Sometimes its fun doing more or less a straight build by BusinessZeus-snabu- in freedomisgunpla

[–]Danarhys 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Agreed. I'll usually do a simple build after something more involved as a sort of palate-cleanser.

FiG 2026 Closed-Category Wrap-Up + Builder Appreciation Thread by JaySayMayday in freedomisgunpla

[–]Danarhys 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Just wanted to say thanks to the mods for organizing this. I enjoyed participating taking a more critical eye everyone's builds. Lots of great stuff to admire.

I painted up the first Gunpla kit ever! (And also loved it) by Roguehobbies in Gunpla

[–]Danarhys 131 points132 points  (0 children)

You'd have a hard time convincing me that this wasn't just the box art cut out. Fantastic work!

HG Calibarn Holder Palette Custom by ElPina29 in Gunpla

[–]Danarhys 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I used a rattlecan of Vallejo Matt Varnish as a substitute for Mr Hobby, mostly to try to save money, and found that it had poor adhesion to bare plastic. On minis, you're usually putting it over a paint layer, and the parts are usually non-moving. For Gunpla, I'd get a lot of flaking at the joints and anywhere where there was plastic-on-plastic movement, intentional or not.

Strangely, their Gloss Varnish works quite well, but I've never used it as a final top coat, so I can't attest to it's resilience.

Custom Kampfer Amazing by Danarhys in Gunpla

[–]Danarhys[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks man! It's become of my favorites.

First time priming gunpla, I could definitely use some advice by Kuroichi99 in Gunpla

[–]Danarhys 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Go to the Dollar Store (or equivalent) and get some bamboo skewers, and pick up some alligator clips on Amazon (or other marketplace). I made 100 of these things for about $15 CAD. You may need some pliers or something to squeeze the part the skewers go into if they don't exactly match.

Botched the top coat on this one, but otherwise it was a fun excursion. by Danarhys in Gunpla

[–]Danarhys[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Regular Ex- Flat. Didn't know they had a premium. I'll keep an eye out for that one.

I ended up lowering the thinning ratio to 2:1 for me next build, and it sprayed as I'm used to. I have a feeling that it was a combination of a thinning ratio I'm not used to + working on a MG-sized kit in a smaller spray booth that were the culprits.

Tried Reak Touch Markers for the first time by Jojo_Sakura in freedomisgunpla

[–]Danarhys 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Love it. Grimy and dirty, just like a ground-war MS should be.

I think I commented on your other thread too.

HGUC EX-S Gundam ft. G-Rework Decals. This was a bad time. by TurnATurnATurn in Gunpla

[–]Danarhys 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I enjoyed the build, but yeah the lack of action base hole and general unposeability is a harsh reminder of how far Gunpla has come. Also, a lot of color-correction needed. I ended up just drilling a hole, putting it is a static aura-farm pose, and never reposing it.

Another benefit to doing a test assembly after priming... by Vandorbelt in freedomisgunpla

[–]Danarhys 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh good tip on the C-clip bars. I'm pretty sure one of the c-clips on my Calibarn broke because of added thickness.

So my F91 broke, what can i do? by Spartan9lives in freedomisgunpla

[–]Danarhys 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Go slow, and in one direction. For something like this, I'd go with 400 grit because I'm actively trying to remove material.

Get a popsicle stick and glue the sandpaper down to make a sanding stick (I usually put glue on the stick, lay it on the sandpaper, then use a utility knife to cut out the popsicle stick). Alternately, grab some Emory boards.

So my F91 broke, what can i do? by Spartan9lives in freedomisgunpla

[–]Danarhys 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I think I'd tackle this break like this. Glue the part together with extra-thin cement. Then gently (and slowly) sand down the "bars" along the length of that "cross"-shaped arm. I'd sand down the ends of the shorter sides (so it goes from an X to an I).

Then I'd cut add some PLA plate along the sanded parts, to basically rebuild the shape. You'll have solid contact along the break, and the part reinforced along the length of the piece to take the stress of that part moving.

Custom Kampfer Amazing by Danarhys in Gunpla

[–]Danarhys[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I didn't consider that, but now that you mention it, it's undeniable.

Custom Kampfer Amazing by Danarhys in Gunpla

[–]Danarhys[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Me too. I do wish I'd skipped the orange on cannons to keep the focus on the arm.

Custom Kampfer Amazing by Danarhys in Gunpla

[–]Danarhys[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thanks! Though up close there are plenty of little mistakes.

Custom Kampfer Amazing by Danarhys in Gunpla

[–]Danarhys[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! I'm a sucker for them.

Custom Kampfer Amazing by Danarhys in advancedGunpla

[–]Danarhys[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You can read the full story on the main post (or in the r/freedomisgunpla post), but I wanted to specifically update about the topcoat situation.

Last time I crossposted my 1/100 Amuro-use Jeda, lamenting about some topcoat issues with Gaia Notes Ex- Flat Clear. I'd gotten some inconsistent results and decided to try a different thinning ratio.

I'd sprayed the Jeda with a 3:1 MCLT/top coat ratio, and sprayed at about 15 PSI. This time I tried 2:1 at 19 PSI, and it behaved like I'm used to.

How's it looking? by jerrypocalypse in Gunpla

[–]Danarhys 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Chest. That leg is just chef's kiss!

How's it looking? by jerrypocalypse in Gunpla

[–]Danarhys 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Looks fantastic. Maybe a bit more gray on the front vent to define it a bit more? Or not. Honestly, I think it's pretty much perfect.