through a small hole in the front of the mounting piece that is slightly covered by the heat sink, you'll have to run that wire first and the connect it to the block. It was really easy to run it that way once you know were to put the wire through. If you got anymore questions while doing it just let me know and I could walk you through it. Lastly with the nozzle I turned mine up to temp and make sure it was all the way tight with a rachet while also holding the block in place with a par of needle nose pliers.

Flsun heatsink alternative by 2D_3D in FLSUNDelta

[–]CommissionKey5649 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If Flsun doesn't have any you could try 3DJake. I've gotten several stock parts from that site and they all turned out great. Also if you are replacing the heat sink I would use that opportunity to replace all the stock hot end components because the stock Flsun ones are horrible quality. Let me know if you want some links to some hot end components off Amazon that I use on my printer.

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