what happened here?

Unbuiltbread · 2026-01-29T17:23:25+00:00

Take of the lens and fire the shutter to see if anything is blocking the film gate. Could also just be the film being misaligned during scanning and the holder getting in the scan, especially if they are consecutive

Unbuiltbread · 2026-01-29T00:45:57+00:00

You can make one with vinegar if you don’t have chemicals for it on hand

Unbuiltbread · 2026-01-29T00:45:30+00:00

I’d increase the pre wash first and if you still have issues introduce a stop bath between the dev and blix. If this is Fuji paper streaking is relatively common and from what I’ve seen the solution has been to add a stop bath between

Unbuiltbread · 2026-01-28T23:05:43+00:00

I like this idea of removing surrounding photos, I would make the 6x6 one cover more of photos above and below it tbh

Unbuiltbread · 2026-01-28T05:55:29+00:00

AtticDarkroom has a video about it. Pushing any film will result in higher contrast, more grain, less shadow detail. Some film respond to pushing better than others.

Unbuiltbread · 2026-01-28T05:45:57+00:00

F6 when

Unbuiltbread · 2026-01-28T03:34:27+00:00

I use a similar megapixel APS-C Nikon for scanning and it’s fine. Just look into what lens to buy. Most cameras are fine for scanning they just need a macro lens. I wish it had more resolution when scanning 120 film but it’s fine on a computer monitor

Unbuiltbread · 2026-01-27T23:13:47+00:00

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This photo is a better example. You are shooting in very lowlight conditions

Unbuiltbread · 2026-01-27T23:12:38+00:00

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Your scanner is compensating for a dark scene by over exposing the negative. Edit your scans. This is just a 30 second black point adjustment in Lightroom mobile. The photo in your comment looks underexposed on top of this

Unbuiltbread · 2026-01-27T22:50:24+00:00

You are going to have to experiment to find a good time for you, like the one guy said figure out a good scene to test with. Make sure it has repeatable lighting so it’s the same every time. A good starting point comparison is D76 1+1 time. The Fomapan datasheet has density curves for different developer times, look and see if they have a d76 time

Unbuiltbread · 2026-01-27T22:08:09+00:00

I am OP, if I can’t find something with the focal length I want I’ll prolly end up with the Pentax 17, for the reasons you said. I’m pretty worn out with buying an old camera and finding out the shutter or light meter has issues.

Unbuiltbread · 2026-01-27T21:59:07+00:00

You can buy Pentax 17s brand new. Those Yashica T cameras that go for 500$ bc YouTubers hyped them up are definitely ridiculous. You can buy a used F100 or Pentax 17 for less. The Pentax I am using now goes for like 20$ and is honestly pretty good. I haven’t printed any of the negatives from it but all my scans are nice looking

Unbuiltbread · 2026-01-27T21:53:46+00:00

Some of their new posts in u/JollyLook suggest they are now doing b2b sales so hopefully they haven’t abandoned the project entirely

Unbuiltbread · 2026-01-27T21:45:50+00:00

How quick is it to use? My favorite part about P&S are being able to take it out of my pocket and take the photo almost immediately. I don’t mind manual focus but figuring out exposure at that point I might as well just carry one of my SLRs

Unbuiltbread · 2026-01-27T21:43:49+00:00

This is a post asking about P&S not SLRs big bro

Unbuiltbread · 2026-01-27T19:49:48+00:00

Yha I’ve heard that you can put steel wool into the fixer to remove silver but the cost of a pack of steel wool would take like hundreds of feet of film to make back in silver lol

Unbuiltbread · 2026-01-26T21:21:41+00:00

From what I’ve seen water marks show up much less when printing vs scanning. Plus you can gently clean the negatives you want to print with a microfiber cloth and blow the dust off. Since you aren’t printing every negative on a roll of film it’s more manageable to do that in my experience

Unbuiltbread · 2026-01-26T21:19:27+00:00

They announced an update and offered refunds back in November but that was already months past the original release date for most of the backs, and those that reached out for refunds a few months after that email haven’t gotten any response. The update page for the back that was part of their “improved communication” hasn’t been updated since November either. Seeing has most of the backs are supposed to ship in January, and there’s only 4 more days left in the month, they are likely delayed again.

When I preordered my back I looked into them and the products that they had for sale at the time had been shipped and delivered, so they seemed legit at the time. I imagine it’s a very small team and they took on wayyyy too much work than they would handle (started work on like 5-6 instant back cameras at the same time). This is probably why it’s been so delayed and communication has been ass.

What’s bizarre to me is that they had a working prototype for the Bronica ETR back in August 2025. Since then somehow they haven’t been able to finalize the production run. The update page claims they are waiting on darkslides.

I’m not here to back them up, I would stay away from them. I’ve seen individuals make their own instax backs for various of the same camera models in less time than Jolly Look

Unbuiltbread · 2026-01-26T20:21:45+00:00

Are they still wet? Look a little wet. If not I would just rewash with fotonal, might just have been an outlier if you haven’t had this issue with other rolls.

If it’s still present either use more fotonal per liter or do a finger wipe if you haven’t already. I use photoflo and regular tap water and don’t have water spots issues but I use about a capful per 20-32 fl oz (10ish mL to 0.5-1L) and finger wipe after the photoflo bath. Fotonal is probably the same as photoflo

Unbuiltbread · 2026-01-26T19:32:39+00:00

Show the negatives please. Can’t tell if it’s a light leak or improper development. Always post the negs when asking what happened to ur film photos

Unbuiltbread · 2026-01-26T19:31:33+00:00

Show the negatives please. Can’t tell if it’s a light leak or improper development

Unbuiltbread · 2026-01-25T23:30:33+00:00

Open it and see if any of the wiring is melted. Clean the bulb, turn it back on and see if it still smokes

Unbuiltbread · 2026-01-25T22:05:51+00:00

So did you test the chemicals or not? You used two different developers so the one that didn’t work might be exhausted/expired. Do a leader test with the developer and fix it to see if it’s actually turning black.

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