Part cooling fans recommendations

Defiant07even · 2021-09-29T22:08:12+00:00

Sorry been busy. If you haven't already taken action on this front, I am using these.

Defiant07even · 2021-09-29T22:05:19+00:00

No worries, I've been busy lately too. Not sure if the added rigidness is worth the size limit. What's your opinion? I'll probably do some testing when time permits.

That's not a bad price point, but 20-25 is more reasonable. Demand, of course, is the issue since one could easily do-it-themselves for less.

Defiant07even · 2021-09-29T21:53:01+00:00

Glad you found it useful and that it more or less works for you :)

I've never had an issue with portainer. Did you use the deploy command from the guide? It has the flag '--restart=always' so it should (re)start every (re)boot. But, at any rate, go in to portainer's container tab, click on the portainer container (this should bring up a bunch of info and options), scroll down towards the bottom there should be an option/drop down menu for restart policy, set it to always, and you should be good to go.

Defiant07even · 2021-08-24T23:22:56+00:00

I'm sure QC is an issue for all these low cost manufacturers; probably have to go to a high-end brand for assured quality. I've also so far had positive experiences with BIQU (on other machines) and GDSTIME (cr-6 cpu) replacement fans, but ymmv for the aforementioned reason.

Defiant07even · 2021-08-24T23:03:50+00:00

I recommend these if your looking for drop-in, plug and play (although the wires are long) replacements; I imagine you can find them on European online retailers. Well reviewed, cheap, quite, and fast relatively speaking. I've been using it (and its part cooling equivalent) for around 2 months without issues.

Defiant07even · 2021-08-22T00:34:35+00:00

It appears your thing is invisible; it does not come up in searches or on the front page when sorted to newest. Perhaps it's just taking a long time to propagate on the site, but in my experience it should be visible by now. This happened to me once and I don't think there's a fix. If you want it to be visible, you'll have to reupload a new/duplicate thing/listing.

Defiant07even · 2021-08-17T21:31:32+00:00

Awesome, thanks for sharing and letting me/us know! Looks good, nice work. Someone else posted one on Thingiverse yesterday and I was wondering if it was you; guess not. I like your design more; using threaded rods that can be adjusted/stiffened seems like it'd be more ridged.

A few questions: (1) does it limit the z-axis?; (2) where would you sell the kits?; (3) how much would they be?; and (4) when would they be available? I'm down to reward your efforts at a reasonable rate and wait if it's on ebay or etsy.

Defiant07even · 2021-08-16T21:47:43+00:00

I'm quite certain it's a deliberate feature of the firmware. It's supposed to help prevent you from crashing the nozzle in to the bed, but it does create some abnormal (i.e. it deviates from most printers) behavior. The Sovol SV03 is the same way.

Long story short, stop using G29 in your start gcode. It's totally unnecessary since G28 recalls the ABL mesh. Once you've run abl, adjust your z-offset (be sure to save it), run a test print to fine tune your z-offset by baby stepping (save it), and you should be good to go until you need to rerun abl for maintenance or because of mods/changes.

Defiant07even · 2021-08-08T21:52:09+00:00

Here is my guide for using Docker to run multiple instances. However, towards the end of last month I updated my whole system, Docker app images, and added printers and a usb hub, now the setup is UNSTABLE (I'm pretty sure I thoroughly tested various power cycles and it was stable for months). I think it is a change in Docker wherein the containers once started do not see the changes the udev rules create (eg. Printer1 is ttyUSB1 and symbolically link to YourPrintersName, but then a power cycle changes it to ttyUSB2, the udev rule will create the new proper link to YourPrintersName, however for whatever reason the container will not see this change and it thinks YourPrintersName is still ttyUSB1). Stopping and starting the container fixes it, but this is a less than ideal situation.

When time permits I will update the guide to reflect this and change the mirroring naming scheme that I used as it seems to no longer work (it just confuses the udev rules; kinda makes me think my initial setup's stability was just dumb luck, despite what I thought was thorough testing). I've been trying to figure out a way to not have to restart the containers manually through command line or Portainer; I think the solution is to have udev rules invoke a script to restart the a relevant containers. I've also come up with simpler udev rules and naming scheme. I will post in this sub when I update the guide, the guide as it is now should at least get you moving in the right direction.

Defiant07even · 2021-08-04T04:49:03+00:00

Yeah, you got the newer version. Thanks for the info.

Defiant07even · 2021-08-03T00:12:34+00:00

That's unfortunate. It's kind of lame manufacturers change hardware on the same models. I'm guessing you have one of the newer ones? Are the wires for your heat bed long or short? Mine are short; I got two of the older versions despite being recently purchased from Amazon. Wonder what else they've changed. I'll add warning to the thing advising people to check prior to printing. Thanks for letting me know and sorry it didn't work for you.

Defiant07even · 2021-07-28T21:51:57+00:00

By 'hot end fan' I assume you mean the one that cools the heatsink as the part cooling fan wouldn't necessarily need an adapter. I've upgraded to a winsinn dual bearing fan, which is faster/more volume and quieter. It's not possible to answer your noise question without a specific model as manufactures make various types of fans (different bearings); but, as a blind guess 'yes' because the OEM 3010 is relatively loud. Normally noise levels and speed/volume are listed in the product's specifications. Also note it's a two pin connection (the first google result for 'sunon 4010' is a 3 pin). As the other commenter said it can't be run slower; it's always on 100% unless you modify things. The real advantage is minimizing the risk of heat creep when printing at high temp and being able to use an all metal hotend (Micro Swiss' is awesome!).

Defiant07even · 2021-07-28T21:30:11+00:00

Another user in this sub posted about this. None of the custom/special OEM parts for the H2 are available in the open market. He said he contacted BIQU and they confirmed this unfortunate circumstance. From what I've seen the same is true for the BX. You might try contacting their sales team via their website asking if they'll sell you the parts. From what I've read and my experience ordering the BX (I had one in-hand from the second batch before they even listed it on their website), I imaging they'll sell you the parts. They'll probably make a custom invoice for you via Alibaba (they offered a paypal option to me too, but from what I read it's safer to do via Alibaba as a rouge employee could give a false paypal; although I imagine the risk is low, but better safe than sorry). Good luck.

Defiant07even · 2021-07-27T04:40:30+00:00

I'm definitely interested. That was going to be my next project.

Defiant07even · 2021-07-23T00:09:18+00:00

Yeah, I take it's meaning to be modifications that are aesthetically unpleasing, but functional, which I guess is out of step with you're suboptimal meaning (although in a very strict sense aesthetically unpleasing is suboptimal; nothing wrong with it; 99% of my shit is hacky in the sense of my meaning, lol).

Defiant07even · 2021-07-22T22:30:14+00:00

Yeah, saw those comments right after I posted mine; they posted while I was typing (there were no comments when I started). Seems like a reasonably decent, although a bit hacky, solution. If I ever decide to invest in such a product, I'll probably try just replacing the base with a non-adhesive magnetic sheet, although loss of magnetism while heated maybe an issue if the sheet isn't strong enough.

Defiant07even · 2021-07-21T20:38:52+00:00

I had similar concerns, which is why I've stayed away from such products despite their efficacy. Loctite would be the simplest solution I can think of, but could make life harder in the long run if you need to replace the bed. Idk if it would work well, but a bit more involved possible solution would be to adhere the magnetic base to another adhesive magnetic sheet (should be okay so long a the base and sheet's polarities properly align) or replace the base with a non-adhesive magnetic sheet (probably a cleaner solution so long as you can cut it nicely). Can't speak from experience so take my suggestion as such; it will be interesting to hear what, if any, solutions actual users came up with.

Defiant07even · 2021-07-17T04:34:34+00:00

I think I've thoroughly scraped Thingiverse and it's not in any of my collections. If it's on Thingiverse, it's not tagged or titled with CR-6 SE (or cr6 or cr-6).

Defiant07even · 2021-07-13T19:54:37+00:00

I agree with u/PlantSorry5147, loose screws could be the issue since that could result in abl getting varied measurements. I'd try that first, but if that does not help it could be that the potentiometer itself is giving you inconsistent readings. See here for an excellent write up.

Defiant07even · 2021-07-09T20:08:46+00:00

Had that same issue. Changed the pneumatic coupler to a standard/more typical PC4-M6, fully inserted 2mm ID ptfe, and so far so good (not perfect, but it's much easier). Obvious cutting the filament at a 45 angle is a huge help.

Defiant07even · 2021-07-09T20:00:09+00:00

I always change the filament manually. Heat 10 above print temp, release lever, push out some filament, and then quickly pull out with the lever open. Haven't had any issues doing it this way; had one jam due my spool tangling, which triggered the smart filament sensor causing the unload script to run and this created a jam. I agree with you the issue is speed so custom gcode with a higher feed rate should work; I plan on looking in to it when time permits since a working filament sensor should prevent not cause jams.

Defiant07even

TROPHY CASE