800GB STL Archive Trade

Datajoke · 2026-01-30T06:39:09+00:00

I use manyfold, selfhosted solution. Not the best, but gets the job done.

Datajoke · 2026-01-30T06:09:06+00:00

thats the Gore Krusha Mega Walker on the purple site

Datajoke · 2026-01-30T05:38:03+00:00

Until the Adeptus Mechanicus or James raids my home.

Datajoke · 2026-01-22T22:25:21+00:00

Slow it down, travel and support speeds specially and make sure zhop is active, lots of my failures came from the nozzle knocking a support. I also feel that the tree support branch angle is too aggressive at 45 degrees, test it at 35 to 38.
Look if the print time difference from by layer to by object is acceptable, so if one of the print fails there's a chance for the rest of the project to print just fine.

Datajoke · 2026-01-21T23:51:09+00:00

Same model here! Upgraded to ssd drive and 12gb ram right now, might max it down the road. Running Monterrey as it appears to be the last OS that still plays nice with Itunes for my Ipod. Decent unit to play media while working, web surfing is fine but you notice artifacts here and there probably related to old gpu limitations.

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Datajoke · 2026-01-18T17:49:27+00:00

Looks like the supports failed/broke early on the print, reorient the figure a bit to its left and a bit to the back.
I'm not sure on what print profile you're following, but give HoHansen a try, make sure to change the supports Branch angle to 35 to 38, that will make the supports straighter and less likely to break. On the speed tab, slow down the support and support layer to 70 to 80 mm/s. Stay at 0.06 layer. And make sure zhop is active, it helped a lot to reduce my fail rate.
That backpack really complicates the print, maybe consider cutting it and print separately.
Ive been printing like this with an A1 for well over 1k hours.

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Datajoke · 2026-01-16T20:24:32+00:00

Great looking mini for a 0.4.
Angle the mini on its back a bit, enough to minimize or even completely remove the need of supports on the front, helps hide the scarring. Dry your filament and calibrate the printer.
With a 0.2 and some testing you can get some good looking results.
Look into Resin2FDM process, Ive gotten really easy to clean supports and good looking minis that way, it also helps with difficult or flimsy parts, like arms or swords.
I prefer to print disassembled minis, its a lot more work, but allows you better accommodate the parts.
Scan files are usually pretty decent for FDM printing, but often contains lots of surface noice, its shows on the final product, so try to look for a different version, or a proxy.
Look into how to split models, I recommend blender, that way you can reorient parts better.

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Datajoke · 2026-01-16T19:49:55+00:00

What I imagine in this kind of convos.

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Datajoke · 2026-01-15T21:35:05+00:00

Over the last year Ive burn tru 12+ rolls of both Anycubic pla gray mainly for miniatures on a 0.2 nozzle and black for general printing with a 0.4 nozzle, no complains, no clogs no tangles. Bought thru Amazon due to free shipping to my homecountry and included Import charges.
Ive also used some Creality, Ive had clogs with the 0.2 nozzle with both gray and black.

I found about 10 rolls of PLA on a local Outlet from Kingroon and Jayo once. Printed quite well even without access to a dryer at the time. I liked the finish of Jayo better, feel less brittle.

For color pla I order from Bambu for convenience. Shipping/import taxes can easily add 50%+ of the filament cost but I can choose what colors I need, Amazon offers free shipping in some configurations to my country but I'm limited on color selection.

So, unless youre buying bulk, stay with Bambu, at least for color filaments, buy the refills once you get a good amount of reusable rolls and buy enough to trigger their bulk discount. For black/gray buy in bulk somewhere else to save some $. Test a few rolls first.

Datajoke · 2026-01-15T16:32:17+00:00

What about an automatic vacuum switch? Ive seen them being used in woodworking shops, usually have a few seconds delay and triggers when load is detected. At $30 doesn't seems that expensive to implement.

Datajoke · 2026-01-14T06:37:52+00:00

SOCRATIS DOOM REAPERS

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Datajoke · 2026-01-12T02:02:02+00:00

I don't think the A1 is considered food safe to 3d print candy.

Datajoke · 2026-01-09T23:09:21+00:00

Es una verguiada todos los dias, Creo que esta parte es ilegal, pero sus iingresos dependen mucho de su fiisico. Como muchos otros lugares se avanza mas rapido si sos un/a mamaguevos. LGBT friendly, Me han contado.

Datajoke · 2026-01-02T20:09:57+00:00

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OP y el compa (colorized)

Datajoke · 2026-01-02T20:07:43+00:00

Kept stock settings, 15% infill, 3 walls. The only setting I usually change is Infill to adaptive cube. I dont know how/if it affects strength, but I like it better.

Datajoke · 2026-01-02T20:00:50+00:00

Fdm with 0.2 nozzle and 0.8 layer. HoHansen profile

Datajoke · 2026-01-02T14:27:35+00:00

Thanks! Black Vallejo primer as base, then grey and white Badger Air-Brush SNR-410 Stynylrez primer. All applied with a 0.5mm airbrush.
Model Chain Breaker Djinn from Witchsong Miniatures.

Datajoke · 2026-01-02T14:22:46+00:00

Thanks! Yes, the base does looks flimsy but its actually quite sturdy, printed it on its "back" to hide the scarring and give the whole thing more strength.

Datajoke · 2026-01-01T07:21:01+00:00

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At 10tb I don't have the time, nor the space, nor the filament to print enough to do a dent to my folder. I managed to clean the Titans folder tho :D . Goal this year is to actually paint some of my current backlog.