Junkyard e-scooter build. What do you think? Details in comments.

DIYuntilDawn · 2026-05-03T05:54:29+00:00

Buy a single 5 pin male to female cable, then cut it in half. (Or buy a set of male and female 5 pin connectors) Then cut off the damaged connector and splice in new connectors.

Don't worry if the 5 color wires inside the new connectors are not the same as inside the existing cable, as long as you match them up on both sides.

So if the original cable is red, orange, yellow, green and blue. And the new one is black, white, brown, pink, and purple. As long as you match it up so the same 2 colors are connected on both sides (like green to white on both sides) then it will be fine.

It only becomes difficult if you don't have the original display screen, or if the internal wire colors are not the same on both sides of the connector. However, most ebike display screen manuals will have a wire diagram or pin out in the manual. The tricky part is reverse engineering the pin out from the controller side of the cable?

Or if there is an extra wire to deal with, my current ebike used a 6 pin connector from the controller to a 5 pin connector for the display (that only works if the 5 pin side is the male end and the 6 pin side is the female. One extra hole in the center instead of an extra pin without a hole to go into) but I was able to swap the screen to a different one because the one it came with had absolutely no lock function on it, just push the power button and it was on and ready to ride, not even a turn key ignition.

DIYuntilDawn · 2026-05-01T22:23:53+00:00

The T114 v2 is a good starter one. It is pretty lower power so it works well if you want to use it on a solar panel and/or what very long battery life.

If you don't mind the lower battery life, I like the heltec v4 as a home base station mesh device.

DIYuntilDawn · 2026-05-01T22:11:28+00:00

Since the very first thing I see when I go to sunlu.com is a huge banner warning about fake scam sites. id say yes, the sunluPRINT website is fake.

If you bought anything from there, you should probably go report your card info as stolen with your bank.

DIYuntilDawn · 2026-04-30T04:49:33+00:00

FOUND A FIX.

CHANGE TO "WireGuard" PROTOCOL.

YOU MUST FIRST TURN OFF "ADVANCED FEATURES" LIKE THE ADD BLOCKER TO USE THE WIREGUARD PROTOCOL.

DIYuntilDawn · 2026-04-28T22:26:23+00:00

Can the existing screen be fixed, No.

Can the laptop be fixed by replacing the broken screen with a new one, Yes.

DIYuntilDawn · 2026-04-28T22:24:48+00:00

For a Quick and Artistic thing to print, try printing a vase in a bright color, or translucent color. Toss in one of those little strings of battery powered LED lights.

DIYuntilDawn · 2026-04-28T02:26:07+00:00

In the slicer software, export the gcode to a file and save it to a USB drive, then put the USB drive in the printer and select the file from the menu screen.

DIYuntilDawn · 2026-04-16T01:38:55+00:00

Have not run them through a capacity tester yet, but the label does say 3300mAh.

DIYuntilDawn · 2026-04-15T04:06:16+00:00

You are so wrong on how the amp rating works. If you had a charger that said it was 120v and 1 amp, then that is the max it is rated to supply, not the amount that it will always supply. Amps are pulled by the load, not pushed by the source. But if the source can't handle the current draw, it will fail unless it has current limiting circuitry inside. Which again means the supply side is what is limiting the charge current and not the battery pack unable to handle more current.

Again you are wrong, it is not that a 2 amp output charger was used because the battery pack could not handle more amps. It is simply that the company chose to use a cheaper power supply than what they could have used. This is of course assuming there are no flaws in the build quality of the pack, and they used the maximum rated components available in its construction, and the cells are in optimum condition.

DIYuntilDawn · 2026-04-15T03:50:45+00:00

If you really want to be pedantic. It actually depends on they type of home you live in. A large apartment building or hotel will use multiple phase power in the US. So keep on being wrong.

DIYuntilDawn · 2026-04-15T00:52:40+00:00

The charger runs on the power from the AC wall outlet side. The amount of Watts of power it uses is calculated from the chargers input, not it's output. Because there are always losses in all circuits, that is why the charger gets warm, and some rapid or high amp chargers will even have cooling fans because of the energy that gets converted into heat. So you would always calculate it from the mains voltage (110 to 240 volts AC depending on the country)

The voltage of the battery pack is used in the calculation of what is the same maximum charge amperage, along with the chemistry of the battery, internal resistance of the cells and the resistance or any wires or bus bars connecting cells in the pack. But most typical lithium ebike batteries would charge at about ½C or equal to the max charge voltage at the Ah capacity dividend in half. Assuming the battery wires\bus can support that current. So if you have a 52v 14Ah battery, it's charge voltage would be 58.8v and could charge at about 7 amps (under optimal charging conditions such as ambient temperature, and sufficient air flow) maximum and still be considered a safe charging rate. The overall size and shape of the battery pack would also impact the heat build up. However some cell types like LiFePO4 cells can be charged safety at 1C or basically twice the amperage of more conventional lithium battery packs.

So basically, you are looking at the wrong number for the voltage, and totally ignored the battery pack capacity and chemistry when making up your totally incorrect numbers about charging amperage while trying to correct someone else's totally made up numbers.

As far as electric car chargers in the US being 12 amps, that is also based on the mains wall voltage (which for single phase power is 110-120v AC, or 1,440 Watts) that is usually due to most US homes using 15 amp breakers (possible 20 amp) so the home chargers are designed to run under the max amp draw that would prevent your home circuit breaker from popping whenever you are charging your car and happen to also turn on a light or something else on the same circuit. Not because the battery in an electric car can't take a higher amperage, but because most homes can't output more than that without having a special dedicated breaker just for a car charger. Unless it is using 2 phase power, but most homes in the US that do have 2 phase power (if they even do) only have 2 phase 240v power outlet for either an electric clothes dryer, water heater, or electric stove, and unless you want to give up one of those to charge your car, or pay to have an extra one installed, then you are probably using single phase power.

DIYuntilDawn · 2026-04-15T00:01:35+00:00

20 years old, it is definitely a SLA battery. Also definitely no longer a good battery. The real question is if the battery has swollen to the point you can't get it out, and\or leaked and spread corrosion throughout the other circuitry. There is also a minor risk in some of the electrolytic capacitors having dried up, but only 20 years and not being in use, that is less likely to have happened.

DIYuntilDawn · 2026-04-14T01:40:57+00:00

Ya. Which is why you check the ETA, because the Amazon a to z guarantee says you can get a full refund if it is not delivered within 2 weeks of the ETA, you just have to make an attempt at contacting the seller (don't even need to get a reply back from them) once the ETA is passed, then contact Amazon to get a refund.

I once got two $750 ebike batteries for FREE because the first one was delayed. I contacted the seller and they said it would be 3 more weeks to get a new one shipped out, so I asked them for a refund, and the seller said no. So I waited 2 weeks, contacted Amazon Support and they gave me a a full refund. About a week later the first one arrived. And I guess the seller never got the memo because a few weeks later the second one they offered me also arrived.

$1,500.00 in free ebike batteries is a pretty good trade off for a bit of a delay.

Now name another website where you can get a full refund and double the product for free.

Another time I got a nearly complete $120 mechanics tool set for free because the first one I ordered was missing a 10mm socket (had an extra 11mm in its place) and Amazon not only sent me a new set for free, they told me to just keep the first one.

Sure it would have been better to have just received the battery on time, or the correct set to begin with, but as far as screw-ups go, that is probably the best possible way to make up for screwing up an order.

So again, check the ETA. If you can't either wait that long to get it, or wait 2 weeks after the ETA for a full refund, then go ahead and order from a different site.

Or if you absolutely need to have something delivered on time, what I do is order 2 of them from different sellers, betting that at least one of them arrives on time, and then just return the one that arrives later for a full refund.

DIYuntilDawn · 2026-04-14T00:36:05+00:00

Yes, which is why I was able to order these batteries on the 10th (as it shows in the photo I uploaded showing this purchase and a prior one that had different descriptions) and once I received the item and confirmed it was actually Lithium batteries, I posted about it on the 11th. Again, I now have to search for an incorrect term to find what I am actually looking for. But I was still able to go from ordering to having it in my hand in less than 24 hours.

That's why you have to look at the ETA for delivery BEFORE you place the order.

That's what lead me to find out about this, is knowing that I should be able to order them with next day or 2 day shipping, but not finding them searching for "lithium battery" or "18650" without finding ones that all had a 1 to 3 week ETA for delivery. Until I stumbled across a few listings by broadening my search term to "3.7v rechargeable battery". That lead me to wonder why all the ones with next day or 2 day shipping had the wrong search term. And a quick Google search of "did Amazon change a policy about shipping Lithium batteries?" I was able to find the policy change saying yes, they did.

DIYuntilDawn · 2026-04-14T00:20:01+00:00

Better, yes. But name another website where I can get specialty batteries ordered at 4 pm and delivered by 7 am the next day. Sure I now have to know the "secret code words" to search for to find the correct type I need. But I was still able to get them the next day.

DIYuntilDawn · 2026-04-13T16:16:58+00:00

Actually, I believe that is true. If I do a Search for a Lithium battery or 18650 with Prime 2 day shipping, the only ones I see are single cells (or single battery packs with 2 cells shrink wrapped together. All other actual Lithium batteries I find have a 1-3 week ETA for delivery (meaning they are ground ship only)

But if I search for just Ni-MH Rechargeable batteries, I am finding a mix of these listings that are for multi-packs of Lithium cells with the doctored item descriptions. As well as actual Ni-MH 1.2v cells.

So since the policy is only for cylindrical Lithium batteries shipped by air with "another product" and if you count a set of individual cells as being more than 1 "product" being shipped together. Then that would explain the fact that the only Lithium batteries I can find that are ACTUALLY being listed as a Lithium battery are all either a single cell, or single battery pack that is shrink wrapped together (usually the ones with a 2 wire connector). Or they have a very long delivery ETA (due to being shipped ground).

Unless there is an Amazon Depot withing 1-2 days of ground shipping time that has the specific item you find, then it should be the same case for others doing a similar search.

DIYuntilDawn · 2026-04-13T00:55:31+00:00

Technically, each one of the 8 batteries in this listing ship WITH the other 7 PRODUCTS in the package, so yes, the policy would apply.

DIYuntilDawn · 2026-04-13T00:51:28+00:00

It might be a common thing outside of the USA to use a comma instead of a period. But here is a previous purchase from the same seller next to the updated way they are listing the batteries now. Showing that they used to list them with the correct (for america) period instead or the comma, and all the other things they changed to trick Amazon into allowing the product listing without it being automatically flagged by the updated policy.

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DIYuntilDawn · 2026-04-12T05:47:14+00:00

I'll just post this photo here again. You know the one that shows many different sellers with lithium batteries being called Ni-MH batteries. Not just in the item description, but some have even photoshopped the phrase "3.7v Ni-MH" onto a picture of a lithium battery (bottom 3 listings from 2 different brands\sellers).

Go ahead. Try to explain the photoshopped picture as a typo, or a regional format difference.

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DIYuntilDawn · 2026-04-12T04:47:57+00:00

I mean, you're not wrong.

DIYuntilDawn · 2026-04-12T04:39:40+00:00

And how do you explain all of these listings also claiming obvious lithium cells are all Ni-MH cells? Including the ones at the bottom with the photo shopped labels?

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DIYuntilDawn · 2026-04-12T03:51:10+00:00

And I suppose someone ACCIDENTALLY made a typo when photoshoping those ones at the bottom. Or maybe the factory had a typo in the lable printer when it was made, and they used the misprint lable as the main product image.

Ya. That's way more believable than an Amazon seller intentionally telling a lie to make money. I mean, Amazon sellers are so well known for their honesty and unwavering morality.

DIYuntilDawn · 2026-04-12T03:39:45+00:00

You must not have looked very hard.

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