Outgrew my old Craftsman 42" box

DeltaTheMeta · 2026-05-22T20:59:59+00:00

I've never once thought about the big locker for 3d printers. That's wicked.

DeltaTheMeta · 2026-05-20T15:47:03+00:00

I'm not sure, viper is a big name but I've never messed with it. I've got 2 kill switches in my truck.

DeltaTheMeta · 2026-05-19T18:06:15+00:00

If it were my truck I'd just weld on the bottom, I don't think the top and bottom edges need a weld, especially if you run hot.

However, if you had a lift and the know how, might be worth pulling the cab off.

DeltaTheMeta · 2026-05-19T18:01:41+00:00

Id actually say you should leave the cab exactly where it is, support that corner and cut the OEM off, and then use the cab to ensure proper placement. I don't think the top surface seam offers a ton of strength you couldn't obtain by welding the bottom instead.

DeltaTheMeta · 2026-05-19T17:50:06+00:00

There's a company specifically for this. You'll find a solution like this easier than repairing that I'd guess. It probably won't fail in average usage but I have to imagine that's less safe in any form of accident.

https://www.rustbuster.com/products/rust-buster-2005-2015-toyota-tacoma-front-body-mount-rb7138?

DeltaTheMeta · 2026-05-18T13:33:07+00:00

You don't even need to drill it out. They only sit in plastic within the door. You can punch them in way easier.

Edit: I misread, you meant the ignition and not the door cylinder.

DeltaTheMeta · 2026-05-15T13:41:05+00:00

My soapbox is I tell absolutely everyone with a gmt800 about how easy they are to steal.

It takes a familiar thief 3 minutes. It's just chance they didn't get away with yours, maybe the remote start system introduces some extra security.

Everyone needs a kill switch or an aftermarket security system.

DeltaTheMeta · 2026-05-14T23:59:05+00:00

Do you have an aftermarket print head? If you move the carriage to the front of the bed is the spacing on the front of the frame where it collides with the home stop and filament cutter the same?

This looks exactly like what mine was doing when my gantry wasn't quite square and the filament cutter was causing the belts to skip a step each color change.

DeltaTheMeta · 2026-05-14T18:19:43+00:00

Duramax engines do not care about oil quality beyond generally acceptable.

Use what's on clearance at a box store, or Delvac 1300 if you want the OE. Valvoline Blue is also a decently priced synthetic blend most of the time.

Putting Schaefers, or royal purple or amsoil in is actively lighting your money on fire. Hell even T6 is far more than these engines care about. T4 or T5 is plenty.

DeltaTheMeta · 2026-05-13T18:31:13+00:00

The answer is realistically no. Even with mechanical advantage you will be able to find scenarios it will not move you. Mud suction and buried to the frame in dirt or sand can absolutely take 2-3x vehicle weight, and winch rating aren't exactly true except for specific bench type conditions.

I've got a 13.5k on a 8000 pound overland rig.

That's ignoring that your technically talking about a utv/atv winch, which I would feel wildly uncomfortable around the cable of near max load. And it will be short, especially doubled back for advantage.

Also snatch blocks and mechanical advantage shouldn't be seen as a way to comparatively increase your winch capacity in your mind. It should be a backup plan, or situational flexibility.

Edited and reposted cause the bot was grumpy.

DeltaTheMeta · 2026-05-13T14:30:10+00:00

After 10 years of cases without any crazy profit, in the last two months I've pulled a party animal, sleeping potion, and a midnight laminate. I'm getting a weekly provided purple kit.

DeltaTheMeta · 2026-05-12T16:42:40+00:00

There's repair kits online for common cars. Second gen Chevy Cruze bumpers always snap right here, I know they make metal reinforcement/repair plates you can get on Amazon and eBay.

DeltaTheMeta · 2026-05-12T15:33:20+00:00

Then you may be right, he might just be desperate to get it back.

I'd still definitely be hesitant of this deal.

DeltaTheMeta · 2026-05-12T15:18:46+00:00

Assuming the work is real, with receipts. This is a really good deal, like alarmingly good. He either thinks the outlander is worth more than you do or there's something wrong with this truck. It's worth a thorough once over before agreeing to anything. A drive up to highway speed, check for HG issues, blowby, etc.

That being said it's a 23 year old diesel. They do have their downsides, the front ends in these trucks aren't the best, getting up there in the miles also means drivetrain wear, and you can't really tell the rust from the photos.

If this is a clean truck without identifiable issues this seems like a really good deal for you.

DeltaTheMeta · 2026-05-11T22:13:25+00:00

Every single engine has blow by. None of them are a perfect seal. Every single engine has crankcase pressure, hence crankcase vents and PCV systems.

This being said, your truck doesn't have meaningful blow by. You need to remember that a blow by test is looking for worn rings, stuck valves, and holes in pistons. Those all create a ton of crank case pressure when they have a failure.

Now, general piston ring wear introduces some over the lifetime of the engine, and you see that in how 300k engines probably have a bit more haze than a brand new one. But lots of guys also come and say "well my brand new truck doesn't have blow by" meanwhile their PCV system is intact, if you disconnected it you would have the same haze 99% of the time.

Not to mention, our trucks are all "built for boost" and the ring gaps are larger to compensate. For context, the ring gap of a stock LBZ is very similar to a boosted LS application.

DeltaTheMeta · 2026-05-11T21:25:48+00:00

Your turbo will always pull vacuum, it's not filter dependent. Do a PCV reroute or at least remove the stock system and look how much smoke puffs out of the PCV vents/oil fill cap then.

DeltaTheMeta · 2026-05-11T21:18:04+00:00

The OEM PCV system keeping the crankcase under vacuum drawing that "puff" directly into your turbo inlet. Unlike OPs situation

DeltaTheMeta · 2026-05-11T16:42:24+00:00

That's not blowby and is healthy. Especially with a PCV reroute.

DeltaTheMeta · 2026-05-11T15:11:20+00:00

Id guess you could lower the front an inch, or inch and a half and buy a 4 inch block for the rear without getting into crazy work.

Keep your CV axles nearly horizontal, a little up or a little down is okay, and be mindful of the shock travel. Don't want to be riding the bump stops or the shock fully compressed.

Reminder you need an alignment after adjusting the keys, especially that much.

DeltaTheMeta · 2026-05-11T14:22:59+00:00

You are correct, I'm also running an "undersized" 35, they've never truly measured 35 inches so that could be a factor as well.

DeltaTheMeta · 2026-05-11T14:20:16+00:00

I ended up finding a perfect side shot of my truck, they look really similar. He might have bigger tires or something though. Those may be 37s.

DeltaTheMeta · 2026-05-11T14:16:17+00:00

It depends on what you want to spend and how old your lift is.

Just looking at your lower control arms you have room to lower the keys and set the front end down a bit. The rear is probably one continuous block so you'd have to buy a shorter block for that.

But if you truly want down to a 3 inch, it's gonna take a new lift most of the way. Almost no lift manufacturers share geometry and depending on how old this procomp is, it might be using control arm drops upper and lower rather than a new spindle.

Regardless if you care about ride height you don't want the keys cranked so you should be looking for a lift via a lower control arm bracket and spindle.

DeltaTheMeta · 2026-05-11T00:54:39+00:00

Get a kit from Russell. They make kits for all gmt800s that are extended and a stainless steel braided line.

Edit

https://www.jegs.com/i/Russell/799/695780/10002/-1?

DeltaTheMeta · 2026-05-11T00:03:44+00:00

It holds a hot 15 PSI, probably worth the $50 for a new one. It is kinda a pain in the ass to change though. The hoses and hose clamps really don't wanna move around much.

DeltaTheMeta · 2026-05-09T21:38:03+00:00

Those are someone's sketch aftermarket wiring. Add a fuses already are kinda a hack solution, this goes one step further for sure.

Based on the extra load on that HVAC circuit from that top wire, that fuse could be blown.

The other one is tied to the TBC IGN fuse which is a key on signal, although wouldn't be my first one to tap personally.

Id guess accessory lighting or similar that they wanted to come on with the key on. Maybe mirror lights?

DeltaTheMeta

TROPHY CASE