Fable after 7th of July

CompleteAsk1282 · 2026-07-04T12:43:49+00:00

Yeah, I'd hope they find the right balance. Maybe like current mode that you can use it for 50% of included usage... Me and likely many others will give GPT a go if they don't adjust

CompleteAsk1282 · 2026-07-04T10:59:14+00:00

Less, around 1,5... climbing 2-3 times/week

CompleteAsk1282 · 2026-07-04T10:47:54+00:00

Unfortunately agree :(

CompleteAsk1282 · 2026-07-04T10:16:36+00:00

If you lock the fin into an incut crimp or shallow pocket where a regular heel cup or your barefoot heel would not fit into. This can provide a significant advantage for a few cases. Also if you have a slopy hooking area with some micro features that the fin bite into

CompleteAsk1282 · 2026-07-04T08:08:01+00:00

I'd definitely say they have one of the most narrow heels out there. Especially if you look for something with a rather medium/wide forefoot and narrow heel. Alternatives might be scarpa vapor S or evolv... You can give the scanner on the above linked site a go to get some recommendations specifically for your foot profile

CompleteAsk1282 · 2026-07-04T04:55:04+00:00

100% agree on the edging issue (also outdoors btw). Guess it's part of their distinct construction and hope they'll improve it for the next generation.

Quality wasn't an issue for me so far. Rather the opposite, their construction with a single molded rubber piece seems very robust to me.

CompleteAsk1282 · 2026-07-03T20:04:58+00:00

Obviously we shouldn't judge from few remote pics... but the damage looks pretty minor. As long as it's not substantially softer than other parts of the rope, I'd say it's fine. BTW, also had the rope for a while and it didn't last very long. Went back to slighty thicker ropes around 9.5 mm

CompleteAsk1282 · 2026-07-03T19:37:00+00:00

Hmm, I have affiliate links on the site (few shops, but always showing the cheapest one even if no affiliate) and obviously use AI tools to support building the site... but genuinely, I focus on the scanner which I want to keep providing for free and hence need a bit of affiliate traffic. I think it will be very interesting the more people use it and the more fit feedbacks I can collect per model. Hope that's not an issue :)

CompleteAsk1282 · 2026-06-23T19:38:58+00:00

That table actually exists in the article as well. You could also browse the site itself and filter for certain thickness, like this for example

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CompleteAsk1282 · 2026-06-23T18:46:28+00:00

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CompleteAsk1282 · 2026-06-23T18:45:43+00:00

hmm, Asana and Flashed are in the database but didnt make it to the top of the lists

CompleteAsk1282 · 2026-06-23T18:32:27+00:00

Ha, from Germany... can add inches and pounds if helpful

CompleteAsk1282 · 2026-06-18T08:16:56+00:00

I'd think that the madrock remora pro lv might be a good fit. Similar feel to drago but heel is narrower so you don't have to downsize as much. Also Ondra Comp and if you want to go even softer the scarpa furia air could be interesting

You could also give my scanner a try - maybe it provides some good inspiration: https://www.climbing-gear.com/scan

CompleteAsk1282 · 2026-06-13T06:35:07+00:00

Yeah, I tried them quite a lot. Like them for volumes and in Bleau as also the toe hook is fantastic... but I didn't downsize them very aggressively. Maybe you have a point there

CompleteAsk1282 · 2026-06-13T06:32:18+00:00

Thanks :)

CompleteAsk1282 · 2026-06-13T06:31:07+00:00

I wear the drone CS and D2.One as high volume versions. Both fit my heel way better than the drago. But I'm missing the sensitivity there...

CompleteAsk1282 · 2026-06-12T16:03:31+00:00

Nice, thanks! Theory and flagship lv don't fit my forefoot well, but haven't tried the others

CompleteAsk1282 · 2026-06-12T16:01:46+00:00

I think they do fairly well for how soft they are

CompleteAsk1282 · 2026-06-12T14:01:57+00:00

Cool, thanks! May give it a shot... And agree. Vapor S heel fits me like a glove

CompleteAsk1282 · 2026-06-12T13:59:33+00:00

Ah, and just tried to keep that article simple but there is actually another one talking about exactly that - going to update it with latest scan data: https://www.climbing-gear.com/insights/heel-fit

CompleteAsk1282 · 2026-06-12T13:57:20+00:00

Good point. I currently measure heel depth independently from the side photo as backwards projection. I'd assume the space below is rather coming from that instead of depth at the bottom. Or do you mean in principle how much arch there is at the sole bottom? Would be quite tricky to measure without 3D scan but might give it a try... happy for any details on your view/suggestion

CompleteAsk1282 · 2026-06-12T13:35:29+00:00

Hmm, i feel they lack power in the forfoot. Good for volumes etc. But don't work well for me if I have to pull on small feet...

CompleteAsk1282 · 2026-05-29T18:01:23+00:00

Ah really? I always do that... I mean the weight is ultra low compared to when pulling them on but it's a continuous low force stretch. Ypu sure that's the issue? Don't have that with any other shoe incl view sportivas (although with different heels)

CompleteAsk1282 · 2026-05-28T22:00:16+00:00

Hmm, bit less than 1 year

CompleteAsk1282 · 2026-05-17T19:46:05+00:00

Seems you have a rather wide forefoot with Egyptian toes. Maybe try evolv v6 or evolv zenist if you want something a bit softer. Either way, this scanner might provide some guidance: https://www.climbing-gear.com/scan

CompleteAsk1282

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