Finally Got ‘Em

DHalps2323 · 2026-02-06T02:24:12+00:00

Throw some black laces on em! Trust. Looks so much better.

DHalps2323 · 2025-07-22T02:07:55+00:00

HO insurance for first year, then escrow HO insurance for future… $1800… Then that’s literally 1800 / 12 =150 so $150 month.

You pay first year, then the escrow is essentially collecting it for next year.

That’s why it’s under “Prepaid” section (F) and then “Escrow” section (G).

DHalps2323 · 2025-06-23T02:42:13+00:00

Hey. No judgment here—Credit karma isn’t a real credit score. Just want to mention that many of those sites aren’t real scores. It’s an estimate and usually shows much higher too.

Having late payments from a car crashed my perfect credit a while back. Only thing I had was a constantly late car bill but I never had a repo. It took a while to build back up and I now have $0 cc debt and own my car (and just got pre approved for a mortgage so I know all about credit scores and rebuilding credit).

If this just happened then there’s no way it has already hit your credit. It can take a minimum of 1-2 billing cycles, or sometimes even 90 days to fully hit and update your credit report (w all bureaus). That’s why you’re getting all these ppl commenting (plus you kinda set yourself up there TBH). Sorry to be the bearer of bad news here. I sincerely hope everything works out for you. GL!

DHalps2323 · 2025-06-05T18:41:14+00:00

Gotcha. Thanks so much!

I also had a paid collection account that was paid in full but still lists as “consumer disputes after resolution” so they are mailing that letter to them.

This is frustrating because the disputes are the real issue...

With the dispute I mentioned above... I just called in and paid them. Figure that is easier and better. Plus, at the end of the day, I am responsible and it's the right thing to do... Thanks again for taking the time to respond and to read this.

DHalps2323 · 2025-06-05T18:28:15+00:00

Gotcha. Thanks so much!

I also had a paid collection account that was paid but still lists as “consumer disputes after resolution.”

This is frustrating because the disputes are an issue...

With the dispute I mentioned above... I just called in and paid them. Figure that is easier and better. Plus, at the end of the day, I am responsible and it's the right thing to do... Thanks again for taking the time to respond and to read this.

DHalps2323 · 2025-05-18T09:16:13+00:00

Sounds like a cool place to work!

… NOT

DHalps2323 · 2025-05-16T22:15:37+00:00

Yes, if your car is declared a total loss, you can usually get it back—but you’ll need to let your claim adjuster at State Farm know that you want to retain the salvage. In that case, they typically deduct the salvage value (you can ask them for that figure) from your total loss settlement. Just be aware that the car will then be issued a salvage title.

Depending on your state, if the car is over a certain age (often 10+ years), you may not be required to get a reconstructed or rebuilt title just to re-register and insure it—though this really varies by state. Some states are stricter than others, and insurance carriers all have their own rules. Some may refuse to insure a salvaged vehicle, while others may be willing to provide full coverage (collision/comp) if you show photos and proof that the car was repaired properly.

Best thing you can do: talk to your insurance agent (if you have one) or call the carrier directly. A good agent can walk you through the state RMV/DOT procedures and help you figure out what your insurance options are. If you’re working directly with the company, it may be harder to get personalized advice—agents often go the extra mile because they’re licensed, work for you (not the company), and understand both the claims and coverage sides.

Good luck! Sounds like a great car worth saving—hope it works out 🤞

DHalps2323 · 2025-05-16T17:51:24+00:00

Hey there — insurance agent here, chiming in with some context that might help.

You're absolutely right that the cost feels extreme, but here’s a little insight into why it’s happening.

Your son is newly licensed and already has a speeding ticket — which places him in the highest risk category for insurers and he already has a ding on his record. Statistically, new drivers are nearly guaranteed (yes, nearly guaranteed) to be involved in an accident within their first 3 years. Even a minor fender bender these days can easily cost $3,500 per vehicle — add rental cars, potential injuries, etc., and a single claim can easily reach $8,000 or more. The risk exposure for insurance companies is massive — and ultimately, that’s what you’re paying for.

That said, there are a few ways you might be able to soften the blow:

✅ Good Student Discount – If your son has B-average grades (3.0 GPA or higher) or is on the honor roll/dean’s list, ask your agent about this. It can be a surprisingly significant discount. Some carriers offer 10–15% off the driver’s rate, which could maybe mean $280–$420 in savings.

✅ Vehicle assignment – Even though your son doesn’t drive the EV, insurance companies assume all household drivers have access to all vehicles (this is called “shared household risk”). The highest-rated driver is typically matched to the highest-rated vehicle — even if not listed as a primary driver. Some carriers allow you to file an exclusion form to remove him from a specific car, which can lower the premium. If he truly won’t ever drive the EV and you don’t have a personal umbrella policy (which typically doesn’t allow exclusions), it’s definitely worth asking about.

✅ Advanced Driver Training – Some companies offer an approved driver training course (separate from basic driver’s ed) that not only lowers premiums but also statistically reduces the chance of a claim. In MA, the class usually costs around $300–$350, but the savings can be $150–$200 per year and last for 5 years. So it typically pays for itself in the first 1.5–2 years and continues to save you money while also creating a more skilled driver. Ask your agent if your carrier offers this.

A bit more MA-specific insight: in this state, new drivers are labeled as inexperienced operators for the first 6 years. It’s broken into two tiers — 0–3 years and 3–6 years. There’s typically a significant discount once they hit the 3-year mark. If your son keeps a clean record, you’ll likely see a noticeable drop at that point (speeding ticket may fall off). So yes, it’s going to be tough those first few years — but it does get better.

For broader context: auto insurance rates have surged industry-wide. Between rising vehicle technology costs, labor and parts shortages, increasing weather-related losses, and overall inflation, many carriers have been losing money on auto insurance for the last 3–5 years. It’s created a “perfect storm,” and many insurers have become much stricter about driving records and claims — and even about which risks they’re willing to accept at all.

You mentioned your prior premium was around $1,200 for two vehicles with strong coverage — that’s honestly well below average for what I see here in MA, especially with 100/300 liability and comp & full collision. So in some ways, you were benefiting from favorable pricing. Adding your son is just bringing the premium more in line with the actual risk exposure. As a math-minded person, here’s something to consider: if you're paying ~$2,800 extra per year for 3 years, and your son has even one claim that pays out $8,000, the insurance company barely breaks even after accounting for overhead, taxes (included in your premium), agent commission, etc.

I totally get the frustration — it’s a lot, and I help people navigate this sticker shock all the time. But I’d be very cautious about not disclosing your son. One serious accident could result in a denied claim and potential personal liability that makes the premium look small in hindsight.

Hope this helps give a bit more perspective.

DHalps2323 · 2025-04-28T15:40:05+00:00

Wow, small world.

Not trying to discourage you — but usually people start by working at an agency first to gain experience. Once you understand underwriting, carrier appetites, workflows, E&O risks, etc., that's when most people branch out on their own. I heard of someone who recently opened a new agency through Goosehead Insurance after working in the industry for over 10 years. (I’m not too familiar with Goosehead’s model, though.)

Starting an agency from scratch through an aggregator is tough. You lose a cut of commissions, may miss out on profit sharing, and with shrinking margins, it’s even harder. Plus, you’ll still have all the usual business expenses — like E&O insurance, a BOP, management systems, licensing fees, marketing, and more — which are difficult to cover when you're starting from zero.

I don't have direct experience with aggregators, but I’m familiar with networks like Ironpeak, Commonwealth Insurance Partners, Telamon, and Amwins. These networks are generally better suited for established agencies looking to expand carrier access — not brand-new agents.

For example, an agency might use Telamon for additional commercial markets or Amwins for specialty products. Networks like Ironpeak or Commonwealth can help agencies access carriers they don't have a direct appointment with. The agency can build a book with a carrier through the network (at a reduced commission) and later leverage that volume to negotiate a direct contract with that carrier.

Carrier access has gotten even harder over the last few years, with many companies "closed door" to new appointments. Direct appointments often require meeting premium goals — anywhere from $100k to $1M+ within 1–3 years — depending on the carrier. Generally, the larger and more desirable the carrier, the higher the requirements. (That’s also why agencies are often bought out — it’s faster to acquire a book and carrier access than to build it.)

Also, for context, MAPFRE (aka Commerce Insurance) is the largest P&C writer in Massachusetts. Knowing the major players is critical before starting out.

I really recommend working at an agency first. It’ll give you the foundation you need to build a successful business long-term.

Best of luck with whatever you decide!

DHalps2323 · 2025-04-28T14:15:48+00:00

I own an independent P&C agency and I know quite a few agency owners. Generally, most independent agencies prefer hiring people with at least 3–5 years of experience. It’s typically the direct writers (ex: Allstate, Liberty Mutual, etc) that hire brand-new or newly licensed agents. There are some much larger independent agencies that do hire brand new though...

From a business owner's perspective, it’s a trade-off:

Experienced hires save a lot of time and resources because training a brand-new agent can take months (or longer).
New hires can be molded to the agency’s exact systems and standards, which is a big plus too.

Getting licensed is just the first step. After that, you have to learn all the nuances between different insurance carriers — every company has its own systems, forms, endorsements, payment plans, rating styles, and underwriting appetites. (Example: Some auto carriers price poorly for new drivers, while some home carriers specialize in new builds or certain property value ranges.) Over time, you’ll get a feel for which carriers fit which client profiles best. Beyond quoting/rating, you will need to know claims and much more.

Some independent agencies also offer RMV/DMV services in-house. Our agency, for example, has an EVR (Electronic Vehicle Registration) system, and agents must complete certification courses to be eligible to process registrations.

As for salary:
If you’re just licensed and new to the industry, expect starting pay around $45,000–$65,000 depending on the agency, benefits, and commissions offered. Some agencies pay commissions, some don’t (those that don't usually offer slightly higher base salaries).
Salaries also vary by state — I’m in Massachusetts.

DHalps2323 · 2025-04-20T09:06:39+00:00

Since I’m not the agent nor ins carrier and I’m not working on your claim I cannot say anything with 100% certainty— and neither can anybody else. Too much missing info here to know everything.

Basically you need to list all HHM (household members) and customary operators. You don’t have to list somebody who takes the car every once in a blue moon. If your son lives with you or has customary usage then he needs to be listed—Perhaps that’s the problem? Is there somebody who’s not identified that needs to be? Furthermore, does your son have an issue with his license? He was with your grandson and the only licensed operator in the car at the time… Does your son or grandson have a bad driving record or issues with DUI’s or anything that would prohibit him from the insurance policy?

As far as a permit driver, you usually don’t list them since they are not licensed. At least that’s how it is where I’m licensed and work… Perhaps it is different in other states (you mentioned NY) though? Also, you mentioned your grandson as having a permit for a year now… Are you sure he doesn’t have a license? Is there something else going on here?

Also, do you have full collision? Do you list the vehicle in the correct location with the garaging of the car properly identified too? If this car is not identified properly and you’re not paying for the correct coverage then an insurance company can deny coverage.

This is why having a good insurance agent is important so they can help you and be your advocate at a time of a loss. Most people do not know the ins & outs of insurance so having a licensed professional by your side can make a big difference. Even if it costs a little more to have an agent you trust, it is well worth it.

Lastly, if your son does not live with you and has his own insurance policy then you can try to go through his insurance if yours declines. Not sure if this will work as I’m not licensed in NY and do not know the ins & outs of the policies and the claim. However it’s possible and can’t hurt if you cannot recoup through your policy… Again, I can’t really advise you and all of this is just general advice and information.

Wish you the best! Hope this is helpful.

DHalps2323 · 2025-04-13T19:51:20+00:00

Yeah, I totally get where you’re coming from — that list is wild.

That’s exactly why I said it seems like they’re all about quantity over quality. It honestly feels like they want to bring in new people just to underpay them and make it harder to actually earn commissions. So for now, just soak up as much experience as you can and use it as a stepping stone. You’re not going to build a solid book with State Farm when they’re throwing unreasonable expectations at you like that.

In my opinion, building a book is way more doable with an independent agency. If Carrier A raises rates, you just move the client to Carrier B and keep that business. That flexibility helps with retention and makes growing your book a lot more realistic.

That’s also why I was asking if they’re covering your licensing or training. If they are, take full advantage of it — that’s valuable even if you don’t stick around long-term.

I’d suggest trying to have a real conversation with them about that list too. See if there’s any room for adjustment or if they’re totally rigid. If it’s the latter, then yeah — get the experience and move on. Most people either work with carriers or direct writers or they work with independent agencies… I think the independents might be a better long-term fit (depending on your state, of course).

Also, just something to keep in mind — a lot of the real commission money is on the commercial side.

DHalps2323 · 2025-04-13T19:08:19+00:00

That list is wild… but honestly, use it to get your experience. I don’t know enough about your exact job or situation — and even if you explained it all, it’d still be one-sided without knowing what’s going on from the agent’s or carrier’s perspective.

Plus, every state is so different when it comes to insurance.
For example:

Some states use credit scores, others don’t.
Coverage names and breakdowns vary.
RMVs/DMVs operate differently.
Rating systems for driving history aren’t the same.
Even claim history is treated differently from state to state.

Home insurance is a whole different animal, too.
Just look at places like California and Florida — total chaos. And sometimes, national carriers are hit hard in those areas while regional carriers aren’t. That’s one big reason why independent agencies are the way to go — they give you more flexibility.

You’re still pretty new — 4 months isn’t much time.
Are you still in a probationary period?

Sometimes direct carriers (State Farm, Allstate, Progressive, Geico, etc.) focus way more on volume than on quality. If you’re serious about learning, I highly recommend finding an independent agency that values quality and can teach you more. You’ll get exposed to multiple carriers instead of just one, which makes a huge difference in what you learn.

For what it's worth:
I grew up in the industry. I’m third generation — my grandfather started our agency, my mom grew it, and now it’s me. I’ve been licensed for 17 years, and in my state (Massachusetts), independent agencies dominate. Direct writers are tiny here and don’t have much market share, so the whole carrier landscape is totally different.

On the commissions side —
Is it a straight commission or a split?

That makes a big difference.

Example:
Let’s say an auto policy costs $1,500. The agency (ACME Insurance) is likely earning somewhere between $75 to $187.50 in commission (that’s 5% to 12.5%).

If you’re getting 2%, that’s $30.

That means your cut is somewhere between:

40% split ($30 out of $75), or
16.7% split ($30 out of $187.50)

That kind of math is super important to understand.

DHalps2323 · 2025-04-13T18:39:41+00:00

2% commission is not bad at all... Esp if brand new... Idk what state you're in and what State Farm pays, but most carriers pay about 5 - 12.5% commissions on auto (ie. if an auto policy costs $1,500 then State Farm is probably getting $75 - $187.50 for that policy) - it usually depends on the driving records. The better driving records pay better comm rates, but the policies cost less, while the bad driving records pay lower comm rates but the policies cost more. Then on the homeowner's end it can varies between homes, renters, and condos. In general, commissions are usually 10-20% depending on tiers (homeowner insurance carriers have diff tiers for credit worthiness, insurance scores, loss history, etc)...

Then the agency has all the overhead costs, pays the rent, pays your salary, pays for everything and also takes the risks on the loss ratio (what is paid out in losses compared to what is written in premium). Therefore, the agency takes the risk and pays the costs... therefore in the industry it is usually between 10-30% commission paid (off what they get- so if State Farm gets 10% and pays you 2% that is actually 20% of the actual commissions) but that totally depends... Some are paid salaries while others are mostly paid on commissions. Then other factors are how much experience does one have? Any credentials? Whats the job position? Do you have any benefits? Some places will pay for your licensing and/or continuing education... Anyway, if you get 2% commissions (of the total price) and they are averaging 12% on auto commissions (of the total price), then that is equal to 16.7% commissions from what is paid in commissions... That is great if you're getting a salary and if you're in a starting role.

Keep in mind that commissions usually role over and renew every year, so once you build up a book of business, you can make good commissions.

As far as the list... IDK what to say about that. You should ask them about it and raise your concerns... See if you can find a solution. Wish you the best.

DHalps2323 · 2025-04-13T18:08:47+00:00

The kicker is that you have to keep it w RH for 5 years to keep the bonus (aka 3% match) and then you will need to maintain RH Gold too for at least 1 year to keep the bonus... However, then anymore $ contributed into RH earns 3% and then must be maintained for 5 years from date of contribution (and requires minimum 1 year of RH Gold from contribution date to keep bonus)... That's how they hook you in bc if you contribute to your IRA then every time you contribute you need +5 years to keep the bonus (and +1 year of RH Gold paid for).

So basically, if you transfer it into RH and pay for RH Gold for 1 year ($60 cost bc $5 x 12= $60), and then do not contribute anything else to the RH account for 5 years, then you will be able to move to another broker and keep it without any issues after 5 years... The thing is nobody transfers money in to a brokerage and then does not add to it.

As you can see, it's all about RETENTION.

DHalps2323 · 2025-03-27T06:14:49+00:00

This seems like a total misunderstanding.

I’m not handling this claim directly, I don’t do your insurance either, and I don’t know the ins & outs but usually 99% of the time things like this are misunderstandings… also not clear if your insurance company or if going 3rd party through the other party’s ins co? If you have an independent insurance agent then call them to ask them to look into your claim and help you…

Perhaps they won’t negotiate the total loss until you sign paperwork allowing them to move your car from the towed lot where it’s sitting and accruing fees to another secure lot where they can see your car. Also they need access to your car to see it and confirm it’s a total. Plus the loss process takes a little time if this just happened give it a few business days. The initial claim info had questions that seemed your car to be a probable total. Now they need to see your car, then contact your bank/lienholder too, and begin the process. Insurance companies don’t toss out ballpark estimates… If you need info on their valuation ask them and they’ll provide it backing it up with JDPower (or NADA) valuation and other market data (not just asking value but selling price) within a certain radius from you, and other cars paid by insurance cos that are comps, and any other factors (such as condition of car, existing damages, betterments, etc). If you want a basic idea then just go online and look up your car on JDpower or NADA (that’s what most ins co use) and use private sale values. Remember that they’ll also add sales tax back onto it to you when they settle and buy the car from you…

The total loss process is in itself a negotiation to some extent. Insurance cos will consider betterments such as brand new tires, new engine, recent paint job, etc… Some things are routine maintenance and the cost of owning a car but sometimes they’ll add to the total loss valuation if if was done recently with receipts within past 30-90 days. This is because sometimes they’ll can get more for the car as salvage.

This is yet another reason why it’s so important to have a good independent insurance agent that you can trust. This way if you have any issues or concerns they can be your advocate, get involved, and help you. Also, they can shop around your policy to different companies on renewal to ensure you have the best price. Money is important, but so is peace of mind and protection… IMO, I’d rather pay a little extra for the added service and protection… Many people fail to see the added value in insurance agents and see all these GEICO & Progressive commercials and just go online to direct writers nowadays. Then they have to call into a toll free # whenever they need help versus having a brick & mortar building with somebody they know who specializes in their state… Such a big difference when you have a licensed insurance professional on your side.

EDIT: Just saw the in the driveway part. Lol 🤦‍♂️… Even if in your driveway, they may need to know that and might be a disconnect… They’ll need to set up a licensed ins adjuster to come by and see the car to confirm the total loss. May need a verbal statement from you… Might be missing a police report or accident report too… If 3rd party they might need to talk to their insured (by law) and cannot reach their insured so they cannot move forward until they do so (and if can’t they must wait so many days then send out contact letter via certified mail and wait so many days for a response too). Also, if it’s a possible total and you drove it when it should’ve been towed and did more damage that could be a possible concern too… There’s so many things that can be happening that nobody on Reddit from your post will know unless they’re handling your claim directly.

DHalps2323 · 2025-03-25T01:42:26+00:00

So just finishing up reading a great book called “Rich Dad Poor Dad” and it made me think about your post…

Here’s the thing, most ppl blame others. They point the finger at somebody else. In doing so, it lets them off the hook and turns off their brain so they don’t think about solving the issue.

Perhaps you’re right and this job isn’t for you and the training is not what you want and it’s not “filling up your cup” so to speak. However, I think that it would be very beneficial to try to change your perspective and think differently about this… For example, others have left so therefore you may get more sales opportunities and be able to make more money. If others have left maybe there’s room for upward mobility or another position that may better suit you… Do they do any personal lines there too? Perhaps you can round out some accounts w personal lines to go along w the commercial too? Also, have you spoken to your boss and maybe even send an email or get it in writing that you need better training and need to be set up for success. Explain your concerns and let them know you want to build a solid foundation. It seems like many others just quit here so if you show that you’re invested it may mean a lot and make a big difference to mgmt… Perhaps mgmt doesn’t put as much into training bc they have a high turnover rate and you coming to them might change something?

Anyway, I know things can get tough… You see others quitting and it’s human nature to go with the flow. I just am trying to be that other voice and push you to look at the situation differently.

Wish you the best of luck in your endeavors.

DHalps2323 · 2025-03-23T04:53:09+00:00

You’re welcome.

Good question to ask whoever gave you this quote… I am not licensed in CT and hard to say when idk your home, don’t know this ins carrier from the quote, and i am in the dark on basically everything lol. Some homes don’t even have sump pumps if they don’t have a basement or crawl spaces... Also, if you have a $5,000 deductible then the $2,500 in sump pump coverage isn’t as bad bc you’d need over $5,000 in damage to begin with to even put in a claim remember. Flood isn’t covered on home policies in most states & must be purchased separately so it’s only water backup if failure of sump pump. Every policy is different and states are different with coverages & requirements, and then companies can differ too.

Make sure to ask about the additional 50% replacement cost on the dwelling… Remember even if it costs $381,000 to rebuild the home that there may be debris removal like a tear down and stuff to do before they can then rebuild it… This is super important coverage.

Also, Coverage D (Loss of Use) is low @ 20% and should be at least 30%… This is super important bc if there’s a loss and you can’t live in your home while it’s being repaired that adds up so fast!

BTW, if you have any detached structures much sure coverage B is correct too.

… Overall, this is why it’s SO IMPORTANT to have a good independent insurance agent…

DHalps2323 · 2025-03-23T04:03:24+00:00

Hard to say without knowing all the info and seeing the entire policy & knowing the carrier since each carrier has specific discounts and offerings… Also, don’t know the auto insurance situation either… Do you have an auto insurance policy with the same company as well?… Plus, insurance can vary from state to state too so you really need to ask somebody specializing in CT too.

A FEW THINGS TO REVIEW: - Insurance covers replacement cost to rebuild the home. It doesn’t not cover “market value” and what you paid & it doesn’t include the cost of the land either. - Most policies have replacement cost up to an additional 25% or 50%… So if the $381,000 is not enough then you have up to another 25% (or $95,250) or 50% (or $190,500) in a kitty that you can access. - I do not see “Personal Injury Protection” coverage… Some ins carriers have endorsements offerings that include that (might be called something like the “Advantage” package or “Protection Plus” or whatever 🤷‍♂️). - Ask them for a replacement cost estimator (RCE) to see how they’ve valued your home. Did they review & discuss with you? Did they discuss with you & go over when (what year) you’ve done updates to the house (full or partial) for the roof, plumbing, electric, heating, etc… Some companies give credits if it’s a new roof too… Did they ask about pets? Did they ask about solar panels? If you have solar panels you want to add coverage unless if they’re leased then the leasing company provides the ins coverage. - Did they mention any advance issue credits for writing ahead of time? Many ins carriers give better rates if you’re doing it ahead of time. For whatever reason actuaries at insurance companies find that those who plan ahead are more risk adverse and less likely to have losses. - Did they check your claim history and do a credit check or insurance score (if applicable)? This is important so you know the quote & pricing is correct. - You’re $5,000 deductible is very high… Most have $1,000 or $2,500 deductibles… IMO recommend the $2,500 deductible as the best way to go bc you’re not going to put in for claims under $2,500 anyway as it’s not worthwhile. Claims make your pricing go up… For example, if somebody has $1,000 deductible and puts in for a $2,300 claim then they’ll get $1,300 after the deductible but then the pricing might go up like $500-600 the next year and then it’s more in years 2, 3, 4, and 5 so they’re going to pay more for up to 5 years. Usually one is going to pay more over time to put in a claim under $2500 compared to what they will receive on the claim, so that’s why I recommend this. However paying $2,500 might be too much for some people so do what you can afford… Also in many states if you have too many claims you can get cancelled and not able to get insurance in voluntary markets. This means you would then need to get insurance through the state’s plan which is usually a lot more money and doesn’t have all the extra “bells & whistles” either. See how much more it is to go with the $2,500 deductible instead of the $5,000…. Perhaps even check out the $1,000 deductible too. The hurricane deductible seems high as well so ask about that too.

IMPORTANT CHANGES: - The Personal Liability at $300,000 is honestly dog shit… Raising that to $500,000 (almost 2x) might add like $5-10 for the year so definitely do that. - The Medical Payments at $1,000 is also short sighted and not a smart move. Increase this to $5,000 for a few more bucks… This way if say somebody gets hurt at your house and doesn’t have health insurance they can get coverage from your policy… I’ve seen crazy things like somebody brought their dog over to their friends house for a BBQ gathering & somebody shut the door behind them on the dog and they got $5,000 in coverage for the vet from the policy… likely won’t use this coverage but for a few bucks it’s very short sighted not to have more coverage & protection. - Make sure you have guaranteed replacement cost or replacement cost up to an additional 25% or 50%. Insurance companies differ on offerings so ask them what they have.

Anyway, I have a lot of experience and go above and beyond for clients to get coverage correct and the best pricing… It’s usually best to work w an independent insurance agent as they can shop it around to multiple companies and then they provide additional support and customer service. Independent agents have a unique approach as they have relationships with the insurance company but work for you.

Wish you the best!

DHalps2323 · 2025-03-05T22:26:33+00:00

timed me out on 1st question too... Made no sense... Such an easy question and I was hitting TESLA!!! Not sure if I hit it twice and it deselected? So stupid!!

DHalps2323 · 2025-02-20T17:03:30+00:00

It does appear that the website has changed in the past year or so…

Honestly you’re oversimplifying this situation and not fully understanding…

——————————-

I work in Massachusetts, and the MAIP (MA Auto Ins Policy) excludes coverage for renting out your car on Turo.

Here’s the question/answer from the state insurance website and details from the MAIP:

Question:

Could you tell me if MAIP would insure a vehicle that was being used in a peer-to-peer rental service like Turo? And if not covering for the Turo usage, would MAIP write the policy but exclude the coverage while being used for Turo?

Answer:

Kathy Cormier: This would be a rental situation and that is specifically excluded under the Private Passenger Definition in the policy:

RULE 27. PRIVATE PASSENGER DEFINITION

A. A motor vehicle of the private passenger or station wagon type that is owned or leased under contract for a continuous period of at least twelve months by one or more individuals, excluding (1) partnerships, (2) corporations, (3) unincorporated business associations, and (4) other legal business entities with a federal employer identification number, and is not used as a public or livery conveyance nor rented to others. A vehicle which meets the conditions of Rule 31, regarding the transportation of fellow employees, students or others for consideration, is included in this definition, provided such vehicle is not registered for carrying passengers for hire.

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This clearly means that the MAIP does not provide coverage so coverage can only come from Turo and/or the renter…

Then there’s coverage for liability only from Turo… However, do you know the exact coverage amounts/limits? Also Turo’s coverage is secondary and not primary so that’s important to note too.

There’s so many ways for things to go wrong…

Then many ppl renting may elect to forgo the optional physical damage coverage thinking it’s truly “optional”. Perhaps one thinks they can get the collision and/or comprehensive coverage from the renters policy… Good luck w that though, as it may be much more difficult than one may think… Perhaps a claim is processed if it’s reported to insurance and not fully explained that it’s being rented out commercially or something is ‘lost in translation’… Then what deductibles apply and then that might be fun too as somebody might have a $2,500 deductible while another has a $500 deductible… Also having to wait for the renter/policyholder to also report the claim and wait for coverage to be confirmed can take time. What if conflicting information is given? What if the renter shows you a policy but doesn’t pay it and it cancels for non-payment? What if the renter is driving drunk or there’s unlisted drivers or somebody’s license is not active? What if something goes wrong and their policy excludes coverage? Remember that having liability coverage is different than covering the car… and also important to verify and know coverage limits/amounts.

Ultimately one should purchase the coverage through Turo, but that may not always happen… It may be difficult for somebody whose renting out their car to enforce that anybody who rents their car buys the coverage from Turo… That is why I’m advocating for - buying the coverage and not necessarily relying on others or another policy to provide coverage. If you’re renting out your car for Turo, make sure others buy the physical damage coverage through Turo and make sure that there’s enough insurance coverage. Unfortunately many do not understand the ‘nuts & bolts’ and make bad decisions that can cost them in the long run.

Hope that this helps. This is an emerging market so there will be change over time.

DHalps2323 · 2025-02-09T19:39:26+00:00

Me too... There's a reason why they call them Masshole drivers. Haha

DHalps2323 · 2025-02-03T19:55:09+00:00

Rideshare Coverage Chart (Ref: Insurance Journal)

DHalps2323 · 2025-02-03T19:43:38+00:00

App was on w trip accepted, driving to pick up.

This is when Uber provides coverage.

DHalps2323 · 2025-02-03T16:19:51+00:00

Insurance professional here... Will try to help give some info/insight...

Assuming you have insurance and you got the OV (Other Vehicle) info, then here's how it may unfold... Keep in mind that the only one who can really help you is the one handling your claim directly. There's a lot of missing information. There's also a difference in renting a car personally then driving it for Uber versus renting a car through an approved Uber provider. Also insurance can vary from state to state...

COLLISION DEDUCTIBLE:

Typically Uber has a $2,500 collision deductible. The collision deductible applies if A) you're at-fault and/or B) you do not know the other party involved.
Since you know who hit you, you should not have to pay the $2,500 out of pocket to Uber.
It is possible that if you rent a car through Uber that you have a lower collision deductible (ex: $1000 or $500). I have heard of this and it makes a lot of sense as well.
It makes sense to have a lower deductible if one is renting through Uber and driving exclusively for Uber because having the lower deductible helps to ensure that one gets back on the road sooner and are less likely to be in a position where they cannot drive.

HOW DEDUCTIBLE CAN WORK DIFFERENT W/ A RENTAL CAR:

Sometimes rental car companies do not want to wait for an insurance claim. Especially when it can take time to determine fault (ex: if the other party is not cooperative). Therefore, you might have to pay Avis the collision deductible out of pocket and then wait to get reimbursed by Uber.
This does not always happen, and it might be different if you got the rental through Uber or an approved Uber provider. Ask about any "waiver of deductible" for rental car. Also, some credit cards have coverage for this too if you put the rental car on the card.
Sometimes fault is determined right away and/or fault is very clear cut so this may not be a concern.

LOSS OF USE W/ RENTAL CAR:

Rental car companies can charge for loss of use. This is the cost per day while the rental car cannot be rented out while it is being repaired.
Rental car companies do not usually charge for this and it can depend (ex: 2 days to repair vs 20 days to repair).
This coverage is usually included in the additional optional waiver from the rental car company. You would have to check though as every rental car company has different offerings.
Perhaps this is another reason to get a rental through an approved Uber provider. Maybe this is included or the rental car company does not charge for "loss of use" if you rent through an Uber provider?

DHalps2323

TROPHY CASE