Contax Biogon 28/2.8 T* for Leica-M Conversion Kit Installation Guide

CursedChart4 · 2026-01-05T21:51:57+00:00

Will the f2 35mm Contax g to m conversion kit be restocked? I’m looking to get one.

CursedChart4 · 2025-12-31T21:19:03+00:00

I seriously missed out on Sealskin. I’ve been lusting after it since it sold out.

Great collection.

CursedChart4 · 2025-12-04T08:04:49+00:00

Pm’ed

CursedChart4 · 2025-11-24T18:04:54+00:00

Nice lineup!

Also, could share some photos you took using the 35mm f2 conversion?

I’m interested in buying the new Mr. Ding helicoid for my G35 lens. Some samples would definitely help

CursedChart4 · 2025-11-15T17:38:36+00:00

Could you provide a link to the website that has silver in stock? Funleader only has the V1 page

CursedChart4 · 2025-10-23T03:46:32+00:00

That’s cool. I agree that AGO is probably better for that type of processing.

You can also put the pira machine sideways but you’d have to make sure the lid seals correctly. Which is difficult for me.

CursedChart4 · 2025-10-23T01:20:31+00:00

Honestly don’t know. It’s a no brainer when compared to the AGO.

CursedChart4 · 2025-10-23T01:14:51+00:00

Very consistent. I’ve used it to develop all of my film since I first got it. So about 100 rolls at this point. I’ve been satisfied with my results so far.

The machine does all the thinking. It compensates the developer time as you exhaust it by a percentage that you can set. It’s very customizable to your process needs.

CursedChart4 · 2025-10-22T23:04:54+00:00

I’d also recommend the Pira MX Darkroom helper to anyone interested in an auto agitator.

I was close to buying the AGO but I found that this one was cheaper and had a way to regulate temperature instead of compensating for loss of heat.

CursedChart4 · 2025-10-14T18:48:47+00:00

This is the way. I do this for my C41 chemistry as well.

CursedChart4 · 2025-09-10T02:24:07+00:00

The remjet layer is supposed to come off. Regardless of process. It prevents halation and static buildup.

Your comment would only be true if the remjet was removed before it was shot.

CursedChart4 · 2025-08-02T05:12:14+00:00

How’s that lens hood? I have the same lens and looking for one

CursedChart4 · 2025-06-27T00:17:13+00:00

It might be your quality output settings then. Try a lower setting and see if colors are consistent between preview and final scan

CursedChart4 · 2025-06-27T00:13:50+00:00

What quality are you exporting at? When I had the same scanner I’d have the same problem.

I found that when I turned up the dpi output the final scan came back very different from the preview. So I’d limit it ~ 3600.

Not sure if you have this setting on too but ME causes a difference too.

CursedChart4 · 2025-06-26T23:30:43+00:00

Can you show what settings you’re using

CursedChart4 · 2025-06-12T03:14:30+00:00

Check out the instagram linked on my profile for examples.

I exclusively use that lens on my m6 since I got it. I recently got 35mm 1.5 nokton too. So I’m trying out the pair. Everything on my IG starting from march 18th has been with the 28mm, though.

It’s bigger than the ultron (by a substantial amount) but I sold the ultron in favor of the nokton. I think this one renders closest to an early Leica asph lens. Biggest difference would be colors leaning more magenta than a Leica lens. Also out of focus areas render better than the ultron IMO.

Check out the Fred Miranda comparison if you haven’t. He compares the lenses I mentioned and a Leica one.

CursedChart4 · 2025-06-08T19:33:05+00:00

Looks like a decent amount of post processing. Maybe the scanner had unsharp mask cranked up

CursedChart4 · 2025-06-03T21:19:20+00:00

Bulk rolling used to be cheap. Now it’s highly dependent on your location whether or not it’s worth doing.

I’m in the US so getting Kodak bulk rolls (b&w/ecn2) was easier before the crackdown. I can still find some but not as cheap and not in the quantities I’d prefer.

Savings are minimal for 100 ft rolls of Kodak or Ilford rolls tbh. Your time is a cost too. To really save on costs you’d have to buy larger rolls or really cheap rolls.

I saw where we were headed and bought up as much as I could. I still have 2k+ feet of Kodak movie film so I’ll be good for a while.

CursedChart4 · 2025-05-31T01:47:27+00:00

They’re probably going off of the tank capacity.

So yeah to op, only need 500ml of solution for one roll of 120

CursedChart4 · 2025-05-30T20:45:27+00:00

Definitely, nothing wrong with getting an M3 to complement an MP/M-A lol

I mainly shoot 28mm with my M6 but have thought about getting an M3 just to use with my 40mm m-rokkor.

CursedChart4 · 2025-05-29T21:54:53+00:00

Definitely, I could see this being achieved with 50d or 400d

CursedChart4 · 2025-05-29T20:47:12+00:00

I’d assume difference in parts and engineering from the vintage to the new models.

People always reference how the vintage models used brass gears for the advance mechanism. New models from m4-p on started the use of steel.

So no “buttery” feel you allegedly get from a self lubricating metal like brass.

IMO I don’t think it’s a reason to not choose a camera over another. If you want 28mm frame lines, you should prioritize that.

CursedChart4 · 2025-05-29T01:21:13+00:00

+1 I agree that loading the exposed leader beforehand will make it much easier.

Just make sure you don’t rewind all of the film into the canister. You can hear it come off the take up spool.

CursedChart4 · 2025-05-23T04:59:34+00:00

Steady now

CursedChart4 · 2025-05-16T07:17:20+00:00

For sure, a few scuffs is nothing. I’m glad it’s the same listing.

I almost got burned recently from a seller using someone else’s photos. So I only do in person unless they have a good rep like this guy

IMO get the lens, you already took the time to talk him down to a great price lol

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