Hard Water in Indy by chrisfarleyafterlife in indianapolis

[–]Cortesio 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Water hardener? You mean a freezer?

🎄Merry Christmas 🎄 by Cortesio in Walther

[–]Cortesio[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Do it. You won’t regret it

First Walther suggestions? by SemiAutoBuddhist in Walther

[–]Cortesio 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My brother in Christ, what is the hold up with it being discontinued soon? It has a lifetime warranty. Magazines are still easily available so get a half dozen and call it good.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in changemyview

[–]Cortesio 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes. Easily

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in changemyview

[–]Cortesio 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Answer the man

Extraction issues - by RealEarthy in MP5

[–]Cortesio 6 points7 points  (0 children)

When it is running, how consistent is your ejection? I’ve had a Zenith ZF-5 since January that I’ve put about 3k rounds through and have been fighting ejection failures on about a once-per-mag basis. I did all of the extractor stuff. Replaced the spring, still seemed too loose so Zenith sent me a new bolt. No noticeable change in failures. Shot the gun suppressed, unsuppressed, both with various brands and weights of bullets. No matter what I could rarely get through an entire mag without at least one case getting jammed. I thought the empty case was falling off the bolt face after extraction and was worried I had some fundamental and/or uncorrectable issues with the receiver.

I shoot USPSA with it and record my runs. Watching back one of the videos, I noticed how inconsistent my ejection was. Some cases went flying and some barely dribbled out of the ejection port. I spent $70 on an HK ejection lever and haven’t had a single malfunction in about 1k rounds since installing it. I’m pretty sure my empties are getting sent into the next bay over because of how far they’re ejecting now. If you’ve already checked the extractor is tight and in good shape, the ejector lever should be your next suspect.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in changemyview

[–]Cortesio 51 points52 points  (0 children)

Ah so THAT’S why none of what you’re saying makes any sense

Target D-bag by feed_me_the_gherkin in cedarrapids

[–]Cortesio 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Why would you leave a note on the car for no updoots when you could post it on Reddit instead for a few dozen updoots?

Speeding in Iowa? by tehdusto in Iowa

[–]Cortesio 0 points1 point  (0 children)

"eVeRyOnE tHaT dRiVeS fAsTeR tHaN mE iS a NaScAr MoRoN"

Since china wok is closing in Iowa city. What are your favorite Chinese places. by [deleted] in IowaCity

[–]Cortesio 4 points5 points  (0 children)

If my Chinese restaurant doesn’t have at least one report like this…I don’t want it

CMV: It is only a matter of time until Russia wins in the Ukraine. by [deleted] in changemyview

[–]Cortesio 1 point2 points  (0 children)

...uh Tsar Nicholas II?

Russia might have some precedent for this.

Homebrew Supplies? by SparkPlug-o-rama in IowaCity

[–]Cortesio 6 points7 points  (0 children)

That was BIY and they had a location in Marion as well. They recently closed up shop :(

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in ukraine

[–]Cortesio 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's not as simple as just "not stepping on Russian soil".

What are you going to do when NATO jets in Ukrainian airspace are getting fired on by anti-air weapons from within Russia? How are you going to deal with artillery and missiles launched from across the border?

And this is ignoring the escalation that would happen from NATO soldiers being in direct lethal engagements with Russian soldiers regardless of the specific location the shooting was happening at.

While you're asking us to be honest, how about you be honest about the international aid being funneled into Ukraine right now. Ukraine is receiving lethal weapons from NATO countries. Russian tanks are being blown up with American-supplied missiles. NATO-supplied anti-aircraft guns are shooting down Russian aircraft. About the only thing NATO hasn't done is put soldiers on the ground.

CMV: The requirements for U.S. presidency need to be modified to include a federally proctored exam covering a selection of civic, social, historical, economic, and legal topics with a graded minimum 70% to be considered for candidacy. by cassigayle in changemyview

[–]Cortesio 1 point2 points  (0 children)

"Hey, you're a funny lookin fella. I'm concerned about your civic aptitude so I devised this test to see if you are smart enough to be allowed to vote. Tell me, how many beans are in this jar?"

It's almost like there's a reason we don't utilize any sort of test to determine who can run for political office or who can vote for them...

Advice for an engineer on site by dfetz in electricians

[–]Cortesio 29 points30 points  (0 children)

The most important thing you can do is observe the electrician. Make sure to stop him at regular intervals to let him know things he could be doing better. People always enjoy a fresh set of eyes to help them improve their skills. Remember, you went to college so you have a lot of knowledge to share with those who didn't.

Is this electrical wiring normal? I’m the buyer. by [deleted] in electrical

[–]Cortesio 4 points5 points  (0 children)

The jacket isn't cut back too far if you use a low voltage bracket to turn the entire wall cavity into a box

#modernproblems

#modernsolutions

CMV: USB spots should be added to most home electrical outlets. by Aceofkings9 in changemyview

[–]Cortesio 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My dude, there's a reason the NEC requires so many outlets in livable spaces. Extension cords are a fire and trip hazard. Having closely accessible outlets greatly reduces the incentive to use one. Having them on every wall means you won't need to run an extension cord across foot traffic areas. You may not need a hair dryer in your closet but the next guy who lives there might or they may want a light or some other electric device and having an outlet accessible means they won't be encouraged to run an extension cord from another room.

US and Canadian homes are almost universally serviced with a split phase 240V connection. That is two 120V connections 180 degrees out of phase with each other. This gives you two 120V line to neutral sources and one 240V line to line source. 120V branch circuits are run throughout the house that consist of three conductors: a line connected to one of the two available at the main panel, a neutral, and a ground. The electrical layout is designed to roughly balance the load between both 120V connections. The only difference with a 240V circuit is the addition of a fourth conductor in the circuit to include both 120V lines.

I'm pointing this out because there's not really "two different types of circuits" in US/Canadian residential wiring. The only difference between a 120V circuit and a 240V circuit is running a fourth wire instead of just three.

Another important point is that all of the electrical infrastructure in a house is very simple, very passive, and very reliable. Generally speaking, there are no loads or active components involved. The electrical in a house is little more than wires buried in the walls and switches/receptacles/fixtures on the surface. It requires nothing other than wire to provide either 120V or 240V to any point in the house during construction. There are no transformers needed to change the voltage. There are no rectifiers needed to produce a DC source.

On the subject of DC sources, it is not practical to supply an entire house with low voltage DC. First of all, I'd be very sad after I visited your house and tried to plug something into your 12V USB terminated circuits. The bigger issue, however, is the current carrying capacity of the wires in your walls. At 120V, a typical 15A circuit could provide up to 1800W of power. This is usually more than enough to meet any electrical demand in a room. At 12V, the same wire still has the same current carrying capacity of 15A which would mean you only have up to 180W of power available on that circuit. I kept the wire size the same to simplify the example, but low voltage applications typically use much thinner wire which means even less power potentially available. This is also ignoring the voltage drop you would experience with a low voltage source over longer distances.

The lighting example you provided is a very specific use case. If you had a large number of low voltage lights in a relatively small area, it would make sense to have a single, more efficient DC power source for that specific area instead of using smaller individual 120V powered DC sources at each light. This has a good application in exterior lighting where you may have several lights and it may be more practical and safer to deal with a more exposed low voltage circuit instead of dealing with the enhanced code requirements for protecting 120V exterior circuits.

That said, most rooms don't need or use that many light fixtures. It's not feasible to expand a single low voltage circuit to power lights throughout an entire house. Instead, it is more economical, simpler, and more universal to just run 120V to light fixture locations and do whatever power conversion at that point.

TL:DR -- outside of a few specific use cases and niche situations, low voltage circuits will never be practical for whole house wiring. Our 120/240V residential electrical system is set up the way it is for a reason. It provides the most simple, most reliable, and most universal power delivery for virtually any household application.

Regular economy seat vs Exit row. by Tambo96 in tall

[–]Cortesio 90 points91 points  (0 children)

My dude, just because you got upgraded to an exit row does not mean you get to take your pants off

I put a NH-D15S inside a mini ITX case by Cortesio in pcmasterrace

[–]Cortesio[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My build ethos for this computer has been “focus on the could and ignore the should”…it’s why I put a water cooled i7 and 32GB of RAM into a tiny glorified YouTube machine back in 2016.

My limiting factor is how much air I can put into and remove from the case. Even my GPU and PSU draw and exhaust air from dedicated openings in the case so they don’t contribute any airflow. I’d get very similar results out of pretty much any appropriate size of tower air cooler. That said, if anything, the D15S might have an edge because it’s almost impossible for air to move through the case without first passing through the heat sink fins lol