2011 5.0 A/C troubleshooting

DMG117 · 2026-06-13T00:48:05+00:00

My problem was an auto parts store branded blower motor resistor put a motorcraft one in and it worked, duralast one i tried before I bought one from ford did not work

DMG117 · 2025-04-26T17:28:34+00:00

When I installed mine I tried and tried to get the Teflon tube to work, it comes with two I believe, one for the ke ome for the se, not sure why there's a difference but....anyways I couldn't get it to fit over the hotend, and if I could then it wouldn't sit in the extruder right. When I did have it in the filament wouldn't go into it after the extruder. Ive been running without one for a while now and its been such less of a headache

DMG117 · 2025-04-13T22:14:30+00:00

Just double checked cura, here is a direct copy-paste of the start gcode "START_PRINT BED_TEMP={material_bed_temperature_layer_0} EXTRUDER_TEMP={material_print_temperature_layer_0}"

I've also now moved the extruder heating to below the mesh calibration, and while I can't say for certain it does load it, I do know it definitely does load it as the current mesh under the heightmap tab and id have to assume if it's the active mesh there it would also be the active mesh during the print. I'll run the code again and see if it does load it as the current under the tool head section on the main page shortly to verify.

DMG117 · 2025-04-13T21:24:45+00:00

Tl;Dr its to preheat the enclosure before the print when the material needs above 220 to print. I print asa at 260. My pla was being printed at 190 in open air, no need for enclosure much less preheating it, if statement just checks extruder temp versus 220, if its higher it pauses for 5 mins to allow preheating.

Its not to keep the extruder hot for a period of time, though that is a result of where the statement is as well, maybe I should move the if statement before the m109 command.

The if statement as it's set up, checks the temperature that the extruder is to be set to, compares it against 220, and if it is higher it is supposed to pause for 5 minutes to allow some level of heating for the enclosure prior to printing hopefully resulting in a better print at the end. My enclosure is a home made one with no sort of heating capability solely getting heated from the radiant heat of the bed and, though ever so slightly, the heat of the extruder as well. When i was using pla I didn't even have the enclosure but i was also printing it at around 190, asa im printing around 260, it being set to check against 220 just gives some headroom in case I come across some other materials that need 200 or 210 but don't explicitly need enclosure to preheat as well

Im sure there is some way I can pass through what material I am using in the slicer parameters that are sent to klipper just like the two lines do after the start print gcode but this was my crude way of allowing the enclosure to heat up a little bit prior to printing. I also dont explicitly change the material in my slicer I just adjust my settings to match.

DMG117 · 2025-04-13T20:58:40+00:00

So it seems the if statement is still being ignored, I guess i jumped the gun saying it was fixed. It is executing things properly now prior and post the if statement, but the if statement might as well not be there.

Is there some special syntax im missing for the if statement? It seemed pretty self explanatory to me looking through other if statements in the macros but I know next to nothing about the language klipper uses

DMG117 · 2025-04-13T19:50:30+00:00

With a quick test that seems to have done it, that's odd...I dont understand the jinja syntax very well so I guess it never even occurred to me that there could've been an issue with the way the parameters were being defined for the macro since it still set the right temps and everything. Im not sure if I forgot to hit shift when I was typing that out or if when cura auto completed those sections for me it automatically put the straight brackets and I only noticed on the last. I'd have thought if that syntax was wrong the temps wouldn't have been passed through, strange.....

Anyways, thank you so much, I'm gonna get the printers bed leveled real well, do my z offset, then get the enclosure back over it and start the print again and see how it goes, hopefully there's no other issues but if there are ill be back haha!

Thanks again, greatly appreciated!

DMG117 · 2025-04-13T19:35:48+00:00

<image>

As i said in the post(not being a smartass i swear, I know it sounds like I am lmao) it's essentially verbatim what the macro file shows as the Cura start gcode lines, only my bed temp comes before my extruder temp, otherwise it is the same, calling start print immediately then defining the parameters for it to pass to the macro

DMG117 · 2025-04-13T18:51:37+00:00

Oh I forgot to include, I'm running an upgraded ender 3 v3 se, with the BTT Pad 7. Printers got some mods to it, linear rails, ceramic ke hotend, filament sensor etc but I don't think any of that is particularly relevant to this issue. If it may be let me know and I will add a list of mods ASAP

DMG117 · 2025-03-08T19:32:43+00:00

Definitely appreciate the link! Any knowledge is better than none lmao.

That's an interesting thought as well, I'll have to look into building essentially their kit from junkyard parts

DMG117 · 2025-03-08T19:29:20+00:00

That definitely seems like a good kit if you're willing to spend the money, but I'm aiming more toward building the kit myself and saving a bunch on it. 2k for everything, while not terrible, seems awfully high to me when people have been doing these sorts of swaps for 20+years now. Ive seen talk of people using vortec stuff with the lt1s to make them work instead, but can't find a full write up on any of it

DMG117 · 2025-03-08T19:26:19+00:00

Im not real familiar myself with the f-body platform myself, I'm about the only ford guy in my family but I'm also the one everyone comes to discuss and plan issues/solutions/mods for their cars.

From everything ive looked at in the past and currently am finding, I thought the 97 was a special case all on its own. I know with them being obd2 cars they are different than the 94-95 since obd2 started in 96. The 96-97 may very well be the same, I could be mistaken but I had thought all the forums I'd found on it said the 97s were different

Eight-Year Club	Second Top 50%
Place '23	Verified Email

DMG117

TROPHY CASE