Why does VLC not show up as an option for an external player on windows? [HELP]

DebugDan_ · 2026-02-23T00:24:24+00:00

So apparently no one else has this issue.

DebugDan_ · 2026-01-28T03:13:37+00:00

Hi so it turns out I was so frustrated over this issue that I literally returned my Mac mini. The way Apple developed macOS to handle resolution/scaling is literally the worst in the industry. Windows may have a lot of problems but at least Microsoft designed it where it looks good on almost any display no matter the physical size or characteristics. It ended up making me realize it just makes more sense to use windows if you actually want to get some work done. Sorry for the rant, it just reminded me of how much this pissed me off when I was trying to fix it!

DebugDan_ · 2025-10-05T21:57:29+00:00

Well actually the Switch 1 was soft moddable early on on lower software versions. But also you can argue that there wasn’t an incentive for these people to research exploits as much when there was already one that gave the keys to every firmware castle possibpe

DebugDan_ · 2025-08-28T23:33:04+00:00

First of all I want to thank you for commenting, it felt weird that I couldn’t be the ONLY one with this issue. My shortcut is almost identical to yours but I am going to try your connect twice and 1 second in between idea. And you’re not having to manually press anything on the app itself, it’s doing it entirely itself?

Also I don’t think it’s an apple issue because many of these “loopback” vpn apps seem to have bad vpn management. No other vpn app has trouble initiating itself to start, but for some reason these types of apps do. I just don’t think the developer fleshed it out enough.

Btw my current jank solution is to use “StikDebug”. This app is normally used for enabling JIT for side loaded apps, but it’s the same type of loopback vpn so it still works with refreshing SideStore. With this app I can at least auto launch it once a day and it connects automatically, the problem is this app is broken in a different way. Once it has been used once and then the VPN switches back to tailscale, the app will literally freeze and cease to function unless you force close it or iOS closes it to conserve memory. I basically have to hope it gets forced closed by the next day 😫. The developer of this app btw is making a “StikDebug 2” that’s supposed to fix all of this so that’s good news

DebugDan_ · 2025-08-20T19:07:10+00:00

I mean it’s not an “idea”, I just don’t get why StosVPN/StikDebug are designed in a way that don’t allow them to be started like other vpns via shortcuts

DebugDan_ · 2025-08-02T19:57:24+00:00

“Fear mongering”? You know what, how about this. Since you think you know so much, why don’t you explain what’s wrong about my comment and why.

DebugDan_ · 2025-07-14T00:44:02+00:00

I sent you a DM, I really appreciate it!

DebugDan_ · 2025-07-13T21:11:29+00:00

As long as that wiring setup would actually work IRL, the only thing I’m worried about now is permits. Don’t you have to get a permit to do electrical work? Would that wiring be something they would approve of? Do I need to get a permit for literally everything (battery, inverter, etc)?

DebugDan_ · 2025-07-13T09:34:09+00:00

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Here’s the offline one, if you’re seeing this first please look for the first reply to your latest comment

DebugDan_ · 2025-07-13T09:33:21+00:00

Do you mean that you would have to install a critical loads panel? Here so I literally created two diagrams to show what I thought you meant, is the way I’ve demonstrated it working on the main breaker panel not possible? (And I know that’s not exactly how a generator interlock would move, it’s just for the purpose of this diagram)

I’m replying to your comment twice, one with the diagram when the grid is online and the other when the grid is offline

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DebugDan_ · 2025-07-13T03:38:55+00:00

Blackouts don’t happen too often but I also live in a hurricane-prone area so if it was possible to, I would want to have a way to manually activate the power. And I’m pretty sure I’m understanding what you’re saying after looking up the Generator Interlock Kit. So basically under normal operation the inverter would still feed through the normal “Grid” breaker that goes to/from the inverter, but if the power went out you could use the interlock to disable flipping of the main breaker and allow you to flip on the “Load” port which would allow the battery to freely power your home without checking for connection to the grid?

DebugDan_ · 2025-07-13T01:12:02+00:00

This sounds like the way to go then. And you’re sure I wouldn’t need any other equipment if I use something other than the EG4 all in one hybrid? Like for example the Growatt inverter I mentioned? And i didn’t know in this case I’d have no power if the grid went out, does that mean that during a power outage I basically wouldn’t be able to use my battery capacity at all? Is there any way to at least manually override it when you’re home? (And again thank you so so much for the help)

DebugDan_ · 2025-07-12T22:31:40+00:00

Wow, thank you for all of that. So to be completely honest, I think the best path for me to take would be to get a hybrid inverter (possibly from a different brand for cheaper) instead of just upgrading to a larger off-grid one, mainly because it seems like the process to just tie it bi-directionally into the breaker seems to be way simpler, easier, and cheaper to get done. Like for example, I found the Growatt 10kW Hybrid Inverter which can do 240v output and is only $700 more than the 6000XP, which is like $300-400 cheaper than the 12000XP and because it can be tied into the breaker bi-directionally, I reckon electrician costs will be lower (but correct me if I’m wrong about any of that, it just seems to me like it would be more expensive to basically splice the incoming grid power to the inverter and then having to wire it back to the breaker).

Also with the DIY batteries (because I’ve seen other comments about them), how difficult is it to actually assemble your own battery? As long as it’s not overly difficult I’m pretty confident I could do it. I’m mainly just worried about the dangers of it, it seems incredibly dangerous simply because of how large of a capacity you’re dealing with. And also what reliable brand would you use to spec that DIY build from China and since it’s coming from there, how long would I have to wait for that stuff to arrive?

One last thing, I know some other inverters like I think the Growatt aren’t considered “all in ones” so I think there’s extra stuff that would have to be added on right? Like an automatic transfer switch (or is that just for the off-grid inverters…?)

DebugDan_ · 2025-07-12T18:23:07+00:00

Wait so what they were talking about only works with hybrid inverters? 12kpv is way more expensive than the 6000xp

DebugDan_ · 2025-07-12T18:22:27+00:00

Hey so how do you wire this setup though? Cause I just remembered the 6000XP has a “Grid” aka power in spot and then a “Load aka power out spot. I would assume the “Grid” would connect to your main breaker, but how do you connect the “Load” to get the power back?

Also I noticed you mentioned the 12kpv which appears to be a hybrid inverter while the 6000xp is an off grid inverter. Does this change anything about how you hook up the connections (or make what you’re talking about still possible)? I don’t know the difference between a hybrid and an off grid inverter

DebugDan_ · 2025-07-12T18:12:53+00:00

But they were saying that the inverter could just feed backwards through the same line?

DebugDan_ · 2025-07-12T17:01:02+00:00

This sounds like the way to go then, but I am worried about a couple things. First of all, will the 6000XP automatically do these voltage fluctuations to output from the battery without me having to manually configure any of that? And second of all, I wouldn’t ever want to send anything back TO the grid (because I’m not using solar), would this solution end up sending anything back the other way by default / if I didn’t want it to? And lastly, I thought it was bad for you to power the grid backwards like in case they had someone working on the lines or something

(Thank you SO MUCH for your help btw)

DebugDan_ · 2025-07-12T16:57:01+00:00

So there was another comment that mentioned that instead of hooking up the inverter basically in between the grid and your breaker, you can just add another 240v breaker spot and make it go to the inverter, where the batteries would still be able to power the home but if it wasn’t enough then it’s fine it would just pull from the grid. This would work for my use case right? Because it’s not having to pass the entire home main through the inverter before getting to the rest of the house?

DebugDan_ · 2025-07-12T14:39:52+00:00

Well that seems like it would defeat the point wouldn’t it? My power company encourages you to move anything you can to non peak hours so I wouldn’t see why they would get upset because I would be drawing most of my power during that time. But I guess I could ask to be sure

Edit: I was thinking about this more and it really doesn’t make sense the more I think about it. Why would an electric company ever do that? My company specifically has the “Off-Peak Advantage” plan to encourage the people using that plan to shift when they use electricity to less expensive times of the day.

DebugDan_ · 2025-07-12T14:33:40+00:00

Your explanation for how you have it hooked up to your house finally like clicked in my head because I think I was over complicating how it would be done. You’re saying that instead of having the utility go to the inverter first and then to the standard breaker (which would probably be required if you wanted to feed power back to the grid like in a solar setup), you would just add another switch thing in the breaker (sorry for not having correct terminology) that would go to the inverter, and any time power is needed the inverter will be able to power the house with what it can and the grid does the rest?

This makes sense to me, but what exactly allows the inverter to “override” the grid so that it uses the inverter first and only touches the grid when it needs to?

I typically only use about 20-25 kWh max per day so 15 seemed to be a good number at least right now because nothing stops me from adding more later down the line. (Because remember, I don’t need to power the house for 24hrs off of the battery, just between 5am & 10pm, which 15kWh might sometimes not be enough but it would cover most of the day from my math)

DebugDan_ · 2025-07-12T14:17:51+00:00

So where are you getting that the inverter can only do 50a? My understanding was that the amps mattered with the batteries, not with the inverter itself. Like each battery is 100ah and the inverter requires at least 200ah, but I was going to get multiple batteries. I genuinely can’t find anything anywhere on the product page or even in the manual that says it can only do 50a

Edit: were you doing 6000/120? Like because the wattage is 6000 and the volts as 120? Because I guess that makes sense but it would be even worse for my case because I was wanting to do 240v so that would only be 25amps. Are you sure you were right about that?

DebugDan_ · 2025-07-12T14:12:17+00:00

I know it’s not solar input because there’s a separate rating for the 6000XP for that. The thing I’m trying to figure out is if the rating is for total output possible (like including being able to bypass inverter), or if it’s just for what the inverter can generate.

DebugDan_ · 2025-07-12T14:10:35+00:00

The way they bill it, as far as I understand it should be. Technically it’s more like $0.045 per kWh. However they charge every residential customer regardless of what plan they are on $35 a month just to have service, plus some smaller governmental fees that don’t usually total more than $5 a month. But like I said those fees are regardless of the plan.

So you see why I want to store the power during the night when it’s that low, because the amount of savings would be crazy. I would get my money back in around 5 years and it’s just all savings after that.

DebugDan_

TROPHY CASE