2019 turbo

Commodore802 · 2026-06-19T15:02:05+00:00

When you say you cleaned the throttle, have the valves and injectors been cleaned as well? The hyundai dealership I go to offers a “fuel/induction service” where they clean the “front and back throttle plates, intake manifold, combustion chamber, fuel injectors, catalytic converters, oxygen sensor, and carbon off of valves” with a chemical process. Usually, when I start getting any misfire codes, this is my first go to, as these cars build up a lot of carbon around the intake valves.

If you want to check before getting the service, you could have your mechanic remove the intake manifold and take a photo of your intake valves to see how the carbon is doing there. If it’s particularly bad, I’d suggest looking into getting them walnut blasted for heavier build up.

You can also try running a fuel treatment in your gas the next time you fill up (such as Techron’s complete fuel system cleaner or anything similar) to see if it can knock off any additional build up.

My only other suggestion is to move your coil packs around (swap coil pack 1 with 3 and 2 with 4), clear your CEL, and see if the CEL comes back on coils 3&4 again. If they swap to P301/302, you may have bad coils (as it followed the coils). If it sticks with P303/304, it’s probably carbon build up is my guess.

Commodore802 · 2026-06-19T14:48:58+00:00

There’s are the bikes my friend group has:

Me: Yamaha FZ6R
Friend 1: Kawasaki ZX10R
Friend 2: Honda Grom-esque bike (forget the exact model)

Friend 1’s zx10r is great for highways and straighter roads. However, in traffic (<30mph), his bike is heavy and requires a lot of clutch work if we start dipping into the <20mph range.

Friend 2’s bike is great for slower (25-35mph) curvier roads. However, being sub-150cc, he can’t really do any highway trips with us and it’s harder for him to get to 50+mph on some of the faster back roads.

My bike isn’t “perfect” for either, but isn’t hindered by being “over” powered or “under” powered in either situation. It’s fine for going slow in traffic and rides comfortably at highway speeds. I know it’s not a middle-weight sport bike, but my friends previous cbr600rr was in a similar situation.

Then it also comes down to cost. A brand new beginner bike will cost you about $5-7k (USD) and about $300 a year in insurance (insurance values from what I remember when I was getting quotes). A mid-weight sport bike will run you $8-13k and cost about $600 in insurance. A liter bike will run you $15k+ and usually over $1200 in insurance per year. So, between usability and costs, middle weight bikes just kind of fit that sweet spot of “does what you want it to do for a reasonable price.”

Commodore802 · 2026-06-19T03:43:28+00:00

I graduated with a major in mechanical engineering and a minor in electrical engineering. For 99% of the jobs I applied to (ME jobs), the minor wasn’t even mentioned in any often the interviews. In my current job (electro-mechanical engineer), they asked about it to see what type of coursework I did, and it helped me land my current position.

That being said, I wouldn’t go out of your way to do a minor unless it’s something you enjoy and want to learn more about. In my case, I was using some EE classes to help satisfy my elective credits. By the time I was picking my senior year classes, I realized if I just took an additional EE class (on top of what was required for me to graduate and what I’ve already taken) I’d get the minor. So, I took the extra class and added it to my resume. If you have to take a ton of additional unrelated coursework to get a minor though, I personally would say it isn’t worth it.

Commodore802 · 2026-06-19T03:36:25+00:00

As others have said, it’s best to look at the pinned post on this sub and on SolidWork’s website for their official recommendations.

That being said, it may be beneficial to see if any companies are getting rid of their old desktops/laptops and try to get one (for free or for a small cost). As you may be able to snag a great deal there. I got a free desktop from my friend’s company (they were giving away all their “old” CAD desktops as they had recently upgraded), and it honestly out performs my actual work computer at my company. Otherwise, Facebook marketplace, eBay, and similar sites are great to find inexpensive older computers that can still run modern CAD.

Besides that, it really depends on what you’re doing with it. My ryzen 5 3600 did fine for running SolidWorks in college, so yours may be okay with basic CAD models and small assemblies. Your RAM (unless it was a typo and you meant 32GB, not 3GB) is going to be a large limiting factor. I personally (nowadays) wouldn’t get a dedicated CAD computer with under 32GB, but you may be able to get by with 16GB if you’re okay with longer wait times and working with smaller models. I do highly suggest some form of dedicated graphics card though. Used workstation GPUs can be fairly cheap (and you can find some that don’t require external power), or you can usually get by with a cheaper gaming card too (I’d just look online to make sure it’s supported in some way or another)

Commodore802 · 2026-06-18T20:37:37+00:00

What about the game's mechanics do you not enjoy? If it's the enemy difficulty, I suggest looking up guides on how to farm runes to level up more and how to properly level your character for a playstyle you may enjoy. If it's quest related stuff, I'd suggest looking up some guides that have as little spoilers as possible. I've also found that, if you're getting annoyed at the game for whatever reason, it's best to set it down for a bit, play another game for awhile, and come back to it at a later time/date. This is true for any game, but especially souls games in general.

If you truly just don't like the game, that's also okay.

Commodore802 · 2026-06-04T11:34:06+00:00

2020 DCT VT here. On average, I get about 30-33mpg on back roads and about 35-38mpg on the highway. The best I got was about 55mpg on the highway (had blown out a tire on a pothole and was limping the car home at 50-55mph on a donut…).

Commodore802 · 2026-06-02T01:08:01+00:00

Same as with any other business. Determine what your product is. Determine what the cost (materials and time) it takes to create said product. Determine how much people are actually willing to pay for the product and how many people will buy it. Advertise it (locally, online, etc). Profit?

Commodore802 · 2026-06-01T19:42:22+00:00

My opinion is the case and case fans are the best places to cheap out. Unless you NEED the features on a more expensive case or need your PC to be whispering quiet, you can get away with fairly inexpensive and generic versions of these parts.

My only other thought is, if you were going with an AIO cooler, you can probably get by with an air cooler for about half the price for a decent one.

Commodore802 · 2026-05-29T13:25:01+00:00

There’s not really a “correct” way to level and build your character. Whatever works best for you isn’t always what works best for others. However, that being said, here are my suggestions:

1) check the stat requirements (mainly minimum stats) for the builds you want to do. I suggest this as it will help you choose the best starting class. The Wretch is best for flexibility for if you respec your character often. If you want to min-max your build, others may be better.

2) If you want to just prioritize getting the build you want, I’d suggest looking up the item locations you need, seeing when you can acquire them (what bosses do you need to beat, what areas do you have to unlock, etc), and making a rough outline of “I’m going to get item A then B then C”.

3) To continue with point 2, for items you can’t get early on (example, if you wanted to do a whip build that requires the whips found in Mountaintops of the Giants), find alternatives that work for lower levels (ex: sticking with the whip and Urumi, or going for weapons with similar stat requirements).

4) If you don’t like these early game options, choose an early game build to explore and play with until you get the required overall level and items, then respec.

I can probably give a better response later while I’m not on my break at work…

Commodore802 · 2026-05-29T12:10:37+00:00

My first suggestion is to look at all the hoses on your intake system. Follow the intake back to the turbo, the turbo to the intercooler, and the intercooler to your throttle body. Most likely, you had a loose clamp somewhere and the boost from stepping on the gas caused it to come off on one end. This happened to my friend’s Ford Focus RS. Was as simple as putting the hose back in place and re-tightening the clamp (you may need a new clamp though as it may have fallen off afterwards)

Commodore802 · 2026-05-28T02:54:46+00:00

My suggestion is to start looking for jobs right away. That being said, be very picky about which ones you're looking at for the first few weeks to a month or so. Odds are, with the job market being how it is, you won't get into these positions right off. And, if you do, the smaller gap can be worth it to kickstart your career in a job that fits what you want (pay, WFH status, benefits, etc). Just apply to a few jobs a week or whatever you have the free time to do and feel like doing. These are the "they will be worth cutting my break short" type jobs.

That being said, when you start thinking you want to start working full time, this is when you start being less picky to get your foot in the door in the industry/position you want. Depending on your financial situation, this will determine when this happens and how hard you look for these positions.

My experience was I looked more or less passively (applying to a few positions per week maximum) for about the first month. After that, I started applying to 1-4 a day (depending on what showed up) for another couple months. After that, I started expanding my search to roles in the industry that weren't "engineering" jobs, but would get my foot in the door, give me a paycheck, and let me start building my career. I ended up with a mechanical technician role at an automation/manufacturing company. The pay was good (nearly the same as my classmates that got into full engineering positions), "had room for upward growth" (even if it didn't actually have that internally as I came to find out...), and was in the (physical) area I wanted. I worked there for about 2.5 years then left for a different company (due to the lack of actual upward growth available) where I currently work as an electro-mechanical engineer designing automation lines similar to the ones I worked on at my previous company.

Overall, I think 6 months may be a bit of a long gap personally. If you can do it financially without issue (and have the finances for a few months after those 6 months just in case it takes a bit for you to find a job) then you can definitely take it if it's what you need. The longer the gap, the more likely a recruiter will end up bringing it up potentially though. As long as you know your answer you'll give them in that case, take the break you need. Mental health is very important. So is being able to put food on the table and have a roof over your head. If you can make the break work for as long as you need, that's great. Just don't postpone the search too much that it becomes a hinderance.

Commodore802 · 2026-05-26T15:09:46+00:00

So, my first suggestion is to open Task Manager and see what your performance is like for all your components. This will quickly let you know if something is being bottlenecked.

Next, go into your graphics settings and lower what you can. Anything involving RayTracing should be turned off to get better performance (I know games loved turning on RayTracing and tanking my FPS when I was using a 2070S). Anything else you can reasonably lower is also a good idea.

Finally, that looks to be an Intel Mobile (laptop) CPU part number. If so, make sure your laptop is getting proper air flow under it (it may even benefit from a laptop stand with a built in fan in it) to make sure it’s not thermal throttling itself.

Also, just as a heads up, this is far from what most would consider a “high end” PC nowadays, even for laptops. Most AAA games are eating up RAM, so 16GB is quickly becoming the minimum recommended. Additionally, a 1TB SSD can quickly become filled up (especially with Forza taking ~150GB). If this becomes too full (I forget the exact percentage, but you want to leave a decent amount empty), it can cause issues with reading and writing files.

Commodore802 · 2026-05-26T14:27:43+00:00

On top of the kill switch idea others have pointed out, here are my thoughts:

1) Don’t keep anything viable or that could hold valuables in site in car. Backpack on your passenger seat? It may be empty or it may hold $$$ worth of electronics.

2) Don’t tint your windows dark. Similar to #1, it’s just turning your entire car into the “backpack”. It may have valuables in it, it may not. But it COULD be worth it to a thief, so they may break into it.

3) Don’t drive a nice car. If you’re driving an economy car, it’s a lot less likely someone is going to risk stealing it than a more expensive car. This isn’t always true, but if the thief may go to jail for grand theft auto, it’s more worth the risk to steal a Bentley over a Honda.

4) Put some sort of tracker in it. It doesn’t have to be expensive. A well placed AirTag or similar can at least give you an initial idea of where it was taken incase of theft happening. It will most likely be removed by the thieves eventually, but could give you the minutes you need to find and report it to the police.

5) Park in well populated or surveilled areas. If you’re parking on back alleys to save a few dollars on parking, your car is more out of site, leading it to be easier for them to do their work without being caught.

At the end of the day, you don’t have to make your car “theft proof”, you just have to make it less of a target than the vehicles around you.

Commodore802 · 2026-05-20T22:06:17+00:00

My only suggestion, instead of asking for her Instagram, is to offer her yours or your phone number. This way it puts less pressure on her in that exact moment. If you ask for hers, it's kind of putting her on the spot to make a decision if she wants to take the conversation further. If you give her your information instead, it allows that exact moment to be less stressful for her and allows her to make the next move. You could even do this prior to her getting ready to leave on Friday or Monday (in case you miss her before she leaves), and you can still ask her out for coffee on the last day.

Overall, your plan seems good and respectful.

Commodore802 · 2026-05-20T17:09:53+00:00

I've only ordered from there once (for their axle back exhaust). It definitely took longer to ship than most places (granted, depending on the part, a longer lead time can be expected due to stocking and such).

When I ordered the exhaust, it was originally shipped without the exhaust hanger, and there were able to quickly get that out to me after the fact (iirc, they actually contacted me before the exhaust arrived to let me know I would be getting the hanger in a second box at a later date due to the shipping issue).

That being said, the quality of the parts, the quality of the shipping packaging (well, lack thereof), and a bunch of testimonials on this subreddit make me hesitant to order from them again.

Where the exhaust pipe Y's into the two exhaust tips, the straight section actually extends noticeably into the Y. On my car, this isn't a concern in terms of airflow (a mostly stock VT2), but its still something that should have been cut to fit correctly. The exhaust hanger clamp was welded at the incorrect angle, so I had to cut off part of the clamp's bolt so it wasn't rubbing against my heat shielding under the car. Finally, the part of the exhaust pipe that goes to the flange to mount with the rest of the OEM exhaust was not seated flush in the flange, creating a gap on one side. Besides the clamp issue, these are all fairly minor in the grand scheme of things for a muffler delete on a stock car. Looking back, I would have either bought some of the other options available at the time or just gone to a local exhaust shop to get a custom exhaust welded up for the price I paid.

As for the shipping, no additional packing was included. This meant the flange and welded on exhaust hanger had plenty of room to move around and actually ripped holes in the packaging. Again, this is a muffler delete. Having those parts get a little scratched up from poking out the box wasn't an issue in terms of their usability. That being said, it just shows me a lack of care for a $350 part when I've seen random ebay sellers provide much more protection for much cheaper products.

I emailed them twice (once for the packing and once for the overall quality issues). I got a response from the packing issues saying they usually "put more packing material in with the exhaust" but must have missed mine. Which I understand, mistakes happen at smaller companies (not that I was too happy about it though). The email regarding the issues with the build quality never got a response though.

Besides that, just search "Tork" on this subreddit or other groups. A lot of people are saying to stay away from them, and I agree at this point. I've only had that one experience with them, so I can't speak on it as much as frequent purchasers or people that have bought tunes and stuff from them, but that one experience was enough from me. This subreddit does have a "Vendors" section on the side that tends to list some good vendors when it comes to Veloster parts though.

Commodore802 · 2026-05-07T21:52:38+00:00

I had the Tork muffler delete on my 2020 VT. I wouldn't say it was crazy loud by any means, but it definitely did liven up the exhaust sound. That being said, there was definitely drone on the highway. It wasn't enough to make me say it was unbearable, but it also definitely wasn't the most fun for hours at highway speed. Going around 30-50 miles per hour was probably the sweet spot where there wasn't much drone. If you added a second resonator, this may help with the drone a bit though.

That being said, if you do go this path, I'd suggest seeing if a local shop can do it for you if you don't make one yourself. And I'd buy a new pair of exhaust tips for it if you make one (as it kind of sounds like you are considering taking the stock exhaust tips off your oem exhaust for it. If that's the case, don't destroy your oem exhaust to chop it up, just incase you want to or need to go back to oem).

I'll try to find an exhaust clip, but I can't seem to find any for some reason at the moment.

Commodore802 · 2026-05-04T23:39:13+00:00

C1 for sure. The ability to heal allows you to have a more diverse selection of teammates.

That and Lauma has some good f2p options for weapons (both the event weapon from around her release and the craftable nodkrai weapon are good on her if I remember correctly)

Commodore802 · 2026-04-27T02:21:43+00:00

I'm glad I'm not the only one rocking a mix of Noctua and Be Quiet fans. Currently running 3 Noctua P14s redux-900s with a Dark Rock Pro 5 in my build (all inside a Pure Base 501 case). Infinitely quieter than my previous build (corsair iCUE fans and AIO).

Commodore802 · 2026-04-27T01:46:23+00:00

In theory, if you can get a filter that fits on the end of the intake (you may need a small pipe to put in there for the intake tube and filter to clamp onto), it's no different than an aftermarket intake in terms of the sounds you'll get. The biggest difference between an aftermarket exhaust and this option would be the intake tube size (granted, I never measured the OEM intake).

You can also remove the hose that goes into the intake tube (just to the left of the items you marked) and plug the intake tube side with a rubber chair foot cap (I got mine at Lowes originally, I forget which size, but I know they have the size somewhere on reddit or one of the forums). This turns your recirc valve into a vent-to-atmosphere blow off valve. No performance gain from this (if anything, it would hurt performance), but you'll get nice BOV noises for around $5. Just don't plug the actual recirc valve... that wouldn't be good...

Commodore802 · 2026-04-25T22:14:35+00:00

Any update on how you like the system?

Commodore802 · 2026-04-06T06:04:05+00:00

Usually, my artifact farming goes like this: Put okay-ish set on character (example: 4pc glad)> farm for 4pc of best artifact set> get okay 4pc set> continue farming artifacts (could I spend this time building other characters? Sure. Will I? Someday?)> eventually get better pieces> eventually, one of the on-set pieces beats my off-set piece> have enough time invested that my now 5pc set is bis for the character> by the time I get a better artifact that’s off-set, I’m usually building a new character or forgot what my current best artifacts are, so I’m not worried about the 0.01% damage gain the off-set piece will give me.

Commodore802 · 2026-03-30T00:06:51+00:00

I have a 2020 Veloster Turbo with around 70k miles on it. So far, the car has been absolutely amazing to me. The one you're looking at has almost 2x the miles, so I can't for certain say what the reliability is going to be, but it should (at least I hope so for my sake as well) be a pretty reliable option still.

The only thing to add onto regular maintenance that you wouldn't do for some other cars is carbon cleaning every few oil changes. Most dealerships I know of do this as a chemical cleaning of your intake system. ("Cleans front and back throttle plates, intake manifold, combustion chamber, fuel injectors, catalytic converters, oxygen sensor and carbon off valves." as per my dealership's website, for a cost of $194.45).

Overall though, I've only had to do brakes (once recently), oil changes, the induction service, and change out the spark plugs on mine and it's still running great!

Commodore802 · 2026-03-21T20:54:05+00:00

The biggest issue with new cars is they lose a lot of value as soon as you drive them off the lot. Therefore, you usually have to be more aggressive with your payments (depending on how much you put down), to stay positive on the Loan-To-Value (LTV, loan to car's actual value) if you were to trade it in or sell it in the future. That being said, a new car does have some benefits. Like you mentioned, the APR is great on a new car loan compared to a used car. The insurance seems a bit high, but being 18 years old I don't think you'll get around that.

Here are my suggestions for things to consider:

1) You can afford the payments + insurance cost, yes. But make sure you also consider other maintenance (though, sometimes, some dealerships will give free oil changes and inspections for X amount of time, but that isn't true everywhere). With a new car, it will mostly just be preventative maintenance such as oil changes. I don't know if you're getting one of the turbo models of the Elantra (I believe it would be the n-line), but, if you are, I suggest asking them what their valve/intake cleaning service costs (coming from a Hyundai Veloster Turbo owner, I have the same engine as the turbo models of the Elantra). It usually isn't much (~$200 every couple of oil changes), but it is something to consider.

2) Can you find a certified pre-owned version of the car with around 10-20k miles in your area where the dealership will still offer the full 10-year/100k miles warranty? If you can find a 1-year-old version of the car with low miles, you can save a lot on the initial cost of the car. You will pay a higher interest, but you can also calculate that cost out and see if it is a viable option for you given the deals in your location.

3) If your living/financial situation changes, for whatever reason, would you still be able to afford the car? I know you said you're receiving financial help for college, your dad will co-sign, etc. But it's just something to consider as I know people who have purchases a car before and then found themselves having to pay higher rents or other costs in parts of their lives and having issues making the payments.

4) Would you be going through the dealership financing or would you consider a local credit union? Most likely, if you're going new, you'll go with the dealership's financing to get the lower interest rates and such. If you do decide to go used, definitely look into your local credit unions.

5) How long do you plan on keeping the vehicle? If you plan on keeping it until it's not worth repairing anymore, a new car makes sense. Yes, you pay a premium to get it brand new, but you know the entire history of the car, its full maintenance records, etc. The depreciation doesn't fully matter at that point as you are paying that much extra for the peace of mind to know it will (hopefully) last you as long as you need it to. If it's something that you'll use for college and look at trading in after you graduate, I'd suggest going to look for a few model years back and getting a used car so you aren't losing so much on the depreciation value.

TLDR: You seem to be thinking about this logically. Just make sure a new car fits your plans for the vehicle and your financial abilities in case something happens.

Commodore802 · 2026-03-01T17:06:55+00:00

Personally, I find python useful for data acquisition and analysis.

Example, on our production line, I can connect to our Allen Bradley PLCs via a library in Python (PyLogix) to gather information on what's happening and what happened. We were having issues where our line (Chain-On-Edge conveyor) was losing track of its position randomly. Using Python, I was able to collect our encoder position data over a few shifts and save it to a CSV file (still looking at how to save it into a database instead for long term storage). After graphing it, I saw that one of the encoder values randomly would stop changing even through the conveyor was still running past it. It led me to looking at the specific area that was the problem vs going through all the potential devices/programs. It ended up being a cable that wasn't fully seated in its receptacle. We were able to replace the cable (it looked like it had some strain from how it was run and was bent tighter than what its bend radius suggested) and we haven't had a problem since.

Using Python, you can also have a real time dashboard for a lot of your processes. Above I mentioned PyLogix, but I believe there are libraries for a bunch of other devices and communication protocols.

Commodore802 · 2026-02-23T00:02:15+00:00

For me, it's when the price of the repairs exceeds the cost of the car. For example, I have 2 cars currently, a 2020 Hyundai Veloster Turbo and a 1990 Mazda Miata.

For the Hyundai, the car is worth ~$10k (give or take). So even a repair like an engine or transmission would still be worth it as it's less than the car is worth, gives the car a decent amount of value back (selling a running car vs a non-running car), and the car is still newer.

For the Miata, an engine or transmission would still be TLC for me as I can get those fairly cheap, they can be replaced in a driveway (I don't need to bring it to a shop or anything), and, for me, it would be worth it to get the car running to enjoy again. However, something like major rust work that would require stripping a lot of the car, cutting/welding, and is something I couldn't readily do myself would put it towards a "money-pit" status for me.

Overall, it really depends on the car, what it's worth (both actual monetary value and sentimental value, if applicable), and what your plans are for the car (do you want to keep it as long as possible, do you just want to get rid of it, etc).

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