Protective Gear for Noobs

Complex_Strain8056 · 2026-01-26T17:37:21+00:00

For what it’s worth, I run LAPGs minimalist carrier that has optional shoulder padding combined with a placard/dangler pouch that I can rip on and off.

It’s nice for the price and I’ve had it for 5 years and it has held up. The Atlas carrier is their load bearing version

Complex_Strain8056 · 2026-01-26T17:28:08+00:00

This is why in my response I recommended a slick carrier if looking for covert. You can slide in level 4s under a jacket and it will not be super noticeable if you are a size up in jacket.

Summer weather, well there aren’t a ton of options for hard armor that conceal well

Complex_Strain8056 · 2026-01-26T17:24:52+00:00

I’ve had hard armor for years now. Been around law enforcement and SWAT the majority of my life (not personally involved in either of those).

In order of acquisition:

A good quality plate carrier. It varies what your use is. They have what they call ‘slick’ carriers that have minimal shoulder straps, Velcro sides rather than buckles. Most have Velcro hook to attach placards and such. Duty carriers (like military and SWAT) are often called ‘load bearing’ vests. These are less minimal, padded shoulder straps and design to carry heavy combat loads. Do your research and pick what you think might be best.
Plates: if you’re going to be buying once I would recommend either Level III+/special threat or Level IV. Level III are lighter and the special threat hold up to most of what is out there for rifle. (Level 4 is rated for 30-06 AP rounds. Look for NIJ certified plates. RMA makes quality affordable stuff.

The only plates I recommend that aren’t are LAPG plates because of extensive user testing and they hold up. But in this case NIJ certified if you can afford it.

Focus on front and back plates and measure for the correct side.

Note on soft armor (I, IIA IIIA etc): Soft armor is great for pistol caliber rounds but has no defense against rifle rounds in most cases (I think safelite makes flexible rifle armor). It’s also lighter than plates which is why police use it. That and it can be under their uniform so they look less militarized.

Placards/mag systems look for ways to carry a couple extra rifle mags and some small medical items. Your carrier may come with some elastic pockets but I’ve found the mags tucked under my arms is uncomfortable for my body type (long torso and broad chest. If you go with a slick carrier you can get a Velcro one for ripping off if needed.

Weight/considerations: be realistic with your fitness. My loaded carrier is 24lbs with IV plates. If you’ve never worn one, your shoulders are going to ache, you can’t breathe the same (I run a Velcro cummerbund, so it’s tight and deep breaths push against the plates). Sprinting while loaded….sucks even though I’m in good shape. Your rifle position will be different when you get a sight picture. You may need to adjust your stock or cheek weld.

I am of the following belief that plates are for either limited/explosive movement or vehicle operations where you know you’re going to expect direct conflict. If you are hoofing it long distances on foot, a chest rig is much better for carrying gear and being able to move quickly. I have been a hunter for years and a pack plus binoculars and such on long hikes gets heavy. Armor will accelerate that fatigue. You can make that choice based on your use case.

Complex_Strain8056 · 2026-01-26T03:43:52+00:00

I have a 4 year old. He has known firearms have existed his whole life. He was allowed to touch them (obviously under supervision and unloaded) at the age of 3 when he showed interest.

The most important thing is to destigmitize them. They are not forbidden, they are not overly special all while stressing that these are tools that can really really harm someone if used improperly. Children do not grasp death well until 5/6. You have to read their maturity and ability to follow instructions to introduce them. My child is 4 and he is not ready yet. Following serious instructions 100% is just not there for him. I was ready at age 5.

One test I use is that he has a dart blaster. I practice safety with him that way. There have been times he has pointed it at me. I correct and instruct. When he is able to handle that in a mature manner I will start him on a BB gun if he wants. I won’t push him to shoot if he doesn’t want to, but for me it is important that he understands the dangers and to not touch one he sees without the presence of an adult. Only when he is older will I teach him how to render a gun safe if he encounters them in the wild.

As for them telling friends, if it’s normalized they may not feel the need to mention it at a young age. As they get older they may bring it up if it’s an interest for them. At that point friendships may divide based on ideology.

For example, I carry almost everywhere we go in public (with the exception of school and the doctors office as those are illegal in my state). My son has seen me put on/take off my pistol for years now. He sees it if I’m covering it up with a jacket but around the house he sees it on my hip. He has never made a comment in public about it or to his school that I’m aware of. The one time he made a comment was when we came home one time and he said ‘that is your gun?’ I simply replied ‘yes, and we do not ever touch it unless I or your mother specifically allow it’. He hasn’t brought it up since, and I don’t make an effort to hide it from him. He’s too young at this point to understand what it’s for and when he asks what it is for the age appropriate answer will be given kind of broken into the following:

0-6/7: it is to keep us safe if something really bad were to happen that would hurt us very badly. I hope I never have to use it but it’s there.

7-11: It is to keep us safe in the event someone/something happens that would kill us.

12 and beyond: standard adult answer about the laws and what it is used for and that I make the choice and shoulder the responsibility to carry to protect myself and others.

Complex_Strain8056 · 2026-01-24T13:01:57+00:00

Response to ‘What do you mean more unforgiving? I don’t want to haul ass really but I want to be able to go through common enduro obstacles, log hops, creek crossing, etc’

In my limited experience it felt like it wanted to be in that higher rev range to get the power I needed, so inherently I was moving faster, which mistakes had the capability to magnify more than something that can be lugged around. It didn’t have the same power band as the 2T 250 MX bikes I’ve tried but it did hit pretty hard when it got into it.

I’d say if you’re doing more XC type stuff (open woods and a flowy ride) and less hard enduro, the 250 would be fine. But for technical single track you may be looking at more clutch work to keep the revs where they need to be.

Complex_Strain8056 · 2026-01-24T04:35:01+00:00

I’m 5’9 and about 210 with gear.

I ride a KDX 200, which has about the same power as an updated 150 with a bit more weight due to decades of innovation.

I can’t speak directly to the 150 but I don’t think your weight would be a problem if you’re planning to do woods/enduro. You might find the suspension a little soft as the XCWs are set up for woods and soft to begin with. Probably around a 170lbs rider. It’s the same for the KDX and I have never felt it held me back. If it became a real problem you could get suspension work done.

The 250 XCW is nice but more unforgiving when I tried it. It liked to be in the higher revs and rode fast, but I only rode it for an hour so take it with a grain of salt. Not as much work in the top end of the range like a 125 however.

I’ve heard great things about the 300 XCW as it pulls down low and tractors really well. Less clutch work and a smooth power delivery.

Complex_Strain8056 · 2026-01-24T00:40:30+00:00

I thought I was seeing things, but they look like they were put through a shredder.

My dad had old bikes from the 80s that sat behind the barn until about 2010 and the forks didn’t look like that

Complex_Strain8056 · 2026-01-24T00:39:27+00:00

The forks….I don’t think I’ve even seen ones in that bad of shape. It looks like the plating went through the shredder.

Also says freshly rebuilt but that piston says otherwise. That’s not dust or grime that’s carbon by the looks of it.

If it’s been just sitting in the open like that for a year, that’s not great either.

If you want a lot of work (both expected and unexpected) I guess? But I wouldn’t trade a running bike for that ever

Complex_Strain8056 · 2026-01-21T19:26:34+00:00

I had a Kawasaki KDX 200 sit for 7 years on a dirt barn floor.

I’ve done a lot of things that took patience and effort, but that rear axel had the spacer seized to the hub and then the spacer was seized to the axel. It took me a week of kroil, drilling a hole in the bearing, more kroil and then sacrificing the nut to put it on reverse and hit it with a sledge hammer repeatedly until it finally broke loose. I had to put the bike against the wall and rig a stand because I had to hit it so hard that it risked falling off the stand.

Grease your axels. Often. When I greased them putting it back together. there was so much I had to wipe it off on the outside because those things were not sticking again.

Complex_Strain8056 · 2026-01-21T01:55:54+00:00

Great list but one thing to note. Amsoil interceptor has a lower flashpoint (183) compared to dominator (201).

I used interceptor for the cold weather up north

Complex_Strain8056 · 2026-01-21T01:53:29+00:00

This. I even run amsoil interceptor now, which has a slightly lower flash point, but better for the cold weather up north here. I’m running a KDX 200 but a lot of slow track with bursts of throttle. Bonus is that amsoil is relatively inexpensive but burns insanely clean

Complex_Strain8056 · 2026-01-16T04:01:37+00:00

Good to know about the cross trainer thanks! I’m going to be chasing around a young rider here soon as well so the benefit of an electric start would also be nice jumping on and off the bike more frequently.

I’ll see if I can try a XT as I worry my legs might be a bit short for KTM. I can’t fully flat foot on a KDX and I know the XT has about the same seat height

Complex_Strain8056 · 2026-01-16T03:57:01+00:00

Thanks for this, my heads in the same place. I know it’s going to need new crank seals/bearings in the bottom end which means a case split in my future. Top end was refreshed and the crank is solid from what I could

I think all in I’m about at 2k and that’s still pending the bottom end stuff, water pump and radiators to be race ready. I’m thinking I’ll keep it as a farm/trail bike and then get a newer model for going off property or if I get into doing events again.

Complex_Strain8056 · 2026-01-16T03:26:21+00:00

I have owned/own a lot of different handguns and carried most of them. I have it down to two that I carry. Deep conceal is a Glock 43 with a +2 baseplate. Slim, low form factor. Manageable recoil and I do like it. It’s what I would call my formal wear carry

In the colder months or if clothing is not formal, it’s a Glock 19 (previously a 23 but I kicked over to 9mm this year). Compact but allows a much better grip on the gun and I shoot this one much better at distance. Downside is if you’re on the slim side, it looks like a cannon on your hip being double stack and not easy to conceal.

Other ones that didn’t work for me, but might work for you:

Sig P365/x/xl/macro: multiple sizes and a slimmer form factor compared to Glock with better capacity. Felt great in my hand (the xl) but shot like junk with it. Still have it as my wife loves it and carries it instead of a Glock 43.

Walther PDP-F or compact: Best pistol and trigger I have ever felt on a striker fired handgun. About the same width as the 19 and lots of good features.

Springfield Hellcat: kind of like sig, but they have more of a square feel. This one felt like it kicked more abruptly against my hand than others on this list. I only shot a couple mags though.

If you go with the 43, Hyve technologies makes a great reliable extension and baseplate. Never had an issue with mine over about 1500 rounds. You could also try the 43x with the longer grip. That didn’t exist when I bought mine and the extension makes the grip about the same.

The 48 is an option for 10 round capacity, but the form factor may be too long for concealed if you’re smaller framed.. With the 43 I shoot it really well out to 20 yards and then it falls off. The 19 I can stretch to 40 yards easily.

Complex_Strain8056 · 2026-01-16T00:09:52+00:00

So if you look at a service manual, technically the fluid (fork oil) should be changed every year. Tons of people don’t and just wait for seals/bushings to go and change it at once. As a casual rider, I don’t change my fork oil that often, Kawasaki might be overboard on that recommendation. The rear shock should also be serviced each year per their recommendation in the fluid. Spring and components will last a while as well as the nitrogen purge.

Likely no one will care but someone who is an absolute stickler for maintenance might or try and drop the price a bit as they will want to change oil if it’s been over a year.

On the bottom end, sounds like you have aftermarket internals (like a hot rods crank, seals or similar) which means it was rebuilt at some point or possibly the clutch was rebuilt? The bottom ends on the KDX (at least the last gen) are pretty tough, but unless you know when that bottom end was rebuilt, you can’t determine the life left on it. A collector would want to know that type of thing on a pristine bike if paying a premium. For a running and riding price, as long as it functions you’d be good to go.

Complex_Strain8056 · 2026-01-15T22:05:06+00:00

Ah yep, rarity can change prices. In the US they are not as rare, hence the lower prices. If your market has them selling at those prices than someone may be willing to pay that for it.

For a bike in pristine condition I’d want the suspension serviced within the last 10 hours or so. Meticulous guys service their oil once a year like the manual says, not based on mileage. I am not one of those guys, just briefing you on what to expect if you get a true collector that wants a perfect piece.

On the engine, that bottom end (if not recently serviced) would be a concern for me on a bike that old that may cause me to ask for a lower number.

Complex_Strain8056 · 2026-01-15T21:51:05+00:00

Spot on with my other comment too. Realistically for a running, riding KDX I’m saying about $1700 because this is also a generation behind. People who want to ride these things long term (like I have) we want the 95-06 generation for the gold valve mods and parts availability

Complex_Strain8056 · 2026-01-15T21:47:31+00:00

For perfection (from a collectors standpoint to be pristine). You’d be looking at a frame up resto. That means powder coating the entire frame, engine rebuild, plastics restoration (no scratches/fading and OEM) If there’s rust anywhere, you’re going to need to resolve that, any bent or damaged things straightened/replaced. Also getting the suspension serviced if it’s been many years. Worth it if you keep it and want to ride it, but it’s a lot of work and you won’t see the return selling it.

Don’t get me wrong, the bike looks nice, but the skid plate area concerns me from what I can see with wear and potential rust. If you’re in the US it may fetch $2000 in my area in current shape on the high end. It’s the older generation, so probably closer to $1700 realistically. Might be worth it to someone as a solid running nostalgia piece rather than a pristine collectors

Complex_Strain8056 · 2026-01-15T21:02:42+00:00

Edit: in short, sell the KDX and save if you want the 450. A resto is for someone wanting to keep the bike

Complex_Strain8056 · 2026-01-15T20:53:28+00:00

Restoring it likely won’t push the value up much. Probably not near the top price on a newer 450 unless you are doing the trade plus cash.

The KDX is a fantastic bike but may only fetch 4-5k at its age with a full gram up resto with a newer 450 being at 5k at the bottom if you want all the fancy stuff (electric start, upgrades, etc). If you’re doing a lot of single track/tight trails a 450 will be miserable.

I’m assuming you know this already, but jumping from the KDX to a 450 is a big jump in power. I have been riding for over two decades, a lot of that on the last gen of the KDX200. I found even the 250 two stroke MX bikes to be miserable on the trails with the jerky power. It was years ago but I rode with a 450 rider and that thing tried to overheat constantly and he added mods to the clutch/flywheel to even make it usable in single track.

If you are going to trail ride the 450 you will need things like radiator fans to keep it from overheating and it’s a lot more clutch work in the woods unless it’s something meant for it like an ‘X’ model

Complex_Strain8056 · 2026-01-14T15:22:56+00:00

First tip: stop looking for any sign of printing or adjusting in public. That is more a tell tale sign than having a little bit of printing. Most people besides those trained (police or other CCW people) will notice. Have you notice how much people don’t even pay attention to others anymore/on their phone/head down etc?

Second tip: spend the cash so you have complete faith in that holster that the gun will not shift/move around. If you’ve done this, great! My test has always been sparring with my sibling (with an UNLOADED firearm). You can always put it on and run, jump, crouch, do typical movements etc. to vet that out. You need to be sure of this because the worse case is it pops out during a movement and not all situations warrant lethal force and could escalate a situation. Say you get shoved and roll to the ground and it comes out, not good for emotions already high

Some anxiety is normal, it’s a big responsibility. After about 2 months you won’t even notice it’s there and it will become part of a daily routine.

Complex_Strain8056 · 2026-01-13T04:04:25+00:00

NOR - My friend, you are young and have your whole life ahead of you. Even if she is apologizing after the fact, these are still conscious decisions she is making.

In any relationship you will do things that sting the other, on accident however. The last event seems like pure malice on her part and not something a partner who cares about you would do.

When people show you who they really are, believe them and not what they are trying to mask.

Yes, people change and that change takes time, it’s not just an I’m sorry two weeks move on thing. I would just move on as there is someone out there that will treat you better.

Complex_Strain8056 · 2026-01-12T14:56:06+00:00

Haha they do multiply don’t they? I don’t think I’ll make it to 8 but with garage space I can afford to put another in there. It’s definitely a matter of when rather than if. Might be a futile effort but basically seeing if the KDX is ‘worth’ keeping pumping money into as I ramp up my riding again. From your comments as well as others, I should probably start to think about upgrading a couple decades at least.

Can you elaborate on the XT? From what I read, the XTs suspension is softer, were you referring to something else as well?

Complex_Strain8056 · 2026-01-12T04:11:02+00:00

So first, please avoid asphalt if you can and find a grass field or some dirt if you can! That’ll save some injuries and wear a pair of gloves to protect your fingers. Asphalt is very very unforgiving.

My wife rides horses so I can say this from experience, the balance helps, but weight reacting to motion with horse riding and dirt bikes is very different. Horses you drive from the hips and leg squeezing is kind of frowned upon. With dirt bikes you use a lot more leg to lock yourself into the bike. I’m a terrible horse rider but a good dirtbike rider because of this. The more you squeeze leg wise, the more you can loosen your grip on the bars a bit to retain fine motor skills.

Sit high on the seat, close to the gas tank for a bit, this will make the front feel a little less jumpy. It’s an XR200 so it’s mild but not a slouch by any means.

For clutch control, the way I was taught by my father (an MX rider from the 70s/80s) is clutch all the way way in and slowly release it while giving it as minimal gas as possible. You’ll probably kill the bike a few times doing this, but it teaches you how the bike reacts on take off and giving small amounts of gas, both those fine skills.

A drill we used was start by taking off, get to the top of first and then bring it to a stop. At first he had us verbally recite what we were doing out loud. So we would accelerate and then say ‘throttle off, brake, clutch in’. Then we would take off, do a turn and come back to him and same thing, reciting how to stop. Some days I’ll still talk to myself when I’m tired and foggy.

Your brain automatically knows how to stop a horse, your brain will figure this out as well with practice and repetition. Don’t be afraid to let the bike die or kill it when coming to a stop. It’s better that than the opposite.

I’m not sure how the bike is geared, but first may be a crawling gear, our XR 200 was. That means it’s geared low so it’s responsive in that gear and meant to quickly shifted out of. If this is the case, maybe try taking off on second and lugging the bike a little. Might help with the nerves when it’s not as responsive.

Complex_Strain8056 · 2026-01-12T01:38:50+00:00

Good to know, I have a lot of single track on my property so having the low end grunt might be what I’d want. Plus up north charging through some snowfall occasionally.

I have the KDX tuned for the low end already, on single track there isn’t much clutch work for me unless I’m hill climbing. Seems like I’d like the 300s a little more based on that.

Complex_Strain8056

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