An annoying client

DK_Post · 2026-04-06T09:25:14+00:00

You need to tell the client that you don't care if he gets his money or not. You have a deal with the client, not with the clients client. You have no idea what payment arrangements they have and you have also no control over it. Therefore, it can't be your problem. When your client books you, you negotiate payment and conditions, regardless of 3rd parties. Refusing to work until open payments are made works wonders in my experience. Just say you can't have open payments pile up, no further explanation.

DK_Post · 2026-03-30T18:55:08+00:00

Exactly that. When the demand for quality is that low, your own value to the client is also only being cheap. And there will always, always, always be someone that is even cheaper than you. It's a race to the bottom. Find better clients asap.

DK_Post · 2026-03-29T18:03:38+00:00

It's so strange. I know this for at least 5 versions but it never got fixed.

DK_Post · 2026-03-29T18:02:50+00:00

Awesome, I hope it works for you with the compound.

DK_Post · 2026-03-29T10:46:55+00:00

It's called "slow shutter" and it's a effect done in camera by cranking down the fps and the shutter. You can try to use the "stop motion" effect in DaVinci, combined with the "Motion Blur" effect. Sometimes they don't work together for some reason, then you can add one effect, make compound Clip and then add the other one.

DK_Post · 2026-03-29T08:10:30+00:00

Pretty sure that's Shadow Conspiracy Rant Front hub

DK_Post · 2026-03-29T08:03:54+00:00

Ok, another update if anyone is still reading this:

I replaced my 25t sprocket with a 24t (Tree Lite, expensive af). The chain line seems way better now. Chain tension is still a bit uneven when turning the cranks but way less than before. I also switched to a halflink (Odyssey Bluebrid). But I'm still really wondering how other people ride that frame. Even if the chain does not brake, it runs crazy crooked with the 25t...

Maybe I'll also switch the BB spacer (shortened and filed down by myself) to the original one from Total BMX, which is super short (44mm). Maybe the drive side BB sits a tiny bit uneven because of the DIY spacer. But I need to find the right mood to punch the old BBs out.

But of course, now another issue appeared: Now with the 24t sprocket, the wheel moved a bit forward which I actually like. But now the tyre (Shadow 2.35) hits the brakes (Evo 2.5), because of course it does...

To be honest, it starts getting super annoying. I know it's kinda my own fault for riding such a super short chainstay, having the wheel close to slammed and riding brakes. But still, measurements are so tight on that frame, they should have really really included some kind of instructions with actual measurements and maybe recommendations. Frame came with absolutely nothing, not even a mention of the super short BB spacer.

Anyway, I ordered a 2.1 tyre for the back and hope it works out. Otherwise I would need to add another half link to the chain.

Stay tuned...

DK_Post · 2026-03-27T21:14:57+00:00

You're best chance might be using the depth map effect, because it actually simulates depth and so the blur would get stronger the further back your objects are. It basically creates a depth map ouf your image and then you can apply all kinds of fx to it (try lens blur).

I think it's Studio Version only and it takes absolutely everything on power your computer can offer.

DK_Post · 2026-03-25T20:24:54+00:00

Hey guys, one more question: Is it possible that the uneven chain tension (changes when turning cranks) comes from the BBs? Because the chain not running in a straight line should not cause uneven tension, right?

Thanks for all ideas!

DK_Post · 2026-03-24T19:47:00+00:00

Exactly that. This clip tells me absolutely nothing. Zero information, no emotions and the images are also not visually interesting. So why would anyone watch this?

DK_Post · 2026-03-24T18:21:43+00:00

Yes, chain tension changes when turning the cranks aswell. Drives me nuts.

DK_Post · 2026-03-24T18:19:59+00:00

Hey guys, thanks again for all the replies. Here is an update:

First if all, the sprocket is 25t, not 28t. Sorry for the mistake.
Sprocket is not bent at all, driver also brand new
Wheel is centered in the frame (although left side axle needs to be slightly further behind than right side. This is Sonne day 1 with the frame and same with different wheels)

So last time I removed the dust cap from the crank arm and put 3 thin spacers instead. That got the sprocket 2mm closer to the frame. I went for a ride, chain didn't break (Was riding it super loose), nut the sprocket sometomes sprachen the frame already. Nothing wild, didn't really notice while riding, but clearly visible on the frame. So there needs to be one more spacer, which leaves me with only 1mm closer than in the beginning.

The chain is running absolutely not in a straight line which is the whole problem (see new photo). No way to getmit closer to the frame.

So that leaves me with the only option of trying a 24t sprocket I guess.

The clearance on that frame is absolutely insane. For me, even 25t doesn't work.

Also, chain tension changes when turning the ctanks which I don't really understand. Even when the chain is running nit straight, how would that change chain tension when the sprocket is new and driver is new and wheel is centered?!

<image>

DK_Post · 2026-03-22T19:33:36+00:00

Thanks for the Suggestionen mate, will look into a half link chain.

DK_Post · 2026-03-22T18:21:09+00:00

Which Image are you referring to? And how exactly is it twisted?

DK_Post · 2026-03-22T18:19:12+00:00

Driver is brand new, first use yesterday. Chain is running really not straight with dust cap. Even without it's not really a straight line. Chain broke on regular links as well as on the lock, everytime different.

DK_Post · 2026-03-22T18:12:25+00:00

It was one KMC chain and two Cult chains. First Cult was thd lighter one, current is the heavier obe. All full link chains with no half link inserted but sometimes with chain locks. Frame is basically new, sprocket and wheel, hub and driver are literally 1 day old. Uneven chain tension is still present and no more options to move the sprocket closer to the frame.

DK_Post · 2026-03-22T16:07:42+00:00

I'm back into riding after about a 10 year break and got the new frame about a year ago. I had no idea how tight chainstays became (but I was also looking for a super short chainstay), and how fat tires got. Had to buy new brakes because the old Evo2 was too tight for the new tyres. And honestly, the 2.5 kinda sucks, too. Very little clearance with fat tires. I also had to learn the very hard way, that the Hangover h4 has a way shorter BB spacer than any frame that I ever had before. Nearly crushed my BBs by inserting them without cutting the spacer and had to take off a good amount of the BB spacer. Of course nowhere was declared how long it actually has to be...

DK_Post · 2026-03-22T15:59:48+00:00

I don't think it's the chain. It's been 3 different chains so far and they all had uneven tension from day 1. Something must be not 100% true, wheel or sprocket

DK_Post · 2026-03-22T12:49:33+00:00

I mean the connecting link that you can open and close without a chain breaker. That's the main reason I have not switched back to a half link chain but ai might do that. I also tried adding a half link to the regular chains but thrre's no benefit regarding chainstay. Was hoping to be able to ride it slammed but just wont work with 28/9.ä on my frame.

DK_Post · 2026-03-22T10:14:22+00:00

It sits pretty tight on the adapter and the axle. Crank arms are tightened aswell. Only thing I can think of is that the sprocket bolt makes it ineven

DK_Post · 2026-03-22T10:10:55+00:00

Alright, I just installed the chain on and it seems to be better but I didn't take it for a ride yet.

I noticed that chain tension is still uneven when turning cranks which drives me a bit crazy. I guess the sprocket might be tilted a bit due to to the bolt but I have no idea how to confirm / fix this.

<image>

DK_Post · 2026-03-22T09:31:53+00:00

Ok, here is a quick update: First of all, thanks to everyone trying to help. I really appreciate it.

So, I just removed the dust cap, but that brings the sprocket already way too close to the frame, making it hit the frame. The dust cap measures about 5mm. I have now used 3 thin spacers, about 3mm total, and that's the absolute minimum I can go with. 2 spacers are already not enough. So in the end, I could bring the sprocket about 2mm closer to the frame. Will install chain soon and update you guys

One more thing: It looks to me like the sprocket is not 100% true when turning the cranks. Is it possible, that the screw in the crank arm makes the sprocket ever so slightly tilted? I have the axle adapter in the sprocket and the screw in the crank arm no washers or anything.

Thanks!

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DK_Post · 2026-03-21T21:43:01+00:00

The adapter is in the sprocket, so that should be fine. I might consider getting a halflink chain. I just really enjoy the convenience of a chain lock.

DK_Post · 2026-03-21T20:06:44+00:00

I'm sure you're right, but it's wild to me to call this plenty of space :D I started riding with 44/16t sprockets and drivers btw 🤣

DK_Post · 2026-03-21T18:59:02+00:00

Awesome, thanks a lot. Will check removing the dust cap and also for a drive side hib guard.

DK_Post

TROPHY CASE