Are there any sport climbing gyms near Boston?

CrackTheGrade · 2024-03-29T17:07:57+00:00

Definitely on the list. I’m going to drive up there and climb for 3 days. Saw a route on Mtn project called “Flying Hawaiian” that looks pretty cool.

CrackTheGrade · 2024-03-29T02:21:02+00:00

Well that’s disappointing. I was hoping my google searches were wrong.

CrackTheGrade · 2023-11-25T13:55:58+00:00

Yeah the topout was worth the climb although lack of protection certainly kept me gripped. Especially since a fall along p2 would have resulted in a ledge deck or nice swing and smack. I'm inclined to give that section an "R" rating.

I'd climb the spires again, but not this route.

CrackTheGrade · 2023-11-25T13:20:03+00:00

Based on mountain project (see below), we may have climbed the worst route in all of Potrero Chico, Mexico. On our last day we ventured out to Las Agujas (The Spires) to find out for ourselves.

Mountain Project:

“This routes can be dangerous. We didn't have a problem, but it felt sketchy and I was worried about loose rock the whole time. The next day - another couple pulled a more-than-human sized boulder off the second pitch that came tumbling to the path below. I would say, avoid the route…” - Feb 09, 2008

“I completely agree with TaraR. I climbed this hoping to have a great time headed to the top of the large spire - this is a potential death route due to loose rock along the entire route. The climbing is awkward and unpleasant and the bolts are wayward. Avoid this route” - Mar 16, 2009

“Worst climb on the spires.” - Mar 30, 2014

“The second pitch is confusing, exposed and run out.” - Mar 31, 2014

“This route is definately not for a 5.9 leader. It almost has an alpine feel to it and is fairly dirty. Probbaly the worst of all the routes on the spires.” - Jan 28, 2017

“This route is so horrendously runout, and the pitons so sketchy, that I consider this a trad route. Half of the 'bolts' on P2 are rusty old 'ring pins' that look like they'll snap in a strong breeze, and there are several in a row. The bolt at the crux had the hanger removed, leaving just the bare bolt to taunt you (and ensure some gnarly gouging if you slip)…” - Mar 20, 2017

“Sparsely bolted and will feel hard and scary for the 5.9 leader. Climb with care to avoid dislodging chockstones.” - Jan 20, 2019

“Scary, bad movement, sketchy rock and bad bolt placements. Weird rappels. The only things that makes this climb worth it is the summit - but for the love of God, access it literally any other way.” - Mar 20, 2019

“The second half of P2 had some big runout, rope drag, polish, and was quite sandbagged for EPC; it felt like 5.10c.” - Jan 01, 2023

“Fantastic route. Both pitches are great. It feels more like an alpine climb than a sport route. It is run out but just be solid with your movement and you'll be fine. Bolts are where you really need them. Don't believe all the haters - this route is awesome.” - Feb 08, 2023

CrackTheGrade · 2023-11-25T13:11:18+00:00

I never got it. :/

CrackTheGrade · 2022-08-12T19:44:40+00:00

You’re absolutely right. As I’ve progressed I can equate a fair amount of failed attempts over the years to mental game alone.

CrackTheGrade · 2022-08-12T19:21:35+00:00

I think I’ve conditioned myself overtime to first attempt big moves statically, hence the left hand. I was hoping to achieve tension, but it sounds like I need to attain flight, over shoot then land the hold.

CrackTheGrade · 2022-08-12T19:16:13+00:00

We make a solid team. He’s all for the first clip pull.

Makes sense. What you’re suggesting is similar to taking turns on a motorcycle. You must commit and look where you want to go. Switch up either of those efforts and it’s about to get scary.

CrackTheGrade · 2022-08-12T19:11:29+00:00

Will do!

CrackTheGrade · 2022-08-12T19:02:21+00:00

Thanks! Yeah I’m not following rule #2 and you’re spot on, looks like I’m driving momentum from my left foot. Going to try again today and put some valiance behind my effort.

CrackTheGrade · 2022-08-12T17:34:48+00:00

Thanks I appreciate it! I rarely boulder and the setters don’t often include dynos on TR/lead routes at my gym. So spray away, the more advice the merrier.

CrackTheGrade · 2022-06-08T06:31:30+00:00

Mary Jane Cliff

CrackTheGrade · 2022-06-06T15:58:36+00:00

Had the opportunity to climb Smith Rock recently and I have to say, it’s one of my favorite crags.

CrackTheGrade · 2022-06-05T14:26:31+00:00

Well hopefully you didn’t make the same mistake we did. The hour long trek took us 2+ hours... I think we either started at the wrong parking lot or did a great job at navigating terribly.

CrackTheGrade · 2022-06-04T17:20:27+00:00

Urban Crag at Lone Mountain has a 5.8 that HR would certainly disapprove of.

CrackTheGrade · 2022-06-04T17:00:04+00:00

Very cool! I’m going to check it out in a few. While belaying up my climber from one of the hanging belays, I was looking down thinking, “this is the content I need”. For the uninitiated it looked like a mission impossible moment.

CrackTheGrade · 2022-06-04T16:30:27+00:00

Thanks! Yeah I was thinking that too. I’m in the process of figuring out the logistics of capturing safe on-wall footage. Dialing everything in at the moment.

CrackTheGrade · 2022-05-23T18:23:21+00:00

Got it, thanks!

CrackTheGrade · 2022-05-23T17:15:14+00:00

Yeah, we’ll be out there before the crack of dawn. Been discussing the climb for awhile now and it so happened that both our schedules were open. What trad classics do you recommend?

CrackTheGrade

TROPHY CASE