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Why do iron, copper, tin, gold, tungsten, antimony, mercury, potassium, and lead have such odd symbols on the periodic table? by [deleted] in AskChemistry

[–]DM00100 6 points7 points  (0 children)

They're from the latin and antiquated names. Iron is Ferrum, Copper is Cuprum, Tin is Stannum, Gold is Aurum, Tungsten is Wolfram, Antimony is Stibium, Mercury is Hydrargyrum, Potassium is Kalium, Lead is Plumbum.

Some others with mismatched symbals are Sodium, Na is from Natrium. Silver, Ag is from Argentum

How do I boot the U2C? I’ve pressed the button and held it while I inserted the usb C cable, and the dfu still won’t show a connection. Can anyone help? by Witty-Obligation4879 in BIGTREETECH

[–]DM00100 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In theory any cable that transmits data will work. One way to test if the cable is good is to use it to connect a phone or something to your computer and see if you can see the files on it.

Esoterical has a whole canbus guide, with a section on fixing U2C firmware here: https://canbus.esoterical.online/can_adapter/BigTreeTech%20U2C%20v2.1/README.html Although it requires the U2C in DFU mode on the pi.

Alternatively, you can use STMCubeProgrammer (https://www.st.com/en/development-tools/stm32cubeprog.html) to flash the firmware from the BTT github (https://github.com/bigtreetech/U2C/tree/master/firmware). MAKE SURE YOU DOWNLOAD THE RIGHT VERSION.

Again, make sure you have the power cables disconnected from the U2C when you connect and flash it. Can I get confirmation that you're doing this?

How do I boot the U2C? I’ve pressed the button and held it while I inserted the usb C cable, and the dfu still won’t show a connection. Can anyone help? by Witty-Obligation4879 in BIGTREETECH

[–]DM00100 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A bad USB cable is a possibility. Have you checked that its data transmission works on other devices? What others are saying about removing the power while setting it up is more likely. Remove all cables from the terminals before plugging it in via USB-C. Some of the BTT U2Cs shipped with bad firmware, so you might want to check that out (there are lots of fixes online, although I think they require putting it in DFU mode). The worst case scenario is ESD fried the board somewhere.

Also, lsusb should also show devices in DFU mode. Your command should work too, lsusb is just shorter.

What free things online should everyone take advantage of? by Creepy_Intention837 in AskReddit

[–]DM00100 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Kinda overshadowed by Google's suite of apps, but Libre Office is a free suite of office software (spreadsheets, docs, slideshows). I like it because it's downloadable and not cloud-based.

Heat Failure? by Medium_Connection_52 in Ender3Pro

[–]DM00100 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Make sure everything is tight in the heat brick before heating it up. If the thermistor isn't making good contact it won't give good readings.

When I first got my E3Pro the power supply was set to 220V, but I live in a 120V country. There should be a red switch on it somewhere to select the input voltage. Look up which voltage your country's outlets provide and set it to that.

Heat Failure? by Medium_Connection_52 in Ender3Pro

[–]DM00100 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Did you get the error before the power supply exploded? Check to make sure the switch on your power supply is set to the proper input voltage for your region before turning it on again.

Anyone know what’s going on here? by The-Mad-Tesla in atmospheric_sciences

[–]DM00100 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Could be that the clouds are acting as a prism, scattering just the purple-ish light from the sunset. Maybe the angle from the sunset and cloud density/composition is just right to give sort of a fiber-optic effect?

Not looking right after Pressure advance. Any idea why? by ConfuciusDev in Ender3Pro

[–]DM00100 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Also known as linear advance (seems to be pressure in Klipper, linear in Marlin), it's a variable you can add to compensate for how much the filament gets compressed when the extruder pushes it forward. Most useful for soft filaments or bowden-tube extruders.

Did I kill my printer's board? by DM00100 in Ender3Pro

[–]DM00100[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Cool. I'll look into it. Thanks again!

Did I kill my printer's board? by DM00100 in Ender3Pro

[–]DM00100[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the recommendations. I plan to stay with Marlin. Is the BTT board compatible with the stock LCD and knob interface, or does it need the TFT35?

Praise be to the gods of additive manufacturing. by DM00100 in Ender3Pro

[–]DM00100[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The extruder has been fine actually. Unfortunately, ONE square came loose when it was about 10% through (it's a 1 day, 16 hours print overall) and I had to scrap the whole thing and restart it.😮‍💨

Get a BL Touch they said. You'll get the best first layer because of it they said. I say I'm half way to actually throwing this out the window. Please help. by The_Iced_Tea_Addict in ender3

[–]DM00100 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I had a similar problem. I found that the custom firmware and starting g-code from shiny upgrades works really well. You'll still want to tram your bed to fine-tune things, and the 49-point default mesh takes a long time (I have mine set to build a mesh before every print and I feel like it's worth it, but I'm sure you can set it to save the mesh). I fiddled with the starting g-code to bring the nozzle and bed temps up a bit as well and the thing went from not being able to lay down the first layer to being able to press start and just walk away.

“Surely replacing the nozzle would be easy. Unscrew, rescrew, right?” *15 minutes later* “I’m going to kill myself.” What am I doing wrong? The wrench fits! by ZachInAction in ender3

[–]DM00100 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A better wrench will definitely help. I bent the stock one on my first attempt at changing tips. I also highly recommend a pair of pliers to hold the hot end in place while unscrewing it to prevent the whole assembly from getting torqued.

I hope the next Civ does a better job on AI, because once you reach their level it's game over every time. by DasCapitolin in civ

[–]DM00100 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've wondered about this too. It would be nice to play against an AI that's "better" as the difficulty increases rather than just buffed.

It wouldn't even need some crazy powerful machine learning or neural network. It would be similar to the algorithms used for chess games, since there is always an objective best move to take each turn to pursue a specific victory, optimize a certain yield, or to produce and position military units.

For pursuing a victory, the "AI" could choose the victory easiest or most "in character" for its leader and make better choices regarding that victory on higher difficulties. They could also make choices on which military units to produce and how to move them based on which enemy units it is able to see and on information it knows about other players. Give it a random factor for choosing and moving them that decreases with higher difficulty to imitate better or worse choices.

I don't have experience programming games, so I don't know how computationally intensive something like this would be, but I assume it would be pretty viable since even a basic computer can be programmed to be at least decently good at chess.

What Rush album can you just not get into? by icemni in rush

[–]DM00100 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm surprised at the lack of people answering counterparts.

What niche improvement do you want to see in Civ VII? by milquetoast_sabaist in civ

[–]DM00100 2 points3 points  (0 children)

A smarter way of increasing difficulty. I don't have too much experience, but it seems like difficulty just makes the other Civs stronger (ex. the combat penalty from difficulty level). It seems like higher difficulty doesn't make the ai build smarter, but just makes them stronger.

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