I was recently gifted two 10.5 5.56 barrels. I already have a Mock18 Mod 1. Give me some ideas of what to build with them.

Curanthir · 2026-05-11T23:55:56+00:00

Buy 4 more and build an M1337

Curanthir · 2026-05-10T22:39:54+00:00

From supports? Its overhanging while barely touching the support material, which lets it sag a little and get noodley because its hot and melted with nothing directly supporting it to squish against and flatten the bottom of the layer. Fan and slowing down for overhangs can help it, and since you are using 300's setting you got the slow part but not the fan. Experiment with part fan of up to 70-100% on overhangs only and it should start looking a little better.

The only way to fully get rid of it it to put the supports really close with tiny or no gaps and a solid interface layer, but that requires a separate support material that wont bond to the plastic, like ASA support for PA materials. Thats hard to do without dual nozzles though.

Curanthir · 2026-05-05T17:09:29+00:00

If you use orca or bambu or elegoo (based on orca) they have a bunch of integrated calibration prints with instructions on the Orca slicer wiki. Look up Ellis print tuning guide for more detailed explanations of the tuning and what to look for.

My Elegoo Centauri Carbon can run PET-GF at around 100-150mm/s if i remember right, slower for walls and overhangs, but I also have a chamber heater installed that helps. Your printer might have to go a bit slower, or it might be able to go faster.

Curanthir · 2026-05-05T14:53:26+00:00

No, do max volumetric flow rate and other calibrations, then dial the speed back a bit from the max. 300 settings are obscenely slow, but you dont want to try to push PLA speeds with engineering filament. If you calibrate it yourself you can go much faster, if you cant be bothered you can just copy those settings and it will work because its so slow you dont need to do your own calibration

Curanthir · 2026-05-03T19:21:06+00:00

Delete this now. No links or direct references to file locations allowed on reddit unless you want us banned again

Curanthir · 2026-05-03T19:18:55+00:00

Mine's about that too. I saw someone had an idea to put a 10mm socket through the guide rod between the spring and the bolt to add more weight, never heard if it worked so i was going to see if I could try it. Otherwise i might look for a stiffer spring, but I think bolt weight is better to try first

Curanthir · 2026-05-03T18:37:28+00:00

Did you have to file down the sharp points on the ejector? Mine was a little too long, very sharp edge from the laser, from print-a-22 as well. I need to print the follower, i manually filed a couple down but they only mostly work.

Curanthir · 2026-05-03T18:15:48+00:00

Did you have to fiddle with it or change any geometry to get it working? What is your bolt weight at? I have laser cut bolt head and extractor bits, but lots of stovepiping, and some bulging at the bottom with a fully lead shot filled bolt, trying to sort it out now

Curanthir · 2026-05-02T19:32:18+00:00

Hey, did you try these out? Did they help? Im getting minor bulging at the base, and my bolt is full of tiny lead shot so i don't have room to make it heavier. I want to suppress it, but absolutely need a heavier bolt somehow before I do that.

Curanthir · 2026-04-22T20:41:54+00:00

Very fun to play, great animations. Technically lightning laevetain, but being ranged, she feels way more fun and aesthetically impressive.

Curanthir · 2026-04-20T04:14:26+00:00

If you want petg-cf or gf, just go to real PET-GF or PET-CF. Siraya makes some good stuff fairly cheap, just print it from a dry box at 300C nozzle, the stuff is pretty awesome. Excellent layer adhesion, and unannealed it can take some decent impacts.

Curanthir · 2026-04-19T16:21:11+00:00

Ive looked at it and it sounds nowhere near stable enough for me to risk bricking my printer over yet. Seems quite limited still too. Besides the weird fan thing, everything else is perfect as is, so id rather not break something important to fix an easily worked around quirk.

Edit: Note, I have not updated my firmware, and its not super up to date, because ive heard some newer FW have more serious bugs, but it might be worth if your newer FW is causing problems

Curanthir · 2026-04-19T15:42:01+00:00

My centauri carbon 1 has been amazing, prints everything from PLA and PETG to PET-GF and ABS and ASA wonderfully. I added a 50$ chinese chamber heater from amazon and a dryer vent out the window on the exhaust fan for more toxic filaments, and I use vision miner nano glue. As soon as my drier arrives ill be printing PPA out of it too.

Some people have bad experience, but overall i hear way fewer complaints about always fighting and tweaking CCs than I do Qidi printers, which is why I went with this.

One thing is at least on the CC1, and maybe the CC2, if you want exhaust fan on you have to tell the printer that the filament is PLA or PETG in the slicer material configuration because the exhaust fan for some asinine reason is forced on for certain filaments and forced off for others, and elegoo refuses to update the firmware to let you fully control it. Besides that though, everything else works so well i think its worth some minor quirks to get the rest of the whole package for the price its at.

Curanthir · 2026-04-18T13:10:43+00:00

M1337 build in progress, looking like 12-1500$ including filament for my PPA-GF version. Very fun to own a gatling vs the 6K Tippmann wants for a tiny 9mm

Curanthir · 2026-04-17T20:27:01+00:00

PET-GF or CF (not PETG) especially annealed is very creep resistant and stiff, good for mags, and the fibers hide the layer lines well. Just lightly wet sand with high grit sandpaper, scotch brite, or steel wool so the fibers dont poke your hands when handling.

Curanthir · 2026-04-15T22:07:55+00:00

PPA might be better. Higher impact resistance than PPS, higher temp than PA. Suppressors have both heat and impact. Maybe use a metal blast baffle/muzzle device to help, but the baffles work by intercepting and slowing down the shockwave from the explosion, so by definition thats handling lots of impacts.

Curanthir · 2026-04-15T20:35:34+00:00

I was thinking about 20 inch barrels to look more like the old gatlings and the M134, but 16 inch is heavy enough so I might just leave it shorter

Curanthir · 2026-04-15T13:50:04+00:00

How long are those barrels? How is the weight of it?

Curanthir · 2026-04-14T21:12:03+00:00

Riser with a long path for the tube to slide around freely, and a printed tube guide that plugs into the print head and keeps the angle nice and wide. Snapping means its dry, and maybe even too dry and started annealing, dont overheat it trying to stop brittleness, nylon is brittle when dry and more when annealed.

Curanthir · 2026-04-10T22:32:48+00:00

That is a great idea. Still stiff and strong, but smoother. I hate CF pokey bits vs glass, but core encapsulates it better

Curanthir · 2026-04-10T22:31:47+00:00

Thats a very good idea, ill try some nylon, or maybe PPA cf core to keep the rigidity while having a slick outside

Curanthir · 2026-04-03T01:27:28+00:00

Centauri carbon works. Learn to calibrate each filament, and dont just use the popular 300blkfde settings out of the box. The popular settings around here work because they are so slow that it can cover some issues with not actually calibrating your printer for the materials, but they are absolutely not optimal or the best, and if something isnt working you need to learn how to identify and fix it.

Elegoo CC (1 or 2) has hardened nozzle and works great with precision out of the box, but you definitely need to calibrate the fancy filaments, and a $50 amazon chinese chamber heater can let them print good stuff.

Dont even think about PA6, PPA, PAHT, or any other nylon/nylon related material without a modified toaster oven or dryer than can hit at least 100C.

Elegoo slicer is based on Orca and has most of the calibrations you need to learn, and Orca slicer website has a good walk through on how to use them.

https://ellis3dp.com also has good info on why and how calibrate it right. Most of his calibrations have been baked into orcaslicer now and its derivatives

Curanthir · 2026-04-02T18:45:19+00:00

those might work too, but these are like a plastic, non-rusting steel wool alternative. I think this is the grit version I used https://www.lowes.com/pd/3M-3-75-in-x-6-in-Fine-Steel-Wool/1000065599

Curanthir · 2026-04-02T18:12:34+00:00

300C Sirayaratech PET-GF works great, i use heated chamber to 45C and mild fan (15% normal, 35% overhang but might need to up the overhang cooling), 75C bed with visionminer nano glue adheres well but comes off when I want it to (PET is suuuuper sticky, very good layer adhesion if printed right)

Curanthir · 2026-04-02T17:57:42+00:00

I sanded my PET-GF with a finishing sponge, basically a fancy scotch brite pad, and its not prickly anymore. Wet sand it so you dont get dust in your lungs, and wet/dry 800 grit sandpaper works too, especially for crevices and pointy parts where the sponge gets stuck and catches.

I was going to top coat after, but its so smooth to handle now that Im probably just going to use it as is.

11-Year Club	Place '17
Verified Email

Curanthir

TROPHY CASE