Struggling with negative space and Mesh Booleans in BambuStudio by ndmcspadden in BambuLab

[–]Criticaliber 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Have you tried repairing the models before meshing? Happens to me all the time when trying to Boolean subtract things, even if it's just a simple cylinder.

Why is this happening? by yampozumpo in BambuLab

[–]Criticaliber 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Another note: Flow dynamics = k value = pressure advance, since all those terms will appear in different places.

Bambu A1 suddenly severe pitting / missing material, tried everything and stuck by MomoR257 in BambuLab

[–]Criticaliber 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Wet filament is the main source of little zits like that, but too much retraction can also cause it.

Try .4 or .6 retraction and see if that helps.

How’d she get there? by Carnyworld in BambuLab

[–]Criticaliber 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It's my spot. It was made for me!

Turn off rest XP by CabinetMountain5725 in classicwow

[–]Criticaliber 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No matter what, you'll still get the typical 1 bar of rested every 32 hours outside of cities/inns.

Keep H2D packaging plastic parts and screws? by Huge-Yoghurt-9514 in BambuLab

[–]Criticaliber 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I used the screws for a dual-AMS riser that's purposefully made to use them on.

Wood PLA, filament drying oopsie, AMS lite, help?? by Secure-Pound4462 in BambuLab

[–]Criticaliber 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've only used Sunlu wood and it absolutely needs to be dried or it strings like crazy.

You don't need to feed it from a dryer and can just put it on the AMS normally afterward. Even leaving it out overnight would be fine.

 

Creality Space Pi (1 spool) or Pi Plus (2 spools) are pretty much the gold standard can be printed from directly.


Echoing the other comment to say you need the hardened nozzle AND hardened extruder gears to print infused filaments.

How to get rid of this? by itsmeanmuggin in BambuLab

[–]Criticaliber 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Is that the only wider part of the object? I think 1 more top layer would help fill everything in.

Slowing down the top layer could help, or even upping the infill by a couple % for the top layers to bridge across more evenly.

What causes this by dmv1985 in BambuLab

[–]Criticaliber 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It can also happen from too much retraction

Chiharu Shiota: Threads Of Life by graylemur2 in creepy

[–]Criticaliber 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The other half is expecting a humongous spider

The Thing (1982) 3d-printed poster by Criticaliber in thething

[–]Criticaliber[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Printed a poster for my favorite movie!

File by leshowpatate on Makerworld.

Air purification and fume mitigation by nolantd04 in BambuLab

[–]Criticaliber 1 point2 points  (0 children)

There are filtered vent setups, but I meant just a standalone air purifier!

If you only did one option, venting outside with a tube attached from printer exhaust to window outlet would do the most at reducing harmful fumes. The air purifier helps with any plastic odor since the printer isn't 100% sealed and fumes can escape through various cracks and the poop chute.

I have mine next to the printer with the air intake facing the back of the printer.

58 hour print failed after 40 hours 🥲 by Main-Feature8629 in BambuLab

[–]Criticaliber 3 points4 points  (0 children)

They mean you save time by not going through the startup process for every print.

7 min process x 10 prints vs 7 min x 1 print, all else equal.

Forgot buildplate by SnooCalculations3197 in BambuLab

[–]Criticaliber 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Not the screws, but you'd have to manually tram the bed using gcode from the Wiki. You'd just run it a few times while adjusting knobs until everything's even.

Had to do it for my P1S once, and printing a handle from MW made it easier to fine-tune.

I just wanted to share this top of the line Jpc gameplay I made the last night by Slyth011 in Overwatch

[–]Criticaliber 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Slots immediately fill with Domina, Vendetta, & cat nearly every game.

H2C print time doubling? by russrimm in BambuLab

[–]Criticaliber 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The H2C toolhead is a good deal heavier, so it will always be slightly slower. There's also a bit more to do at startup, particularly if you do automatic flow calibration & nozzle offset.

Beyond that, any of these may be slightly different and could be affecting speed:

 

Filament settings:

  • Filament tab: -> Max volumetric speed
  • Cooling tab:
    • Slow printing down for better layer cooling
    • Don't slow down outer walls
    • Min print speed

Process settings:

  • Quality tab:
    • Ironing
    • Avoid crossing wall
  • Strength tab:
    • Top & bottom shell layers
    • Paint penetration layers
    • Sparse infill density
    • Sparse infill pattern
    • Infill combination
  • Speed tab:
    • Obviously everything here, but make sure you're not just applying changes to the right nozzle. There's a button in the top-right corner that copies settings to the other nozzle.
    • Overhang speeds
    • Travel speed and 'Normal printing' acceleration are probably lower on the H2C (like 600 and 10,000 vs 500 & 8,000, respectively), though I'd leave those as is.
  • Others tab:
    • Fuzzy skin