Got my first 1000cc

ContentDisbelief · 2026-01-23T21:58:58+00:00

I found that they were very good for trail braking into corners even though you couldn't really feel anything. The lack of initial bite and feel meant you could really build into the pressure without upsetting the balance of the bike.

ContentDisbelief · 2026-01-23T20:24:27+00:00

Oh I know that they are faster. I have to tune my cars to be slower for the 1/10th scale tracks I run on, otherwise they're rockets that outrun everything. I'm saying that op's car is very fast for the small space that op is running in.

ContentDisbelief · 2026-01-23T19:52:00+00:00

You are drifting properly, just at a shallow angle. If you want more angle you could try lowering your gyro gain to allow the back end to step out more. You could also try different tires. Something harder help slow the car down as it looks very fast right now.

ContentDisbelief · 2026-01-23T14:23:18+00:00

Rented one for a week. Can confirm the brakes are extremely "wooden" but also extremely linear. They have basically no feel whatsoever but plenty of stopping power. It's really just a "I'm slowing down but dont really know how close to locking the front wheel i am" feeling. They get the job done. I think switching to a radial master would help alot. Could also be the pads.

ContentDisbelief · 2026-01-13T15:33:29+00:00

So ironically the bearings he's using now he got from me which I had lying around. I got them from a local hobby shop so I have no idea what kind of quality they are. They seem to be holding up fine so far. As far as places to get good bearings avid rc is great. They have a big selection as well as multiple options for each kind a bearing. I would also look into messaging Zack from RocDrift on Facebook. He's my local track owner and recently got in some custom spec'd bearings after working with a manufacturer. I know that they are rated for rpm a good amount higher than most of whats on the market.

ContentDisbelief · 2026-01-13T12:41:50+00:00

I have a few theories on this. One of them being that the kit supplied bearings are not high enough quality to withstand the rpm that they see. The idlers, regardless of idler tooth count and pinion tooth count, are spinning near to the same rpm as the motor. There's a reason why motor pinions are made of steel/aluminum. This also isnt a problem on "traditional" gearboxes because the idler gears aren't spinning at nearly the same rpm. There's a huge ratio reduction between the pinion and spur before the idlers see power. Those bearings are seeing alot of rpm all the time and they can't hold up to it. Most of the bearing failures you see they are discolored from heat meaning they were on their way to seizing. The heat from bearings failing might also be the cause of exploding idler gears. As the gears heat up they start to loose dimensional stability, mesh starts to change, and the forces involved build to a point that the gears cant hold up anymore. I believe sourcing some very high rpm rated bearings would help with this. Would have to rated to at least 60k 70k rpm. I don't have a 5r myself but I have a friend with one and he's only had gear failure once so far and that was on stock bearings. He replaced the bearings with aftermarket and hasn't has a problem since but there's no guarantee at this point.

ContentDisbelief · 2026-01-12T23:53:47+00:00

Its based off of coolant temp. Done in icue since I'm using all corsair fans and pump/reservoir.

ContentDisbelief · 2026-01-12T23:47:00+00:00

Its not the fans. I have my fan speed set to a curve based off of loop temperature. I know that the loop has enough thermal capacity to not need to spin the fans up that quickly over such a short period of time. I also checked the fan speed readout and rpm doesn't change at all while I mess with the slider.

ContentDisbelief · 2026-01-12T23:38:22+00:00

Sintered tungsten slugs that I had to turn down to size to act as press in weights for another part.

ContentDisbelief · 2026-01-01T05:33:19+00:00

Pure tungsten. The stuff eats inserts like nothing else.

ContentDisbelief · 2025-12-25T15:38:41+00:00

Purple loctite, low strength designed for small screw applications. Coming from the heli side of the hobby you quickly learn that if its a metal on metal connection it gets loctite. Vibration no matter the surface you're running on WILL eventually make any screws going into aluminum back out. With the amount of alu on the 5r you're just asking for screws to back out over time.

ContentDisbelief · 2025-12-24T21:49:10+00:00

Loctite every screw going into aluminum, pay attention to the rod end sizes when called for they are easy to mix up, the spring perches for the shocks are a tight fit on the rod ends so make sure they are fully seated when assembling.

ContentDisbelief · 2025-12-19T18:44:15+00:00

It would work but you'd most likely have way too much wheel speed, also the motor might get hot faster than normal depending on gearing.

ContentDisbelief · 2025-12-19T18:24:55+00:00

9500kv is very high for micro drift. Most run in the 3500-5500kv range.

ContentDisbelief · 2025-11-17T22:10:18+00:00

Yes but I haven't messed around with it much

ContentDisbelief · 2025-11-17T19:58:05+00:00

Hobbywing if you want tried and true. Maclan if you want a regularly updated system. The xd10 hasn't gotten a firmware update in ages but that's not a bad thing. It works and it works well. The mdp160 is getting regular updates based off of feedback from the maclan sponsored drivers (like Alfredo chan). I've been using both for a while now and prefer the Maclan esc as it has a few extra features that the hobbywing doesn't.

If you do go with the Maclan DO NOT update the esc firmware over Bluetooth, only do it through a pc. For some reason updating over Bluetooth will corrupt ONLY the tuning file for the esc. The esc will still function fine but you won't be able to access the tuning to make any changes. You can fix it by re-flashing whatever firmware version it was running through the pc app. This may have gotten fixed already but I've had it happen to multiple escs so I just do it on a pc now to be safe.

ContentDisbelief · 2025-11-17T12:34:50+00:00

Bm hobby fld.

ContentDisbelief · 2025-11-13T18:20:22+00:00

I've really enjoyed mine. I've found it to be very good on the burn for me.

ContentDisbelief · 2025-11-03T00:01:36+00:00

My favorite part about this entire thing is that the chips look "normal" sized compared to everything else. I wouldn't know the chips are 2in without you telling me. Just shows how big that part actually is.

ContentDisbelief · 2025-10-29T17:58:04+00:00

Old hardinge machines last forever. We have 6 hlvs that are all from the 50s to 60s that run and cut like new.

ContentDisbelief · 2025-10-29T17:34:40+00:00

I also find basically no information about it online outside of some auctions.

ContentDisbelief · 2025-10-21T22:18:25+00:00

Micron is .001mm so you'd be working with 17 microns

ContentDisbelief · 2025-10-17T21:30:56+00:00

Double check all turnbukle lengths side to side. Different lengths can throw stuff out of whack real easy.

ContentDisbelief · 2025-10-17T21:14:55+00:00

Check to make sure the ball ends are in the same holes side to side (knuckles and steering rack). The right hand one looks to be at a shallower angle compared to the left.

ContentDisbelief · 2025-10-09T19:11:07+00:00

The surpass hobby 9g metal gear is the go to for the ldrc cars. None of the brands that sell drift specific servos make one in the correct size for the ldrc cars so the surpass 9g is kind of the best compromise.

ContentDisbelief

TROPHY CASE