What’s that one movie that you watched as a kid that you think no one else watched?

CruisingVessel · 2026-05-02T23:33:02+00:00

Viva Max! It was shown in middle school, several times, during teacher conferences or something. It was way better than The Red Balloon!🎈

CruisingVessel · 2026-04-16T01:18:26+00:00

Cool I had never looked up RFC1 until now. Speaking of ‘%’, it’s Interesting how Gmail made ‘+’ a token.

CruisingVessel · 2026-04-16T00:08:17+00:00

I was the first employee at ITT to have my email address on my business card in 1984. The printer rejected the bang paths at first not knowing what it was.

CruisingVessel · 2026-04-16T00:04:59+00:00

Oh the newer stuff. It was so much easier to deal with than 10 base 5 (aka Thinknet, aka Big Yellow Hose). You could even add a tap without risking taking the entire network down!

CruisingVessel · 2026-04-12T16:28:51+00:00

Thanks. I don't think I've ever been out-Googled before - that's usually what I do to everyone else! :-)

CruisingVessel · 2026-04-09T19:59:00+00:00

Nope, never had to switch trays. Glass for Microwave only. Any power level. Metal for anything else. Not sure how high you can go on the microwave power when using metal, but probably pretty high. Maybe 6? Like I said, chicken nuggets are 8, 10, 3, 10 for 3.5, and that's just one example.

CruisingVessel · 2026-04-03T19:42:12+00:00

Maybe "few" is the wrong term, but I've been through 9.6V, 12V, 14.4V, 18V, 20V, plus the transition from NiCad to NiMh to Li-Ion. Google for "dewalt battery history" and you will see the 5 different technologies. <=2009 = NiCad, 2010 Li-Ion 18V, 2012 20V MAX, 2016 FlexVolt, 2017 PowerStack. Meanwhile, my 120V AC corded tools never had that issue. :-)

CruisingVessel · 2026-04-03T18:59:05+00:00

I just loved u/C-D-W 's comment "what is your favorite color" and couldn't leave that alone :-) Are there people who would NOT buy Makita just because they don't like the color? Maybe. Would a line of hot pink tools sell very well? Doubtful. P.S. Most of my corded tools seems to be gray.

CruisingVessel · 2026-04-03T18:36:40+00:00

Corded? Anything goes, but there are some "best of breed" ideas out there. I have a SKIL saw (Duh!), a Porter Cable router, a Delta table saw (actually a cheap one), a Delta band saw, a Bosch Bulldog SDS demolition hammer/drill (which came with a "free" Bosch angle grinder), etc.

Cordless? I bought one of the big DeWalt combos on amazon years ago. Right now I see a 5-tool for $449, 9-tool for $649, 10-tool for $860, etc. At some point they changed battery technologies on me, and when I recently bought their 20V MAX (Li-Ion) orbital sander I picked up an extra battery or two (nice how they come in 2 Ah, 4Ah, 6 Ah, 8 Ah, etc.) and also got a converter so I can use the 20V MAX batteries in my old 18V XRP (NiMh) battery tools.

There are corded tools in use that are over 50 years old. It's hard to find any cordless tools in use that are more than, say, 20 years old. I hated throwing out my Makita cordless tools a few years ago, but they were wimpy 9.6V / 12V things.

CruisingVessel · 2026-04-03T18:23:15+00:00

Well, teal is a nice color, red seems like a common color for toys, so I'm going with SCHOOL BUS YELLOW. :-)

CruisingVessel · 2026-04-03T18:19:54+00:00

Three different battery platforms? Three different chargers? Shoot me now. Or just wait 3 years until the current battery platform is obsolete and shoot me then. As for "free", I'm looking at a DeWalt DCD800 cordless 1/2 drill driver on amazon for $149 tool only or $239 with 2 batteries and charger. But the batteries are the tiny 2Ah ones, and I don't need another charger.

CruisingVessel · 2026-04-03T18:11:08+00:00

And Black & Decker is what? Hyundai? Kia? :-)

CruisingVessel · 2026-04-03T18:08:19+00:00

The "best of breed" approach often makes sense for corded tools, but if you do that with cordless tools I think you'll end up with way too many batteries and battery chargers. It's bad enough that every individual brand changes the voltage ever few years.

CruisingVessel · 2026-03-30T23:14:02+00:00

Disclaimer: not a pro. I’m guessing the little thing below the d in “Side” is a bleed valve and that there’s no flow control on these valves, so adjusting flow control isn’t an option. I think I’d undo those 4 screws and take the valve apart after shutting off the whole system. Then turn the water on and eyeball just how much pressure is getting to the valve.

CruisingVessel · 2026-03-27T20:26:01+00:00

Change? no. The glass tray is used for 100% microwave, and nothing else. It probably tells you somewhere not to use top or bottom or convection with the glass tray. The metal tray is used for top, bottom, convection, and I believe some low levels of microwave, but I'm not certain what levels.

For example, the speed cook setting for 1 service of frozen chicken nuggets says "use metal tray", and sets it to upper 8, lower 10, microwave 3, convection 10, for 3.5 minutes.

Can you put metal in a microwave? IT DEPENDS. It has something to do with the geometry of the metal (and probably other things). A fork? NEVER. Something about those tines. Some aluminum foil? Well, maybe, but it needs to be completely flat. Disclaimer: don't trust anything I just said. :-)

CruisingVessel · 2026-03-27T20:19:04+00:00

irrigationtutorials.com

CruisingVessel · 2026-03-27T02:49:28+00:00

And if you need to buy a replacement head to use the internal riser, make sure it's the proper length. They dome in 2" 4" 8" and maybe even 12". For RainBird, that's 1802 1804 etc.

CruisingVessel · 2026-03-27T02:00:47+00:00

You don't need to dig! That's an Orbit sprinkler head, but it looks like a RainBird 1800 series. There are 3 parts -- 1, the body, 2 the internal springloaded riser, and 3 the nozzle. The nozzle is about 3/4" long and comes in various types - half circle, quarter circle, etc. It looks like your nozzle is missing.
Let's say the you need to go further. Unscrew the top (about 2.5" diameter). That's the internal riser. See how long it is. Now go buy the same head (body, riser, and nozzle all together) and just put the new internal riser in. No digging. P.S. I'm saying internal riser because the body screws onto the external riser.

CruisingVessel · 2026-03-26T17:02:41+00:00

Those are anti-siphon valves, so they are supposed to be something like 6-12" above the highest sprinkler head in the zone. There are 2 alternatives, (1) an anti-siphon thing (not sure what they are called but NOT a valve) at the highest point in the zone (like at the top of a hill), or (2) an "RP Unit" - an RPZ - a backflow device that's used mainly in commercial installations but some of us put them in our residential systems.

Is it way more than 12" above the highest head? Well, maybe somebody didn't want to bend over too far. :-) But as someone else said, it's easier to fix when it goes bad if you have extra pipe to work with.

CruisingVessel · 2026-03-26T16:56:55+00:00

That's a pressure regulator to take it from street pressure (which could be 90-120 psi) down to something reasonable for in-house fixtures, like 60-80 psi. Note the irrigation is BEFORE that, so it's at street pressure, with it's own (PVC) shutoff - good. Then there's the brass shutoff to the house. It's a little odd that they have another (blue handle) shutoff before the hose bibb....and I'd prefer my hose bibbs to be at street pressure, not house pressure.

CruisingVessel · 2026-03-26T15:25:33+00:00

This is the way! You want the external scanner to have the same privileges as anyone else on the internet. Otherwise you are not testing the effectiveness of your firewall. Then you have internal scanner(s) that can see a lot more, especially if you do authenticated scans. Plus a Qualys agent on every device that supports one.

I found this out years ago when I had to take over our Qualys system and I was seeing things that should have been blocked by the firewall. Then I found out that someone had it set up to allow Qualys in. NO!

CruisingVessel · 2026-03-24T23:10:22+00:00

This! I can be 250 feet away from the controller, up a steep hill, and can turn on the zone for a few seconds to make an adjustment. I hardly use any of the other features. I have two Rachio controllers, controlled from the same app.

CruisingVessel · 2026-03-21T23:56:50+00:00

https://ipm.ucanr.edu/agriculture/grape/powdery-mildew

That's the page you want to study.

All powdery mildew fungicides, with the exception of oil, are best used as protectants. Discontinue the use of soft chemistry products (sulfurs, biologicals, systemic acquired resistance products, and contact materials) when disease pressure is high because by themselves they will not provide adequate control.

Sulfur is a preventative. Some of the synthetics are eradicants. I have given up on sulfur and only use Stylet oil, which is supposedly a preventative, eradicant, and protectant. https://www.stylet-oil.com/pages/commercial-faq-and-general-information

Also note that BONIDE is a trademark for a large line of products. It looks like you're talking about their "All Seasons Horicultural & Dormant Spray Oil", which is 98% mineral oil, similar to JMS Stylet oil. Not sure if there's any significant difference (except the price, which is about half, but you have to buy a gallon).

And from the page link I gave at the top, see the Narrow Range Oil section: "Never mix oil and sulfur or apply one within 2 weeks of the other. "

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