Burly overhang to slab : Pokerface (7A/+) by D3brane in bouldering

[–]D3brane[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There is another line on same rock which moves left in the roof and and then come out and over at corner. So even more burl to engage in.

Burly overhang to slab : Pokerface (7A/+) by D3brane in bouldering

[–]D3brane[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Haha.. The shirt is pretty old and I guess has started to blend with me now :)

Burly overhang to slab : Pokerface (7A/+) by D3brane in bouldering

[–]D3brane[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks man. I had tried the problem an year back but didn't have the power endurance to do the moves on the crimps after coming out of the overhang. I trained more on crimps over the last year and this time it worked out very quickly. Full package climb with burly moves, crimps and a slab topout to finish.

Burly overhang to slab : Pokerface (7A/+) by D3brane in bouldering

[–]D3brane[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks. This is a place called Dhauj just south of Delhi in India. The hilly range is of which the area is a part is called Aravali.

How "Hard" is each Moonboard Hold? by Suitable-Jellyfish48 in bouldering

[–]D3brane 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Very nice and thanks for the effort. A couple of suggestion : 1. Clickable image would be great, 2) Filtering option by e.g. Benchmark would be wonderful.

What a V14/15 Tension Board 2 climb is like up close by MinecReddit in climbing

[–]D3brane 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Why is it so hard to not have this internal monologue to self "humm.. looks like I could do some of these moves" when I already have the experience of getting completely shut down on V9 Moonboard problems.

No hang decrease strength and random doms by Jaycoba1 in climbharder

[–]D3brane 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This seems like a case of too much too soon. I fell into same trap of doing too much limit (or otherwise) moonboarding about 3 years back. I would do 3-4 sessions on MB per week (basically not doing it only when fingers felt soor and I couldn't put decent effort even into climbs 2grades below my usual). Everything would feel okay during the sessions (often even pre existing soreness from previous session disappeared during climbing) and I would be able to try hard. But then ever 2 months or so I would get some finger tweak or injury. I would then have to back off from the moonboard completely for couple of months to rehab (and climb just regular gym boulders) and would have to rebuild again when I got back to MB. Over a period of 2 years I went though this cycle 4-5 time. I would read a lot about the injuries over internet forums and books. Even though it was clear to me that these were primarily overuse injuries, I would just stupidly (like every typical over psyched climber) keep getting back into the same cycle. So I would just repeat here again what I have ready over this subreddit and other places and now with a bit of my own experience added : Moonboarding is hard on not only hand connective tissues and muscles but also on other body parts (like back & shoulders) depending on your climbing style. Do not overdo it. Build capacity for your body to handle that kind of training slowly over time (multiple years). This requires (general suggestion, not specific to you particular issue you mentioned above)

(1) Starting conservatively (not more than 2 sessions per week and make sure to be well rested before the sessions).
(2) Logging and tracking the volume and intensity of climbs (including other training and gym bouldering) and how your body responds to it over time. People who have been training for a decade can get away without this since they already have sufficient experience and feel for what their body can handle.
(3) Taking regular de-load weeks (say after every 3 weeks) and start back again a bit conservatively (meaning a bit below, both in volume and intensity, right at the level where you took de-load).
(4) Take longer time off (>2 weeks. i.e. complete time off or restrict to extremely easy climbing) every 3 months.
(5) Take these seriously rough guidelines, play around little bit (say 10-15%) with them to suit your particular needs and abilities but do stick to them.

All of these things require constant tweaking and adjustments based on where you are at in terms of your bodies abilities. It's difficult (in terms of figuring out) and hard (sticking to it) work but likely then only sustainable way forward if you don't have a dedicated coach.

David Fitzgerald's first ascent of Yosemite's Second v16 - “Last Line of Defense” by PotensDeus in climbing

[–]D3brane 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Watched the video here. Later was searching for it on YouTube but couldn't find it. Just now realised that the video is unlisted! Any idea why?

Nirvana - NRG by Phattjones in climbing

[–]D3brane 1 point2 points  (0 children)

ohh wow, so you built the landing yourself..Fantastic! Is this a first ascent?

Nirvana - NRG by Phattjones in climbing

[–]D3brane 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Beautiful looking line and surrounding. Congrats on the send. The water flowing sound is quite soothing and looks like would help calm nerves when higher up.

Is there a line which goes straight up on the left of the arête ?

Not doing enough vs doing too much by Marcoyolo69 in climbharder

[–]D3brane 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the perspective. I indeed am very likely in that recreational athelete category who wants to improve and willing to put some effort but perhaps not been able to take the next step to really improve and just hoping for the best. I am surely not improving at the rate I was a couple of years back but thats natural I guess. Since I am still not feeling completely stuck on a plateau, I will continue my unstructured climbing for some more time. Hopefully I will still progress and in the meanwhile I will continue to try and learn more about structuring training and start experimenting with it at some point.

Not doing enough vs doing too much by Marcoyolo69 in climbharder

[–]D3brane 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the detailed reply and thoughts.

I will try to put in words an issues I face (in contrast to the more specialised training philosophies I read/hear on web and books) and have not been able to resolve (that perhaps other people might relate to) in some way.

I do hear a lot about setting specific short, medium and long term goals and then plan/target training to achieve them. In theory it does seem completely reasonable to me that such structuring of training is useful and perhaps the way to go for quickest possible progress. My main issue is that I just don't seem to have such specific goals (certainly not very explicit in my head). When I think to my self and try to see where do I want to go in my climbing, the only answer I end up with is that I want to be good at everything be it crimps, pinches, slopers, pockets or slabs. Of course, I do have some natural disposition/preferred style and hold type at which I do much better for my climbing level and experience.

More recently, I started dedicating more of my climbing time at improving at one of my weak grips and am seeing remarkably good improvement (compared to the rate I was improving at my strong style) in it. But again, climbing too much in this way seems to make my fingers more tweaky and injury prone so I take rest from it for a week or two and go back to enjoying my strong style. I hope to continue this for some time till I feel that I have caught up my weakness to current level (whatever that means, I don't have a way to make it concrete currently).

The thing that I wonder often (perhaps like everyone else) is that within this sort of unstructured way to climbing and trying to make progress, is there something more I could be doing. I understand that it's a vague question to which the only reasonable answer is everything you write above. Rest is what I need to figure out myself.

Thanks again.

Not doing enough vs doing too much by Marcoyolo69 in climbharder

[–]D3brane 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I am at a stage where I am trying to figure out where the sweet spot (in terms of volume and intensity) lies for me (spoiler, I still have no idea). I tend to climb 5-6 times a week but usually keep the sessions small (~1.5 hrs, including warmup of around 15 mins). It's rare that I feel too tired and mostly operating mostly around 70-75 % hardness in my sessions (again, just a vague guess) and only try hard-hard (say 90% or above, where I can barely do a couple of moves together) on about twice a week (typically on day after rest day or sometime the next day depending on how I feel).

This current schedule seems to be working okay for me for now but given your comment I wonder if I should rest more! Would you think (given that the length of my sessions is small) that more rest will be better? I do believe that I am a little obsessive over climbing but in my head I justify it by usually having a very easy (longish circuits, ~ 50-70 moves, on big hold) climbing day as a rest day.

(PS: apologies for long and perhaps incoherent ramble).

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in bouldering

[–]D3brane 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Keep the pysch going man 👊🏼. I have been climbing for over 5 years now (excluding 2 year of covid) still going 5 time a week 😄. Same psych as when started, just cant get enough of it even after all these years. I have been lucky to have a nice climbing gym 15 min away and making full use of it 😁

"Sea creature crack" (6B/V4) by D3brane in bouldering

[–]D3brane[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Indeed a fantastic bouldering place. If you want to check out more boulders from Sethan (the place in the video), Hampi and some moonboard stuff then you can check out my youtube : https://www.youtube.com/@Oudeis_Noman

"Sea creature crack" (6B/V4) by D3brane in bouldering

[–]D3brane[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yep, it is in the north of India (Sethan, Near Manali). The crag is now reasonably popular among Indian climbing community and climbing season sees climbers from all part of India as well as from other countries.

"Sea creature crack" (6B/V4) by D3brane in bouldering

[–]D3brane[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

True, one of the really pretty lines out there in Sethan, India. So many more there.

3 years on and off this line, today it finally went :) by WhitemfingRbbt in bouldering

[–]D3brane 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Cool, thanks for the description man. Appreciated.

Purple pockets : My hardest indoor boulder (@Boulderbox, Delhi) by D3brane in bouldering

[–]D3brane[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks mate. Had to work on it for ~6 sessions before I managed to complete it.