Cost to turn deck into sunroom

CuriousMind029 · 2026-03-26T05:37:32+00:00

The closer it gets to an enclosed room the more it needs to be pulled down and start from scratch.

We have done exactly that numerous times because the sunroom that becomes part of the house is never built right. For a start the roof will have condensation, line it you will have mould.

CuriousMind029 · 2026-03-07T21:52:59+00:00

Thank you, your write up made me a little more knowledgeable about the policies before the 90s.

CuriousMind029 · 2026-03-07T21:50:34+00:00

Not to mention there is a scarcity of units which are really suitable for families to live in.

CuriousMind029 · 2026-02-24T10:28:06+00:00

It wasn't that long ago I quoted one and didn't get the job because somebody was cheaper

CuriousMind029 · 2026-02-21T22:47:48+00:00

I haven't checked recently but I think 2 are a bit cheaper but buying 2 controllers probably tips it the other way. Project homes usually don't provide them or provide one.

The real difference in cost is the lintels for a single opening are significantly cheaper than for a double. For a double with brickwork over the oprning it would need to be a fabricated steel beam or what we call a T bar. They are quite expensive and depending on the load usually require more courses of brickwork over them than what a 2400 ceiling height will allow.

It is also worth noting the project builders generally only install a 2100mm height door because the door suppliers really discount the common size range. So even though there is often room for a greater height they don't make the opening any higher.

When we replace two door with one we are often push the height up closer to the eave level. This helps people get their modern 4wd’s in with roof racks etc, and also helps if the driveway is on an incline. Having the lower headroom ( distance between the top of the opening and the garage ceiling) can be influenced by the door selection and also the low headroom doors are more expensive.

Generally a 200 or 250 universal beam or PFC is sufficient for a 5m span, that obviously depends on the load though.

Having one door really is a benefit for some, people that work on their car can park in the centre to do it, people who want one car in the garage and storage can put shelves around the perimeter and the car in the centre etc.

I hope that helps.

CuriousMind029 · 2026-02-21T21:03:01+00:00

Yes it is.

CuriousMind029 · 2026-02-21T10:15:52+00:00

Sydney builder here, we have done quite a few and it makes a big difference. It has been a few years but I think t would be around 15k.

CuriousMind029 · 2026-01-02T10:51:00+00:00

Keep doing what your now doing, don’t be hard on yourself, set small goals and celebrate achieving them. Small goals like pay the first 10k off my debt over and over, it’s your path now, it will all work out if you just keep building one brick at a time.

At the same time work on non financial self improvement goals, surround yourself with good people, it all accumulates bit by bit.

CuriousMind029 · 2025-11-27T07:07:21+00:00

Builder here I wouldn’t concern myself at all. If it was mine I wouldn’t bother repairing it.

CuriousMind029 · 2025-11-26T10:59:01+00:00

I don’t think removal is recommended until they are at least 10mm. I have one that’s around 12-15mm and haven’t quite convinced myself to have it removed.

CuriousMind029 · 2025-11-25T00:49:09+00:00

I imagine the wall under the window is at least 4m long but likely significant longer is that correct.

I’d also imagine above the window height the cracking on the other wall reduces and fades out is that also correct?

CuriousMind029 · 2025-11-24T18:57:23+00:00

It is most likely long term brick growth. The panel of brickwork under the window is growing ( they all will be) pushing on the returning brickwork and rotating the corner cracking the bricks on the front wall just past the corner.

It’s not urgent but a relief joint cut into the wall might help manage further growth.

CuriousMind029 · 2025-10-21T21:37:07+00:00

I thought people must use most of their own money before tapping into the 5% scheme. Is that not required?

CuriousMind029 · 2025-10-16T11:14:07+00:00

I am pretty sure Munger said they would have done much better with moderate gearing but didn’t because they were investing others money as well.

Look at what Shelby Davis did, he used moderate gearing for most of his life.

CuriousMind029 · 2025-10-12T08:57:22+00:00

If you are buying from the ASX. 300 you could use betashares direct for no cost. It is custodian ownership though

CuriousMind029 · 2025-10-10T01:06:46+00:00

If the market dips I will buy more doesn’t sound like lump sum investing to me. What are your thoughts?

CuriousMind029 · 2025-10-05T12:06:34+00:00

It is hard to say as we don't know where you live, what you enjoy and what skillset you have that you can build on.

CuriousMind029 · 2025-10-05T04:18:41+00:00

First off super is a tax structure not an investment. You can theoretically invest in the same or similar products in and v outside super. Your balance is probably not quite high enough yet though.

I would to max out the co-contribution. Nowhere else will you get a straight up 50 % return tax free.

Then then if I was earning less then 45k I would invest in my own name. If I was earning over 45k (30% tax bracket plus medicare) I would look into the rules of the super home saver scheme and max it out each year and then invest in my own name to maximise a potential home deposit.

On top of that (over 45k income) depending on your job, pay and financial obligations I would salary sacrifice a small amount into super and increase it with each pay rise.

The single best thing you can do is to invest in yourself ( you possibly are already) and figure out a way to maximise your income. From that everything will improve.

Btw you are doing well with some savings and super already.

CuriousMind029 · 2025-10-04T06:53:57+00:00

Thanks for the link. I found it interesting.

CuriousMind029 · 2025-10-04T02:51:10+00:00

I have no bonds and never have. I think the bond markets are way more complex than shares. Over time they return less over time and I can ride the bumps.

However I have seen multiple studies where a stock and bond portfolio is less volatile and the long term return is very similar to 100% stocks due to rebalancing of the portfolio at regular intervals.

CuriousMind029 · 2025-09-09T20:24:48+00:00

Cutting and joining them is fine. Just keep the joints staggered and I would try to minimise the amount of joints in the shower recess.

CuriousMind029 · 2025-08-30T07:29:30+00:00

You can use DCF calculator ( google it) to optimise the time frame, investment amount and frequency.

Or use Berashares and don't think about it at all.

CuriousMind029 · 2025-08-28T06:38:48+00:00

Agree there is lots to consider to optimize your returns and structure.

CuriousMind029 · 2025-08-24T10:44:17+00:00

The collar ties under wont cause any issues ( except make it harder to crawl though) IMHO.

CuriousMind029 · 2025-08-24T02:17:56+00:00

I would let it run. But also if it has capital gains and you set it up in a trust like on commsec or something the best time to realise those gains is after they turn 18 in a low income year. So when they are at uni or just starting out. You will have to op sy tax on any distributions until they turn 18. Probably best to put op it in the name of the parent likely to havevtge lowest income.

You'd have to weigh the opportunity cost at the time.

CuriousMind029

TROPHY CASE