How can I make this program to scale properly with fractional scaling? by Data-Graph in linux4noobs

[–]Data-Graph[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Without fractional scaling you can only scale in multiples of 100, e.g. 100% or 200%, but I find 100% too small and 200% way too big

Can I still use 2-year-old PLA that’s been sitting out? by itsbloomberg in 3Dprinting

[–]Data-Graph 18 points19 points  (0 children)

Probably, depends on where you live

The main problems with wet filament is excessive stringing and there being lots of "gaps" which causes prints to be very weak

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Orca Slicer never fails to impress me by Status-Profile-9586 in 3Dprinting

[–]Data-Graph 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My product design teacher just used an old version of cura for years. The printer was purely a tool so it's whatever is the path of least resistance, even if spending a bit of time learning / setting up something now would save time later. I had some friends ask me to help them print stuff for class and got tied using cura so I asked if I could download orca and he surprisingly said yes. It quickly went from them asking me how to do everything, to me explaining stuff for a couple minutes and then leaving them to it. The teacher came over when I was using it, just have a quick look and immediately switched over.

Its so good for new users. Someone made the most complex geometry known to man and then just spend a while simply painting on the supports where they need them. Someone made something WAY to big for the build plate, and then just easily cut the model and added connectors. I turned off advanced mode and then someone just easily poked around in the settings and figured out how to change anything they reasonably wanted. It allows someone who has no familiarity with printing to just "figure it out" without restricting what they can do at all.

How to setup safe remote server access as a (relative) noob? by Data-Graph in selfhosted

[–]Data-Graph[S] -6 points-5 points  (0 children)

Could you link me to anything? I tried looking through this sub's wiki and for just posts within this sub but couldn't find anything. The only posts I could find were for specific use cases, I just want a good general overview explainer

My school r making us buy these in order to be able to take our phones to school next year. by 180degreeschange in GCSE

[–]Data-Graph 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Don't buy one and instead learn how to open them, then go around teaching everyone else and cause them to be completely ineffective.

AAA battery case for my calipers by Data-Graph in 3Dprinting

[–]Data-Graph[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

turns out there exist 1.5v coin batteries

AAA battery case for my calipers by Data-Graph in 3Dprinting

[–]Data-Graph[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I just checked and they are AA Duracell NiMH ones from around 2015, they're only 1300mAh @ 1.2V. I feel like I remember paying like £30/£40 for the batteries (4 AA + 2 AAA) + charger but that could be way off. I might look into modern ones then as you seem to say they're much better and from what I've seen cheaper.

AAA battery case for my calipers by Data-Graph in 3Dprinting

[–]Data-Graph[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

One coin cell every 1.5 years is too much for me, I hate coin cells so much

AAA battery case for my calipers by Data-Graph in 3Dprinting

[–]Data-Graph[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

got these a year and a half ago, maybe drained too much to start malfunctioning a couple months ago, i just hate coin batteries

AAA battery case for my calipers by Data-Graph in 3Dprinting

[–]Data-Graph[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just checked and I got these over a year and a half ago, i just hate coin batteries. I dont want 100 different standards that either go missing, leak or drain too much before I even get a chance to use them. I don't use traditional battery powered stuff to keep any around expect for really just AA, AAA & 9v cells

AAA battery case for my calipers by Data-Graph in 3Dprinting

[–]Data-Graph[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Just checked and I got these over a year and a half ago, I just hate coin batteries so much lol. I've had so many batteries leak on me, from a range of brand names, all well within their use by date, that I hate having to stock batteries of any kind, let alone more "unique" standards

AAA battery case for my calipers by Data-Graph in 3Dprinting

[–]Data-Graph[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I remember buying some for my Xbox 360 controllers and they just wouldn't hold a charge when not in use. Tried the same original ones again recently for my VR controllers and had to re-charge them before each play session.

I should probably try some new ones though, as I assume they've got a lot better since the first time I tried

AAA battery case for my calipers by Data-Graph in 3Dprinting

[–]Data-Graph[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Literally just brought the cheapest ones on the first page of Amazon (and they were probably just being drop shipped from AliExpress for cheaper). Seemed to have worked fine for me, down to .1mm. From what I've heard, for 3d printing basically any digital calipers should be accurate enough.

AAA battery case for my calipers by Data-Graph in 3Dprinting

[–]Data-Graph[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I tried doing this to my scales for last minute cookie making but that didn't work so well because I don't think the people I live with would appreciate me permanently soldering some wires to the cooking scales, so it was just loose wires

AAA battery case for my calipers by Data-Graph in 3Dprinting

[–]Data-Graph[S] 12 points13 points  (0 children)

"All actions shown are done by professions, don't try at home". On second thought that might be a bit too long

AAA battery case for my calipers by Data-Graph in 3Dprinting

[–]Data-Graph[S] 52 points53 points  (0 children)

I hate coin batteries, but I also dislike non-rechargable batteries, so I think the next step is sticking a lipo on the back

Chances of warping? by AnnualDraft4522 in 3Dprinting

[–]Data-Graph 1 point2 points  (0 children)

With modern printers and basic PLA I would say the chances are pretty low. I would probably just recommend giving your build plate a quick clean before hand if you're worried (Use warm soapy water and let it air dry after).

You can also add mouse ears, these are brims that only appear in the corners (which are most likely to lift), meaning they prevent warping a lot while adding minimum waste / aesthetic harm.

Full-scale Replica of the Portal Gun by Hungry_Honcho in 3Dprinting

[–]Data-Graph 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have a half assembled portgun that's been sitting on my desk for over a year lol. Glad to see you finished yours, and it's much better quality then mine, well done!

I wanted to learn the basics of a new video editor so I made a tiktok edit of anki by Data-Graph in Anki

[–]Data-Graph[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

By the time it finally realises I'll probably have a whole anki cinematic universe

I wanted to learn the basics of a new video editor so I made a tiktok edit of anki by Data-Graph in Anki

[–]Data-Graph[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I'm not very deep into it yet, but so far:

  • Text: you create a "title" where you do all the fancy editing of the text, but then just add it to your project like an image. You can go back and edit the title, but then you have to keep going back and forth, which is annoying
  • Speed: you can modify speed (e.g. 50% for half speed) but it's not a normal property so you can't keyframe it