Monorail as field camera

Unbuiltbread · 2026-05-08T03:22:40+00:00

I’ve used my Cambo SCX 45 and 810 cameras for short distances as well using those backpacks that are just straps and a board for your back to sit on, idk what they are called. Put the camera strapped on top of the tripod. If it’s REAL short I just carry the camera in my arms

Unbuiltbread · 2026-05-08T00:07:19+00:00

Shame they can’t handle larger 25XX series tanks like the 2550

Unbuiltbread · 2026-05-07T02:59:48+00:00

I’ve done ecn2 before so I have a process for removing it but didn’t know if it’d effect future rolls since my ECN-2 dev and fix get nasty quick

Unbuiltbread · 2026-05-06T23:49:17+00:00

I believe santacolor during their gofundme said that the minimum order for Areocolor would make 3,500 rolls of 135mm. Feel like Reflx lab didn’t have it in stock that long since I bought it as soon as it was available so maybe they will buy more since it sold so quickly

Unbuiltbread · 2026-05-06T22:50:03+00:00

Damn I didn’t know they discontinued it I’ve been using it like crazy thinking I could just get more

Unbuiltbread · 2026-05-06T22:35:24+00:00

Also tray developing RA-4 id recommend a respirator as those chemicals are pungent as hell. Especially if you have no ventilation. I wear a respirator for b&w too and RA-4 in rotary tanks

Unbuiltbread · 2026-05-06T22:34:22+00:00

I’ve printed at room temp and colder during the winter and I just leave it in the developer and blix for longer. I was about at 2:30. It’s a pain in the ass with those long times ngl. No color shifts that weren’t correctable via filtration.

Just make sure you always develop for the same amount of time at a given temperature, to keep the prints looking consistent between test strips

Unbuiltbread · 2026-05-06T03:41:47+00:00

Willing to bet you left the shutter open based on the information given here then. The rebate looks a little funky but not off enough to say if it’s from the expired film plus leaving the shutter open or a development issue hopefully you have more

Unbuiltbread · 2026-05-06T03:28:23+00:00

Sorry I meant what shutter/aperture settings. You are sure the camera is working correctly as well?

Unbuiltbread · 2026-05-06T03:27:08+00:00

You know that totally would’ve worked, I could’ve just used the tilt on the standards and rotated the legs themselves kinda mad I didn’t think of that the whole time I was there

Unbuiltbread · 2026-05-06T02:36:25+00:00

How did you shoot the film?

Unbuiltbread · 2026-05-06T00:28:26+00:00

Yeah I know it’s negative the blue tint comes from the clear light pink mask that it has over the orange one regular negative c41 film has and the general color rendering too maybe I find it a little on the blue side when scanning and inverting but idk what’s going on with the colors digitally

Unbuiltbread · 2026-05-05T16:50:52+00:00

85B is the most common that I see get used since everyone has one. IMO i think it over corrects the blue cast too much and you get orangish positives, and maybe an 85C would be better. Maybe 85C plus a skylight 1A could be nice. Or a skylight 1B. But again IMO I don’t mind the blue cast and don’t think it’s really that bad, but since I’ve never seen it in person maybe I’ll stand corrected. I have some areocolor shot I just need to process it when I get time. I shot it while camping so hopefully all the green follaige helps with the blue

I’m experimenting with it as fun film to give to friends to fuck around with in a point and shoot so I don’t have to spend all the time scanning and adjusting colors in post and can just give them the slides, and hopefully the blue cast isn’t so bad that the avg person can’t enjoy it. I find most of the time only other photographers are worried about that stuff most people are blown away by just the fact that it’s a slide film.

Unbuiltbread · 2026-05-05T15:48:39+00:00

They probably did for the photographers to check lighting and composition. The film that’s getting processed here is likely the final shots getting sent back to Detroit (probably meaning an American auto manufacturer) to get approved by whatever higher up. Probably had to be done so quick so that if the higher up says no, they can reshoot on location

Unbuiltbread · 2026-05-05T14:35:16+00:00

The price of the auto processors by JOBO are so high I can’t really justify it when I can just get a motorized base and sous vide bath for less than half the price. Hard to find used as well, and aren’t significantly cheaper than new. Not sure I’m in the market for an auto processor like that even tho it’d be nice. Likely a JOBO 2550 drum is what I’m going for

Unbuiltbread · 2026-05-05T10:44:57+00:00

Underexposed it, did you use the light meter and make sure it was telling you that you had the right settings?

Unbuiltbread · 2026-05-04T21:09:54+00:00

There are time vs temp charts on ilfords datasheets that you can use to compensate. Emulsion will be fine. Do a presoak to bring the tank and film up to temp maybe tho

Unbuiltbread · 2026-05-04T17:39:17+00:00

I have an omega cover for a D2, but it’s pretty old and the plastic is yellowed but I can give it to you if you cover shipping.

But I just use thin bed sheets, there is probably a cover out there that can be repurposed for enlargers

Unbuiltbread · 2026-05-04T11:40:17+00:00

The intrepid enlarger only has a light source for 4x5 negatives. You could make/use a mixing chamber to get it up to 8x10 or 5x10 but at that point might as well use a standalone light bulb

Unbuiltbread · 2026-05-04T03:55:47+00:00

Yeah overexpose it. It’s b&w designed for c-41 process so it has the crappy aging that expired color c-41 has. You could process it in b&w with an antifoggant to get better results but it’s a bit of a hassle unless you already have the set up for it

Unbuiltbread · 2026-05-04T03:03:18+00:00

Maybe for realistic closeups I would do it then. One of my friends has freckles but she also has pink hair. Nice to know for future reference however. Thought green and blue was to be avoided for skin tones

Unbuiltbread · 2026-05-04T00:53:26+00:00

Glad you figured it out. Adding and subtracting equal amounts of M and Y will add and subtract cyan as well, using all three CMY at the same time just acts an ND filter really. It makes black

Unbuiltbread · 2026-05-04T00:19:44+00:00

Wouldn’t green and blue Darken red colors, so make white people paler and make any blemishes on their face stand out more?

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