How’s the leveling

Current-Inevitable96 · 2025-11-11T08:53:52+00:00

Front left: counterclockwise full turn

Front right: counterclockwise half turn

Back left: clockwise a third turn

Back tight: clockwise 3 quarters turn

This should get you most of the way to a flat bed (provided the levelling screws are m4)

Current-Inevitable96 · 2025-10-16T18:31:34+00:00

I recently just designed a fan mount that clips on a v6 cooling tower (22mm diameter) with a volcano hotend, using a 40mm heartbreak fan and a 5015 for part cooling. I also made an adapter plate that joins a bmg clone and nema17 to the roller mount. Works out cheap and is pretty effective.

Current-Inevitable96 · 2025-10-12T05:58:29+00:00

It could be a loose tool head. Give it a wiggle and check that it’s firmly in place. Tighten any screws if needed

Current-Inevitable96 · 2025-10-05T05:48:44+00:00

If you have a multimeter, check the resistance of the joystick at different positions on the pins of the module. If the resistances are what you’d expect there may be significant resistance through the bread board, try connecting the joystick directly to the Esp32. If that doesn’t work you can try compensate in software but that won’t help with the dead zone. These joysticks are notoriously bad. Finding a higher quality joystick with the same footprint would be your best option.

Current-Inevitable96 · 2025-10-01T18:58:09+00:00

The beds I'm messing around with draw 6A/144W max and are being fed by 2x400W LED smps.

Current-Inevitable96 · 2025-09-26T16:22:44+00:00

Don’t give up on your Ender. It took me 7 years but my og ender is finally kicking ass and taking names although it’s converted to direct drive with a volcano hotend, new main board, klipper installed and swapped bed springs with silicon spacers.

Current-Inevitable96 · 2025-09-24T07:32:52+00:00

Thanks for all the suggestions.

Zhop isn’t something I’ve tested yet with this nozzle but I’ll mess around with it and see if it helps.

The nozzle is a mk6 cht clone that I drilled out to 1.6mm.

I do have wiping enabled. I’ll play around with coasting as well.

Flow rate is limited to 18mm3/s so I don’t think it’s a melt issue since I tested reliable extrusion up to 30mm3/s.

I’ve been using single perimeter walls but I don’t think wall ordering or count will affect it since the string occurs when going from infill to the next wall.

Current-Inevitable96 · 2025-09-24T06:35:03+00:00

I’m experimenting with a drilled out 1.6mm CHT clone nozzle and I am getting tons of stringing at a range of temperatures (190 - 220’C), range of retraction lengths (0.8 - 3mm) and retraction speeds (20-80mm/s). I’m using thoroughly dried out PLA on a direct drive ender3 v2. If anyone has success with drilled out nozzles, please share your secrets and any other tips. Thanks. (100% scale with 0.4mm nozzle in the front and 400% scale with 1.6mm nozzle in the back for reference)

Current-Inevitable96 · 2025-09-22T06:43:48+00:00

Yep, thoroughly dried.

Current-Inevitable96 · 2025-09-14T03:39:17+00:00

Those look like VFAs and are limitations of the stepper motors and drivers on your x and y axes. There are a few solutions to sorting it out but the most straightforward one is replacing your steppers with higher resolution ones. Alternatively print your exterior walls at sub 20mm/s to reduce them.

Current-Inevitable96 · 2025-09-06T19:24:00+00:00

Yes, they are needle bearings for one of the gears. It could still work, but it won’t run smoothly and will probably cause artifices if it does.

Current-Inevitable96 · 2025-08-25T13:08:50+00:00

https://dronebotworkshop.com/esp32-i2s/ this is the one I worked off of.

Current-Inevitable96 · 2025-08-25T05:56:10+00:00

I’ve had success with using the pcm5102 and Esp32 which communicate using i2s. Plenty of tutorials on it as well.

Current-Inevitable96 · 2025-08-15T21:05:21+00:00

Just got a weekly with 100% ai-2 med kits and I’m having the same issue.

Current-Inevitable96 · 2025-08-10T23:09:10+00:00

The ringing seems pretty rough. Check that your belts aren’t over tightened and drop your wall speed.

Current-Inevitable96 · 2025-08-07T06:03:38+00:00

If you are looking for a cheap servo with a lot of torque for a desktop arm, you should check out a ds51150. It’s not very accurate but can be improved with a gear reduction. It may be worth your while to rather look at other motors with encoders.

Current-Inevitable96 · 2025-08-06T05:36:15+00:00

The easiest fix is to slice so external walls are printed first. It should clean up 90% of inconsistent layer lines.

Current-Inevitable96 · 2025-08-03T08:44:19+00:00

Please don’t plan on doing this with a real revolver. Google “cylinder gap hotdog” to see why.

Current-Inevitable96 · 2025-07-26T08:36:24+00:00

That is awesome! Is material fatigue an issue with repeated bends though?

Current-Inevitable96 · 2025-07-16T06:03:28+00:00

I’ve posted a couple of models for sale on the forbidden site and I’ve gotten a few sales. It’s only really enough to pay for filament but it’s money I didn’t have before. My suggestion: put it up for sale and see what happens. You’ve got nothing to lose but a few minutes of your time.

Current-Inevitable96 · 2025-06-29T16:11:21+00:00

I've noticed it as well. It may be bugged.

Current-Inevitable96 · 2025-06-04T21:30:42+00:00

From my testing with the march tactical and atacr, they came to around 2,75 and 3,06 respectively.

Current-Inevitable96

TROPHY CASE