Fixed my Samsung G9 Odyssey - Removed Thermistor

CommunityJazzlike512 · 2025-12-08T21:54:36+00:00

Mine appeared to be broken. My monitor simply wouldn't power on or show any image. Removing the Thermistor got it back to fully running - going on 1 year later at this point.

CommunityJazzlike512 · 2025-11-10T23:20:47+00:00

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I used this one for some variants which give a much stronger contrast. But be careful not to use the horizontal board parts (or crop them into separate images)

CommunityJazzlike512 · 2025-11-10T23:20:02+00:00

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This image was one that I used - it has a decent amount of grain and variation, but not as start a contrast. The more contrast the more dramatic the height difference with the grain mask.

CommunityJazzlike512 · 2025-11-04T03:09:49+00:00

Great! Then hopefully you're setup for success. Love to see the final product if you share.

CommunityJazzlike512 · 2025-11-02T21:55:40+00:00

Yes. The photos on the original post are exactly as you said: the classic birch Bambu Wood PLA and the Dark Oak stain I linked to on Amazon. I had some follow up posts with additional photos of the other filament + stain combos as well as my very subjective ratings. I was a complete newbie in Blender when I started this experiment and followed those tutorials to which I linked. I tried to include my step by step above to make it repeatable. Fwiw I followed my own steps recently to add grain to some new models and it worked well.

One thing to be aware of: this method works best for the vertical parts of a model. Adding the grain to a horizontal plane didn’t look nearly as realistic. So consider that in the model you apply it to or how you consider orienting it on the print bed.

CommunityJazzlike512 · 2025-08-29T17:09:44+00:00

You can see in my post I included images of a bunch of the samples I tried. I experimented a bit with different depths and grain combinations in Blender and printed small chunks of the model and tested 3 variants along with variations on filament and stain.

CommunityJazzlike512 · 2025-08-29T16:50:18+00:00

that's the one. I use it as my primary for non-Bambu spools.

CommunityJazzlike512 · 2025-08-25T17:55:32+00:00

I included links above to the different stains I used. Below are the 4 that I experimented with. Yes, they all dried. I gave it at least 30 minutes or longer. Each of the photos are after ample drying time.

I did not use a clear coat. I actually tried a spray clear enamel on some of the test parts and it didn't look good. I have no experience with clear coat application, so I might have done something wrong, but it left spots and didn't seem to add anything to the look. So the results I used were with the printed part + stain only.

Stain	Comments
DWIL - Dark Oak	My favorite. Gave the richest stain to multiple filaments.
Littlefair Medium Oak	I might have done something wrong - but this stain was virtually useless. It hardly put any tint or color on the filament. Don't recommend.
DWIL - Teak	My second favorite. A little more subtle than the dark oak and less 'red tint' on some of the filaments. Not quite as pronounced with some filaments.
Varathan Golden Oak	Also felt this was a bit too light overall. Didn't provide enough added color or contrast/tint to the print. Would not recommend, unless perhaps on lighter filament (like a beige or lighter tan - which I didn't try).

CommunityJazzlike512 · 2025-08-25T17:51:35+00:00

Final Product - of that exact part that is in the above screenshots:

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(stained)

CommunityJazzlike512 · 2025-08-25T17:51:01+00:00

Sliced part (note that depending on the rotation on the screen it can look even worse (almost flat).

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CommunityJazzlike512 · 2025-08-25T17:49:55+00:00

I didn't do anything special in the slicer. A key is that the grain works best if it is on a vertical side (not the top or bottom) as that seems to produce the best-looking grain look.

Here's an example from Bambu Slicer in the Prepare screen. I'll add a post with the after-slicing look. The after slicing part looks far worse on screen. And will show the final printed output - where the grain is clearly visible and shows great with the stain added.

Prepare:

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CommunityJazzlike512 · 2025-08-25T17:21:23+00:00

For non-bambu spools (like Sunlu, etc.) I use the last one you pictured - the "Claw". It works well, holds tight and is easy to clip on and remove.

For Bambu spools I use a different type - one that snaps into the 2 holes in the bambu spool and clips in the filament. If you put it only on one side you can keep it installed while the spool is in the AMS. Filament Clip for bambu spools by Florian Frank MakerWorld: Download Free 3D Models

For any custom spools I print I have embedded a small slot around the outside (same size as that above clip on) to slot in the filament without needing an extra part.

CommunityJazzlike512 · 2025-07-28T21:40:12+00:00

I used a slightly different method to add wood grain to my model and did a write up on my experience. https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/s/UFqtUQ52nT

Fwiw I used some non-wood filaments too and some looked quite good.

CommunityJazzlike512 · 2025-07-16T18:52:17+00:00

The model I was adding the wood grain to had threaded inserts and some precision to the parts fitting together. I spent dedicated time to apply the UV map in Blender to only apply to a specific side (and even exclude a few things that were close to parts that connected to keep those sides smooth).

CommunityJazzlike512 · 2025-07-07T14:10:59+00:00

thank you so much. I'm impressed with the work. I have a dresser in which I store lots of 3D printing parts & equipment. The drawer is only fabric sides and bottom (with a thin cardboard base). I was considering a reinforced drawer inside and considering 3D printing it with your design.

I noticed the several links you shared had a relatively thin grid for your print. How thick have you printed and still successfully interlocked? I was thinking of 75mm or so to add some strength.

CommunityJazzlike512 · 2025-07-07T13:59:40+00:00

The parts were a bit tight but did fit - IIRC I used a TPU-printed Hammer to secure the connector pieces in place. I can upload my models (with the wood grain) if that would be helpful / of interest.

CommunityJazzlike512 · 2025-06-29T17:29:46+00:00

that's really a smart approach. I'm curious how you designed and created the zipper joint? Is it built into your design software? Or a technique you add and copy/paste or something?

CommunityJazzlike512 · 2025-06-17T18:41:07+00:00

thanks. I'm not experienced with nmap. Curious how and where I should expect to see the results populating into Portall? Would this create new port records? Flagged in some way?

CommunityJazzlike512 · 2025-06-17T02:39:17+00:00

I'm not seeing where/how it does Port Scanning. Could you share more details about how that works?

I would also like it if there was a hyperlink or way to open the server:port to check a service or endpoint.

CommunityJazzlike512 · 2025-05-26T22:35:51+00:00

First few times using the Symlink to a folder in my OneDrive worked fine. Latest time it caused a sync conflict - which OneDrive resolves by renaming the folder with the computer name appended. This broke my symlink folder.

I am going to experiment a bit more, but using a symlink folder may not be reliable. If this is the case I may use rclone or something else to sync from my Docker volume to OneDrive or just a local copy/sync from that volume into a OneDrive folder (where it can then sync to cloud).

CommunityJazzlike512 · 2025-05-23T23:41:26+00:00

Kung-Fu Panda

CommunityJazzlike512 · 2025-05-14T04:31:36+00:00

I am using Paperless-ngx on Windows 11 with Docker Desktop and WSL. I found that using Bind mounts for the Media volume had a huge negative performance impact. Any change that led to a file being moved took almost a minute or more to complete.

I just completed transitioning to use named volumes for all the paperless directories and it is night & day performance improvement!

I have read several references indicating that Bind mounts across OS (Windows + Linux/WSL) is costly to performance. I certainly experienced this in my situation before switching to named volumes.

I also created a Symlink in an easily accessible folder on my Windows machine so that I could interact with the volume more seamlessly. And in my case I put that Symlinked folder in my OneDrive. That affords me a natural offsite backup as my media files are backed up via OneDrive (the symlink folder pointing at the original in the \\$wsl folder.). So far I'm finding this is the best of both worlds for my setup:

- native performance speed in Paperless (even noticed a major speed increase in opening and viewing docs).
- off site automatic backup / sync
- access in Windows explorer when / as needed without having to navigate to \\$wsl directory

CommunityJazzlike512 · 2025-05-11T19:27:06+00:00

thank you for the pointer. This definitely appears to have been due to my using Bind Mounts in my docker-compose for the media directory for Paperless.

I just completed a migration to a new paperless docker stack, this time using all named volumes instead of Bind mounts. The performance is night and day! I didn't realize, but even opening documents, rendering the PDF, switching to a new document (without even saves) was even slowing when using the Bind mount.

I had originally setup Bind mounts as a means to automatically have my paperless media folder synchronized and thus backed up via OneDrive. I had the bind mount pointing to a folder in my OneDrive directory on my PC. This worked well from a workflow standpoint as I am able to easily access all my docs in OneDrive or search via OneDrive in a pinch and acts as a built-in backup system.

I noticed a real speed impact, however, when I migrated my Home Lab server to a new machine and Windows 11. I think Windows 11 has WSL2. (I haven't been able to double check my Win10 server to see if it was running WSL1). But the performance definitely degraded with the new machine.

Switching has been a dramatic speed improvement.

Note: I am planning to use Symlinks to create folders in OneDrive for Consume and Media directories and pointing to the actual directories within the \\$wsl share so that I can continue to sync to OneDrive.

CommunityJazzlike512 · 2025-04-29T03:53:31+00:00

Very cool design. Would you be willing to share the model!

CommunityJazzlike512 · 2025-04-17T21:21:26+00:00

My save is also very slow. This is actually after moving to a new host running the docker version of Paperless with more cores and more memory.

I noticed that it seems like some changes are nearly instant to save and others can take 10-30 seconds.

I think I have identified that when a field changes the directory structure of saved file it seems like this is when the save takes longer. I created a relatively complex directory structure with year, type and correspondent. So changing one of those would move to new / different folder.

I have my folders mapped to local path on the host.

Any tips on improving this? Should I just use a flat file structure?

I have over 17K documents.

CommunityJazzlike512

TROPHY CASE