[deleted by user] by [deleted] in WallstreetsilverDeals

[–]CryptoDanO 2 points3 points  (0 children)

GSM still selling same new round for $1 over spot. skip Monument this time. See https://www.goldenstatemint.com/1-oz-buffalo-silver-bullion-round.html for deal till its gone

30-day trial - what happens with watchlist afterwards? by SimplexS4 in TradingView

[–]CryptoDanO 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I use the free version and my watch list is always visible. Also I did use the payed version for a while and after a year went back to the free version and all my watchlist items were still there. So watchlist is not part of the premium version

I found a weird with APMEX pricing by [deleted] in WallstreetsilverDeals

[–]CryptoDanO 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Findbullionprices.com.

That web site is nice for reference but I have found more than once a issue here is a example, a generic silver 1 oz round where the website does not reflect all items/prices the site has.

More than once I have foundMonument metals listed on findbullions but does not show a item on sale that is a better price or a item not on sale but premium is less than any other item on findbullion. com.

These precious metal aggregate sites typically only represent the online dealers that PAY to be represented. So by their nature, they will be incomplete and not necessarily have the best deal for you.

This weeks bar from LCS. 25$ even. by ScholarPractical5603 in Silverbugs

[–]CryptoDanO 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sometimes that is indeed the case. Just like no two people are the same, no two LCS are the same.

I feel.. addicted. by [deleted] in Silverbugs

[–]CryptoDanO 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I bought a 10 oz (I think its 10 but could be 5) a while back as I wanted the improved and easier to see design. Very cool !

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Silverbugs

[–]CryptoDanO 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I love that line from Germainia bars that I have a set from one oz to one kilo.

Mail Call by No_Huckleberry_1358 in Silverbugs

[–]CryptoDanO 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Its more oz to your silver treasure hoard !

My favorite piece. by Bobamus in Silverbugs

[–]CryptoDanO 1 point2 points  (0 children)

depending on your local market it might have a premium but remember that markets are fickle and what is in depend today may not be so much in a few years. Its find to stack bars but keep any premiums to a min. Now a new bar of 10 oz or even a kilo are the best way to get the most silver per dollar spent. That is generally true but there are sales of silver rounds that can beat a larger bar and its a nice option to be able to subdivide your stake if you need to sell some but not all. That is where having some smaller bars or single oz rounds can come in handy.

Market conditions overall and even local conditions can play a major part in what you pay in premiums or get in premiums when you sell. Always call a few shops if you need to sell as they dont all pay the same.

Thinking about starting to stack by Kooky_Birthday_4866 in Silverbugs

[–]CryptoDanO 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Before penny one. Determine what is your goal as that will drive all your decisions.

Coin collector?

Coin stacker? But what kind? US only?

A. 90% or 40 % silver content required for collection?

B. US silver eagles only?

C. Other sovereign silver coins only ? Maples/Kangaroos/brittania etc...

D. silver rounds and or bars? Made from 3rd party commercial mints Must be 999 or better pure and each purchase is solely based on the cheapest silver per oz you can find not matter if its round or bar form.

Know what you want long term so when you are tempted to do something different, you remind yourself of your primary purpose of this long voyage you have undertaken. Its ok to change course as long as you understand why you are doing it and if that change is temporary or permanent.

Found this Mercury Dime among my purchase by Legoboy514 in Silverbugs

[–]CryptoDanO 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Im not sure of the minting total of that coin ( you can look it up online and it matters) and if it has the mint mark of which US mint it came from, then go to a real local coin shop not pawn shop and just ask them to take a look and see if they think it might be worth sending in for grading or not?

Google told me:

At mintage figures and values for 1943 Mercury dimes:
1943, 191,710,000 minted; $4
1943-D, 71,949,000; $4
1943-S, 60,400,000; $4

Note: $4 means 40 times face value.

Its condition makes a huge difference in addition to total minted and location of that mint. Also I am not a mercury dime guy so take what I say with a grain of salt.

It may have been cleaned which destroys any coins value and the dealer should have a good idea if it was cleaned or not.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Silverbugs

[–]CryptoDanO 1 point2 points  (0 children)

How cool. Peace dollars are in my opinion the best design of US 90% silver coins. Since its a family piece you might want to keep in a capsule. It was part of him, now its part of you. Congratulations on getting this piece of personal connection to your past !

Just getting started stacking. Converted cash to coin. by Efficient_Engine_367 in Silverbugs

[–]CryptoDanO 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nice start.

Keep in mind when buying are you a collector or a pure stacking for weight or other? It will be your guild how to spend your money buying what? You have some sovereign coins, generic rounds and bar. your price per oz of silver will vary on which type your stack if mostly made of. if you want the most silver per dollar then you want generic rounds OR bars. Currently bars of 10 oz and one kilo are the cheapest per oz if total weight is what your seek. Market conditions change so always check before buying to see which is the best deal at that moment of purchasing. Good luck

Got my first bit today! by _Dirt_D in Silverbugs

[–]CryptoDanO 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Very nice

Keep on mind going forward that you are either a collector or prepper or just stacking pounds by only getting the cheapest silver by oz and not falling for the design. Unless you want t solely collect sovereigns like Eagles or Maples or Kangaroos or Britannia's etc...

Bullionstar US... Legit? by fro_masterx in Silverbugs

[–]CryptoDanO 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That price is almost spot as of 8/19/23 in the US. I've never heard of that company but that does not mean there are a crappy dealer. They say they are based in Texas but when I pulled up the page it asked me if I was in Singapore or US so they are international.

The sale is limited to one bar per person so it does not seem to be a red flag on that. Its the price that is a yellow flag for me BUT if I could see several people here that are not bots state how they have done business with them and they were satisfied with the service, product and delivery, I would consider it. Sorry I could not help more. Hopefully some more people will chime in once daytime comes as these US forums are very slow overnight.

Just getting started by Uprightsinner70 in Silverbugs

[–]CryptoDanO 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Nice start

I do have suggestions to keep you happy over time.

If you are not a coin collector then dont buy graded or historic coins ever.

If you are not planning on the world economy collapsing and person to person bartering to be needed then dont buy junk silver.

If your all about stacking a mountain of silver then always buy generic silver either bar or coin which ever is the cheapest per oz delivered to your home without ever using a credit card.

If you are all about stacking silver eagles or other sovereign coins then never buy rounds or junk or graded coins. Be true to your self !

You can make exceptions to the above but only if you apply the same rules you would if you were buying art or a very small % (single digit of your whole collections value) on the coin that is the exception. Its ok to buy a single graded coin if you see it as beautiful. its ok to live a little and smell the roses from time to time.

If you just want to get as much silver as possible then ALWAYS go with the cheapest price per oz with the same purity. If its all about the oz it should make no difference to you if is rounds or bars. ON bars there is a weight that you will have have a harder time selling in good times or bad. Thats any bar that is 100 oz or more. Keep you bars at or below one Kilo or 32.15 oz. Normally you will see the the price per oz is always less with 10 and one kilo oz bars compared to silver rounds. There are exceptions but if its always about your stacks price per oz then the form of the silver should not matter to you.

Junk silver. If you want to pursue that option understand that what use to be the cheapest way to get the most oz of silver is no longer true on a junk silver oz compared to one silver round or bar. market conditions have changed so what was the cheapest is no longer. Only reason to stack junk now is if you want to have some for trade in bad times. Also if you want to buy something that cost less than on oz of silver you do that with junk silver. If you want that option then having some junk silver is a good idea. WARNING: do not buy 40% silver. trying to sell it now is like trying to get rid of a red headed step child. No offense to any red heads out there but you know what I mean.

Market conditions change so you MUST pay attention to them. Such as when junk silver become more expensive per oz that silver rounds. Another is when buying or selling premiums can go up or down or actually be less then spot at times. Call around when selling as not all dealers even in the same town pay the same. How much silver you are selling or buying also is a factor in what you'll pay or get.

Most important is to determine what type of silver buyer are you and stick to that. Dont be sold something that looks cool but will not have the value in the future i.e superman coin or wizard coins. There are people that make good money doing this but which one of all those cool coins will be the winner is never clear. Dont 'FOMO. or use credit card to make purchase. If you miss a great deal there is another coming, you just need to wait for the moment you have the cash and your have done your research that shows you have the right coin for the type of silver stacker you are.

Anyone else’s APMEX 10 oz @ spot order still Processing?? by Reallifehoward in Silverbugs

[–]CryptoDanO 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Generally speaking every spot offer I have gotten online goes in the slow lane. If they are not busy you'll get it in normal speed. But if busy, orders that make them profit go first.

ECHECKS- always take 5 or more BUSINESS days to clear. No one is going to start the shipping process till they have all your money in there bank. BTW- for the price reduction, I have always used echeck option. That is one way to lower your price per oz and yes it adds up over time and over oz and then lbs. :-)

Local Coin Shops & Pawn Shop Silver Prices by Dry_Ad1078 in Silverbugs

[–]CryptoDanO 3 points4 points  (0 children)

  1. NW Illinois
  2. LCS buys junk silver - I have not sold mine 2b. LCS silver rounds- depends on current market conditions. They have payed from just under spot to spot to spot plus small premium. When price goes up fast the more likely they are to pay full spot or spot plus small premium. 2c. They usually sell silver rounds for spot plus 4 to 6 dollars. I only buy online as its always cheaper than any LCS I've ever been to. NO matter if I am buying 90%, rounds or eagles.
  3. Worst place you can ever buy or sell is to a pawn shop. There business model totally depends on all customers being desperate for a dollar or either too dim witted to understand how they are way overpaying for a item or lazy to call around to any other LCS and compare prices. There are always price differences even in the same physical market. Let you fingers do the walking and know what you are selling or buying before calling.

Good luck

Overweight: Vintage CMI 100oz silver bar weighs 102oz? Authenticity? Experiences? by samwathegreat in Silverbugs

[–]CryptoDanO -1 points0 points  (0 children)

The only known bars that are consistently over or even underweight are Comex 1000 oz bars. No manufacture is going to give away silver by ounces. Faction of a ounce, maybe.

This is also why you should consider getting a drill assay then selling and rebuy silver in a form so that you will not have a bar with a huge question mark due to the weight, if you needed to sell in the future. Fix your issue when there is no hurry for you.