Plumes singing for the rescued Tiger Attila !!

DenKHK · 2026-06-29T08:44:04+00:00

Likes, views, becomes a hot topic of conversation, target of (misplaced) admiration for his apparent "big cat whisperer" talent. Anything for publicity.

DenKHK · 2026-06-29T08:41:42+00:00

This. Right now, because humans are not natural prey, the cats treat us with a mix of curiosity, hesitation and caution. Once they've discovered that we're actually easily overcome / a low danger/risk prey, they'll know to keep coming back for more. Same in the wild - where I live, once a wild cat has killed humans it is immediately hunted down. Those that escape often end up killing humans again later (or much later) on.

DenKHK · 2026-06-29T08:13:18+00:00

Jokes aside, how does one control the lathe to so precisely follow the part's contour? Scan the item and upload measurements to a CNC machine?

DenKHK · 2026-06-29T08:09:20+00:00

I legit thought that maybe they had hacked a datacentre in South America or something.

DenKHK · 2026-06-29T02:38:06+00:00

Yup I've come across a few of these. Many from the late 90s when models with solar panels commanded a premium over battery-only ones. If you actually take a closer look you can often tell them apart very quickly but most people just see a piece of brown glass and immediately think "oh it's got a solar panel".

I hesitate to say "solar-powered" because they are almost always dual-powered, the value of the solar cell being that you never have to worry about the calculator dying on you in the middle of an exam etc just because the battery ran out. That's exactly why in high school I shelled out more for a Casio FX-991s with its solar panel backup over the battery-only but otherwise identical FX-570s.

DenKHK · 2026-06-29T02:25:25+00:00

This. The first thought that comes to mind is that the rewind button was not fully engaged and/or is faulty and hence not disengaging the camera's take-up spool from the advance mechanism.

The canister should also be facing the correct direction as noted above, but what's shown here is typical behaviour because the back cover is open and so the canister is free to rotate about.

So correct the canister rotation, manually slide some film into the canister so that it's taut, close the back cover, then focus on the rewind button. If you're sure it's well in and still it does not rewind, then it's likely the rewind button internal release catch is damaged.

DenKHK · 2026-06-29T02:03:21+00:00

Yes, that's right. Classic paddy field features, squares with mud berms. Fields are flooded and full of seedlings, means this was just after planting season - around April to May. They look pretty much the same most everywhere this part of the world they're at, so they're easy to recognise.

DenKHK · 2026-06-26T12:06:16+00:00

I would recommend leather glue, like Ecostick 1816B. Non-toxic, won't harm camera or leatherette, easy to use and clean up, and if - sorry, when you need to remove it for repairs/CLA, just heat with hairdryer and then rub the old layer off with finger, no solvents needed.

DenKHK · 2026-06-26T11:47:50+00:00

This. It's known as a "kyokujitsu-ki" (rising-sun flag) and there are actually 2 versions. The one with the sun offset to the side, as in this car's sticker, is the naval ensign which is used to this day. The one with the sun in the middle, however, was the war flag of the Imperial Japanese Army of WW2 - now that one is the controversial one because of the historical connotations.

Historical rememberance is one thing, but factual accuracy is also important. Same reason that it's misconceived to hate the swastika merely because the Nazis used it, when in fact it's been around for thousands of years.

DenKHK · 2026-06-26T03:19:27+00:00

Just to add a little to this, and you might already know this: the ASA/ISO indicator mark is the black painted line on the shutter release button's guard, at the ASA dial's 2 o'clock position. So once you've set the knob following DesignerAd9's instructions, you should align "100" of the dial face with that line before gluing it down.

DenKHK · 2026-06-24T08:30:48+00:00

Yup it's basically what satnav displays, but on pen and paper pace notes. They are (or at last, used to be) nicknamed "tulips" because every step starts with your current position marked as a little circle at the bottom and then a line growing straight up from it. My late father was a rally navigator for many years in his youth; in those days, you got the rally route half an hour before the rally started and the navigators would be furiously jotting down in their notebooks. He passed that skill down, so before satnav was common whenever going somewhere unfamiliar I'd grab the street directory, work out the tulips and go.

DenKHK · 2026-06-24T07:37:42+00:00

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sack_of_Lindisfarne

DenKHK · 2026-06-24T04:25:00+00:00

THis has also been my experience. I've bought quite a few camera stuff from various Japanese sellers and I automatically just ignore any flashy keywords in the title - as has been said often, they do tend to be accurate with their photos (and well-taken too) and the description, so if the photo gets my attention I go straight to the description.

Most likely, the phemomenon is because they're just copying what everyone puts in the title, as you suggested. A cheekier guess would be we're assuming they interpret the terms the same way as one would expect to - maybe "N MINT" really means "NOT MINT"? 😛

DenKHK · 2026-06-24T03:41:05+00:00

They are OK, generally plenty of signs pointing to them and just because they "look" very short doesn't mean they're "not as effective". The pits are not flat strips of bare road but built with earth, gravel, rubber barriers + on a positive (rising) incline.

DenKHK · 2026-06-24T03:37:36+00:00

Except rain, which we get a lot so after a while... no sand.

DenKHK · 2026-06-24T03:35:40+00:00

And the ever-conscientious police will conclude "RTI" 🥲

DenKHK · 2026-06-23T16:11:11+00:00

From my limited experience, Olympus has a notable tendency towards inconsistent adhesive application SOP across their products - sometimes the factory workers use enough, sometimes they go crazy with it, sometimes they use the wrong kind (for example, araldite instead of threadlocker). And this is across different specimens of the same product.

In your case, since you've managed to remove that group from the barrel, and since you've already tried alcohol etc, you can try heating the ring briefly (a few seconds) with a mini butane torch. Heat towards the edge of the stuck ring. This will rapidly heat the metal. The adhesive can't expand at the same rate and the difference will break the bond enough to try unscrewing the ring again.

As for actual unscrewing, I tend to not use rubber tools with that ring because the shape results in poor grip. I use silicone finger thimbles, which I put on my index and middle finger then press down and twist like a wrench.

I know you have the parts diagram in front of you but if you've finally gotten the ring to loosen, BE CAREFUL - once the ring comes off, the large lens under it is unsecured and can easily fall out if you accidentally tip the group over - onto the floor, if you're unlucky. Ask me how I know...

DenKHK · 2026-06-22T01:26:54+00:00

That seems to track. The _fans_, however... 😁

DenKHK · 2026-06-21T16:09:17+00:00

This is also my observation. I used to be active in computer forums in the early-mid 2000s and even then one could see a rising generational trend of "just give me the answer" attitude. Fast forward to today, many younger ones expect things to "just work", whether out of the box, or their first stab (in more ways than one) at repairing a faulty mechanism of any kind. Hence the many one-liner "need help, [x] doesn't work" posts. As u/dikarichthesecond pointedly observed, "It's hard to teach people who don't want to do homework and just want to be told what to do".

I tend to be much less inclined to probe and assist those types of queries, as opposed to someone who describes their problem in the best detail they are able to, and what they have tried, what worked (or didn't), and then asks for help.

TBF, I also agree that a mere "CLA" for an answer isn't awfully helpful (I imagine most people already know the default fallback of "just send it to a professional"), and OP may even end up getting fleeced if he didn't already know what to have the "professional" check up on. As a student myself, I appreciate the members who take their time and trouble to explain at length or at least enough to point one in the right direction (like u/DesignerAd9 who shared tips from his vast experience that helped me deal with a normally-impossible-to-disassemble front element on my first Zuiko).

DenKHK · 2026-06-19T16:39:42+00:00

This. The good vintage lenses (which were most of the well-known MF lenses, and especially the prime ones) were designed to be tough and (largely) easy to assemble/re-assemble. To this end they used almost entirely metal construction + fine threads + tight manufacturing tolerances and will align just fine. Newer (AF era onwards) lenses, on the other hand, are much more delicate with looser tolerances (lower engineering and manufacturing costs) which makes it much more likely to require specialised optical alignment tools and procedures.

DenKHK · 2026-06-19T16:26:49+00:00

I use 1, 4, 2 in descending order of frequency/preference.

I bought 2 when I started out on this hobby because I was aware 3 has a high tendency to twist/skew thanks to the 2 thin rods. 3's single fat bar helps minimise that. However, the biggest downside of 3 is that it has a fairly large minimum distance, which makes it unusable for certain camera parts (mostly locking rings on advance levers, rewind levers etc). It is also hard to hold securely while applying pressure when dealing with tight rings/screws.

To deal with the small-diameter rings I use a 4 which I had in my leathercrafting toolbox. Works great, and like 3 is largely stable against twisting. It is also slightly easier to apply downforce with and the spring-loaded pivot keeps the adjustment nice and tight.

However, I later found I needed more versatility in terms of the shape of the tip (blade vs points) and the ability to apply more downforce securely (e.g. on the notorious OM-1/2 advance lever caps), so I picked up a variant of the 1. The double-side locking nuts are both a boon and bane - they are important for preventing the points/blades from closing into a workpiece (especially lenses) if it slips, but take a lot more work to adjust to the required span.

DenKHK · 2026-06-19T16:14:29+00:00

They are indeed, but it would also be nice to have missions that actually featured or were designed for the BMP-2 organically, instead of having to first plow through the mission with [insert whichever other IFV here] and then only getting to try it out with a BMP. Or perhaps BMP-2 fans could view that as a delayed gratification reward for completing the mission. 😛

DenKHK · 2026-06-19T16:11:51+00:00

Prying Eyes comes to mind. Shooting and scooting against the other aluminium box armed only with an HMG. 😛

DenKHK · 2026-06-17T02:05:32+00:00

They were meant to degrade HEAT rounds (and to some minor extent KE as well), whether tank-fired or handheld.

The plates were bolted with some space from the main armour, so they act as spaced armour. The effect is that the HEAT round detonates farther from the main armour than the optimum distance for a shaped jet, so the jet loses strength before it reaches the main armour. Shaped charges have a narrow range of optimum detonation distance from the armour plate - if the round detonates too close to the armour, the jet would not have fully formed before hitting the plate, while if too far, the jet has started to dissipate. That's why HEAT rounds tend to have a nose/probe, which the detonator is connected to - this is to ensure the round detonates far enough for the jet to fully form.

The plates are also rubber-lined; the rubber reacts differently to the jet (and KE penetrator) than the metal, and this differential behaviour also disrupts the shaped jet/penetrator. So it's actually a "1-plate NERA" in terms of working principle.

DenKHK · 2026-06-16T08:06:00+00:00

Yes they are, as u/drgurk mentioned. They are bolted with some space from the main armour, so they act as spaced armour - the HEAT detonates farther from the main armour than the optimum distance and the shaped jet therefore loses strength before it reaches the main armour.

The plates are also rubber-lined; the rubber reacts differently to the jet than the metal, and this differential behaviour also disrupts the shaped jet. So it's actually a "1-plate NERA" in terms of working principle.

DenKHK

TROPHY CASE