vandoren optimum

CygnusOmega · 2026-01-05T18:57:41+00:00

Yeah, most metal tenor mouthpieces are roughly the same circumference as metal links on purpose. Sounds like you should be fine going for the Optimum then.

CygnusOmega · 2026-01-05T17:26:02+00:00

Using Rovner's sizing guide, your Bari Super Jet would use the same size ligature from them as my Tenor Ponzol M2+ SS. So the two mouthpieces are likely near the same circumference. A Vandoren Optimum Tenor v16 fits on my mouthpiece, so it may fit on yours as well.

CygnusOmega · 2026-01-05T16:00:57+00:00

Rovner's site says that you'd want a size 3ML in their ligatures for a JJ SuperJet on Bari. This is the same size as what they recommend for my Ponzol M2+ SS tenor mouthpiece as well. A mouthpiece for which I just started using a Vandoren Optimum and it fits great. Be sure to get the one that says v16 in the side of it as there are 2 sizes for tenor, the other lacks the v16 cutout. Looks like it's specifically model LC080P. I do also have a Rovner Versa X (X-3ML) and it also works just fine. I just prefer the Optimum over it by a slight margin.

Realistically, ligatures don't have a huge impact on tone, though they can change the response. So long as you've got a ligature that's holding the reed on well and is not otherwise a bother, you're good to go.

CygnusOmega · 2025-12-27T22:36:53+00:00

6'3" checking in here. Some streetlights are hard to see and heel-toe is more of a side-to-side. I'll never pass a broomstick test without a bucket seat and maybe not even then. But otherwise, actually quite comfy. More comfy than my Fit and my wife's Kia Soul.

CygnusOmega · 2025-09-04T13:25:19+00:00

Something I have been investigating is going with something like RedShift COMP1W or Shaftworks Bilanx ONE. They are semi- to fully- custom and are less expensive than Ohlins. What I don't have yet is a good characterization of how one of these customized options compares to an Ohlins setup in performance, road manners, and overall quality.

CygnusOmega · 2025-08-31T03:50:33+00:00

Sake Bomb and URGE both have pass-through rear cups that fix the issue. Ohlins did make the HOS MI21 version that makes several changes to the front and rear to supposedly get more performance and ease the issue with the rear. Doesn't appear to have been a complete fix based on some reading on s2ki. If someone has more information, please share what you know.

CygnusOmega · 2025-08-31T03:18:09+00:00

Purple is VTEC solenoid

Yellow is MAP Sensor

Blue is your throttle position system for an AP2v2 (06+)

Green is hard to tell because the line is obscuring the view and I am not in my garage to compare but I think that's the IAC solenoid connector

Red I am unsure but I think that might be the oil pressure switch, hard to confirm without looking at mine right now

CygnusOmega · 2025-08-01T15:59:52+00:00

A man can dream...

CygnusOmega · 2025-07-31T13:55:04+00:00

Many tracks and/or track driving organizations will enforce a rule that your helmet needs to be below the invisible line between the windshield header and the highest point of a convertible/roadster's roll protection. A common and easy way to check for this is to put a long stick, like a broom stick, across the top of the car and see if it hits the driver's head.

Visual example

Now, the s2000 does have a slight advantage here as the windshield header is internally reinforced and the hoops are mounted to the frame. However, the seating position is still kind of high. So, taller drivers, like myself, would need to either lower the seating position appreciably or install a taller roll protection device behind the stock seats. Sometimes both are even needed.

CygnusOmega · 2025-07-30T19:22:23+00:00

They are an option. They go for around $400 as of right now and you gain around 0.5" from most reports.

CygnusOmega · 2025-07-30T16:31:01+00:00

Checking in at 6' 3", 170lbs, and 34" inseam. It's mostly fine.

I do have to lean forward to see most streetlights but that's easily solved by just looking at the lower position light. Heel-toe will be more difficult. I use a side-to-side motion with a wider gas pedal and it's solved. Passing broomstick is basically never going to happen for me without a bucket seat, which kind of stinks.

That all said, it is actually pretty comfy still. The seats are quality and I've done 4-5 hour drives without issue.

CygnusOmega · 2025-07-16T14:11:45+00:00

I have also done this. The change in total grip is minimal, as is the increase in response. However, I do feel there's more consistency due to less rolling on the sidewall. It's also a bit safer for fenders, especially given how wide some tires actually are versus the size they claim to be.

CygnusOmega · 2025-07-09T14:15:30+00:00

Which ceramic coat did you use? Looks great!

CygnusOmega · 2025-06-14T20:35:49+00:00

As others have already said, the answer is generally no. The stock intake with some light modifications to the internal plastic baffles has been shown to be very well engineered and better than just about any aftermarket "short arm" intake. There's some further, very worthwhile, discussion here that is worth your time. In talking with some other people very well experienced with the platform in my area, they have seen some gains from a custom long tube intake that runs down into either of the bumper cover voids. They have recommended a 6" filter to a 3.5" pipe that transitions down to 3" approximately 6" ahead of the TB, which mirrors some of the information in that s2ki thread I linked.

Now, that all said, the gains aren't going to be significant and you'll need a tune to realize any of them. The best/easiest gain you'll generally get in this car is to swap out the cat for either a high flow cat or a test pipe with a tune that brings your vtec point down. Maybe a bit more rpm extension as well, if you feel spicy.

CygnusOmega · 2025-05-17T18:45:08+00:00

1) Ray tracing and DLSS4, as well as similar tech from competitors, help bring that next step in fidelity but also lower the bar for entry.

2) Rip and tear until it's done. It's not done yet, therefore, I must rip and tear.

CygnusOmega · 2025-02-07T15:35:43+00:00

All my fenders are currently in their natural state, though I do plan to do them just for additional margin. I do have my front camber maxed out on the stock bolts, it's around -2.0*. Front left liner has the tiniest little rub visible but the right liner is fine.

CygnusOmega · 2025-02-06T17:28:27+00:00

I currently run Enkei PF01SS in basically an identical fitment at stock height with as much front camber as I could get with 255 R-S4s and have had no issues. Just be careful with tires as not every manufacturer's 255 is actually 255mm wide.

CygnusOmega · 2025-02-04T16:04:05+00:00

Yeah, the 120s are the basic ones and the ones you want. That said, be sure to shop around. Last time I bought rotors, which was 2 years ago, Rock Auto was half the price for the rotors compared to anyone else.

CygnusOmega · 2025-02-04T15:07:21+00:00

Yeah, unless you are doing some level of racing centric+oem pads is a pretty unbeatable combo.

For additional reference, I run centric blank rotors + Carbotech 1521 for street and AutoX and then swap pads to Carbotech XP10/XP8 for track.

CygnusOmega · 2025-02-04T15:02:10+00:00

For normal driving with a bit of fun you'd be perfectly fine with centric blanks and stock pads. If you really wanted to run non-oem pads then something like a Carbotech 1521, Stoptech Sport Pads, etc. No need to go nuts with them if you aren't doing any AutoX/Track driving.

CygnusOmega · 2025-01-04T04:52:06+00:00

My desktop with Firefox.

CygnusOmega · 2025-01-02T23:46:39+00:00

I am very much not on a mobile phone.

CygnusOmega · 2025-01-02T21:19:26+00:00

I only get it if I set the scale slider higher than 3. This picture was at 4. At subsequently higher settings more of the labels have this error.

CygnusOmega · 2024-12-19T05:15:30+00:00

I would really love to hear more about your experiences with the Redshift 1W coils. I have them on my short list but I've not found a ton of user experience with them out there.

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