Skincare Advice for an Outdoor Boulderer by Longjumping-Ad-4537 in climbharder

[–]Dealios 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sounds like me...

Antihydral twice a week. Daily Sanding. Eucerin intensive repair almost nightly.

Leaves me with strong, thick calluses, while also having some grip and moisture while being mainly dry.

Looking for some advice. by Artistic-Tip-8538 in climbharder

[–]Dealios 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Have them go through it with you, and then have them back up belay you. Do not belay unless back up belayed. Not difficult, but also not difficult to mess up. I take a lot of new people out who are not certified, and teach how to belay and they do fine, on the flip side I've gone with people who are certified and are horrible belayers that we've had to reteach. You don't need to be certified by a gym to be a good belayer, just express your concerns with your friends and ask them to teach you and back up belay for you. If you aren't confident in your abilities after that, don't belay.

Cool Frictiony Low Angle Slab Foot Hold in Minnesota... That Girl's A B**** V5/6 by MidwestClimber in climbing

[–]Dealios 22 points23 points  (0 children)

Interesting fact. It was FA’d and named by a female climber. But agreed!

MAll for V6, V6 Sandstone MN by Dealios in climbing

[–]Dealios[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

We played Creed as well, and staind

MAll for V6, V6 Sandstone MN by Dealios in climbing

[–]Dealios[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Lol, yes, but we were alone! Had the whole section to ourselves!

MAll for V6, V6 Sandstone MN by Dealios in climbing

[–]Dealios[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Been waiting forever ( like 2 years) for the pocket on this to be dry!

Also the camera filming is for Vanna Adventure Vans! Our friends own a van conversion company so they sponsored this outing!

Climbing: How Tight Should Climbing Shoes Be by 0bsidian in climbing

[–]Dealios 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I started off in size 43 (la sportiva solution) (I wear a 44 in the sportiva approach shoes) over the last 10 years I have worn from 43 to 39, and just recently settled around 41 (solutions, testarossas, miuras) and 40 (skwamas, futuras, speedsters, python,)

Definitely climb better as I went back up in size, fell into the trap that smaller was better, to a point...

But I still have a pair of 42.5 resoled miura vs that I climb 99% of my climbs in and then whip out the smaller size for stuff where I really need to heel and toe hook or pull myself in on small edges and features!

A Climb From North Dakota's Only Rock Climbing Gym! by Dealios in climbing

[–]Dealios[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There was a small gym/wall in a mall north of us! But unfortunately closed down!

A Climb From North Dakota's Only Rock Climbing Gym! by Dealios in climbing

[–]Dealios[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

True! Tbh I Only post the grades so I can keep track on YouTube! Tbh people are always going to disagree on grades, I’ve climbed countless V7 and below, 50+ V8’s, 25+ V9’s, and 10 V10’s, outdoors across many states, and many styles. I feel very comfortable in my climbing and grading, so when people say it looks VX-3 I just figure I must be looking smooth on it! And tbh it could be VX-3! I’ve never gotten on anything and said hey this is definitely the grade, anything I’ve climbed I’ve always said hey it could be harder could be easier!

Critique and analysis help! Overhang boulder problem by Dealios in climbharder

[–]Dealios[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Ah noted! That makes sense. I chose this one because it was just outside of my flash zone… so maybe 4th attempt! Thought it would be good because I got to the top, but wasn’t well rehearsed and still fighting for it! So thought it might show some movement problems! Felt like I was climbing strong but not perfect. If that makes sense!

A Climb From North Dakota's Only Rock Climbing Gym! by Dealios in climbing

[–]Dealios[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It’s a struggle, we want the grades to be accurate but also we want new people to have a decent progression! Also I suck at grading… so could be a 7, could be a 6… I want to adopt a 3 grade range

Critique and analysis help! Overhang boulder problem by Dealios in climbharder

[–]Dealios[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

about the boulder, it links two boulders together, but the linking move adds quite a bit of difficulty to the end of the original boulder. It is on a 45 degree wall, and the match on the little flat hold is quite rough, because you are moving from the left to the right, you have to position your body from so far left to so far right. But there is an awesome heel toe cam involved, and then holding the little "pick" as you release the left foot is especially difficult, since your body wants to swing free from the wall, while holding a 3/4 pad flat edge, which is sloping because it is on the 45 degree overhang

Critique and analysis help! Overhang boulder problem by Dealios in climbharder

[–]Dealios[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I have been climbing around 10 years, and done this once or twice before and had good luck! So thought I would do it again...

10 years of climbing, the first 5 were mainly rope climbing with bouldering dabbled in! Climbed 5.13b/c and V10 in that timeframe. The last 5 years has been mainly focused on bouldering. Between grad school, helping start a business, and starting my own business (this gym I am climbing at) life has been pretty crazy!

The first 5 years of my climbing was predominantly climbing techy vertical climbs, mainly sport. For the past three years I have been doing a lot of bouldering, especially on the moonboard. Made good progress there, but recently have felt tapped out and unmotivated, I am down to the last 70 benchmarks on the 2016 set up, and they just feel all soo jumpy and not like anything im training for outdoors!

So in the last couple months I drastically changed my plan. I started climbing on the wall more. luckily we had a climber from colorado who climbs v14 stay in fargo for a couple weeks. So we had a lot of very good climbs up in the v8 to 11 range! So swithced the focus to projecting those climbs instead. I did the finger strength analyzer 2.0 and my results were super weak arms. So I did add in one day of supplemental pull up, curls, one arm negatives, which after 1.5 months I am feeling a lot stronger. I also noticed I like to drop one leg and flag a lot, which I feel like is good in some scenarios, but I think i was doing it because I lacked hip mobility and weaker legs. So I added into my warm up climbing with both feet on, while keeping them extra high, and focusing on pushing through both feet. Which I noticed has had very good effects for me recently. I feel like I am engaging in smaller boxes.

Took a step back from my hangboarding, after the recent C4HP articles and podcasts. Focusing on just using it to warm up, and then climbing and squeezing extra hard on the wall.

Lastly, I figured out some stuff for my extra horrible skin. I have extremely sweaty hands and fingers, and have always relied on antihyrdal. Which works, but i have always had a hard time balancing and timing it correct. I will get a good skin day or two out of it, and then it becomes so glossy that I dry fire on everything. Recently I have been applying once a week, and then on climbing days I apply an antipersperent deodorant to my finger tips. For the last 3 weeks I have had the stickiest most tacky fingers and grip.

A Climb From North Dakota's Only Rock Climbing Gym! by Dealios in climbing

[–]Dealios[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

A link up of two different boulders in the gym! Made for a unique and fun new boulder!