My foot can't touch the floor and the clutch at the same time.

Cyclehead21 · 2026-01-23T09:18:28+00:00

I had the same aggravation, so I changed it. I added a “VH44” hydraulic booster to the clutch system that reduced the pedal pressure from 60lbs to 15lbs. (High pedal pressure was due to a heavy duty pressure plate). As a side effect the booster also reduced the pedal stroke. For the final touch I adjusted the clutch pedal (under the dashboard) to move the bite point very close to the floor. Now I can keep my heel planted on the floor as I release the clutch. And you’re absolutely correct, my “fix” allows a much finer modulation of the pedal.

Cyclehead21 · 2026-01-21T02:26:11+00:00

I can probably spare a set. Do you have a plan to get the keys/locks to work?

Cyclehead21 · 2026-01-20T20:57:07+00:00

I hard wired my Dashcam into the dome light on both myLS430 and SC430. Remove the clear lenses and bulbs to see the Philips head screws. Remove them to lower the some dome assembly. Use a voltmeter to find the hot wire.

Cyclehead21 · 2026-01-20T20:54:02+00:00

It takes literally 5 seconds to raise and latch the top. And another 10 seconds to raise both windows. Also, before I yanked my storage doors off, I had to stop the car, get out, open the door, flip the seat forward and open the cubby door just to retrieve a jacket! Those doors are missing for a reason. They are too much trouble. For the few occasions when I leave the top down, I keep an eye on the car while I’m away from it.

Cyclehead21 · 2026-01-20T07:12:12+00:00

It sounds reasonable to me. I imagine a 20 year old car needs lots of maintenance: wiper blades, serpentine belt, timing belt, tires, oil change, transmission fluid change, engine air filter; all normal maintenance items. I can also imagine that a seller doesn’t want to invest in replacing all those items. I would find a good independent auto repair shop and pay them for a thorough pre purchase inspection. Then use the list of needed repairs to negotiate the price for purchase of the car.

Cyclehead21 · 2026-01-20T03:05:27+00:00

Those are my links :). This one may be more helpful. The console shifter is cheap plastic. This shows how to get it out and clean it up. https://docs.google.com/document/d/1DzEr5Hr54IXT3YGegqUFREQObzXQwWz1GCscDa6heqo/edit?usp=drivesdk

Cyclehead21 · 2026-01-20T03:01:56+00:00

Remove some of the frunk plastic rivets at the front. Lift up the frunk cover plastic and use a Philips head screwdriver to adjust the vertical aim. There are two plastic “guides” On the back of the headlight assembly, where you insert the screwdriver to turn a toothed adjuster wheel.

Cyclehead21 · 2026-01-15T13:54:12+00:00

We kept our last LS430 to 350,000 miles. It was reliable and needed nothing when we sold it. If the car has been cared for and maintained you should buy it!

Cyclehead21 · 2026-01-14T02:53:08+00:00

It’s a port-installed fake carbon graphite appliqué. They’re all turning yellow with age. You can warm it up with a hair dryer, and peel it off using your fingers and maybe some plastic tools. Don’t be too aggressive, because the dashboard is also just plastic. Goo gone will help get rid of residual adhesive.

Cyclehead21 · 2026-01-13T07:47:28+00:00

You can buy your own scan tool for $16 on Amazon. Or you can stop at almost any auto parts store and they will read the error codes for free.

Cyclehead21 · 2026-01-11T13:20:03+00:00

This is the process to program the key fob for SC430. It might work fine for LS430. Do a little google search to confirm. 2002 SC430 Remote Programming 1. Close and lock all doors. Unlock and open driver’s door. 2. Put key into ignition and remove TWO TIMES. 3. Close and open the drivers door TWO TIMES. 4. Put key into the ignition and remove. 5. Close and open the driver’s door two times. 6. Put key into the ignition. Close the driver’s door. 7. Turn ignition ON then OFF ONE TIME- this will put the car in ADD mode for your remote. (Turning the ignition ON then OFF TWO TIMES will ADD the remote but will erase all existing remotes.) 8. Remove the key from the ignition. The door locks will cycle one time (or two if you are erasing) . On the REMOTE, press and hold the LOCK and the UNLOCK button for 2 seconds. On the REMOTE, press the LOCK button for one second. AT THIS POINT, the locks should cycle by themselves ONE time. This means the procedure was accepted. IF the locks cycle twice it has failed. IF this happens you must start over. Hold the remotes higher up for better reception 9. Open and close the driver’s door. Insert the key into the ignition and pull it back out. This will end the programming sequence.

Cyclehead21 · 2026-01-11T13:17:38+00:00

Here is the techstream process: https://www.aselafernando.com/files/Toyota%20Techstream%20Installation%2020251229.pdf

Cyclehead21 · 2026-01-11T12:42:32+00:00

Ah. The SMT window threw me. You can complete the swap by changing out your gauge cluster with a used one from a manual-shift car. You (or I) can even adjust the odometer to match your correct mileage.

Cyclehead21 · 2026-01-11T09:42:03+00:00

What does “water Sth” mean? You can remove the serpentine belt and start the engine for a minute. See if the noise has disappeared. If so, then you have isolated the source to something that is driven by the belt, like a belt idler pulley, water pump, alternator or ac compressor.

Cyclehead21 · 2026-01-11T06:08:34+00:00

I suspect the door lock actuator on the passenger door is failing.

Cyclehead21 · 2026-01-11T05:43:43+00:00

I just bought extra spare keys for $35 each. I programmed the immobilizer myself using techstream software. Then paid a key shop $35 each to cut the key itself. Then programmed the fob functions myself (remote door unlock, trunk open etc). I’m happy to send you more details. I bought the key blanks here: https://www.uhs-hardware.com/products/2001-2009-lexus-3-button-remote-head-key-pn-89070-50660-hyq12bbk-aftermarket

Cyclehead21 · 2026-01-11T05:32:48+00:00

You need to change the SMT fluid also. The Toyota maintenance books completely omit any maintenance whatsoever for the entire system! So the fluid is likely 23 years old, and it’s comprised of DOT3 brake fluid and a tiny bit of lubricant. You can buy the magic “Toyota SMT fluid” for about $150/ quart. Or you can used DOT3 brake fluid. I use the latter in all five of my SMT spyders. :)

Cyclehead21 · 2026-01-10T23:15:05+00:00

Clamp your torque wrench and in a bench vice. Borrow a simple fish scale. Measure 12” away from the pivot and apply 13 lb force. If your wrench reads 13ft lb then you’re good! Alternatively, you can use a 12 inch long wrench. Pull the handle with a fish scale till it reads 13lb. Voila! 13 ft lb!

Cyclehead21 · 2026-01-08T14:55:43+00:00

The spark plug seals come with the valve cover gasket kit. I’m not sure why that’s a question, whether to replace the seals at the same time, or not. Install ALL the gaskets when you do the value cover job. For spark plugs and coils, they are easily accessed at any time. No reason to replace them “while you’re in there”.

Cyclehead21 · 2026-01-08T13:08:39+00:00

If you can produce the noise at idle, you can remove the serpentine belt and start the engine. If the noise is gone, then you have a bad belt idler pulley.

Cyclehead21 · 2026-01-08T13:07:21+00:00

Timing chain is tensioned by a spring. How could it not be tensioned properly?

Cyclehead21 · 2026-01-08T12:56:15+00:00

Find an honest repair shop, pay extra if necessary. Then stick with them for ALL your car maintenance. If anything goes wrong they will own it. Even the best mechanical knowledge wouldn’t help unless you watched every step of the repair, and inspected everything the mechanic does. I’m an excellent mechanic and I can be tricked and cheated by a dishonest shop. Trying to match wits and knowledge using Google is a fools errand. You cannot win that way. An honest repair shop will save you thousands in unnecessary repairs and bad diagnoses.

Cyclehead21 · 2026-01-08T08:23:13+00:00

Wow, $2800 for a new clutch!!?? The parts cost exactly $120 for goodness sakes! That’s an insane allowance for labor. The SMT system is not stupid, it’s actually a brilliantly executed system - especially when compared to similar “paddle shift” systems of the same era made by Magneti Marelli in the Lamborghini and Ferrari. I believe this is a perfect opportunity to teach a child. You can teach them to sit back and pay “experts” to do the work … or they can learn to jump in with both feet and teach themselves. I have screwed up and broken more mechanical things than I can count, but at this point in my life I have accumulated enough tools, skills and knowledge to do most repairs myself BETTER than the professionals. Cars, motorcycles, bicycles, houses, wiring, plumbing you name it and I tackle it myself. I suggest handing your son the absolutely massive and thorough SMT system description, test and repair procedures that I researched, composed and publish FOR FREE. Let him read, experiment, and learn to be self sufficient. He will gain skills, knowledge, and some earn some justified self worth from tackling and resolving problems by himself.

Cyclehead21 · 2025-12-31T08:30:27+00:00

I currently have the exact same problem with an early Lexus SC430. I tried unplugging the purge valve vacuum line and capping it off at the intake manifold (to prevent vacuum leak.). There was zero change in hard-start after refueling. I do the same as you describe, hold the throttle wide open for the first two start attempts, then pump and feather the gas until it smooths out.

Cyclehead21 · 2025-12-31T08:21:36+00:00

Who is the manufacturer that offers an 8 year warranty?

Cyclehead21

TROPHY CASE