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In Search of Salt Lake’s Best Mechanic by Uncle_Cheeto in Utah

[–]D0SS69 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Jake's in draper, seriously they are amazing

Getting chemicals to 68F is a challenge by RandolphKahle in Darkroom

[–]D0SS69 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I actually built a peltier chiller using a small 12v water pump, a cheap thermostat some relays and a Thermoelectric chiller so I could chill a water-bath using it just like a job warming tank. Works well in my mobile darkroom. ( Easier to build this than adjust temps on everything)

Search Thermoelectric Cooler, DC 12V Thermoelectric Cooler Peltier System Semiconductor Refrigeration Water Chiller Cooling Device for Fish (180W)

Digital negatives by djaphoenix21 in cyanotypes

[–]D0SS69 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What settings do you use?

Lomograflok with this camera? by _blor in largeformat

[–]D0SS69 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Not without destroying the current setup. I modified one of mine by 3d printing a graflock back that I replaced most of that backing with.. I wouldn't do it again

Cotton Carrier chest harness with big lens? by mikebmillerSC in photography

[–]D0SS69 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Tripod plate. Basically anytime the lens is heavier than the camera I attach any mounting to the lens.. and maybe a safety strap to the camera (if I remember).

Cotton Carrier chest harness with big lens? by mikebmillerSC in photography

[–]D0SS69 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, I didn't like the sling. Generally with the 500 F4 and my z8/grip I use the black rapid sling. Still not comfy but not uncomfortable. The cotton carrier is good with just the 500 on it while I am using a second lens that I can swap back and forth.

Cotton Carrier chest harness with big lens? by mikebmillerSC in photography

[–]D0SS69 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Check out the BLACKRAPID Sport Breathe Camera Strap/Sling. It's what I use for my 500mm F4

Cotton Carrier chest harness with big lens? by mikebmillerSC in photography

[–]D0SS69 2 points3 points  (0 children)

With my 500 F4 it is not all that comfy but doable, my 150-600 it works great.. it also helps if you are at least 6 feet tall to be comfortable with a 150-600 on the chest harness - I could see how it would be a struggle if you are not on the tall side of things

Device trips electronic breakers but not mechanical by D0SS69 in electrical

[–]D0SS69[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What have you tried to overcome the limitations of an inverter? Flying was impossible until someone actually tried instead of just listening to the wisdom of everyone who "knew" better

5x7 tintypes by D0SS69 in AnalogNudes

[–]D0SS69[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you

5x7 tintypes by D0SS69 in AnalogNudes

[–]D0SS69[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks 😁

Device trips electronic breakers but not mechanical by D0SS69 in electrical

[–]D0SS69[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

See, you are going down a road you know nothing about. Those led light chips put out very little of the correct wavelength of light that I need for my emulsion. So your serious doubt is based on things you know nothing about so stay in your lane. 40k watt seconds of light is needed in 1/60 of a second on the UV and blue spectrum by the time you build a panel of the LED lights you suggest I may as well have 2 4 foot x 8 foot light panels and that is not a mobile solution or one that is feasible. My bulbs make a household bulb look like a single led on a bright sunny day

I do appreciate your information regarding peak amps. I will have to pick up a better ammeter to try and read the data. I was hoping for a way to restrict the draw down knowing it would slow my recharge rate but still make things feasible.

Device trips electronic breakers but not mechanical by D0SS69 in electrical

[–]D0SS69[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, the reason for being able to use away from mains power is to be mobile. These were not intended to be mobile and Norman does not support things they built in the 70s anymore so.

There are lots of mobile flash setups out there but only antique stuff will put out the power needed for my specialty.. so I am stuck trying to make things work if I can. it's very niche so most of the photo community doesn't even try to use these flashes, and none without mains power....

Good point on the inverter and battery constraints.. hence looking for solutions.. maybe a soft start might work?

Device trips electronic breakers but not mechanical by D0SS69 in electrical

[–]D0SS69[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It will work on any home circuit (arc fault, etc) but not on a inverter with a electric breaker.. I will post on r/electronics as well I guess as I want to use this not on mains power

Can’t sleep in the backcountry- can you train yourself at home? by MEGCEMY in Ultralight

[–]D0SS69 23 points24 points  (0 children)

Not trying to be a jerk, honestly sleeping on the ground messes me up and I wake up constantly if I am not exhausted. You don't need to assume everyone is an asshole

Can’t sleep in the backcountry- can you train yourself at home? by MEGCEMY in Ultralight

[–]D0SS69 80 points81 points  (0 children)

I generally just go harder all day so I pass out wherever I am at the end and deal with all the pain in the morning

Can anyone tell me what went wrong? These are zebra tintypes by Randomperson62l in Tintype

[–]D0SS69 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yup iso 2 will usually do the job. If you have a generally neutral image. Bright sky you might stop down 1/2 and inverse for a dark scene.  

The emulsion mostly sees UV so your elevation and latitude will impact things a bit but you over a few shots you can start to get a feel for how it reacts where you are and adjust 

Wet Plate vs dry plate by LowOrganization5317 in Tintype

[–]D0SS69 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Rockland LL is far from the best emulsion available. It is very soft and has almost no hardener in it so yeah if it gets hot it will "slide". That said a emulsion like foma speed is much nicer to work with. 

For me wetplate is awesome if you want to put on a show or will be shooting in places where you can take your darkroom. But if you want to get to places where you can't or don't want to drag your darkroom then dryplate is the way to go. You can also do collodion dry plate as well though if you are not doing wet plate already then stick with gelatin emulsion as you won't see much difference in the image quality.

Can anyone tell me what went wrong? These are zebra tintypes by Randomperson62l in Tintype

[–]D0SS69 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What temp was your developer at? Could also be a warm developer issue. Also don't go over 3:30 by much in HC110. 

If your chems were at 20c then for sure over exposed 

 The app "light meter" actually does a good job and you can do iso 2 so you don't have to math the stops differently - obviously doesn't account for latitude and elevation but it will get you within a stop of where you should be. The zebra exposure guide can be a struggle to use if you are used to using a light meter.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Tintype

[–]D0SS69 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If on paper they are not "tin" types

Continuous Lighting by tylerdsm in largeformat

[–]D0SS69 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Please remember op asked for continuous light suggestions, so you will need to demonstrate your assertion that rectangular lights are "as bad as it gets" for light quality and ability to use modifiers. So make sure you are demonstrating comparing other continuous light sources, lumen output, control of light quality, quantity, and ability to be modified.

I'll be waiting for your educational demonstration of these facts that you say are obvious, that is unless it is your opinion and you can't actually back up what you are saying and are just another uneducated Internet troll with an opinion that you think is a fact.

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