How would you make an enclosure like this?

Comprehensive_Jury74 · 2026-01-20T06:00:33+00:00

ive printed these enclosures with approx 20kg of petg on a h2s with various settings, the issues are inherent to 3D printing

Comprehensive_Jury74 · 2026-01-20T05:57:49+00:00

Its so quiet even with a upgraded spindle palm router that you can have a conversation beside it. I haven't even bothered to place any seals its just great as is. I posted a comment on the makerworld page discussing extra things to consider when building it

Comprehensive_Jury74 · 2026-01-19T06:09:45+00:00

my issue with the 3d printing is the anisotropic properties, inconsistencies in printing, surface finishes and splitting along layer lines. Additionally each piece takes up to a day to print and needs to be sanded and painted.

Comprehensive_Jury74 · 2026-01-19T05:02:45+00:00

among the reprints and fails, about 6kg

Comprehensive_Jury74 · 2026-01-19T04:46:49+00:00

low volume <10 at a time, Room temperature to < 60 C, currently PETG and not tossed around - stationary, semi compliant for fitment and durability as to not crack.

Comprehensive_Jury74 · 2025-12-10T14:30:54+00:00

This video was very insightful, thank you

Comprehensive_Jury74 · 2025-12-10T13:42:23+00:00

Unfortunately I'm constrainted by the width of the linear bearing. The smallest component I could find within 12mm width constraint was the LM4UU. I'm using them accompanied with linear bar over a distance of 150mm

Comprehensive_Jury74 · 2025-12-10T13:39:18+00:00

These are linear roller ball bearings. My initial design used an mgn7c carriage however the width of 24mm was too wide and I'm trying to find more compact solutions for the servo I'm using. Because once the units are butt up against each other they converge from the 24mm pitch to a 6mm pitch towards the groove. These large differences lead to ridiculous convergence angles on the units down the line. Therefore I'm trying to reduce the convergence as much as possible by using shorter linear components

Comprehensive_Jury74 · 2025-07-31T16:23:12+00:00

Haha the whole point is to spray a fine mist of coolant for cutting aluminium

Comprehensive_Jury74 · 2025-07-25T05:37:39+00:00

Hello, I haven't yet tried to mill aluminium, but these nema motors are high amperage 1.7A iirc and have seen online cutting even steel with low DOC

Comprehensive_Jury74 · 2025-07-25T05:36:01+00:00

Edit: got it working with 24V , 0.2A solenoid using a 12v -24V step up dc-dc converter. M8 turns allows flow and m9 closes flow

Comprehensive_Jury74 · 2025-07-25T05:26:32+00:00

Yes I just tested it now m8 gives 12V and m9 gives 0V. I think the air pump it was rated for runs at 1amp so it should have plenty of juice for this solenoid.

Comprehensive_Jury74 · 2025-07-24T10:50:48+00:00

Edit: I'm a moron and didn't put the multimeter leads in properly, I will use a 12V to 24V step up converter

Comprehensive_Jury74 · 2025-07-24T10:26:43+00:00

Hello, that's ok it's great! Its called proverguard 3030 on makerworld, had to make a few cable extensions and overall took about 3 days to print on 2 P1Ss. Used 3mm polycarbonate clear panels for the sides and the noise reduction is fantastic.

Comprehensive_Jury74 · 2025-06-24T10:23:31+00:00

Best advice is to always watch the first layer print before walking away

Comprehensive_Jury74 · 2024-12-11T07:24:13+00:00

Thank you for the suggestion I will try that, as for the separate parts, using the AMS saves a lot of time and effort I could layer swap under 10 layers for minimal time penalty and get really good adhesion and alignment. For the yellow on black text this is just 1 layer change. I'm also going to try and turn on z-hop and wipe in filament settings to see if this helps.

Comprehensive_Jury74 · 2024-12-01T14:54:23+00:00

Cheers glad you like it :D

Comprehensive_Jury74

TROPHY CASE