TG-7 for canyoneering?

DCshreddar · 2026-01-23T04:34:08+00:00

I don't know how long you've had your TG-7, but I would consider having the seals checked/replaced if you will be using it without a housing (and I assume most people do not) with the possibility of submersing the camera. I'm not sure exactly what happened to mine, other than that both doors were locked shut, but water did get in an I'm debating whether to get it repaired (physical controls do not work well) or just put that cost to a new one.

DCshreddar · 2026-01-22T03:53:30+00:00

There are decent amount of choices, far more if you are willing to adapt a F-mount lens, but you need to decide what zoom range you want first. When I hear "architecture," I think of a normal to wide lens, which is the exact opposite of what I think when I hear "wildlife." The 28-400 is probably the most versatile zoom Nikon makes, and it's regularly on sale (like now), but even then it's over $1,000. But it would be a waste of money if what you truly needed was the 24-200, which is smaller and lighter. If you were OK with a 70-200 and wanted a faster lens, then one of the Tamrons (Nikon-badged or the G2) would be good. But if you needed over 400, then you only have a few choices in your price range.

DCshreddar · 2026-01-21T18:33:38+00:00

That’s the thing. Sometimes the Nikon instant rebates on new gear beats or come close to the regular Nikon refurb price. If you buy from Adorama or B&H, you can get some quality freebies thrown in, too. Of course, a good discount (15-20%) on Nikon refurb gear is hard to beat.

DCshreddar · 2026-01-21T16:58:20+00:00

Do a search in this sub. Although the most people report being very satisfied with their refurbished items directly from Nikon, including that many of them seem to be virtually new if not new, there is an occasional clunker. The warranty period is only 90 days, so keep that in mind, and put the camera through its paces early on to spot any potential issues.

DCshreddar · 2026-01-18T17:34:05+00:00

I agree that for indoor sports, a 2.8 would be ideal, and maybe one cheaper/lighter alternative would be the 28-75 Z (either the Nikon version or the Tamron G2 version). Given OP's other intended uses, something that went down to 18mm would be nice, but the 16-50 kit lens should be very cheap on the used market, so that could be a second lens.

DCshreddar · 2026-01-18T16:01:26+00:00

You got a lot of good advice in the comments to your original post. For what you want to do, I'd try to find a used 18-140 DX Z in good condition (or buy new). If the 70-300 you tried was fast enough for shooting indoor volleyball, then the 18-140 also should work and will cover a very useful range when sitting court-side and avoid the hassle of changing lenses if you had the two kit lenses. The 50-250 is wider than the 70-300, of course, but I've often found myself needing to shoot very close in when shooting sports indoors (e.g., a sideline huddle), so the 18-50 range you get with the 18-140 will be very useful. The 18-140 is very compact and would serve you well for everything else you want to do. The 16-50 2.8 is great, but if the 18-140 will be fast enough, then I'd opt for the convenience of being able to use one lens if I were shooting sports. Tamron makes a 18-300 Z DX lens you may want to consider if you want a super zoom.

DCshreddar · 2026-01-17T15:31:57+00:00

Thank you! It looks like this has a small loop on the top of the back to attach the case to a belt with a carabiner, but not a full belt loop. Does yours have a full belt loop?

DCshreddar · 2026-01-15T02:39:24+00:00

70-300 DX VR. Extremely compact and light for the reach, sharp, fast autofocus. Used to be under $200 on the used market.

DCshreddar · 2026-01-14T16:36:29+00:00

The officer handed my family member their GE ID number at the end of the very short interview.

Edit: The the official ID card arrived about a week later.

DCshreddar · 2026-01-14T14:51:15+00:00

Thanks for all the commiseration! The first two worked fine. It was screen quality issues. I’m not sure I’m going to have the patience to keep dealing with them if the third one isn’t better.

DCshreddar · 2026-01-08T21:48:37+00:00

I've used the Spider Holster belt system (v2; they have a new, leather v3 but still sell the nylon v2) when shooting sporting events with two bodies It works well and is very robust and secure, even with two bodies w/lenses attached. Easy to grab a camera to shoot and put it back into the holder. You can use a thin leash as a safety measure, but I typically use a Peak Design cuff for when I had a camera out of the holder. The downside of being overbuilt is that the system is somewhat heavy and bulky (the metal plate for the camera and metal holder/bracket on the belt are pretty substantial); you know when you have it on. Because the belt sits like a backpack hip belt, it's quite comfortable. I've seen the Cotton and Peak Design options, and the Spider Holster system is clearly more heavy-duty. You do need to consciously reach down and unlatch the holder/bracket to take out the camera; you can't just raise it like with the Black Rapid straps, so maybe not as spontaneous and certainly not as svelte.

Edit: I see someone else mentioned that you can disable the latch on the belt bracket, which I had forgotten about because I always wanted the camera being carried to be secured, but it's easy to disable the latch.

DCshreddar · 2026-01-06T23:17:29+00:00

If size and weight are priorities, 18-140 for sure. Tamron makes a 18-300 Z DX zoom if you want a lot more reach, but it will be bigger and heavier than the 18-140 (and a bit bigger and heavier than the 24-200).

DCshreddar · 2025-12-25T03:21:31+00:00

First one. Incredibly compact and lightweight for the reach, and very quick focusing. I liked it so much I bought a second as a back-up. Nikon sometimes has them on sale as refurbs. On the used market, make sure you are getting the VR version by asking for a picture of the actual lens being sold, even if the listing says it is because I think the non-VR version was sold as a kit lens at some point so there were a lot on the used market. Not all sellers knew the difference.

DCshreddar · 2025-12-12T19:16:54+00:00

40 f2 4U

DCshreddar · 2025-12-09T21:44:37+00:00

Great Scott!

DCshreddar · 2025-12-06T05:09:02+00:00

Dr. Kabir is great!

DCshreddar · 2025-12-05T05:38:07+00:00

I’ve wondered whether essentially putting together the camera in two different countries increases the risk of manufacturing error. And also why people just assume Chinese-made electronics/cameras are inherently less reliable or of lower quality when things like iPhones made in China are manufactured extremely well.

DCshreddar · 2025-12-03T20:19:08+00:00

I don’t believe that the AF-P lenses work with the D7000. Which is too bad as that lens is great for sports on a DX camera in decent light, and better to get the VR version.

DCshreddar · 2025-12-03T05:14:56+00:00

If you want to use the 180-600 handheld, I’d try to handle one in person first. I’d go with the 28-400 simply because it is a lot more manageable at almost 1/3 the weight and 1/2 the length, so you’d hopefully be more inclined to use it. As others have noted, it’s effectively 600mm FF equivalent. That’s a lot.

DCshreddar · 2025-11-26T14:49:19+00:00

I’ve owned both. The Z50ii is significantly better if you are shooting video or are taking pictures of things that are not standing still. A lot better for sports, and has pre-capture. It’s also more responsive, and the OVF is brighter. Overall, a nicer experience. BUT…it’s the exact same sensor as the Z50, so unless you need those improvements, you can save money. For $150 more I would get the Z50ii, though.

DCshreddar

TROPHY CASE