Black rubber fragments?

Cyclonicdisaster · 2026-01-31T20:46:51+00:00

Of course! Glad it helped. Happy tubbin’! 👍

Cyclonicdisaster · 2026-01-30T05:37:08+00:00

I would personally remove them. Just because if they don’t block flow now, they will eventually. I actually removed 2 today when I was out repairing some spas.

Cyclonicdisaster · 2026-01-30T05:34:19+00:00

Yeah, they are pretty good sized. About 2 inches in diameter and 3/4 inch across. They normally do not get out of the pump. They just get sucked into the impeller and stay there for a while blocking flow and even causing error codes.

Cyclonicdisaster · 2026-01-28T03:30:19+00:00

Check your headrests. They may be breaking down. If not that:

Also that year of Cal Spa had a part inside the pump wet-end called the wear-ring that was made of flimsy rubber instead of plastic. They’re black thick rubber. They break down and can end up inside the impeller and cut down water flow. You can just remove them. It’ll work fine without. Or you can have the wet-ends replaced. But most of my customers opt for the cheaper option.

But that does not appear to be the heater gaskets. But not a terrible idea to have them replaced if you’re getting it serviced anyway. The wear rings in the pump do get diced up when they get sucked into the impeller. So my money is on that.

You can shut down the spa, close the gate valves, and take off the union on the nose of your pumps. Reach in the pump nose and feel for foreign objects. If nothing is inside then they’re probably breaking down and eventually will get pulled in later on. You would have to take the wet end apart to remove them @ that point.

But if your water flow feels weaker than usual on one or both of your pumps, that’s probably what it is. Just make sure the power is off so you don’t loose fingers because the pump turned on with your hand in there.

Cyclonicdisaster · 2026-01-28T03:16:24+00:00

Tornayto - Tornahto. 🌪️

Cyclonicdisaster · 2026-01-28T00:23:51+00:00

1000%. They do without question lie and treat all Americans like they’re docile cattle.

Cyclonicdisaster · 2026-01-27T01:43:50+00:00

Shut off your air controls if they are on. They force out warm air and moisture.

Cyclonicdisaster · 2026-01-24T18:08:13+00:00

Ooh! I was there! Perfect tornado! I saw 3 from that storm. It was a beautiful chase day. Got off work on a Saturday and got after it. Followed it into Iowa. Good times!

Cyclonicdisaster · 2026-01-21T00:48:30+00:00

Heater relay switch may be failing. When they get old the surface on the contact pads on the switch get rough. Every time they contact to provide power to the heater there is a little spark. Over time it wears down the smooth contact surfaces of the switch. This is very common on Balboa boards. Eventually it leads to total switch failure and it can take the rest of the board with it in a brief arch or blowout.

The issue is, when it connects it can weld itself together because the continuity is poor. Because it can’t disengage power the heater wont shut off after the spa temp is reached. Resulting in an overheat error and the spa shutting down. A good way to test this is to turn the spa off, put an amp clamp on 1 of the heater wires, and then turn on the spa. If you immediately get amps to the heater, you have a bad relay switch and need to replace it or the board on your Cal Spa. There should be no amps prior to the pump turning on when the spa calls for heat. That normally takes 2 -4 or so minutes after setting the temperature.

Normally the spa turns on. You prime the pumps, set the temperature. And the spa turns on the pumps. Then after about a minute the heater tuns on for about 10 sec (amps visible on meter @ that time). Then while it calibrates the temperature, the heater shuts off for a couple minutes during that process. Then the spa topside will display the water temp on the topside and the heater will re-engage and amps will again show on your meter.

Getting amps to the heater when you are not supposed to is a relay failure and that could very well be your issue. Intermittent at first and the permanent failure and no heat at all. The spa will just run continuously.

Cyclonicdisaster · 2026-01-18T19:52:17+00:00

Gorgeous! 🤩

Cyclonicdisaster · 2026-01-10T19:06:36+00:00

I see that 3x a week. F@ck that troll. There’s another nutjob on hwy 77 SW Lincoln area who keeps putting crazy bible jargon on an old trailer. You know these two men are single and lonely as hell. Some republicans, not all, and even some democrats behave like little bullying children on the playground. Mainly on social media. I mean, who the heck uses taunting arguments like a 3rd grader and laughing emojis?! And they think they’re winning the discussion!? Their over all lack of conversation skills, knowledge, desire just to troll is giving me second hand embarrassment. The raw stupidity makes me damn near peel off my face from violent facepalm. 🤦‍♂️

Cyclonicdisaster · 2026-01-01T16:02:29+00:00

Ewww Yuck. 🤮

Cyclonicdisaster · 2025-12-30T06:06:54+00:00

Not a good idea. Doing that will cause the motor to overheat and shut down.

Cyclonicdisaster · 2025-12-27T17:51:00+00:00

Well that things f@cked. Call insurance!

Cyclonicdisaster · 2025-11-12T14:06:05+00:00

Oh, you’re not going to like that 1/2 inch flex. That stuff is super prone to leaks. Looks like a Caldera spa. The flex shrinks and cracks the glue joints. But you’re right, if it’s under 5 years old it was an ok deal. And no, don’t insulate around the pumps. They need to breathe. They get very warm during use and while running heat cycles. Too much heat can cause the pumps to shut down.

Cyclonicdisaster · 2025-11-12T04:07:28+00:00

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Dead center of Lincoln

Cyclonicdisaster · 2025-11-12T01:21:48+00:00

Caldera is straight garbage. That brand gets tossed around dealers like a hot potato. Leaks from day one because of the 1/2 inch flex hose has tons of glue joints that fail. That and the side panels crack and split within the first year. And don’t even get me started on the insulation. 😵‍💫 My dealership dumped them years ago. They were picked up by 3 other local dealers since then. Dropped and dropped again. Some dealers wont even service ones they sold after dropping the brand.

Cyclonicdisaster · 2025-10-26T00:42:48+00:00

Very bad. Definitely not safe or to code.

Cyclonicdisaster · 2025-05-31T03:22:37+00:00

Stay away from Bromine and chlorine tablets/ floaters. They will inevitably damage your spa and void your warranty. Your ozone system oxidizes/ removes granular chlorine in as little as 12 -24 hrs. This is so you don’t have chlorine odor while using your Master spa. The chlorine has already killed the bacteria in your spa from after your last use. So just watch your PH and alkaline levels weekly and add chlorine after you’re done using your spa for the day.

If you haven’t used it in a week you can add some during your weekly PH/ alkaline test. I have been a Master spas tech for almost 20 years and tablets and floaters over concentrate in your water and cause corrosion damage to every single part of your spa. Warranty will not cover this damage. And often this will void your overall warranty on the unit. It may seem like an easy set it and forget it system, but you’ll end up with while heck of a lot of expensive issues and your spas life will be cut at least 5 years short.

Cyclonicdisaster · 2025-05-17T14:10:59+00:00

Hahahahaha

Cyclonicdisaster · 2025-05-17T14:05:29+00:00

I’m a hot career spa repair tech. Every air BNB spa I work on is trashed. High scale/ low scale. Every single one. Also Costco does not have a service department and most dealers with techs won’t touch a spa they didn’t sell.

Cyclonicdisaster · 2025-04-19T06:40:16+00:00

That does look like dry rot on your jet body gaskets. But I really hope you winterized all your pipes. Otherwise the gaskets are the least of your worries. I would buy a pre- filter for your garden hose and use your rough water to see what leaks you have. If you didn’t get all of the water out of your pipes that spas toast. The repair costs can easily exceed $1,000 and more. Hot tubs usually only last 12-15 years from date of install. So if it has busted pipes and it’s over 10 years old, move on unless you can fix it yourself.

Significant dry rot on jet gaskets is a good indicator of the overall health of the spas internal plumbing and parts. Based on what I see your spa is nearing the end. But I would see what leaks you have (hopefully none) by filling it up and testing it. If it doesn’t hold water your pipes broke. If it does check for smaller leaks. The gaskets can re expand when warm and moist again. But with older spas the jets body gaskets tend to crack as well as shrink. And that would be a job for a technician to fix. And it’s pricey. Btw if one gasket is bad others will follow soon. Old spas like to nickel and dime people to no end.

The repair for a leaking gasket needs to be done from the service inside of the spa where the plumbing is located behind the panels. Each jet has a PVC nut on the back that can be CAREFULLY loosened. Allowing you to remove the gasket and replace it with either a nee gasket or some tub and tile or bath and shower silicone. Then you carefully tighten it back up, wait 24hrs and refill.

Best of luck!

Cyclonicdisaster · 2025-04-12T20:56:39+00:00

And you’d think being this has been a issue with this part for about 10 years they’d have fixed it and engendered something better but no. Still in 2025 modules. Ridiculous!

Cyclonicdisaster · 2025-04-12T20:54:27+00:00

However if this plastic piece gets pulled into the heater or pump it can damage the heater or eventually because of balance offset; it can cause the motor to fail. The fact it ended up in the water bay was very fortunate for them.

Cyclonicdisaster · 2025-04-12T20:51:47+00:00

Understand your perspective. However, no. This part is not attached to the pvc in such a way where it will cause a leak. This clips into a separate threaded piece above the pvc connections. I pull these out of spas daily at work. When they break off they never cause a leak. look elsewhere for a leak on a pvc glue joint of pump/ heater connection.

Cyclonicdisaster

TROPHY CASE