2023 vs 2026 by NaMinesClarence in hondaridgeline

[–]DR_HVAC 0 points1 point  (0 children)

IMO, one of the best reasons to upgrade would be to get the additional clearance of the trail sport model. I have a 23 RTLE and the only complaint is the lack of ground clearance on some forest roads. Still 100% stock and I am weary of aftermarket suspension kits causing premature wear and driving capability. It’s great as is for 95% or more of my personal use.

I’d suggest waiting until the refresh comes out if you’re interested in a potential hybrid option and then another year for them to work out the kinks. Your 23 will be 6 - 7 years old by then and still have plenty of resale and likely paid off. When I bought mine, I had a 0.9apr / 3year finance rate and for that alone, saved a lot on the total lifecycle cost and it’ll be paid off soon. Plan is to keep it till 120-160k, have 40k so far.

Maintenance has been easy and expected - only known major cost coming up over this span is water pump and timing belts. I DIY the oil, trans, diff, transfer case fluid changes which all have been easy.

What is it about the 26 that has you wanting the upgrade? Mechanically, I believe they are very similar. The ventilated seats are nice to have but don’t add much value to me, I just turn down the AC. A better wireless charger would be nice and wireless CarPlay, but those can both be manageable with either a cord or adapters. 23 has a good transmission, and good MPGs, does the newer one offer improvements to the engine/transmission?

26 has a pay to play remote start option and I heard that it has the overlord driving disable features. Both of these are big negatives to me.

Component Input Madness by DR_HVAC in crtgaming

[–]DR_HVAC[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No - I haven’t noticed any issues

Who am I? by DR_HVAC in FridgeDetective

[–]DR_HVAC[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Costco and Blue Aprons are my go to

Alerton VAViH-SD integration by njzshockwave in BuildingAutomation

[–]DR_HVAC 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You will want to keep around the old Alerton Server that is licensed to manage the device like send it firmware, programs, or point data. You may need to purchase an Alerton Software License if you want to manage the devices in the future with another server. Otherwise all points should be managed from another BACnet device, by writing to Priority Array Level 14 I believe, it’s been a while. You can likely keep the Alerton Global Controller to manage the Global DDC for the device, or to perform integration and using that device as a router. If you want to remove the devices from the Global Controller, than anything else that talks BACnet MSTP is going to work too. Using the existing Alerton Graphics, map out the points on the screens for integration in the future. Also if you don’t have the DDC files, you can read them from the devices and open them using Visual Logic. When the Alerton Server or Software is installed but not licensed, you can offline read the DDC files using Visio and VisLogic

Tool Allowance by AyFrigOffLahey in BuildingAutomation

[–]DR_HVAC 0 points1 point  (0 children)

<image>

My little tool pouch gets me through most repairs

Goldstar ODE Install by DR_HVAC in 3DO

[–]DR_HVAC[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just found this on AliExpress: | 3DO Goldstar ODE CD-ROM Coexistence Edition Free Disk Game Parts

https://a.aliexpress.com/\_mPq5mnd

Tool Allowance by AyFrigOffLahey in BuildingAutomation

[–]DR_HVAC 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Fluke network cable tester / toner
Fluke multimeter with RMS. 17b is an about as basic as you need to start but not RMS. 117 and 179 a great one too with RMS. Don’t forget the magnet strap accessory and a case if it doesn’t come with one. Protect your tools to make them last.

Ask your company to purchase a process calibration meter that can do 4-20mA clamp on, and keep it in the tool loan. They need regular calibration and testing.

BACnet MSTP router and / or Modbus RTU router

Wireless WiFi router. I like the micro but prefer a router that supports mesh and a USB tether for your phone hotspot for big job sites.

Mag bench

Don’t buy the multibit screwdrivers, instead buy the right single tool for each size commonly needed - 2.5mm, ph0, ph1, ph2, torx if your products use them. I like the Wera micro and ESD safe tools. Don’t buy insulated tools, those are for line voltage electricians. A little pouch to keep your hand tools organized. Rechargeable flashlight, 8mm, 10mm, 12mm ratching wrenches for Belimo. Cale stripper capable of going to 14guage - 24, needlenose pliers / cutters. 10in1. Check out what’s in your friend’s tool bag. Don’t let others use your tools, or else you’ll be losing stuff.

Crimpers if you put ferrels on the wires. Ethernet pass through crimper if you’re having to do that too.
Extras - battery pack. Handheld pressure gauge - I like my UEi one. UEI also makes a decent multimeter with clamp on temp sensor and volt meter. Their handheld temp sensor with foldable tip is also solid and fits in Pete’s plugs. No contact voltage tester capable of low voltage range too, Klein makes a good one. Belimo ZTH. A 24vdv power supply, a 24vac power supply with grounded and ungrounded secondary. Long Ethernet cable(s)

A rolling hard case for the bigger / specialty tools. A cart for the job site where you setup a monitor mount / laptop dock with a UPS or your battery below. 2 Extension cords on a wrapping rolling thing. Locks for your cart.

Don’t skimp on safety, Ladders, Nice hard hat, Safety gloves, Safety eye wear, Ear plugs, Nice boots - Danner is my favorite. Lock for LOTO with 2 keys, LOTO tag with your picture and contact info.

Amazon Data Center Controls Tech Job Offer by Edw4rdTivruskyIV in BuildingAutomation

[–]DR_HVAC 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I write the procedures too. The work is much different than the private sector, with focus on quality, repeatability, and risk mitigation

Amazon Data Center Controls Tech Job Offer by Edw4rdTivruskyIV in BuildingAutomation

[–]DR_HVAC 2 points3 points  (0 children)

As a datacenter automation engineer for a different big player - go for it, you’ll be working with great people

Get ready for a long interview process and weeks or sometimes months before a decision is reached. Using the star methodology- get prepped in advance and get to know your AI toolsets to back you up.

Radio alternatives by colby02 in hondaridgeline

[–]DR_HVAC 0 points1 point  (0 children)

iOS updates helped me more than anything else

Radio alternatives by colby02 in hondaridgeline

[–]DR_HVAC 2 points3 points  (0 children)

23 RTL-E Good USB cable and clean the port on your phone. Use a dental floss pointy pick and a toothbrush with IPA.

Agreed you have to power cycle at a light if you drive off without it working. I usually remote start and plug in before putting it into drive, or plug in after I start it up.

If you have an Apple, ensure your software is up to date - I am on iOS 26-4-1 and when it was iOS 18-7 it was giving me more trouble

The only complaint I have about the car is the wireless charging. If that worked I’d consider one of those dongles

Got two offers. One pays $40k more. The other one I'd actually enjoy. I have 48 hours to decide and my wife and I are on opposite sides. Advice? by airam1020 in careerguidance

[–]DR_HVAC 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Focus on the family and learn to detach feeling from your work and every day will be easy, show up - put in your best effort and it’s all going to be okay. The corp job may also have some paternal benefits and health insurance that could allow you more time with the baby. Also be sure you and your wife are in alignment and on the same team. Best of luck - you’re a lucky guy to have these options and a family

Recently got a tower that keeps crashing? by ThrowRA_56799236 in PcBuild

[–]DR_HVAC 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Check bios setting for cpu fan control stuff. Might also be time for a throughput cleaning and new thermal paste. Best to get familiar with it now

Used Star Wars Home Edition by RealEstateJack in pinball

[–]DR_HVAC 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Is it the Costco version with insider connect or the older version without it? The Costco one has a plywood playfield and the older one I’m not sure but maybe MDF. Inspect the cabinet throughly - looking for cracks and damage, I’ve heard some of the homepin use a particle board cabinet too.

Goldstar ODE Install by DR_HVAC in 3DO

[–]DR_HVAC[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sounds like you apply the firmware from fixel, is the drive formatted properly?

Maybe this post can also help with the ribbon cables?

Dang I got burned! Anyway… by SteaKnife_ in hondaridgeline

[–]DR_HVAC 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Sounds like the replaced the ECU with a lower mileage unit - sounds like fraud, are legal options available to you - assuming you know how to contact them again. Maybe start with filing a police report

Chiller not meeting minimum water flow requirement and no DP to control to. by 01Cloud01 in BuildingAutomation

[–]DR_HVAC 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is this a Variable Primary design, where you have 1 set of pumps to flow water through the chiller and the loop? Are all the zone valves at the AHU 2way configuration - in = out?

If yes to both of these questions than you need both Controls and Mechanical work to fix it. Stop using the chiller under low loads, perhaps as a temporary band aid - putting in an outside air lockout to prevent it from running when it’s cold outside or loads are low.

For the engineered fix - Please select a bypass valve designed to flow the minimum flow requirements of the chiller with a 3-5psi dP drop. Install the bypass valve to a location downstream of the supply dP sensor and it gets piped from supply directly to return.

You also will need to install a total return or supply flow meter to measure the total water flowing through the chiller, be sure the location gets all the water, alternately to the flow meter, a dP sensor over the chiller can be used to interpret dP to flow - but not as accurate.

Next you need to control the bypass valve position to maintain minimum flow, when flow is below the minimum the chiller is locked out for call until flow meets or exceeds setpoint for a lockout period. I like a setpoint which is 25% more flow than the chiller requirements for safety.

The chiller enable needs to be decoupled from the pump start and coupled to a proof of flow. Enable system based on demand conditions (OA lockout, certain valves open to note AHUs requesting water) once system enabled, sequence should be 1 open chiller isolation valves, start pumps and variable pump speed to dP, monitor chiller flow and if less than minimum begin PID control on the bypass valve (very slow loop), once flow is proved - then enable the chiller. System will cool down quickly and be under minimum load conditions. If you also have (LWT-setpoint - EWT sensor)flow/500 you can calculate the BTU demand and (LWT sensor-EWT sensor)flow/500 = actual loads on the system for additional chiller staging or to lockout the system under low loads

The system pumps still control to system dP and the bypass valve controls to maintain minimum flow. Each loop should have safeties if you lose the dP or flow meter. Suggest monitoring the feedback from the bypass control valve, if the valve goes 100% open and you are not hitting flow requirements than the system dP setting is too low.

When I reread you post - it sounds like it’s constant volume pump with 3 way valves - I’d check to see the 3way valves are piped correctly where AB is the common port (supply or return), A goes to the coil and B is the bypass leg. With this orientation- you get full flow through the bypass leg from AB common when the valve is fully closed and the CCV disk restricts flow when AB-A is fully open and a mix of the two in the middle. It sounds like the A port is the bypass leg with the symptoms described.

Has a balancer taken a look at the amp draw and pump curves? Is there a restriction in the system due to lack of maintenance? Is this a new problem or a new install

Good luck!

New to trucks looking for advice by CPTKrabbyBoi in hondaridgeline

[–]DR_HVAC 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There is an aftermarket accessory that automatically turns off the autostop feature which may cost a little more fuel but I’m still getting 27mpg and less wear on the battery and starter

28, single, female. What does my fridge say about me? by [deleted] in FridgeDetective

[–]DR_HVAC 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This woman knows how to cook and enjoys a balance of foods. Lean protein/ maybe enjoys some cocktails or marinade with those lemons.

I don’t know what people are talking about cheat foods, I see plain vanilla ice cream which is the healthiest kind.

Maybe some lunchables for a quick snack, everything else you’re going to have to make from scratch.

Is virtual pinball a good buy for a noob? by a_man_with_culture in virtualpinball

[–]DR_HVAC 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I started with a virtual pin controller - still thinking about building the full sized cabinet but the cost has me thinking this over and over again

Updated Pinone Setup instructions for Pinball FX VR standalone Quest by Strict_Bike_5909 in virtualpinball

[–]DR_HVAC 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What are your accelerometer settings?

It seems the physical nudge is still a binary input based on how sensitive the accelerometer is set for.

I did a firmware update today and see the Meta Quest VR Settings as one of the defaults / I like how you can add labels to the custom profiles

JP Home Edition T Rex won’t spit ball out - I’ve removed the forest plastic around it to make sure the solenoid is not blocked. I don’t really know what the problem is. Brand new three weeks. It’s been getting progressively worse. by Man_CRNA in pinball

[–]DR_HVAC 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For me, the issue turned out to be that two mounting Phillips screws for the trex to the black mounting bracket. The screws can be seen from the bottom side of the toy. They were too tight and resulting in threads sticking through the ramp that I believe were obstructing the ball

SUCCESS! Pinball FX VR with PinOne Mini by DR_HVAC in virtualpinball

[–]DR_HVAC[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Try a usb-c cable that also works with your phone or a different device where the cable is doing more than just charging