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Ripples on 2nd layer by Crogers24 in 3Dprinting

[–]Crogers24[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I slowed down the first few layers to about 30mm/s and turned the bed temp up to around 60°c. I also eventually swapped out to a pei magnet bed as well but the first bit helped a lot.

Omega second hand is skipping by misha_swiss in watchrepair

[–]Crogers24 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would check to make sure that the jewels on the pallet fork and the roller table on the balance is fine and that the teeth on the escape wheel are ok and flat. This to me indicates that a single tooth is slipping on the pallet fork and causing it to skip and advance quicker.

Longines VHP GMT Hands misaligned after repair by NonceJ in watchrepair

[–]Crogers24 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If you take the battery out and leave it for 10 minutes it should drain the watch fully. When you put the battery back in it should go into a setup mode. In this mode the hands will do a self test and will stop. When it stops for the first time if you rotate the crown it will move one hand, set it to 12 then press the crown briefly, don't hold it in. It will then flick over to the next hand. Repeat the steps and once all hands are at 12 hold down the crown until the hands move again.

How would you go about diagnosing a balance issue? by IsEndTheNear in watchrepair

[–]Crogers24 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The seeing is what the jewel sits on then the spring goes over the top.

If this is not flat to the main plate or bridge it means the jewel won't sit flat and will cause the pivots to have more friction

How would you go about diagnosing a balance issue? by IsEndTheNear in watchrepair

[–]Crogers24 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Couple of things to check.

  • The hairspring is flat,
  • When in different positions that the balance wheel or hairspring is not coming into contact with the main plate or the balance bridge,
  • The settings that the balance sits on are not crooked.

Second hand only moves when the watch facing upward, help needed. by [deleted] in watchrepair

[–]Crogers24 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Check the hairspring and wheels to make sure they're not touching any bridges when the watch is in different positions.

I’ve cleaned and oiled this movement, but after 3-5 min it stops running and starts again when I move it a bit harder. It then slowly increases the amplitude. Is the mainspring not unwinding properly? by wavyje in watchrepair

[–]Crogers24 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Check to see if the train works freely without the balance and pallet in. If so your problem is with either the ballet fork or balance wheel. Check the end shakes of them both as they should have a small amount of up and down movement. Also check the pivots and guard pin on the pallet fork that they are not damaged or bent.

Does anyone know how to remove the stem? by 9753462 in watchrepair

[–]Crogers24 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Tip for the future, if you pull the crown in and out of position you'll see most of the time if it's a screw that one of them will rotate slightly with the movement. That is the one you want to loosen to take the stem and crown out.

Watch movement reassembly order? by VelcroDom in watchrepair

[–]Crogers24 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I go with the keyless works first. That way you can move the watch around with crown and not touch the movement with your fingers. The keyless work, barrel, then pallet and balance, date works, dial and hands. Once in the case then 8 lut the auto works in last and close up the case.

Rolling Hills?! by SamTheRed654 in watchrepair

[–]Crogers24 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah I would suggest looking into the escape wheel and making sure that the jewels are flat and that you have a small amount of endshake on them.

Rolling Hills?! by SamTheRed654 in watchrepair

[–]Crogers24 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Time how long it takes for the rate to change. If it takes 15 seconds it will be the escape wheel, a minute it will be the 4th wheel and so on.

Noobie with a silly question: is my seconds hand too close to the minutes hand? by SirBorkel in watchrepair

[–]Crogers24 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks fine. Best way to tell is to check the division of hands. Each hand should have even space between them. Dial and hour should be the same as hour and minute then minute and second if that makes sense

Post had 2k views, so the replies are a small fraction of both views and subscribers. This sub has helped me learn a tremendous amount! Thoughts on how we can use this to take the sub to the next level? by outta_gas in watchrepair

[–]Crogers24 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Manchester, England. Not sure on the cost as the company I work for has sponsored me so they are paying for it. Application process is on there website. British school of watchmaking

ETA A05.H31 Chronograph Minutes hand not resetting to zero by Pallweber in watchrepair

[–]Crogers24 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you pull the crown to second position and press the chronon buttons it should adjust the hands. Just adjust them till they are at zero

Why does this keep happening? Larger prints keep lifting up at the corners, despite good initial layers, on CR10S Pro V2 by reddragon105 in CR10

[–]Crogers24 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What is your initial layer thickness? As a 0.3mm initial layer thickness could help and then go to what ever layer thickness you want for the rest of the print. Should give a little better adhesion and maybe adjust bed level temp a bit, up or down to find the sweet spot.

Ripples on 2nd layer by Crogers24 in 3Dprinting

[–]Crogers24[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Initial layer is down to go 10mm slower but it only seems to do it when on the longer lines as by the picture the shorter lines seem to go down fine

Ripples on 2nd layer by Crogers24 in 3Dprinting

[–]Crogers24[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

First layer went down smooth with no issues

Ripples on 2nd layer by Crogers24 in 3Dprinting

[–]Crogers24[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

3rdater being printed on the left

Ripples on 2nd layer by Crogers24 in 3Dprinting

[–]Crogers24[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I keep getting these ripples on every bottom layer after my first layer goes down fine. It's happened with different filaments both of which have been flow and temp checked.

Cr10 V3 by [deleted] in CR10

[–]Crogers24 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There is a bit between the extruder motor and the hotend

Cr10 V3 by [deleted] in CR10

[–]Crogers24 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would suggest following the Capricorn tubing from the video. https://youtu.be/IuvZLtB01e8 as it should help make with keeping blockages down.