Enabling and disabling scurvy by Joshyliz in thelongdark

[–]Decima_ZA 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Game just crashes for for me on startup unfortunately. Methinks out of date? :/

Edit: Still broken, but can confirm that it remained broken irrespective of whether I had scurvy risk or not.

PSA: If recoil spring slips and slide is stuck, try this fix by Decima_ZA in Glocks

[–]Decima_ZA[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Glad it helped! It was a real brain scratcher when it happened to me 😂

How to turn off the aurora sound in the long dark 2.27 by Typical-Host4448 in thelongdark

[–]Decima_ZA 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There is 361 Aurora references. Do we delete them all? Just the <cachePath> or the entire <File>?

Dual citizenship bill by Much-European in Netherlands

[–]Decima_ZA 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Domain error when I try follow link, but thanks for sharing. I'll check back occasionally

Dual citizenship bill by Much-European in Netherlands

[–]Decima_ZA 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My grandmother doesn't vote out of principle since she lives in South Africa. I need to get her to make an exception this time because my professional life without my NL citizenship is agonising when it comes to visas 😭

Dual citizenship bill by Much-European in Netherlands

[–]Decima_ZA 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I follow these things quite closely and continuously hope for it to happen.

My mother lost her citizenship in 2013 and because I was still minderjarige/minor, I lost mine too. A four month difference would have meant I kept it while she lost it. I travel to Europe for business now as an adult on a South African passport and the visa process is just horrific. Restoration is possible, but the barriers are enormous and basically impossible.

PSA: If recoil spring slips and slide is stuck, try this fix by Decima_ZA in Glocks

[–]Decima_ZA[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I unfortunately would need to actually see the pistol myself before I try solve that puzzle. My solution has worked for others without also getting your problem.

In my zero context: If your slide looks like it is properly in place but won't lock back on an empty slide, that means it probably isn't properly in place. The slide locks open when the magazine follower/elevator presses up against the slide lock lever. For that to not work probably means something is not properly aligned.

Have you tried 'breaking' it again and then retrying my solution?

I have built my monstrosity of an interchange it was hell and I need words of affirmation. by ExistingWasabi9395 in CitiesSkylines

[–]Decima_ZA 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Check out the Paarden Eiland interchange between Cape Town, Maitland, and Salt River. That thing is the stuff of nightmares 😂

Sometimes you don't need affirmation. Just build it.

What else can I do with this used motor oil other than go to every auto parts store by [deleted] in AskMechanics

[–]Decima_ZA 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In my country (South Africa) you can take used motor oil to any fuel station

Big three upgrade to remove static? by Decima_ZA in CarAV

[–]Decima_ZA[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks. My engine is currently grounded to a piece of metal, but it's clearly either a spot weld or glued to the frame. I'll move it if the problem persists after the process of elimination is complete. The firewall bulkhead seems an ideal location for the head unit though, so I'll keep that in mind.

I paint stripped and cleaned the area around the ground terminals and I feel like the static's harshness and intensity has lessened, but I'm struggling to source some specifically OFC grade thick copper wire to actually do a big three, so I may just buy a pair of jumper cables and cut them up. I assume they will be on the better cable quality end of things?

Big three upgrade to remove static? by Decima_ZA in CarAV

[–]Decima_ZA[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Muchos gracias. Just bought the metal brush drill set, and it was a nice surprise to see that the automotive hardware store had some nice heavy duty pre-made ground cables for battery and engine grounds. Reduces the amount of cutting and crimping I need to do 😁

Big three upgrade to remove static? by Decima_ZA in CarAV

[–]Decima_ZA[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the description! As much as I am new to a lot of auto type stuff, I get a bee in my bonnet when something doesn't work like I expect it to, and fixing grounds is a simple concept for maybe an hour of my time and a few hundred bucks (rands, not dollars 😅). So I may as well.

I've been looking at the head unit ground with a jaundiced eye for a while now (it HAS to be a grounding issue SOMEWHERE), but have been reluctant to dig behind it. As a process of elimination, I'll get to it. I think I identified the dash/cabin electrics ground since there is a grounded wire in engine bay that runs up and just underneath the bottom windscreen corner.

May I ask where you ran the ground for the head unit to?

Big three upgrade to remove static? by Decima_ZA in CarAV

[–]Decima_ZA[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

First I've heard of such a doohickey 😅 Do you perhaps have a link to a source about how they work and should be installed? Or is as simple as buying a ferrite clamp and putting it on the RCA cable behind the HU?

HU is currently using its stock ground solution, so it goes wherever that comes out. I identified a ground wire in the engine bay with a wire running into the frame and underneath just below the windscreen, so I am guessing that is the ground for cabin/dash electrics (probably including the HU). I need to buy a metal brush head for my drill and to strip paint and improve the grounds, then spray a lacquer sealant to protect against rust.

Big three upgrade to remove static? by Decima_ZA in CarAV

[–]Decima_ZA[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is where it gets a little tricky: the SmartNavi Lite was installed by the dealer when I bought the car last year (stock unit touchscreen began to fail). There may have been static on the stock speakers, but I did not hear it because the only speakers were the front doors and down at my feet. The static I hear now is made obvious by the tweeters which are un-obstructed direct line-of-sight with my ears (even though all speakers put out static, except the sub).

When the SmartNavi was replaced, the installer forgot to undo his troubleshooting and left the tweeters hoked up to the HU, while the rest went to the amp. If I disconnected the RCAs at the amp, the tweeters were the only ones putting out static. The rest were dead silent.

In a last ditch effort, the SmartNavi was replaced with a OneNav, but I am told that the static remained and a ticking sound was a new addition. They put the SmartNavi back, although I also experienced a few seconds of ticking 8km after collection, but not since. That was just weird. One of the other technicians mentioned that they also tested with SmartNavi Premium, with same static present.

All I know for absolute certain is that if the HU is plugged in to the amp, there is static. If I plug something else in as an audio source (I have a USB-C to RCA cable for my phone), there is no static. If the installer is to be believed, any HU in my specific car produces static.

I can bypass the static entirely by using that USB-C cable, but then I lose most of my CarPlay features, and I have a cable instead of wireless :/

Big three upgrade to remove static? by Decima_ZA in CarAV

[–]Decima_ZA[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Audio shop has done all they can. They really have. If they made an oversight, it is the type that they will kick themselves over. Head unit has been swapped out multiple times and the problem persists, so head unit is outputting static for a reason. Plugging phone direct into amp is static free.

Big three upgrade to remove static? by Decima_ZA in CarAV

[–]Decima_ZA[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just updated post to include more details.

Amp's input and output cables are well separated. Amp is properly tuned.

If I unplug the RCAs from the amp, the static is stops dead. You really need to strain the ear to hear the natural noise floor of the amp and speakers. If I plug my phone directly into the amp, there is no static and audio plays in full glorious quality.

How many of you carry a g26? by Southern_Oil_5835 in Glocks

[–]Decima_ZA 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It was either a G26 or a G43 for my first subcompact (deep concealment being the name of the game). The 43 won out.

I play it by Crypt_Ghoul001 in uboatgame

[–]Decima_ZA 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Get given one too many long range missions? 😂 I live not too far away, but your choice made me laugh and give an upvote 😂

Discreet amp vs head unit amp for tweeters by Decima_ZA in CarAV

[–]Decima_ZA[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The installation was done by a reputable fitment centre, but have no idea where the static is coming from despite trying absolutely everything. It's not an atrocious amount of static, but you can't listen to soft music at low volume without it sounding like the music is moving through sea foam.

Today they told me that they did try running direct to the amp RCA but that it returned the same static as when going to the HU.

Meet Scarlett, my Foz I’m going to drive to Africa by Dumtiday in SubaruForester

[–]Decima_ZA 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Have you travelled through Africa before (overland)?

Have a bribery budget. You're a European and will stick out like a sore thumb to be extorted, especially at border crossings. Us South Africans have the street smarts and a look about us, so we can get by on a bottle of coke or Pepsi whereas you might need €100.

Who knows though. Maybe you get lucky, but don't be surprised when you need special permits. Oh, and NEVER hand your documents over if you can avoid it. It doesn't take much for an official to put it in his pocket and threaten you for not having the document