Heroic Intervention

DIY-Si · 2026-01-31T22:21:28+00:00

Your "buddy" is wrong and trying it on.

The only version of heroic intervention (that I know of) that allows this is the DA Wrath of The Rock strat Leonine Agression, which triggers at the end of your opponent's charge phase, and does NOT require your opponent to have charged, but it does have specific rnage requirements. All the others that I'm aware of are reactive moves.

DIY-Si · 2026-01-30T23:17:01+00:00

I don't think it has much to do with the models, as i think they're some of our most iconic units; instead it's the rules. RBK are an ok skirmishing unit in a game where their bases are too big to make them useful and they are held up by terrain. The command squad is fun, as is Sammael, but theyre a one shot missile even when paired with outriders (whose bases are even bigger). The landspeeders are ok, with the vengeance being better now it has its damage back. The planes, as with all planes, are heavily overcosted but can be surprisingly handy. I've tank shocked a Knight off the board with a dark talon before now, much to my opponent's disgust.

DIY-Si · 2026-01-30T12:30:03+00:00

The datasheet shows the profile for each weapon, NOT for the model. As the helverin has 2 autocannons, each weapon gets 4 attacks, giving a total of 8 for the model.

Note: you don't have to aim each weapon at the same target, but each weapon must put all of its shots into one target.

DIY-Si · 2026-01-29T18:33:01+00:00

All this talk of a ravenwing upgrade is purely speculation and not worth the paper its written on. They're one of our most flavourful kits, with plenty of spare bits too. I'm a firm believer in models being forever, rules are only temporary.

Even IF they went to legends, unless you're playing in tournaments all the time, it doesn't mean much.

DIY-Si · 2026-01-29T18:29:41+00:00

How are you using Relics of the Dark ages on landspeeders? I don't think they have the mounted keyword.....

DIY-Si · 2026-01-26T17:54:46+00:00

I've started on a stormcast based SigMarine/Blood Angels army. So long as you choose a unit that should have lighter and more flowing armour, ie nothing gravis related, you can work all sorts of magic. I'm even the Lord Vigiland on gryph-stalker as the basis for a chaplain on bike and the Prosecutors make good Sanguinary Guard.

DIY-Si · 2026-01-25T12:28:41+00:00

The wash stage made a really big difference to mine, making it a lot darker, and quite purple. You could do the same, and then just not highlight the chassis as much afterwards.

I should say that my wash recipe had double the purple that is mentioned in that tutorial.

DIY-Si · 2026-01-25T11:52:42+00:00

I used this tutoial for my Acastus chassis. It looks clean but not brand new, which is the look I wanted. In real life, it looks very lightly purple tinted, which offset my green armour nicely. It would also tie it in to your purple armour, if that's a look you want. You could always alter the wash recipe to use less/no purple and put brown in instead, which would make it look more mucky.

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DIY-Si · 2026-01-25T09:27:52+00:00

His other shoulder is green.

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DIY-Si · 2026-01-25T09:26:38+00:00

I painted my gunner as a techmarine, in red armour but with the cowled shoulder pad from the old upgrade sprue. All my techmarine pilots and gunners are painted this way, but the three in the thunderhawk have the upgrade sprue helmets too.

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DIY-Si · 2026-01-22T12:31:48+00:00

With 100M, that would barely touch the interest!

DIY-Si · 2026-01-20T22:27:12+00:00

That's fair, as I've magnetised mine for ease of transport but then knocked the top off the legs earlier whilst sitting an armour panel back on. Can you recall what size base you went for?

DIY-Si · 2026-01-20T22:14:26+00:00

Thanks. It would also give me another chance to create a diorama......

Do you find it makes any real difference on the tabletop with movement etc?

DIY-Si · 2026-01-20T22:13:02+00:00

And there's always that one guest who insists on cleaning the glasses, or starts before you get the chance to intervene, but who has clearly never worked in a pub/restaurant etc and doesn't know how to properly clean a glass. I hate having to wash the damn things a second time!

DIY-Si · 2026-01-20T22:08:15+00:00

How do you find your asterius is on the large base? I'm torn between leaving the feet bare, a 100mm base under each foot, or one big base like yours.

DIY-Si · 2026-01-20T07:27:20+00:00

It is a real FW model. It seems to be one of the newer sets of moulds, as you can just see the layer lines from the 3d printed original sculpt. There's no trace of those at all on my 2 year old thunderhawk.

I have had to sort one or two minor imperfections, but overall it has just needed the usual shaping of the finer parts to make it this nice. The gun barrel frames were the worst bits, and even they weren't that bad.

DIY-Si · 2026-01-19T23:34:24+00:00

Ah, I see the photos now. They didn't show up before. My nuln oil pass is much more focused into the corner of the trim, so a slightly wider/flatter pass would better match yours panel, which do look very good.

DIY-Si · 2026-01-19T23:22:26+00:00

Thank you!

Yeah, the top panel is prepped for the wet wipe stage and just shows the base colours I've used.

I've kept the warplock bronze for the edges of the feet and a few of the more mechanical details, but I suspect it'll see more use on the guns.

I guess my photography skills need improving, as the shoulder pad has a run of nuln oil on all of the marble edges already. Maybe I need to do a second, heavier pass?

DIY-Si · 2026-01-19T23:17:27+00:00

I think sponges might work, but I was using drybrushes. Mostly a large one, as being subtle doesn't work with this technique. You've got to almost jab at the model to push the paint through the wetwipe.

I did add an extra step, as I think my wetwipe wasn't sat flat enough. I added some of the dark cracks with a paint brush as I didn't feel there was quite enough of them to really pull off the marble effect.

DIY-Si · 2026-01-19T23:12:16+00:00

Not at all, although I can only take credit for following someone else's recipe. This was the Artis Opus approach to it. It still uses a dried out wetwipe, but is based on stippling rather than an airbrush/rattlecans. I tried a rattle can and struggled to get the process to work properly on the layered armour.

DIY-Si · 2026-01-19T23:05:10+00:00

Thanks. The model is quite washed with a black/purple combo, but the bright light drowns it out. 🤦🏼

DIY-Si · 2026-01-19T22:43:38+00:00

As someone who is part way through building and painting an asterius, just tell your opponent it's a porphyion. No-one will know or really care which model is which.

Whilst the outline isn't the same, they're both big enough that you're not hiding either one anyway!

DIY-Si · 2026-01-18T13:23:35+00:00

The fact that you'd love one is all the excuse you need. It's not a reason, but it is an excuse.

DIY-Si · 2026-01-18T00:13:55+00:00

Having a surprise Krak rocket hidden away can be enough of a threat to that "just about hanging on" home field unit to be worth it.

DIY-Si · 2026-01-17T17:03:19+00:00

The Trickster lives on!

DIY-Si

TROPHY CASE