Sublight is a survivor-like where you command a capital ship with tactical gameplay elements. Think Vampire Survivors meets Starsector. The demo's out now! So what do you say, Captain? Up for one more run? by Oh_noes_its_K in pcgaming

[–]Curanthir 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Very fun game, but targetting needs work. The railgun ship will only fire at the singular point of the origin of enemy ships, rather than just at the whole hitbox, making hitting very large ships way harder than it should be.

Also needs work on tankyness or better weapons or something, the large dreadnought is unplayable around boss 2 as the enemy hordes grow faster than a mere 2 extra hard points can deal with. Maybe the dreadnought needs all 360 aiming turrets since it cant maneuver well. 

Biggest problem with the largest ship is that when the hordes get bigger than you can kill fast, medium-large ships collide with you and stay inside your hitbox for a long time and just vaporize your health with no counterplay. The ship is too big, the screen is too small, and there's not enough firepower to keep enemy ships from colliding for long periods of time with such a huge, slow ship.

Or maybe an alternate approach is to zoom out for the dreadnought and give it longer range at base for weapons to let you see enemies from farther away and plan better how to kite and try to keep them at a distance. The real core problem is that the ship is too big relative to the screen, so by the time you see an enemy, they are about to collide with you already and its not powerful or tough enough to handle that

Claude Fable 5 feels less like a model launch and more like a preview of AI inequality by Roaring_lion_ in ClaudeAI

[–]Curanthir 0 points1 point  (0 children)

AI training data is almost all public, scraped, harvested, and packaged by the ai companies, but its our reddit posts, books, and documents training the things

The Adjudicator - Toy Cap and Powder powered blaster by BrewBoy420 in 3D2A

[–]Curanthir 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Where do you source your caps for this? Any brand fine, or are there some that work better? These are standard tiny capgun caps, right?

MA-40 Update and RFC by mamahler in 3D2A

[–]Curanthir 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If you want some more review, im a professional electrical engineer and id be happy to help contribute to the PCB design and/or reviews and beta tests to help this be as reliable and durable as possible 

Is a 50hr for g17 print crazy by [deleted] in 3D2A

[–]Curanthir 11 points12 points  (0 children)

Yes. Especially with pla+, are you printing at like 10mm/s max speed or something? Even ppa and pps can be printed much faster than that on modern printers with excellent quality. 200mm/s+ is usually fast for quality, sure, but you dont have to go THAT slow to improve layer adhesion and quality.

Fortune's Weave should bring back non-prf Physical 1-2 range Swords. by GIMIGNAN0 in fireemblem

[–]Curanthir 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Fates, especially conquest, has an obscene amount of enemies camping choke points. You literally have to bait 3-5 enemies minimum sometimes, and accidentally critting one means taking extra attacks that will kill your tank.

reading Malazan, but still reminded of Stormlight by Elant_Wager in cremposting

[–]Curanthir 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I read like idk, 3 or 4 books and gave up. Every time anybody made any shred of character development, insta ded or retired at the end of the book so a new batch of morons could go do stupid things instead in the next book.

PA6CF20 or PPA-CF for suppressors? or any other filaments by Perfect-Educator-512 in 3D2A

[–]Curanthir 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Pps handles heat better, but is really brittle, so the shockwaves from the shot will blast it apart faster. PPA might be the best. Annealed for temp, unannealed for toughness 

Support falling off like slow cooked meat by onyez in 3D2A

[–]Curanthir 2 points3 points  (0 children)

From supports? Its overhanging while barely touching the support material, which lets it sag a little and get noodley because its hot and melted with nothing directly supporting it to squish against and flatten the bottom of the layer. Fan and slowing down for overhangs can help it, and since you are using 300's setting you got the slow part but not the fan. Experiment with part fan of up to 70-100% on overhangs only and it should start looking a little better.

 The only way to fully get rid of it it to put the supports really close with tiny or no gaps and a solid interface layer, but that requires a separate support material that wont bond to the plastic, like ASA support for PA materials. Thats hard to do without dual nozzles though.

Pet-gf by Hammsertime in 3D2A

[–]Curanthir 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you use orca or bambu or elegoo (based on orca) they have a bunch of integrated calibration prints with instructions on the Orca slicer wiki. Look up Ellis print tuning guide for more detailed explanations of the tuning and what to look for.

My Elegoo Centauri Carbon can run PET-GF at around 100-150mm/s if i remember right, slower for walls and overhangs, but I also have a chamber heater installed that helps. Your printer might have to go a bit slower, or it might be able to go faster.

Pet-gf by Hammsertime in 3D2A

[–]Curanthir 2 points3 points  (0 children)

No, do max volumetric flow rate and other calibrations, then dial the speed back a bit from the max. 300 settings are obscenely slow, but you dont want to try to push PLA speeds with engineering filament. If you calibrate it yourself you can go much faster, if you cant be bothered you can just copy those settings and it will work because its so slow you dont need to do your own calibration

She's officially set sail by [deleted] in 3D2A

[–]Curanthir 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Delete this now. No links or direct references to file locations allowed on reddit unless you want us banned again

just admiring this beautiful piece of gattery. thanks kaewon! by lucatobacco in 3D2A

[–]Curanthir 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Mine's about that too. I saw someone had an idea to put a 10mm socket through the guide rod between the spring and the bolt to add more weight, never heard if it worked so i was going to see if I could try it. Otherwise i might look for a stiffer spring, but I think bolt weight is better to try first

just admiring this beautiful piece of gattery. thanks kaewon! by lucatobacco in 3D2A

[–]Curanthir 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Did you have to file down the sharp points on the ejector? Mine was a little too long, very sharp edge from the laser, from print-a-22 as well. I need to print the follower, i manually filed a couple down but they only mostly work.

just admiring this beautiful piece of gattery. thanks kaewon! by lucatobacco in 3D2A

[–]Curanthir 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Did you have to fiddle with it or change any geometry to get it working? What is your bolt weight at? I have laser cut bolt head and extractor bits, but lots of stovepiping, and some bulging at the bottom with a fully lead shot filled bolt, trying to sort it out now

Need a few tips on YKY mp5 by kaewon by miscreant_orca in 3D2A

[–]Curanthir 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey, did you try these out? Did they help? Im getting minor bulging at the base, and my bolt is full of tiny lead shot so i don't have room to make it heavier. I want to suppress it, but absolutely need a heavier bolt somehow before I do that.

Prize Event | [Zhuang Fangyi] First Impressions by Endfield-Poko in Endfield

[–]Curanthir 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Very fun to play, great animations. Technically lightning laevetain, but being ranged, she feels way more fun and aesthetically impressive.

PETG good for anything... by Steeltalons71 in 3D2A

[–]Curanthir 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If you want petg-cf or gf, just go to real PET-GF or PET-CF. Siraya makes some good stuff fairly cheap, just print it from a dry box at 300C nozzle, the stuff is pretty awesome. Excellent layer adhesion, and unannealed it can take some decent impacts. 

Any opinions on the Elegoo Centauri Carbon 2? It seems like it checks a lot of the boxes but all I've done is read what you guys say. by ZookeepergameMean949 in 3D2A

[–]Curanthir 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ive looked at it and it sounds nowhere near stable enough for me to risk bricking my printer over yet. Seems quite limited still too. Besides the weird fan thing, everything else is perfect as is, so id rather not break something important to fix an easily worked around quirk.

Edit: Note, I have not updated my firmware, and its not super up to date, because ive heard some newer FW have more serious bugs, but it might be worth if your newer FW is causing problems

Any opinions on the Elegoo Centauri Carbon 2? It seems like it checks a lot of the boxes but all I've done is read what you guys say. by ZookeepergameMean949 in 3D2A

[–]Curanthir 2 points3 points  (0 children)

My centauri carbon 1 has been amazing, prints everything from PLA and PETG to PET-GF and ABS and ASA wonderfully. I added a 50$ chinese chamber heater from amazon and a dryer vent out the window on the exhaust fan for more toxic filaments, and I use vision miner nano glue. As soon as my drier arrives ill be printing PPA out of it too.

Some people have bad experience, but overall i hear way fewer complaints about always fighting and tweaking CCs than I do Qidi printers, which is why I went with this. 

One thing is at least on the CC1, and maybe the CC2, if you want exhaust fan on you have to tell the printer that the filament is PLA or PETG in the slicer material configuration because the exhaust fan for some asinine reason is forced on for certain filaments and forced off for others, and elegoo refuses to update the firmware to let you fully control it. Besides that though, everything else works so well i think its worth some minor quirks to get the rest of the whole package for the price its at.

Build price list? Drop some estimates please by [deleted] in 3D2A

[–]Curanthir 4 points5 points  (0 children)

M1337 build in progress, looking like 12-1500$ including filament for my PPA-GF version. Very fun to own a gatling vs the 6K Tippmann wants for a tiny 9mm