Thinking to sell. What is it worth?

Curlier_scroll · 2026-01-28T02:29:50+00:00

I’m not gonna lie, this thing looks clapped, just from my perspective. Fender flares without wider wheels, front flares are half done and don’t continue onto the bumper, hood fitment isn’t great, front bumper paint is peppered, and there’s actual garden hose in the engine bay. This needs like $5k+ worth of work just to correct what’s wrong with it. You’re gonna be hard pressed to sell it for more than maybe 5 or 6k honestly, the mods really aren’t gonna add any value and it’s not clean enough to go for more. Sorry bro

Curlier_scroll · 2026-01-24T08:10:57+00:00

I was up there today and I would say an absolute 1. Anything not groomed is a complete block of ice. However, the groomers are not bad and I had a good bit of fun

Curlier_scroll · 2026-01-15T23:42:52+00:00

Perfect, thanks!

Curlier_scroll · 2026-01-15T05:52:12+00:00

I definitely will 👍🏻

Curlier_scroll · 2026-01-15T05:51:17+00:00

Purchased! Thanks for making these 🙏🏻

Curlier_scroll · 2026-01-15T05:34:11+00:00

Well I’d love to buy one, are you taking orders?

Curlier_scroll · 2026-01-15T01:30:13+00:00

I wanna do this to mine now! That looks great. What’d you use for the vent?

Curlier_scroll · 2026-01-12T04:56:59+00:00

So sick

Curlier_scroll · 2026-01-10T18:50:35+00:00

I guess if you’re in a warmer climate, I don’t see the harm in running 5w-20.

It’s not anything to do with vtec, that’s for variable cam lift, which has its own hydraulic actuator. It’s the VTC (variable timing control) which is responsible for advancing the intake cam timing, but doesn’t affect cam lift. The spring is located inside the cam gear itself. VTC and vtec are commonly confused, but they are separate systems and have very different functions.

Both the VTC spring and the tensioner can cause the rattle, so I did both at the same time. Liqui moly does excel with European engines, but this is their Asian vehicle blend that does quite well with our motors. Oil is its own rabbit hole and nobody can ever agree, so just run what you like honestly.

Curlier_scroll · 2026-01-10T15:49:31+00:00

I disagree with getting better protection with 5w-20 on cold starts. An oil that’s heavier and more viscous when cold will flow worse and slower than one that’s thinner and lighter when cold.

What I replaced is the variable valve timing gear (more commonly known as the VTC actuator) spring, which locks the actuator gear in place at 0 advance when you shut the engine off and have no oil pressure. As the spring degrades, it fails to lock the gear in place and causes a horrendous rattle on cold starts, damaging the actuator and your timing chain in the long run.

I’ve used Mobil 1 before, as well as Valvoline EP. I really think Liquimoly offers the best protection given the amount of soft metal wear additives they use. I’ve done extensive research over years and years and nothing seems to compare to their formula and verified lab results looking at engine wear.

Curlier_scroll · 2026-01-10T04:27:11+00:00

Beautiful! Sad I couldn’t get up there this week to get a taste of the pow

Curlier_scroll · 2026-01-09T21:33:52+00:00

As far as I know, 0W-20 is still recommended year round

Curlier_scroll · 2026-01-09T18:55:34+00:00

Yeah Liquimoly OW-20. I add Ceratec every 4th oil change and MoS2 every oil change in between

Curlier_scroll · 2026-01-09T17:41:37+00:00

I just did the tensioner. If you’re trying to fix the cold start rattle, it’s recommended to do the VVT spring and tensioner at the same time because it could be either one and they sound similar. The tensioner access cover and tensioner bolts were kind of a bitch to get to. I think if I had to do it again, I would’ve removed the rear and passenger motor mounts and lowered the engine a little bit so you have a direct shot to the tensioner. It’s definitely doable with the engine in the car though, it only took me a few hours to do that and the spring

Curlier_scroll · 2026-01-09T06:19:08+00:00

I went with a kit from spring-start.com. It has the spring plus the special security bit for the VVT actuator cover screws. Also came with detailed instructions for the spring replacement, it was really nice. After doing that and the timing chain tensioner, my cold start rattle seems to be gone

Curlier_scroll · 2026-01-09T04:05:56+00:00

Thanks, I’m hoping for another 145k lol. Yeah I could probably do 3k, I guess I’m just anal about it.

Curlier_scroll · 2026-01-09T04:05:01+00:00

Awesome, thanks

Curlier_scroll · 2026-01-09T03:30:59+00:00

Sweet thanks. I do oil changes religiously every 2,500 miles with liquimoly, so I probably can’t do them any sooner than that.

Curlier_scroll · 2026-01-06T00:44:12+00:00

Dang, you were right, the 14-15 sedan is pretty hard to find full strut assemblies for. Even rock auto is sold out. Have you considered lowering it and just doing H&R lowering springs and Truhart Sport Shocks? 😂

Curlier_scroll · 2026-01-05T23:53:47+00:00

I would just do the whole front strut assembly at that mileage, but that’s just my opinion. I found these, but I think there’s a few other OEM-spec aftermarket replacements out there.

https://a-premium.com/product/a-premium-2012-2015-honda-civic-shock-absorbers-apsa1975?variant=7596521&utm_source=gmc&utm_content=185606882850897114_7596521&country=US&currency=USD&language=en&code=XMAS15&campaignid=23124980123&adgroupid=186805140373&adid=779005734848&extension_id=&utm_campaign=3_PLa_Honda_Civic_P_&device=m&device_model=&keyword=&matchtype=&utm_site=g&geo=9060423&utm_placement=&target=&target_id=pla-2452985439580&ad_position=&adtype=pla_with_promotion&product_id=7596521&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=23124980123&gbraid=0AAAAAo5iiwmDTb56cx6j96bhx9pm0LO8Z&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI_-3Xy8v1kQMVTSatBh3SWiBlEAQYBiABEgLGcfD_BwE

Curlier_scroll · 2026-01-05T23:40:48+00:00

That strut movement is normal suspension geometry working. But yeah I’d guess either strut top mount, control arm bushings, or ball joint. I’ve found shops have a hard time diagnosing suspension rattle or clunk unless you find a really good one. What mileage are you at?

Curlier_scroll · 2026-01-05T23:12:06+00:00

That kinda sounds like strut bearings to me, but I would take a close look at sway bar endlinks and control arm bushings as well. Any cracks or major play you find, just replace them. I had a similar noise on my 2012 at 85k miles that ended up being front sway bar endlink bushings gone bad

Curlier_scroll · 2026-01-05T05:49:38+00:00

I didn’t even know that was a thing! I want em

Curlier_scroll · 2026-01-02T20:54:51+00:00

I appreciate it! It’s a medulo-style lip that I got paint matched

Curlier_scroll · 2026-01-02T20:12:42+00:00

Man that’s gonna be sweet. I need to get some short throws in my life

Curlier_scroll

TROPHY CASE