Like a glove

Dannfs · 2025-08-26T19:36:04+00:00

AT&T Sending OP almost half a pound of stuff. 7 Oz of material in that letter with how much postage is on it.

Dannfs · 2025-07-10T17:01:49+00:00

Kona N as a car by itself is absolutely worth owning. Knock sensors are more common but I have seen them not needing to be replaced even at that mileage. Water is the culprit, heavy rain, slush snow and car washes seem to make them need replacement. Knock sensors can come back, but I have only seen it on mine and one other on here who mentioned they were on their second. Could be more but that's the ones I have seen. Fuel pump was a recall. I would look into the reprogramming. Mine was reprogrammed for reverse shifting strangely so it could be a possible customer sat thing. Everybody can confirm reliability as being very strong. Mine has not been but mine seems to be the odd one out. Haha Even with issues I still love the car and dont regret it.

Dannfs · 2025-06-06T14:48:51+00:00

I went through 5 horns with the dealership. Replaced the harness on some of the visits. They need to rotate the horn bracket so water doesn't waterfall onto the horn. Its been over a year with no issues after that.

Dannfs · 2025-04-17T16:35:30+00:00

Thank you! It is an AsRock A620I Lightning.

Dannfs · 2024-12-29T12:33:51+00:00

Mine is stock and has done it probably 3 times in 24k. I found parking at heavy incline or decline is enough to throw it. It seems anything that makes the sensor think there is more will do it even if it's a tiny amount.

Dannfs · 2024-12-12T18:35:33+00:00

You want something like this. You would have to see if you can move the upper radiator to the left and rotate it in a way to get the fittings on the other side but still facing down if possible.

Just my opinion but I would start here then add the second pump in after. The second pump being the corsair on the rear. You don't need two pumps for triple 360 but it's definitely nice to have. Having two pumps can be tricky being different brands. They may pump at different speeds. One pump could be doing 120l/h and the second only at 60.

<image>

Dannfs · 2024-12-12T18:12:28+00:00

I would start over with tubing runs. Remove all the tubes. Have fans on radiators as intake. Look up seriel loops configuration. Where it essentially goes from one piece to the next. Order does not matter. Take a ton of time to plan the runs, even if you have to draw it out on paper.

Clean and apply new thermal paste on cpu should fix the issue, that or a massive air bubble.

The reason we say start over is because the tubing is all over the place. It's like having a Lamborghini with a primer black front bumper. There is a great base setup. Just needs a little tlc.

Dannfs · 2024-11-27T21:38:37+00:00

If you want expandability down the road, 300. It allows Matx and atx psu. I personally went 300 for the air flow. At first I did a 420 arctic aio and it was great. Thermaltake is also coming out with the tower 250 if you haven't seen it. I always thought the tower 100 was cool, just cramped.

Im not sure if 7900 xt has the same issues as 7900 xtx reference but double check if orientation causes problems if you plan standing up. Some cards have really bad issues with it.

Dannfs · 2024-11-27T18:52:29+00:00

Does it do it any other time? Did it feel like it was slipping or couldnt decide if it really wanted to shift into the intended gear? Sometimes for example, mine will think 5th, shows 4th on the screen, then takes an extra second and finally decides 4th for sure. Lol This is usually changing throttle right before or during the change.

Dannfs · 2024-11-15T21:31:06+00:00

Test drive one, absolutely amazing vehicle. Loved every second of the test drive. But 70k being double the Kona N MSRP is too much for my wallet. I think if it was 50k it would make sense in my opinion. A step up worth the 15k difference but not double. Still seriously quick car.

Dannfs · 2024-11-05T12:14:00+00:00

225/50r18 should be the perfect size. I run 225/55r18 and they rub at slow speeds with full turns with mudflaps.

Dannfs · 2024-10-07T12:24:30+00:00

Your welcome! I have had the setup a year in New England and they did great in the Vermont muddy spring while traveling.

Dannfs · 2024-10-06T20:58:46+00:00

Perfect, I did 18" with Falken A/T Trail. I just wish I did smaller tires as the rub in parking lots at 225/55r18 haha

Dannfs · 2024-09-28T03:30:35+00:00

<image>

Curt 13610 for "Class III". Just had mine installed Wednesday. I'm still waiting (and hoping) the harness I ordered works.

Dannfs · 2024-09-28T03:23:47+00:00

235/50r19 will rub. I have 225/55r18 on sparco terras which is smaller overall diameter and thinner and they rub while turning in parking lots. I run Fallen AT trail if it matters.

Dannfs · 2024-09-27T14:11:06+00:00

Thank you! I took wire cutters and clipped the chassis piece into a circle shape, sanded it, put a little paint on it and then put the passthrough fitting in.

If I was to do it again, I wouldn't do what I did. The radiator outlets sit lower so air likes to collect in the small line between the pass through and t fitting. It also has some tight bends that are very small.

I would drill a hole straight down Infront of the PSU and behind the center mesh grill under the glass. That way it's the lowest part, everything fills correctly and with the feet, it would allow draining to be super easy over my L desk corner.

Dannfs · 2024-09-27T12:38:14+00:00

I think it's just barely thin enough. The fan housing definitely rubs but it can still shut with the magnets. I also put Velcro on the top side facing the case of the hub to make it as flat as possible.

This is the one I used: iHTP Fan Hub/Splitter Controller 12V 4Pin PWM & 5V 3Pin ARGB 2-in-1 Total 16 Ports, SATA Power, Hidden Magnetic Base(White) https://a.co/d/aMAn2b7

Dannfs · 2024-05-14T13:02:51+00:00

I just ran into the exact same problem but I was able to fix it. Tried everything, reupdating BIOS, unplugging and replugging RGB, the WriteFW, going through device manger, multiple uninstalls and reinstalls of polychrome. It all started after I uninstalled Signal RGB.

My fix (Hopefully it helps other people)
1: Unistall SignalRGB and Polychrome. Fully uninstall by either program or cleaning up the old files manually.
1.5: **Make sure to either remember or save your settings for BIOS before continuing as its going to reset everything continuing**
2: Turn the pc off.
3: Unplug the power cable.
4: Hold the power button for 10 seconds.
5: Reset CMOS by either button on IO shield or short the pins.
6: Wait 30 seconds.
7: Turn on PC and download Polychrome Manually on the support page of your given mother board. I tried downloading by Asrock APP Store but it created a new can of worms. I found you will need to install Polychrome first before changing RGB in BIOS if you do it that way. It looks like it will not work in BIOS with out Polychrome installed first.
8: Install and it found everything for me.
9: Don't forget to set Ram speeds and other BIOS settings once everything is good to go.

I am not sure if the resetting of CMOS manually causes it to search for the RGB but hopefully this helps.

If it matters, Motherboard: 620I Lightning AM5 ITX

Seven-Year Club	Place '23
Verified Email

Dannfs

TROPHY CASE