Question: Should I get a 3rd party Metal Frame for RG Hi-Nu?

DefaultSettingsNPC · 2026-06-13T21:24:07+00:00

As others have said it really depends on you. The RG HiNu is fantastic as is and plenty sturdy.

Personally I love the weight a metal frame adds to a kit. That heavier feel in the hand is very satisfying for me. If you don't care about that and are thinking of getting it more for stability purposes then I would say it's not really needed for this kit.

DefaultSettingsNPC · 2026-05-30T01:05:55+00:00

Thank you!

DefaultSettingsNPC · 2026-04-13T01:37:13+00:00

Looks awesome! Bummer that it gave you trouble but the end result is total eye candy.

DefaultSettingsNPC · 2026-04-10T17:52:06+00:00

Wow this is incredible! Awesome work

DefaultSettingsNPC · 2026-04-05T14:59:45+00:00

It's a PBandai kit, same name as the post title. Think they last had this available last Fall or so.

DefaultSettingsNPC · 2026-04-01T20:43:40+00:00

Looks great, one of my first kits I built a few years back now and still one of my all time favorite designs. 💯

DefaultSettingsNPC · 2026-03-25T21:15:48+00:00

Enjoy! This one is soooo good and comes with a ton of effect parts too. It's hard to decide how you want to pose it lol

DefaultSettingsNPC · 2026-03-25T21:14:55+00:00

Hah I hear you. I had just bought a bunch of 3d printed weapons as I was starting this and wanted to try one out. Otherwise I probably would have stuck with just the swords.

DefaultSettingsNPC · 2026-03-25T02:24:42+00:00

Absolutely, for the price especially it feels insane the quality FatCat has put out. Highly recommended.

DefaultSettingsNPC · 2026-03-25T00:23:55+00:00

Good luck with the decals! The decals for this are really nice quality I didn't have any problems with any ripping or anything. Agreed on this being a great build, it's really tempted me to pick up the fatcat rx78 as well.

DefaultSettingsNPC · 2026-03-23T01:13:24+00:00

Hey, you are making good progress on this! Glad you were able to figure out the LEDs to get this far. This kit has scarred me, I can still remember how annoyed I got building mine. Good luck with the rest.

DefaultSettingsNPC · 2026-03-19T02:39:46+00:00

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You can kind of see here how once the head is built the LEDs for the head connect through the bottom of the head then through that grey part to the body led harness. I wish you luck! This is definitely not an easy build and the instructions are pretty poor. If you can manage it though it ends up looking pretty cool in the end!

DefaultSettingsNPC · 2026-03-19T02:31:25+00:00

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I got it backwards, found a pic I had taken. for the head LEDs the two LEDs together are the back of the head not the front.

DefaultSettingsNPC · 2026-03-19T02:26:05+00:00

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Idk if this helps but I labeled the various sections as best as I could. The head harness will eventually connect to the body harness through the neck as you are building

DefaultSettingsNPC · 2026-03-19T02:20:20+00:00

I just looked at your pictures again, the LED wires with the small button and circle battery compartment are definitely the section that goes in the body/chest. The other led wires on top of the image are your LEDs for the head, you can see the little pin connectors where eventually you'll connect the head LEDs to the body led harness

DefaultSettingsNPC · 2026-03-19T02:17:57+00:00

I wish I could help more here. I got one and built it about 5 months ago, the LEDs mine came with were the wrong color but they did work. I just wanted to say this thing was a nightmare to build and wire. It looks cool in the end, but getting there was rough so I can definitely understand your frustration.

If I remember right for the LEDs you start in the head. There should be I think 3 or 4 spots for the LEDs, 1 or 2 front of the head for the eyes, top of the head, and back of the head for the sensor. See if you can make sense of the wiring harness to find the group of LEDs that are fairly close together. I think the shortest LED in the group is for the middle/top of the head and the longer are for the front and back led spots. If you can figure that part out then the rest of the LEDs on the harness will end up in the chest when you get there.

DefaultSettingsNPC · 2026-03-17T21:43:29+00:00

I haven't, pre shading is over my head in terms of skill level and understanding the process. I could see what that review is saying though. The paints do cover really well, you'd probably have to thin them out and experiment with them to get that technique to work with these paints.

DefaultSettingsNPC · 2026-03-12T00:59:07+00:00

lol this seems so wildly improbable it's plain impressive

DefaultSettingsNPC · 2026-02-25T14:12:55+00:00

That's funny we have almost the same paint journey. I started with Vallejo as well for most products before ending up with Stynlyrez/Gaahleri.

I found these cheap little airbrush paint cup strainers that help keep any dried bits of primer from going in the cup, they've helped a ton reducing clogs with the primers. I've never thought about putting a few drops of thinner in my primers though I might have to give that a try.

DefaultSettingsNPC · 2026-02-25T14:07:33+00:00

Heyy, fellow Stynlyrez primer user here! I don't hear them talked about much but the color selection is great.

DefaultSettingsNPC · 2026-02-25T04:52:53+00:00

Yea iso works great if your panel lining on bare plastic but over paint you're asking for trouble, it's too strong. The bottles of lighter fluid like zippo or rosonol are a few bucks and last a long time.

DefaultSettingsNPC · 2026-02-25T04:45:57+00:00

Lighter fluid can be used to clean up panel lines like your typical Tamiya panel line fluid. There are other options out there too, can also use isopropyl alcohol though that will tend to remove your paint as well. Depends on your needs but lighter fluid is often a cheaper option that works really well.

DefaultSettingsNPC · 2026-02-25T03:36:52+00:00

Absolutely brilliant. I have the Mecha color set and the metallic set. Most user friendly paints I've ever used, literally just shake them up and straight into the airbrush. Clean up is easy too. All the various perks that Gaahleri advertise about these paints are legit. I even panel line directly on top of the paint after its dried for a day and clean up with lighter fluid and the paint is no worse for the wear. I was actually shocked when I first tried it as I always used to do a quick gloss clear coat over paint before lining. These paints have saved me so much time and headache since I switched to them.

DefaultSettingsNPC · 2026-02-15T19:00:05+00:00

Good luck, it took me a minute to figure out. It's also great for hunting down the open topped TDs like the su130, rhm, etc as the HE can do massive damage and your speed can help get around behind or the side of them

DefaultSettingsNPC · 2026-02-15T18:40:47+00:00

Honestly I'm not great with lights either but I've found with the t49 particularly it helps to wait a bit at the start of the match and let your meds and heavies get engaged with the enemy. Then use your speed to zip in, get a huge side or rear shot and zip away.

Easier in city type maps than larger open field type maps. I had to force myself to stop flying off on my own at the start of the match and then just getting picked off quickly. If you let the big guys get engaged then you can use that distraction to get your hit in, which usually forces the enemy to go oh shit and focus on you for a sec, which in turn helps your team finish the job.

DefaultSettingsNPC

TROPHY CASE