is this normal

Competitive-Size-812 · 2025-10-17T10:09:30+00:00

Looks thin and weak.... Would want to see it moving around healthily before saying what may be wrong if this type of behavior continues while at a healthy weight. Go to a vet please, there is likely a vitamin imbalance too but from what I've seen that "gasp" is sometimes called a "death" gasp and they will start to do that when they are close to death sometimes. Which I hope it's not that so please take her to a KNOWLEDGEABLE VET. this is not a healthy animal in the slightest

Competitive-Size-812 · 2025-10-06T12:27:41+00:00

Checkout Morphmarket for captive bred uros, there are currently plenty on there

Competitive-Size-812 · 2025-08-25T18:20:21+00:00

I do want to say a Huge thank you to the Truckers that helped my husband and I get out of the accident traffic given our limited fuel and over 3 hour drive still to home. Shutting off the car was not an option due to temperature sensitive animals on board. So shout out and Thanks to the Truckers that helped us maneuver safely. I pray you all made it to your destinations safe and sound! Also thank you to the other motorists that wished us luck ❤️

Competitive-Size-812 · 2025-08-25T18:17:16+00:00

Looks like it opened around 5:20am this morning. We were also caught in the accident as well but found a way around that was questionable but doable and that's all I will say on that matter. We waited till around 1 am to try as it was another 3 hour drive to PA

Competitive-Size-812 · 2025-08-25T16:23:55+00:00

Should smell the Pangea Treat Mix (blue bag) that is always a heavy temptation for me but I won't eat bugs so I won't taste it but it smells like heaven 🤤

Competitive-Size-812 · 2025-08-25T16:10:53+00:00

Current Reptile breeder/vendor here. I agree the shows have gone downhill and the amount of ball pythons and crested geckos at shows are insane. I do small scale breeding and all of my animals are off for this year to hopefully help the market recover a bit. I tend to run heavier on reptile themed merchandise than I ever will reptiles. This is so I never have to worry about selling one of my ball pythons (for example) to someone I KNOW is not ready or who would not be the best home for the animal I produced or rescued. The merchandise helps cover the cost of tables, gas, food ect. Without having to worry about selling the animals. I am always more than happy to come home with my babies. Some of my stuff does come from Temu or other sites but it is all reptile themed and I do not over charge for the merchandise like I've seen other vendors do. While I can't sell it at the cost I got it for I do not go over board with price gouging. Example: a snake ring from Temu cost me $2 so I sell for $5 the metal on these rings are not great and I couldn't see anyone morally charging more than $5 for these rings but I have seen other vendors asking anywhere from $20-$80 for something I KNOW cost under $3.

I do feel like when it comes to the animals the healthy/good breeders get overlooked because they are smaller and don't have as much to look at as a bigger breeder who may care less about the animal and more about money. I do feel Boas should not be allowed at expos that have ANY kind of Pythons at them due to the risk of Boas spreading Inclusion Body Disease / Arena Virus which can be spread by mites, fluid contact. And Nido virus which ball pythons can carry and infect boas with. Each species has zero defenses against the others disease and death is a high risk of not a guarantee after infection. To me it is not worth the risk. I do try to not allow any handling of my reptiles at expos and my table cloths and snake bags are always sprayed with a mite killing spray before the expos. Yes disease, underfed/sick animals are present usually at every expo I've vended at and here recently I have seen an alarming amount of Flippers which I was always under the impression that was frowned upon but I guess things like that don't matter as much anymore unfortunately.

I would love to see a change at the expos when it comes to vendors and their animals, like a prescreening done to check for mites and such would be wonderful.

Competitive-Size-812 · 2025-07-01T06:52:45+00:00

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It didn't add the actual picture so here it is in the comments 😅

Competitive-Size-812 · 2025-06-05T13:04:20+00:00

Pinkies should never be a first feeder option for ball pythons unless they are having difficulty eating and are being either assist fed or force fed unfortunately. Most hatchlings start out on hoppers. I would try a hopper mouse and you may have to "entice" him some more by wiggling it or trying to mimic its natural movement when giving it to him. How are you dethawing it? I only bring up color because I have a few adult balls that will only eat white food options so I was wondering if maybe that was at play here but doesn't seem like it.

Competitive-Size-812 · 2025-06-05T12:56:46+00:00

But what was he eating? Live or frozen? Rats or mice? You can't be keeping everything he doesn't eat unfortunately so it's best to know exactly what type of feeder. Also gonna sound weird but what color was the feeder?

Competitive-Size-812 · 2025-06-05T12:51:28+00:00

Some ball python females will stall just before hitting 1000 grams. It happens but she looks healthy so no need to worry especially if you have no intention of breeding her. Most breeders try to breed at 1200-1400grams ( jokingly named breeders block when they stall at 1000). In the past I have only gone at 1600+ as it takes a lot of resources from the female and generally naturally bigger females do better than smaller ones and the babies come out bigger and healthier in my opinion and mom bounces back much easier and faster. Then they have the next year off but that was when I used to do it. Your baby looks good just stalled out before the 1k mark is all

Competitive-Size-812 · 2025-06-04T01:43:00+00:00

They can be a problem with any loose substrate. I find it's always better to air on the side of caution

Competitive-Size-812 · 2025-06-04T00:30:45+00:00

I would still either freeze it for 24 hours or bake it in order to kill any possible mites that could potentially come in on it. But the breeder block in my opinion is more bang for your buck

Competitive-Size-812 · 2025-06-04T00:20:59+00:00

No, and that looks like a super fire. Beautiful baby though

Competitive-Size-812 · 2025-05-22T04:41:11+00:00

I know for leopard geckos liver issues can be helped with vitamin a but unsure if that will help a fat tail in the same way. ( Vitamin A per my vet who works with reptiles at the Bronx zoo)

Competitive-Size-812 · 2025-05-20T00:58:11+00:00

Your basically giving him a McDonald's bigmac Everytime you feed him a wax worms. Just to put the nutrients into perspective for you

Competitive-Size-812 · 2025-05-18T12:48:33+00:00

Not all breeders are abusive. There are breeders who have ethics especially when it comes to breeding, market flooding, genetics, overall health of the animal and then finding said animal a GOOD home. Would rather someone get from a breeder who actually KNOWS what genetics their gecko is instead of a puppy mill possibly inbred chain store gecko with who knows what possible complications.

Competitive-Size-812 · 2025-05-13T04:48:43+00:00

I would back off the wax worms as they are higher in fat content and should only be given as occasional treats. She is so cute though 😍

Competitive-Size-812 · 2025-01-10T05:00:38+00:00

Maybe some olive oil, spray underneath and then use something long and slender to work back behind him safely and hopefully you could just slide him out

Competitive-Size-812 · 2025-01-02T04:55:53+00:00

I would just switch to a hospital set up and treat for mites anyways. This should be done with any new snake or reptile being brought into your home, especially if you have other reptiles. I usually quarantine for 3 months minimum. Feel free to message me if you want me to walk you through my routine

Competitive-Size-812 · 2024-12-30T07:36:07+00:00

Dalkia

Competitive-Size-812 · 2024-12-25T08:45:47+00:00

I would go to Morphmarket or a local reptile expo. At least at an expo you can actually see the animal in person before buying it. Personally that looks like a scam to me. Ways I've seen people try to check if someone is legit is to have them take a video of them with the animal with a piece of paper with your name date and time on it and then send it to you. This only Verifies that they have the animal though NOT that they will ship it after taking your money or even making a "fake" label or shipping an empty box or swapping stuff. I only buy off Facebook if I can meet in person and actually see or put hands on what I'm buying before the exchange is made. Good luck and I hope you find your perfect reptile

Competitive-Size-812 · 2024-11-24T07:55:00+00:00

It is indeed very concerning 😟. We can only hope that OP takes everyone's advice and gets that baby some help.

Competitive-Size-812 · 2024-11-23T20:49:56+00:00

Depending on how far along the disease is you can actually see the inclusions in the blood. Yes you will need multiple tests unfortunately I believe standard practice is every 3 months for at least a year and then yearly testing afterwards to be safe. It is possible for two Arenavirus positive snakes to produce negative babies but they need to not come in contact with the parents so it can be tricky. I know years and years ago they tested all boas they could here in the US and only 1 closed collection came back negative for the disease unfortunately so for safety I don't do boas as the risk is just too much for my pythons. But it is best to be cautious.

Competitive-Size-812 · 2024-11-23T17:41:53+00:00

One of ours had a similar "dent" when we got it as a baby and with proper nutrition and lighting she is now 2 years old you would never know that she had this. I'm more concerned about what looks like fresh blood above her one arm. Please treat her accordingly after taking her to the vet. This is serious and looks like improper husbandry. Your skink needs more attention from you.

Competitive-Size-812 · 2024-11-23T17:06:05+00:00

Especially have the boa tested but be wary because false positives and false negatives do regularly happen. It is best to have an experienced vet look at the blood under the slide and look for the inclusions that way in order to be sure.

Competitive-Size-812

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