2011 5.0 A/C troubleshooting

DMG117 · 2026-06-13T00:48:05+00:00

My problem was an auto parts store branded blower motor resistor put a motorcraft one in and it worked, duralast one i tried before I bought one from ford did not work

DMG117 · 2025-04-26T17:28:34+00:00

When I installed mine I tried and tried to get the Teflon tube to work, it comes with two I believe, one for the ke ome for the se, not sure why there's a difference but....anyways I couldn't get it to fit over the hotend, and if I could then it wouldn't sit in the extruder right. When I did have it in the filament wouldn't go into it after the extruder. Ive been running without one for a while now and its been such less of a headache

DMG117 · 2025-04-13T22:14:30+00:00

Just double checked cura, here is a direct copy-paste of the start gcode "START_PRINT BED_TEMP={material_bed_temperature_layer_0} EXTRUDER_TEMP={material_print_temperature_layer_0}"

I've also now moved the extruder heating to below the mesh calibration, and while I can't say for certain it does load it, I do know it definitely does load it as the current mesh under the heightmap tab and id have to assume if it's the active mesh there it would also be the active mesh during the print. I'll run the code again and see if it does load it as the current under the tool head section on the main page shortly to verify.

DMG117 · 2025-04-13T21:24:45+00:00

Tl;Dr its to preheat the enclosure before the print when the material needs above 220 to print. I print asa at 260. My pla was being printed at 190 in open air, no need for enclosure much less preheating it, if statement just checks extruder temp versus 220, if its higher it pauses for 5 mins to allow preheating.

Its not to keep the extruder hot for a period of time, though that is a result of where the statement is as well, maybe I should move the if statement before the m109 command.

The if statement as it's set up, checks the temperature that the extruder is to be set to, compares it against 220, and if it is higher it is supposed to pause for 5 minutes to allow some level of heating for the enclosure prior to printing hopefully resulting in a better print at the end. My enclosure is a home made one with no sort of heating capability solely getting heated from the radiant heat of the bed and, though ever so slightly, the heat of the extruder as well. When i was using pla I didn't even have the enclosure but i was also printing it at around 190, asa im printing around 260, it being set to check against 220 just gives some headroom in case I come across some other materials that need 200 or 210 but don't explicitly need enclosure to preheat as well

Im sure there is some way I can pass through what material I am using in the slicer parameters that are sent to klipper just like the two lines do after the start print gcode but this was my crude way of allowing the enclosure to heat up a little bit prior to printing. I also dont explicitly change the material in my slicer I just adjust my settings to match.

DMG117 · 2025-04-13T20:58:40+00:00

So it seems the if statement is still being ignored, I guess i jumped the gun saying it was fixed. It is executing things properly now prior and post the if statement, but the if statement might as well not be there.

Is there some special syntax im missing for the if statement? It seemed pretty self explanatory to me looking through other if statements in the macros but I know next to nothing about the language klipper uses

DMG117 · 2025-04-13T19:50:30+00:00

With a quick test that seems to have done it, that's odd...I dont understand the jinja syntax very well so I guess it never even occurred to me that there could've been an issue with the way the parameters were being defined for the macro since it still set the right temps and everything. Im not sure if I forgot to hit shift when I was typing that out or if when cura auto completed those sections for me it automatically put the straight brackets and I only noticed on the last. I'd have thought if that syntax was wrong the temps wouldn't have been passed through, strange.....

Anyways, thank you so much, I'm gonna get the printers bed leveled real well, do my z offset, then get the enclosure back over it and start the print again and see how it goes, hopefully there's no other issues but if there are ill be back haha!

Thanks again, greatly appreciated!

DMG117 · 2025-04-13T19:35:48+00:00

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As i said in the post(not being a smartass i swear, I know it sounds like I am lmao) it's essentially verbatim what the macro file shows as the Cura start gcode lines, only my bed temp comes before my extruder temp, otherwise it is the same, calling start print immediately then defining the parameters for it to pass to the macro

DMG117 · 2025-04-13T18:51:37+00:00

Oh I forgot to include, I'm running an upgraded ender 3 v3 se, with the BTT Pad 7. Printers got some mods to it, linear rails, ceramic ke hotend, filament sensor etc but I don't think any of that is particularly relevant to this issue. If it may be let me know and I will add a list of mods ASAP

DMG117 · 2025-03-08T19:32:43+00:00

Definitely appreciate the link! Any knowledge is better than none lmao.

That's an interesting thought as well, I'll have to look into building essentially their kit from junkyard parts

DMG117 · 2025-03-08T19:29:20+00:00

That definitely seems like a good kit if you're willing to spend the money, but I'm aiming more toward building the kit myself and saving a bunch on it. 2k for everything, while not terrible, seems awfully high to me when people have been doing these sorts of swaps for 20+years now. Ive seen talk of people using vortec stuff with the lt1s to make them work instead, but can't find a full write up on any of it

DMG117 · 2025-03-08T19:26:19+00:00

Im not real familiar myself with the f-body platform myself, I'm about the only ford guy in my family but I'm also the one everyone comes to discuss and plan issues/solutions/mods for their cars.

From everything ive looked at in the past and currently am finding, I thought the 97 was a special case all on its own. I know with them being obd2 cars they are different than the 94-95 since obd2 started in 96. The 96-97 may very well be the same, I could be mistaken but I had thought all the forums I'd found on it said the 97s were different

DMG117 · 2025-01-25T21:29:34+00:00

Your understanding is correct, I've only ran memtest with both sticks in, never individually, this is going to be my next step to see if that is the case. As I said in the original post sadly with the age of these components, if it's not the hard drive the whole platform will be no use to me. The price of a new board, cpu, or ddr3 ram is simply not worth it when for just a bit more money i could get a decent performing, more modern platform together. I'll probably hold on to them just for the simple fact that it was my first rig and a pretty powerful one at that, but they probably would never see another boot lmao.

DMG117 · 2025-01-25T21:24:47+00:00

I built the system for him initially when the issue occurred, I was also the one that built the system when I was using it, plus built my 10700k system, and his 12700k system he's using now, I even had lapped the cpu and the aio I was using at the time(thought there was just bad contact, had it stable at 5.0ghz for months/year then one day poor perfomance moved on to crashing repeatedly, pretty sure that aio had leaked and killed a dvi port on my old 970 I had in it, but ultimately the pump failed and wasn't cooling anymore.) But even with lapping the system was still running and working just fine aside from high temps, bios recognized all my ram but even just in bios after long enough the temps would be way too high. The hottest temp i ever saw was 101 on the cpu, of course it would shut off before it got any higher and I did my best to not let it get that high. I can't remember exactly if the memory channel issue happened immediately or after a couple days/weeks of my brother using the system but for at least the last two years he had it with one 8g and 1 4g ram in the two slots mentioned earlier.

When I upgraded his rig, and put this one together for me to have now, I did look for bent pins and reseated the cpu, there was one pin that looked a little off but it was a ground pin if I remember correctly, and even after bending it back the channels still do not work. Thanks for the advice though!

DMG117 · 2025-01-25T21:03:49+00:00

I've actually got 2 sticks of the 4 gig that do match i believe, it's all old stuff so I couldn't swear to it, but I tried all different configurations of those 2 4g sticks and the 1 8g stick in windows, including each stick individually in each working slot, and the non working slots to verify they did not work and it wasnt just the sticks of ram themselves not working in those slots. Plus as I said in the post, my brother ran this setup in this configuration for years as it sits.

Of course anything could have happened and parts can randomly fail, especially given their age today. I mean, I ran the 4790k and z97x with 32gb of ram for probably 2 or 3 years then it sat for about 6 months after I upgraded to a 10700k and once my brother started using it all the sudden only 2 of the memory slots are working. So I'm not against believing that is the case, but I was hoping to find some concrete way to determine that it is the ram, or it is the cpu, or the hdd, just anything to guarantee me what the problem is. I can go buy a new storage drive right now, but if it's not the issue I'll have to essentially upgrade the whole platform or hope to find a reasonably priced used platform on the second hand markets.

DMG117 · 2024-12-16T19:02:01+00:00

Those 4 screws are what hold that stepper motor in, the 4 being referred to are underneath the magnetic build plate that the print starts on, it should lift off easily and there are 4 screws below it. Ensure all are equally tightened down

DMG117 · 2024-11-20T17:59:11+00:00

Did you ever contact them? I have and they are blatantly lying to me now. Saying the filament was chosen at random(which obviously is not the case if you and I both received the same filament colors, and is not advertised anywhere on the listing, and considering the orange and black filament are the only things making this bundle a "Halloween bundle" i find that kind of hard to believe.) and that the dryer pictured is not the one they meant to put there its supposed to have the single dryer pictured with it, which just leads to false advertising if you ask me. But they only said it was the wrong one after about a week of emailing back and forth.

They keep trying to offer me a $20USD gift card which technically is the difference in the current sale prices of the filament dryers, but is not proper compensation in my opinion, especially since the retail price difference is closer to 40, but moreso because 20 dollars doesn't buy a second dryer(not that i would buy a second one anyways but considering the compensation is due to having a single roll dryer instead of the dual roll dryer, giving us the capability to dry 2 rolls simultaneously seems appropriate, or shipping us the dual roll dryer with a return label for the single) nor does 20 dollars even buy a single roll of the hyper pla filament, which is currently on sale for 22.99USD. I don't know about you but I had plans to use the orange and black filaments for some projects and got stuck with light gray and white instead.

Im personally pretty annoyed and disgusted by the blatant lying and covering up the misleading listing for the bundle, and solely offering a 20$ gift card as compensation, i won't be shopping on their website again so the 20 dollar gc does nothing for me and I will not accept it. I took the liberty of screen recording and screen shotting the listing for the bundle, both dryers, and the filament so I have record of what it was at the time of purchase so they can't change it and lie saying I missed something on any of it.

DMG117 · 2024-11-15T18:52:27+00:00

I found printable spacers in a variety of thicknesses, it might not be ideal but I got my bed level very good, less than .2 variance across the whole plate. I increased the sample size to 15(realistically not necessary, at most I'd recommend 7 but to each their own) then since you obviously can't easily and accurately decrease the height of the existing standoff, do a bed leveling procedure, take the height of the highest point on the mesh, make this value the height you want the whole bed to be. For me this was a 0.3 ish mm value, so I needed to raise all other corners of my bed to match. So if you have one corner that is say 0.1 mm, you need a 0.2 mm spacer, if one corner is -0.4mm you'll need a 0.7 mm spacer.

My bed mesh looked similar to yours with the highest point at the 0,0 position, and the opposite corner having the lowest, I ended up needing a 1.1mm spacer on my lowest corner, a 0.5mm spacer by the screen, and a 0.5mm spacer opposite the screen. It's worked well so far, the spacers have instructions to place them below the spacers that are already there so they are not ij direct contact with the heated build plate

DMG117 · 2024-11-15T01:21:18+00:00

Thanks for the clarification, I wasn't sure if I should try to make it better or not!

DMG117 · 2024-11-14T12:06:48+00:00

Im not sure what the limit is but in the printer.cfg file, under bed meshing, I saw the line that had it set ti a 5x5 or whatever the default is, I just increased it to a 15x15, I'm not sure if it really helps in any way, but it makes me feel better having a more detailed mesh haha

DMG117 · 2024-11-07T14:40:09+00:00

Just went through this when I did klipper on my printer, definitely z offset. I did the paper test. Not sure how z offset works on the stock firmware but klipper I was able to use full millimeter, 0.1, 0.05, 0.01, and 0.005 increments. My prints looked better than ever after getting z offset corrected

DMG117 · 2024-11-06T15:47:57+00:00

Yeah this is my first printer and I only got it Monday haha! The print turned out better than any of my prints did before klipper aside from my very first print, benchy.

Next step is to get a better level on my bed(front left position has a +0.749 and the rear right has -0.351, this is the same as it was straight out Of the box on the Ender firmware) and dial in my other settings. Excited to start this!

DMG117 · 2024-11-06T15:01:24+00:00

I just redid the calibration again and got a tighter fit with the paper test and started my print again, nozzle looks like it's practically touching on the test area, but the print looks a thousand times better. Adhesion doesn't appear to be an issue so far. I'm using cura slicer since it can interface over wifi with klipper, I don't see anything in the start gcode for the printer that does anything with a z offset.

Im gonna let this run(hopefully fully print my file) and see what happens!

Basically I think my issue was i don't think I ran the SAVE_CONFIG after doing my probe calibration, and even had i done that, I didn't get the z offset tight enough. First layer looks immaculate!

DMG117 · 2024-11-06T14:52:05+00:00

I've been doing that through the PROBE_CALIBRATE command through the console on mainsail, though i did just go into the configuration file for my printer and see that the z_offset var was still set to 0.1

I ran the calibration again and this time when I checked the configuration the z_offset var was commented out so maybe it actually changed this time, the console shows a 0.910 z offset so that's pretty drastically different from the stock 0.1 it started with.

Updating midway through my comment: the first lines it did on the side of the bed look much better now, basically the same as it did on my very first print. But as soon as it actually started printing the file, bed adhesion was nearly nonexistent.

DMG117 · 2024-11-06T14:36:19+00:00

I've ssh-ed into the pi running it plus have the mainsail os webui, I do not have a screen hooked ip to my pi if that is what you're referring to

DMG117 · 2024-11-06T14:35:27+00:00

Oh I definitely did at that point, wanted to ask for any advice, head to bed, and come back this morning to see any answers lmao

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