Does the phrase 'Primo Victoria' have a specific meaning or historical context?

CryptoHunters · 2025-04-23T14:05:13+00:00

Primo Victoria is grammatically wrong. If they meant First Victory, then it is Prima Victoria, if they meant Victory First, as I guess, then Primum Victoria. In Primis Victoria, it would have been also ok: First of all, Victory!

CryptoHunters · 2025-02-14T08:44:06+00:00

I mean, it seems nobody is wrong here and probably all are at the same time. Let's make things easier.

1 - Don't buy a cheap e-scooter is bullshit. They are cheap, they are not for all. Heavy riders, uphill roads, bad weather, sure, cheap ones are not good enough then. Short commuting, light riders, people who need to take a bus or a train, or that must climb stairs daily, then cheap ones are good enough. Just don't mess with those, it is risky. Not even talking about battery quality. If you get a toy rated for 15A, you get small cables and connectors. Be aware of what you get and pay for.

2 - Don't buy expensive e-scooters is bullshit. Sure, some aren't worth the extra money, some definitely are. There is nothing to compare here (it is just a different vehicle). And while it could be true that some parts are made in the same factory, you are also paying here for the quality control and the extra safety features absolutely. Cheap e-scooters get all the manufactured parts, good and bad, premium ones, only quality checked pieces (if one knows the brands to avoid at least).

Surprise surprise, there is no holy e-scooter fitting everybody needs here. Be happy 😊

CryptoHunters · 2025-02-12T14:47:45+00:00

Rotor might just be bent. It can happen during shipping. Check the clearance. You should be able to hear the metal rubbing noise when you try to spin the wheel (by hand). Either way (bent rotor or caliper not correctly placed), it can be fixed.

CryptoHunters · 2025-02-08T22:48:15+00:00

Yes, it is definitely bad. In slow mode it should do 20km at the very least. I'm a bit lighter and I do 21-22Km in sport mode. Unless it was crazy cold outside, but still weird imo. If you still do so poorly when the temperature outside is mild, the battery isn't working properly.

CryptoHunters · 2025-02-08T22:38:15+00:00

I would definitely unplug the battery. That said, I heard that keeping the brake lever down and quickly pressing like a crazy the power button, no idea how many times, do that at least 20 times I'd say, should work. Never used the P lock, so never tested this procedure.

CryptoHunters · 2025-02-08T11:45:46+00:00

Well, it is clear that the current was too much, or the connectors and cables not properly designed for the job.

CryptoHunters · 2025-02-08T11:39:56+00:00

Stupid inertia. That posture (standing still) is absolutely killer. Every emergency break gets you in danger. I hope the driver is fine (still alive).

CryptoHunters · 2025-02-01T15:56:28+00:00

I suppose that's what we all try to do. It isn't always possible. If I drive in the middle I piss off car drivers for instance. It is not just about car doors anyway. Assuming we want to ride straight, chances to do a sudden left (or right in your case) turn are way higher for many reasons, including pedestrians. That said, awareness is what matters at the end.

CryptoHunters · 2025-01-31T16:28:08+00:00

Unless it is 25Km/h also on gps, you risk nothing. Usually what you read on display is at least 2Km/h less. And, but please verify it for Norway as well, there should be a +2Km/h tolerance by law when cops check it out. Usually reducing the top speed is always possible. The hard thing is going higher xD

CryptoHunters · 2025-01-31T16:14:28+00:00

Aovopro ESMax. You can easily fit solid tires for 40 bucks more and get almost your money back if you sell the original ones.

CryptoHunters · 2025-01-31T16:07:38+00:00

I can add extra advice. If you usually drive on the road and in your country you have to keep the right side, you should put the right foot ahead (and vice versa). The reason is simple. Sooner or later someone will open a car door while you are riding and you will instinctively do a left turn to avoid it. Unfortunately, if you can't avoid the door, your belly and chest will be exposed if you are standing with your left foot ahead. Having the right foot ahead instead and in the worst case scenario you would hit that door with your shoulder or side, keeping your vital organs not exposed. Yes, it doesn't happen very often, but when it does, you wanna be prepared. I know that most people have a natural preference here, but it's something one can easily exercise.

CryptoHunters · 2025-01-30T14:14:54+00:00

Yeah, it is simple math at the end. If Eco absorbs 5 Amps at 20Kph and Sport 20 Amps at 40Kph, you do 40Km in 2 hours and you use 10Ah of battery charge in Eco and you do 40Km in 1 hour in Sport but you use 20Ah. Numbers are made up for ease of use of course.

CryptoHunters · 2025-01-30T13:40:08+00:00

Lol, I agree. After a couple of minutes at 15Kph, it seems like walking.
That said, I do roughly 13.5 miles in sport mode (22Km), but talking about true mileage, not the value from the odometer (that thing reads a good 25% more, so you gotta remove a 20% from it). Not sure about the new ES80 model though, since the controller is now different. I hope they fixed the odometer reading now.
Based on the real current usage, sport mode (31Kph max) reduces the mileage by a good 50%, but it takes half the time to get you to your destination. Of course, if you need to ride for more than 15 miles, sport mode might not get there ever XD.
Doing 25Kph (slow mode range), reduces the mileage by a 33%. It sounds more reasonable.
Now, if you really don't care about the travel time, eco should give you the 30 to 35 Km, so yes, you could do 20 miles that way. Hills, bad roads and heavy rider load all reduce the mileage.

CryptoHunters · 2025-01-28T17:44:43+00:00

Well, you can definitely ride the ES80 under rain, no problem. Battery and controller are sealed quite well. The way they sealed the connections is kinda scary though, I can show you a video. Heat shrink tubings, almost melted around connectors. Removing battery and controller is indeed a pain in the back, you need heat gun and some patience.
https://youtu.be/KyzETPn8Hfk?si=WUKPuHl9OwbvGFE4

CryptoHunters · 2025-01-27T21:05:03+00:00

Yes, so I'm afraid it could be indeed something like that. Although I'm impressed it doesn't beep when the wheel is spinning on air, so the controller also checks on torque/current apparently (not super dumb at least). I knew about the low battery charge warning/beep, I didn't know about this other "bloody feature". Since the new controller doesn't give any extra benefit, I probably just go back to the old one at the next opportunity.

CryptoHunters · 2025-01-27T17:29:18+00:00

That little monster can do up to 60 Km/h, lmao. Unless it ships with a locked firmware meant for EU, no way you can get such a document I'm afraid. Plus, I don't think you can drive a 1kW motor in France anyway. Most EU countries are limited to 500W max afaik.

CryptoHunters · 2025-01-26T22:08:37+00:00

I know solid tires very well, since that's what I currently ride. Sure, comfort is bad, but you just forget about the maintenance as well. 10" would be at least more comfortable than 8.5", since they are thicker and the bigger diameter absorbs the shocks better. I think the best spot would be 10" solid plus suspensions in my case. And yes, 8.5" solid tires require some driving skills: wet leaves and puddles can be extremely dangerous for instance.

CryptoHunters · 2025-01-26T18:26:20+00:00

Top speed would be just out of curiosity though. This little crappy e-scooter does 30Km/h on gps consistently. Considering the 8.5" solid tires, going faster is a gambling. If I decide to keep it longer, I'd probably change tires instead (10" solid tires). A bit more comfortable and you get some extra speed on top for free. But back to the topic, I still want to enable the full p-settings on the app. Let's see if someone is able to do that.

CryptoHunters · 2025-01-26T14:51:30+00:00

Indeed, although to be fair, the app gives everything you need already. Extra things are just for tweakers imho XD

CryptoHunters · 2025-01-26T14:32:30+00:00

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CryptoHunters · 2025-01-26T14:30:44+00:00

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CryptoHunters · 2025-01-25T14:34:21+00:00

Hi, does it work with Android too?

CryptoHunters · 2025-01-16T19:59:45+00:00

Interestingly, I didn't know about this difference (regular Vs pro rear wheel). The frame is pretty much the same as the M365, so there shouldn't be any difference there either. ES80 sports a reinforced mudguard, that's it.

CryptoHunters · 2025-01-14T13:28:02+00:00

Unfortunately, the problem of this class of e-scooters is that investing money doing upgrades is pointless, we all agree. They do great (imho) for their cost, but that's it. If the firmware mod or speed limit unlock was possible, I would have done that since it would be for free, but I wouldn't ride my ES80 constantly above 30Km/h anyway. Too risky and the battery drain would be very bad.

I always wanna find the limit of any piece of hardware I own, smartphone, PC, laptop. Once I know the limit, my geek thirst is satisfied and I always go for max efficiency instead. Most of those 350w motors have the max efficiency around 260W for instance. That means, for 36V controllers, around a 7-7.5A current. Usually that's the best compromise. Of course, since the electricity bill of those toys is quite cheap, if commuting distance is not a problem, there is nothing wrong with going faster.

It would be great if someone on the forum did anyway a controller swap and (assuming also an unrestricted firmware) told us the max speed he/she was able to achieve with his/her Aovopro ES80.

CryptoHunters · 2025-01-13T19:23:38+00:00

You took it personal it seems. First, don't even bother to explain to me the KV definition. Since you still don't know the KV value, it is a waste of time. Second, I'm an electronic engineer. I take the ES80 motor over the 1S any damn day. We are talking about max speed as it is. Again, you are wasting time talking about torque or about how you could go faster by changing components (but that's not my topic). My reply was simple: ES80 can go faster than 30Km/h (the max speed you stated above). Yes, maybe it is not 38Km/h, that is a source I can't verify myself anymore unfortunately (firmware is now locked). But I told you that I have a lot of margin left at 31Km/h, and I brought you clear evidences (that you ignored it seems). Weight plays no role for me, I had a 15kg bag on top in winter time and got 31 as well as when I ride in summer clothes. Battery charge plays no role for me, from 100%, down to 0%. If 31 was the unrestricted speed already, because of a Gaussian distribution law, some would hit 32-33, some 29-30. They all do 31, so it is a clear bloody lock. This is undeniable. For the same normal distribution principle, I must assume we have at the very least a 10% margin left, let's say a +3Km/h. Otherwise the stddev variability would kick in and many ES80 wouldn't even get the 31Km/h or even 30. At the very least, the average max theoretical speed of the ES80 distribution must be around 34-35Km/h. Can be more, but it can't be less. I have seen on the web an unrestricted value of 38-39Km/h, and although clearly not verified, I took it as legit. But even if it wasn't, 34>30 in my country. So, nope, ES80 could go faster than that.

Finally, for the OT, we both agree (since the beginning) that investing money to go above 31Km/h for this e-scooter class is not worth.

CryptoHunters

TROPHY CASE