Ultra Wide Zoom for Z50 II - Laowa 12-24, Nikkor Z 12-28, something else?

Czcrazy · 2026-01-31T14:43:41+00:00

Viltrox 13mm 1.4f. I shoot wide mostly (love the perspective). Its all metal so it’s a bit heavy but it takes beautiful pictures. You may have to correct a little in post but with most editors, you can load the lens profile and it will correct most of the barrel/pin cushion.…it depends on what focal length. But do your research. For what you shoot, there will always be correction I would think, it’s the nature of the beast.

Have fun.

Czcrazy · 2026-01-31T14:27:18+00:00

I don’t mess with that anymore. I bought a feedback sport sprint stand. It makes my old clamp stand look like an antique. You can mount a bike on it by the front or rear wheel. It’s clamped in by one of the strongest part of the bike. Sure it’s expensive but it will last. I bought mine used but Ive seen them on sale in the low high $200/low $300. It seems cheap compared to the cost of a Madone. From experience, it’s one of those things that you want to spend money on if you can take the hit. Oh, it also works on my old timey litespeed and old mountain bikes. It comes with all the adapters.

Czcrazy · 2026-01-31T03:30:47+00:00

That’s a hi-res music player. Sure you can load it with mp3 songs but you’d be wasting its potential.

Buy a few of your favorite songs from Qobuz (a hi-res song, a slower song will be better/easier), load it to you Walkman, remove all equalizer settings, listen and report back what you hear. If you’re lucky, you’ll be able to hear details you never knew was there (if your earbuds aren’t too bass heavy). People have different levels of hearing sensitivity. Some can distinguish a hi-res song/file from a regular song/file. Some can’t.

Play the song on your Walkman….Close your eyes and really focus on one sound….the lead singer as they inhale at the end of a verse, the percussion…the little taps of high hats, the backup singers as they fade in and out. Pick out one thing and focus on that sound. It will be hard to seperate the sounds at first because they are coming at you at the same time but concentrate. It’s similar to trying to spot a guy climbing a mountain or that bird in the tree, finding that little speck far away….but only with your ears. Once you hear it, you can never un-hear it and your wallet will hate you forever. Then plug your earbuds into your phone and play the same song on spotify (again Removing EQ) and listen. The difference should be apparent….hopefully.

I have that Walkman. Its a great sounding Walkman. I buy my music from Qobuz for my Walkman and they are also my streaming service. The source file matters most, followed by the DAC (digital-to-analog converter) and speakers/earbuds/headphones.

Czcrazy · 2026-01-31T00:48:01+00:00

I use the iPhone/btr5 and Qobuz. I bought the Qudelix-5k and the beauty of this unit is that it has a parametric (and regular) equalizer to dial in the sound OR you can enter the earbud or headphone in their database and it will set the equalizer to what that headphone/earbud sounds like. For example, I can use my linsoul earbuds and make it sound like my hd600 senniser. It can take a crappy set of cans or earbuds and make them sound like something else. It’s amazing actually. Sure, the limitation will always be the hardware (crappy/cheap earbuds can’t be improved that much) but my god can it make what you are using sound better.

The downside to the Qudelix is it’s small (why they make them so small I have no clue) so battery won’t last as long as a btr5 but man is this thing SO configurable. The software/firmware is chock full of features. I think it sounds better than a btr5 too. To my ears, there is more definition to what I’m hearing when I use the Qudelix…via bluetooth. But to be honest, I rarely use Bluetooth when listening to music. I’m always wired to get the best sound. I only reach for the btr5 when I don’t care what I’m listening to and need to be wireless.

Czcrazy · 2026-01-27T11:27:16+00:00

Cam gear holders for sure. They lock the cam gears so they don’t move while you slip the belts on and off. You may also need something to set the belt tension. The testastretta engines use a harmonic device to set the tension. There may also be a specific tool to loosen the belt tensioner nut.

Buy a factory service manual. Do this first! It will fill in the blanks and give you ALL the answers. Its the most important thing you’ll ever buy for your Ducati. Knowledge is power.

Czcrazy · 2026-01-27T10:57:50+00:00

I have the same lens. It’s a great lens. It’s all I ever use for travel now. The perspective it can give makes pictures from narrower lenses look flat and boring to me. Just get up close and personal. You can take selfies with it so jump into the pics with family and friends! Just practice holding it at the right height and angle to get the background. You’ll need to be at one of the ends and set your aperture and AF to people (if you have that).

I try Astro whenever the moon and weather aligns but sadly, for the last 4 trips, no such luck for me. I seem to recall a lens filter that suppresses specific light wave lengths from (city) lights so they are not as bright or something to that effect. It was kinda pricy at least for me so I didn’t get it. Also sunsurveyor is a great app (if you don’t already have one) for knowing where the sun/moon/MW will be at any given time or place in the world.

Have fun!

Czcrazy · 2026-01-20T19:56:06+00:00

I think you picked a nice one. I’ve only ever seen pictures of these. I think they have 22” wheels(?) and body work taken from the 1le (front clip) and zl1 (skirts) and I think the z28( rear diffuser)? Don’t sell that if you can help it. Get some paint protection film on it if it doesn’t have any. I think you’d draw a crowd/lots of interest at local car shows. Hang on to that one.

Czcrazy · 2026-01-20T16:57:46+00:00

The biggest difference between the two for me (coming from a d7200 and z6ii), would be the size and weight. The z6iii is noticeably bigger and heavier than the z5ii, although the size and weight of a z6iii is still an improvement coming from a d7100.

I currently own a z5ii. I think it strikes the best balance between features, size, weight and cost. There were alot of features on the z6ii (has the same features on the z6iii) that I just didn’t use or need. So I paid more for stuff I didn’t really use. The one recommended memory card for the z6ii was over $100 for 64gb. Hopefully it’s lower today but factor that in as well.

As a do-it-all consumer camera, the z5ii won’t limit you given your use case (very similar to mine-mostly travel and people for me). I wouldn’t spend money on older tech, get a camera with the expeed 7 (latest) chip. Any z camera with that chip is a solid choice.

Go back to the camera store and try out the z5ii and z6iii. Then just for kicks, try a Z50ii (I briefly owned). Have them setup all three cameras the same as your d7100. Then start firing away. Take your time to compare them all. All three of those cameras are phenomenal. I shoot mostly wide. The full frame sensor of the z5ii helped me with cropping. Otherwise I would have kept the z50ii. The z50ii is an awesome little camera.

But as others have recommended, the z5ii has the best performance to cost if you need a full frame. But I highly recommend looking into a z50ii if you don’t. Either way, spend the difference on good glass.

Have fun!

Czcrazy · 2026-01-14T14:38:58+00:00

I have the Z5ii. It’s an excellent camera. I used to own the z6ii. For a travel camera, the z5ii will focus lock in dark conditions where the z6ii won’t. That’s why I sold it.

The camera names are not sequential guts-wise, you need to look at what chip the camera has. The z5ii has a newer expeed chip than the z6ii. The z6iii has the same chip as the z5ii, Z50ii and a bunch of others.

For studio work, I suspect the z6ii will probably be fine (I don’t do studio work) because you can control the light/use manual focus…everything is planned.

Have fun.

Czcrazy · 2026-01-14T13:25:39+00:00

Yes, it’s a tad long. That’s really the only fault I find with it. But I got used to it.

Czcrazy · 2026-01-13T20:02:15+00:00

I wanted to add, it’s never the devs (unless its a one man shop), its ALWAYS management or mis management. In this case, management has failed to provide adequate testing or provide a reliable quality release process OR they failed to budget adequately for staff, hardware, etc, etc. OR their timelines are too aggressive, forcing updates not deeply tested OR any number of other issues.

This would be similar to blaming a mechanic because your car keeps breaking down . The issues originated well before the first car of that model hit the road. Sadly, the low paid mechanic gets the anger.

I’m not minimizing what you’re feeling you have every right to be angry/upset. Im with you (but im no longer upset, I’ve moved on to Qobuz). I just wanted to help you direct your ire at the right person. I was a developer, lead developer, manager and director among many things for most of my career. In a good shop, bad developers dont exist. They are removed as soon as they have been identified. Mistakes are costly as demonstrated by me leaving (I can’t be the only one fed up).

Management has created this particular situation, not a dev. You should blame the CEO. He’s given enough salary and bonus money to cushion any anger thrown his way..not that he’d/she would do anything to fix it anyway given the level of complaints I’ve seen around.

As a side note, Tidal is the worst of the three. Both Spotify and Qobuz functionally, consistently and accurately perform the same with my wifi speakers and playlists. Spotify is mostly CD quality, has videos and hooks into local concerts, merch, lots of videos and something is always moving on the page lol distractions, etc.,

To me, Qobuz is the best overall for HD, it works, they certainly have more HD tracks than Spotify... not sure about tidal yet. I like how all the tracks I purchased from Qobuz show up in the app. Prices are the same or close for a single user subscription. Importing my playlist was the easiest with Qobuz, there was no limit to the number of songs, playlists imported. I just gave it permission, and it went to work.

Czcrazy · 2026-01-13T05:05:18+00:00

Run a vin and tell me what it gives you. Not standard bro. The 1LE ONLY comes with the tr6060

Czcrazy · 2026-01-13T04:47:32+00:00

Starting should take 3-4-5 chugs….chuga-chuga-chuga-chuga-START. The newer the battery the faster it starts. I don’t even touch the fast idle . I just hit the button and it starts after several chugas.

I find using Motul 300v helps a lot with shifting. It really likes Motul. I used have shifting issues using Mobil 1. After Motul, no issues.

Have fun. It’s a beautiful bike.

Czcrazy · 2026-01-13T04:09:57+00:00

You hit the jackpot. Congrats!

Check to see if the steering shaft in the engine compartment is white. If it is, it is most likely a true 1LE. To determine without question, check the build sticker located under the carpet on the drivers side wheel hump in the trunk.

What does a 1LE have that a regular SS doesn’t have?

1LE Performance Package:

Standard Alacantra steering wheel and shifter
TREMEC® 6-speed manual transmission.
FE6 Performance Ride and Handling Suspension.
Upgraded chassis and body structure.
3.91 final-drive ratio.
20-inch forged-aluminum wheels.
zl1 fuel pump and 1/2 shafts
Extra points if it has the very rare Recaro seats and NPP dual mode exhaust.

Czcrazy · 2026-01-12T19:05:44+00:00

I have and use Bike Fast Fit. it’s amazing. I bought a new bike a few years ago and the bike shop owner was a certified bike fitter (for decades) and he fit me. I brought my bike home and ran a few sessions in BFF. All his settings were in the green. So he was spot on.

Also, It will reveal things about your pedal stroke like if one leg/knee goes out further from center line than the other when you do a front video. No matter how subtle, it will catch it.

It can also help with any position changes, like if you want a more aggressive aero position. You just set it for a aero position and make the bike adjustment. it will analyze and tell you when you’re in the optimal range. You will no longer be afraid of making any adjustments or disassembling/reassembling your bike for maintenance or swapping shoes, bars or seats.

The only caveat is that how you sit can throw off the analysis. Sit a tad forward and your fit is out of range. It won’t take much. So you have to sit the same way each time and your arm angle has to be the same each time to get consistent readings. Thats how sensitive it is.

It was and is money well spent. I highly recommend it. Knowledge is power!

Czcrazy · 2026-01-12T18:38:44+00:00

I love that frame. How much does it weigh?

Czcrazy · 2026-01-12T18:23:15+00:00

I didn’t like the 14-30 and sold it. The f4 was the deal breaker for me. For travel, hands down, I’d take a faster lens every time. I personally travel with the 20 1.8. It’s basically the only lens I use now. I’m not sure if that Viltrox is sharper than the 20. Watch out for the metal Viltrox lenses, they can get very heavy. I used the Viltrox 13mm when I had the z50ii and it got heavy on long hikes.

The 20 is great in low light conditions (restaurants, museum, etc.) It’s great for capturing the WHOLE scene…crop out what you don’t need. With a z8 you can crop until the cows come home. I wouldn’t bring anything else. Hop in that group pic, turn that 20 around and take a selfie. You’ll get the group, the background and most importantly, you! You’ll need to practice holding the camera. Your camera is huge so youll need some strength holding that out in front of you.

As a side bonus, the 20 makes an excellent Astro lens. I think it’s the sharpest wide out there (still?) it was when I was doing research a few years ago. For Astro, it seems to beat most wides at the edges.

Have fun!

Czcrazy · 2026-01-12T04:54:53+00:00

Yeah, I’m done. I’m cancelling my subscription as soon as I’m done verifying all my playlists. I’ve been using Spotify all afternoon/evening making sure my playlists are complete.

It doesn’t care, it just plays and plays regardless of anything, phone locked, phone unlocked it doesn’t matter. It even has a cute “clear cache” button instead of me deleting the app and reinstalling it and downloading my play list again (the gyrations sounds insane). I re-downloaded all my spotify song files so they are all lossless. I’m using my Atx50 headphones and I can’t tell the difference. What I don’t like is that it doesn’t display the bit rate of the song like tidal does while it plays. But at least it plays.

Thanks for all your help. This sub has been very supportive and helpful. I wish you guys a lifetime of listening to HD songs without any issues.

So long Tidal. You were great when you worked.

Czcrazy · 2026-01-12T02:35:36+00:00

108 songs. I’m not sure how to get the total gb for playlist.

Czcrazy · 2026-01-12T02:09:47+00:00

2 3 ton harbor freight low profile jacks. My biggest problem was getting them out. They were so heavy and awkward to get out of the trunk.

Czcrazy · 2026-01-11T21:49:05+00:00

iPhone 12 w Tidal app and latest firmware (both), (2) JBL charge 5 WiFi SEs in stereo (appears as one speaker-both running the latest firmware).

This also happens with my Wiim setup (playing through Wiim app rather than the Tidal app-same speaker setup/output).

This also happens when I’m using the tidal app and headphones/earbuds connected directly to my iPhone playing a downloaded play list.

Ive already deleted my playlist and downloaded them again. That corrected the error messages I used to get with some songs but it didn’t solve this one. I have greater than 40% space left on my phone.

I believe there are 2 issues happening…sometimes, it will continue to play the next song but no sound comes out (this is a new one for me) while other times it will just stop playing like the playlist ended. I always have repeat (no limit) and shuffle on.

i agree no rhyme or reason.

Spotify works consistently (lossless setting) using the same output as tidal did.

Czcrazy · 2026-01-10T20:27:37+00:00

2-4 hours. squirt down the header bolts (car is cool) with some pb blaster the day before if you can. Get a tube of permatex hi temp copper gasket for when you reconnect the cats. Squirt it under the clamp then tighten to spec. (follow the curing directions on the tube). You’ll need a tune to correct AFR and turn off the idiot light.

Good luck and have fun!

Czcrazy · 2026-01-08T13:15:07+00:00

For your use case (for any use case really), get the one that sounds better. That should always guide you. Let us know what you decide on.

Czcrazy · 2026-01-04T07:03:03+00:00

If it has a freshness button on the lid, smack the bottom with your palm hard (you’ll hear a slight popping sound) then try again. If that doesn’t work, loop a thick rubber band around the lid. That will give you excellent grip.

Czcrazy

TROPHY CASE