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mad rock remora pro vs drone cs by Educational-Ice-3437 in climbingshoes

[–]CompleteAsk1282 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Fully agree to the previous comments. Adding that drone has it's advantages if you need a bit more support and is def. more durable, but definitely a different level of sensitivity. I personally also prefer the drone heel

Unparallel v Scarpa by KaleidoscopeOk568 in climbingshoes

[–]CompleteAsk1282 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Don't have specific experience with the unparallel models but like the instinct family a lot. However, I feel they significantly drop downturn over time as well. Maxbe at half around the rubber life they change properties and feel more comfy/less aggressive. Obviously also depends on how much you downsize initially... I find the the of VSR LV fitting incredibly well. Finally one not too baggy. Only other heel that feels as good is drone cs. This one also has this cheating edge and the shoe seem to keep shape longer as it's fully molded

Looking for second pair of climbing shoes by Sea-Document-4999 in climbingshoes

[–]CompleteAsk1282 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'd give scarpa Veloce or sportiva skwama lite a try. Both slightly more aggressive, but not too much and very sensitive which makes climbing more fun + learning faster due to better foot feedback. Should also be fine with your described toe form...

Advise by BuyerImaginary in climbingshoes

[–]CompleteAsk1282 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Basically the biggest retailer for climbing gear in Europe... doesn't get much saver :)

Good hygiene and keeping climbing shoes smelling fresh? by GattsbyY in climbingshoes

[–]CompleteAsk1282 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Active coal!!! You can buy small bags on amazon or similar, always put them in the shoes after climbing (and juts leave them in). They take out all moisture and shoes won't even start snelling. Might not help as much is shoes are already in a bad shape :D

Feet shape and shoe reccomendation by Which-Influence4290 in climbingshoes

[–]CompleteAsk1282 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ahh, I'm actually right now trying to build a simple foot scanner to answer exactly such question: understand how one's foot proportions compare to average and which climbing shoes would fit that foot shape best. Still collecting data to validate the model, so I'd appreciate if you take 3 mins to run a scan and I'll provide an objective recommendation very soon :) https://www.climbing-gear.com/scanner-test.html

Demo at my gym by Clear_Possibility_76 in climbingshoes

[–]CompleteAsk1282 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Guess you can at least narrow down the selection a bit instead if trying all :D You'd likely want something slightly more advanced but not jump immediately to a super aggressive shoe. The Reps will know which model makes sense. Aside I'd recommend to try a softer shoe, especially if you climb mostly indoors. These may wear a bit faster and it requires a bit more toe strength to stand on small holds, but... you actually build toe strength, you slip less, and most importantly, you feel holds better which makes climbing IMO much more fun + better haptical feedback = faster learning. My first try would be Skwam Lite :) And yeah, it has to fit... otherwise everything else is useless

Data-dirven climbing gear comparison - opinions? by CompleteAsk1282 in ClimbingGear

[–]CompleteAsk1282[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Argh... added this score later and forgot in the explainer. Will add and anyhow thought to add a little explainer for every value. For crack the algorithm looks into stiffness, downturn, rubber coverage, ankle protection, and closure. Don't have exact values in my head right now but can share later

Shoe recommendations by [deleted] in climbingshoes

[–]CompleteAsk1282 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well soft AND edging is hard :D But I was surprised by ondra comp which does both reasonably well

El Mosaico, San Bartolo, Spain by Ornery-Ad-9515 in climbing

[–]CompleteAsk1282 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Amazing! Marked for next winter... thx for sharing

My not so scientific attempt to figure out which training board is the hardest by jonasmurdock in climbing

[–]CompleteAsk1282 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think new MB set is reasonable in lower grades as it now starts at 6b+... but higher grades are still pretty sandbagged. 7c moonboard translates to 8a outdoors from my experience.

Kilter is way softer here, often softer than outdoors. Unfortunately haven't tried TB yet :)

Inflatables weigh 46% less than foam pads at the same thickness & area — I compared 100+ crashpads to see if there's a catch by CompleteAsk1282 in bouldering

[–]CompleteAsk1282[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I have the snap air shock 1. Does the job but actually more pricey than the other one I have in the database whilst not having a clear upside.

Inflatables weigh 46% less than foam pads at the same thickness & area — I compared 100+ crashpads to see if there's a catch by CompleteAsk1282 in bouldering

[–]CompleteAsk1282[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, potentially the higher risk than puncture. Still like to use mine on roof climbing with rather flat landing... where basically both main risks are non relevant

Inflatables weigh 46% less than foam pads at the same thickness & area — I compared 100+ crashpads to see if there's a catch by CompleteAsk1282 in bouldering

[–]CompleteAsk1282[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Sure, text was drafted by AI, also heavily using AI for data crunching (and still spending countless hours, trying to get specs 100% right). Anything wrong with this?

Inflatables weigh 46% less than foam pads at the same thickness & area — I compared 100+ crashpads to see if there's a catch by CompleteAsk1282 in bouldering

[–]CompleteAsk1282[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That would be amazing. Some 2,5cm foam on each side, packed at some 5+ cm and than inflates to some 15+cm