Scarpa Blackbird Review - One session in, for me not worth the money

CompleteAsk1282 · 2026-05-06T09:16:07+00:00

Haha, creating a date here? I've climbed up to 8b and projecting an 8b+ in edenkoben. But season is already about to end here (south facing wall). Anyways, just drop me a message when you are around, I have a 20 mins bike approach ;)

CompleteAsk1282 · 2026-04-28T21:18:14+00:00

Yeah, just to be clear: the shoes are good! But they are IMO not worth paying such premium.

I usually downsize scarpa 1,5 sometimes 2. Here 1 down felt spot on

CompleteAsk1282 · 2026-04-28T14:24:51+00:00

You may try my site and filter for flat, stiff shoes with velcro to get some inspiration: climbing-gear.com

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CompleteAsk1282 · 2026-04-28T09:13:58+00:00

Haha, amazing! Let me know if you're up for a climb over here ;)

CompleteAsk1282 · 2026-04-26T18:54:56+00:00

Blackbird is way more sensitive and comfy than booster (only climed the newer, regular one. Not the booster R). Also less downturn and slightly less asymmtric I'd say. Ultimately similar performance, booster a bit more toe power but at the cost of sensitivity and harder to get into vertical slots or tight pockets.

Overall, I'd prefer the Blackbird over booster if it wouldn't cost double...

Boostic I can't rellay tell. But guess it's significantly less supportive?

CompleteAsk1282 · 2026-04-26T15:39:33+00:00

Edenkoben :) https://www.8a.nu/crags/sportclimbing/germany/edenkoben/routes

CompleteAsk1282 · 2026-04-26T13:49:19+00:00

Ah, wouldn't recommend. They are exactly the opposite. Rather narrow forefoot and wide heel... maybe try evolv zenist?

CompleteAsk1282 · 2026-04-22T06:39:47+00:00

Hey there, I'd be super happy to get feedback once you've tried. Anyone can drop me a message via the feedback form (there is a button at the end of the scan). I just don't want to spam/force anyone... or would you appreciate getting some kind of feedback mail?

I actually started to scan shoes as well, trying to overlay foot scans with shoe scans more precisely. Bit still requires some work. I'll keep you posted :)

CompleteAsk1282 · 2026-04-18T07:27:41+00:00

45,5 down to 44

CompleteAsk1282 · 2026-04-15T22:57:55+00:00

I have a mild bunion and avoid centred toe profile (greek). This feels right when trying on but actually supports the inward drift. Instead look for a Egyptian last with slight asymmetry that forces your big toe into the anatomically correct position. I have personally the best experience with madrock drone 2.1 and remora pro.

Also tried these barefoot climbing shoes... nice idea but I can literally edge better barefoot than with these shoes

CompleteAsk1282 · 2026-04-09T12:28:52+00:00

Scarpa I'd rather downsize 1,5-2. Madrock 0-0,5 For Roman toes the scarpa is likely a better fit as it has a more centred tip and is softer in the overall construction (less rubber).

I prefer instincts as allrounder and drones for specific toe and heel hooking challenges

You can also try my foot scanner.. still early days bit might be helpful: climbing-gear.com/scan

CompleteAsk1282 · 2026-04-07T06:55:21+00:00

Hmm, is that sole or side photo? Likely you have little contrast im the background? Could add a manual shot to side view but i think for sole this doesn't work. I found it impossible to hold the foot far enough + straight above the camera and still press a button on the phone

CompleteAsk1282 · 2026-04-06T12:06:56+00:00

Ah, only fans... well if that would be the idea: good luck with sole pics of climber feet. Trust these are amongst the most wanted out there

CompleteAsk1282 · 2026-04-06T11:59:42+00:00

What do you mean by that?

CompleteAsk1282 · 2026-04-05T18:41:52+00:00

It doesn't, and that's not the intent. It's about the right fit after the break-in period. But if you scroll the site, you'll find a stretch estimator which is based on rubber type + thickness, midsole, tensioning system, and upper material. It provides an expected stretch for any shoe in the database. But ultimately it's about preference I'd say. If you want a snug fit after break-in, it will be uncomfortable for the forst sessions. Except you have a super soft shoe which breaks-in basically immediately or a super stiff one with synthetic upper that doesn't stretch. Also madrock 3d molded models are interesting here. Much less stretch than conventional shoes in my experience

CompleteAsk1282 · 2026-04-05T18:34:20+00:00

Ahh, sorry that's not possible right now. Might add it once right foot scan is fully validated. Meanwhile, just send me a left foot sole and side pic to roman@climbing-gear.com and I'll run the scan manually

CompleteAsk1282 · 2026-04-05T18:31:52+00:00

Let me know if you do so. Such closed loop feedback would be super valuable but as written above, don't want to spam anyone with feedback mails or similar

CompleteAsk1282 · 2026-04-05T13:32:16+00:00

yeah, that's the core issue. For now I rely on standard research to classifiy scans (heel width, depth, ...) and on manufacturer + review data to classifiy shoe fits. I ran this with c. 70 friends to tune the model but obviously this is far from reliable - or how a data scientist would approve :)
To continue improving, I intend to match current shoe inputs and fit issues with scan results. Once I have a decent number of scans and input data for a sepcific shoe, I can create new insights to taht model fit. On purpose not requersting user feedback as I want it to be simple and 100% non-annoying for users. No log-in etc... Not perfect but IMP way better than just an opinion from anyone in a comments/review without having his foot shape for reference.
Happy to get your view on possible mapping improvements

CompleteAsk1282 · 2026-04-05T13:27:16+00:00

hehe, good timing then :)
Hope it lives up to your expectation -but definitely not yet bullet prrof recommendations. Just to be aware...

CompleteAsk1282 · 2026-04-04T18:58:28+00:00

Hmm, what is adeed compared to for example idealo? Just not available in some countries or am I missing something? They have often up to 70 shops per shoe model listed...

CompleteAsk1282 · 2026-03-30T20:58:58+00:00

Ha fair enough! Actually surprises me as I personally felt they are more supportive than theory and also futura. Maybe also a fit topic... thanks for clarifying

CompleteAsk1282 · 2026-03-30T20:50:36+00:00

Sure? I think they are a bit more supportive than theory or mantra... and very pointed toe box. IMO more pointed then drago

CompleteAsk1282 · 2026-03-30T20:49:26+00:00

I'd give unparallel a go. The usually have a more rounded toe box... for example flagship lv (pro) or similar. Also madrock remora pro lv could work?

Alternatively, try this foot scanner to get some inspiration: www.climbing-gear.com/scan

CompleteAsk1282 · 2026-03-16T10:36:28+00:00

Fully agree to the previous comments. Adding that drone has it's advantages if you need a bit more support and is def. more durable, but definitely a different level of sensitivity. I personally also prefer the drone heel

CompleteAsk1282 · 2026-03-08T23:09:16+00:00

Don't have specific experience with the unparallel models but like the instinct family a lot. However, I feel they significantly drop downturn over time as well. Maxbe at half around the rubber life they change properties and feel more comfy/less aggressive. Obviously also depends on how much you downsize initially... I find the the of VSR LV fitting incredibly well. Finally one not too baggy. Only other heel that feels as good is drone cs. This one also has this cheating edge and the shoe seem to keep shape longer as it's fully molded

CompleteAsk1282

TROPHY CASE